Kenevo Gen1 Official 2020 Kenevo Owners Thread

[samfiesta]

Hi Guys

I'm a new 2020 Kenevo Comp owner after taking the plunge into the Ebike world from Enduro motorbikes during the lock down keep active!

I have been on a few ride with friends who all have different bikes however my ride last night around the back of the Orange Mtb Factory in Halifax had me worried.
My only complaint prior about the Kenevo so far is that it can be quite uncomfortable on the trails giving me some back ache however i think some bar and saddle adjustments would solve this. My main issue however after confirming things last night is the motor, I rode my friends Merida 160 , Scott Genius e ride and Cube 160 which all have a 75nm motor, we couldn't believe how much easier and faster their bikes were on the uphills. They felt miles more positive on the pedals where as mine just burnt everyones legs out even on Turbo mode. The Brose motor should have 90Nm of torque however it just felt like i was peddling through thick mud all the way up the hill which everyone agreed with. The noise is also noticeably louder which doesn't sound like a slipping worn belt just a electrical whirr much the same as the YouTube videos i have watched when i was researching prior to purchasing.
My question is have you guys experienced a lack of uphill power and dragging sensation though the pedals at all. I was wondering if the wheel circumference might be incorrect on mission control (I have yet to check this).

Any help would be appreciated as it is really putting me off the bike at the moment.

Thanks

Sam

 

[CjP]

Hey mate, did you have it turned on?
It definitely has more power than the Merida as my brother had one and upgraded to a 2020 Kenevo.
Check your mode settings in mission control, otherwise something’s wrong with it.

 

[wepn]

The Brose motor should have 90Nm of torque however it just felt like i was peddling through thick mud all the way up the hill which everyone agreed with. The noise is also noticeably louder

I think Christian is not wrong, something is not right. I have a silent and powerful 2019 X type. I know the 2020 Mag is slightly louder than the 2019 Alu Brose but it is marginal.

 

[samfiesta]

Hey mate, did you have it turned on?
It definitely has more power than the Merida as my brother had one and upgraded to a 2020 Kenevo.
Check your mode settings in mission control, otherwise something’s wrong with it.

Yes i had it in Turbo mode and it was 100% on pedal assist and peak power!

Im going to try and book it in at Leisure Lakes Bury who i got it from but i wont hold my breath!

 

[CjP]

Yeah good idea. Something doesn’t sound right.

 

[samfiesta]

I'm running complete stock wheels and tyres 27.5"x 2.6 with mission control showing a wheel circumference of 87.40in can anyone confirm that this correct ?

Thanks

 

[cozzy]

Yes i had it in Turbo mode and it was 100% on pedal assist and peak power!

Im going to try and book it in at Leisure Lakes Bury who i got it from but i wont hold my breath!

They may be a decent shop.... But I would be loading it in the car and taking it to Berkshire cycles, don Skeene or raceco to look at depending on who is closest to you.

 

[Zero]

They may be a decent shop.... But I would be loading it in the car and taking it to Berkshire cycles, don Skeene or raceco to look at depending on who is closest to you.

I was told they dont get paid for warranty repairs. If he got it else where he should expect the shop he get it from to repair it first I'd say

 

[samfiesta]

I was told they dont get paid for warranty repairs. If he got it else where he should expect the shop he get it from to repair it first I'd say

Thats what im worried about, unfortunately it is like getting blood out of a stone to even get a phone call with them at the min i'm worried if i book it in it will just end up being 6 week wait and a "there's nothing wrong with it". Will try and make contact tomorrow maybe i am jumping the gun a bit.

 

[Vanquish78]

Hi guys! I have a question related to RS Boxxer steerer tube length.
I had my 2020 Kenevo Expert delivered with steerer tube not cut at all (it was protruding above upper surface of upper crown about 5-6 cm). Guys at bike shop I bout my bike at, told me that they did not cut it, so I can figure out most convenient handlebar height and have it cut later on. Yesterday I took the bike to my LBS to have the steerer tube trimmed. I told them just to trim the excess steerer that protrudes above the upper crown and leave it long enough for one spacer (1 cm or 0,5 cm) above the upper crown. When I took the bike back from the shop I noticed that they indeed cut the steerer and left one spacer above but they also lowered the upper crown by removing one (0,5 cm) spacer from below the upper crown, which I didn't ask for. When back at home, I disassembled the upper crown and put back the spacer they removed from underneath the upper crown, to bring back the desired handlebar haight. After I assembled everything I noticed that the steerer tube ends almost flush with the upper surface of upper crown (it protrudes maybe 1/4 mm above it). I installed it with one 0,5 cm spacer above the upper crown and it seems fine but having the steerer tube so short, almost flush with the upper crown concerns me a lot.
My question is following: do you think that it is correct (and safe) to have the steerer cut so short that the upper crown sits at the very end of it? On most pictures of 2020 Kenevo Expert I checked, there seems to be 1 cm spacer above the upper crown, so I assume that the steerer on those bikes must be cut at least 0,5 cm above the upper crown. Should I be worried and try to complain to LBS that cut my steerer tube and ask for CSU replacement or leave it as is? What do you think? I know that I can easily solve this issue by removing one spacer from below the upper crown but I don't want to do it because 1. handlebar height is perfect for me as is; 2. When I transport my bike on a hitch rack, I use a frame adapter (bar that hooks to a steerer tube and seat post) to clamp the bike to the rack (I do not like to clamp directly to the frame as it tends to damage the invisiframe and/or paint). When I remove the spacer, the adapter won't fit under the upper crown; 3. I did not ask the bike shop to do anything with handlebar height, yet they did... See the pictures for reference.
I'd be glad to know your opinion on my issue. TIA, Piotr.

 

[ebikerider]

Call the shop and get their side of the story why they didn't do what you asked. Then tell them to fix it.

 

[Zero]

It looks ok to me.

Sometimes people want some tube above but I've never felt the need to raise the bar this way.

 

[cozzy]

Its fine. I have DH bikes where the steerer is a few mm below the crown.
Annoying when they don't do what you asked though.
I would check also they haven't removed the stantions and bolted them back in at the wrong height.

 

[Vanquish78]

I would check also they haven't removed the stantions and bolted them back in at the wrong height.

Actually they did remove them and bolted them back at the wrong height. While mounting stanchions back, they took upper crown as a reference point and aligned them so the stanchion tubes are as deep in the upper crown as possible and barely protrude from the top of upper crown. This made the front of the bike sit about 20 mm higher than it should. When asked is it a correct way to adjust such fork, they replied that it is correct (which is obviously not true) and that they always assemble Boxxers that way... When back home, I readjusted stanchions to proper height myself... FYI, this bike shop is an official Spesh concept store!

 

[cozzy]

Actually they did remove them and bolted them back at the wrong height. While mounting stanchions back, they took upper crown as a reference point and aligned them so the stanchion tubes are as deep in the upper crown as possible and barely protrude from the top of upper crown. This made the front of the bike sit about 20 mm higher than it should. When asked is it a correct way to adjust such fork, they replied that it is correct (which is obviously not true) and that they always assemble Boxxers that way... When back home, I readjusted stanchions to proper height myself... FYI, this bike shop is an official Spesh concept store!

What do you have as the proper height? The 2020 c1 boxxers should be 163mm I believe top of bottom crown to top of stantion from srams doc. It seems though they are set to 157mm on the kenevo, same measurement as the earlier model fork.
Some shops (most?!) really are poor.

 

[Vanquish78]

What do you have as the proper height? The 2020 c1 boxxers should be 163mm I believe top of bottom crown to top of stantion from srams doc.

Proper height is what is mentioned in sram user manual, and as you mentioned, 163 mm from the top of bottom crown to the top of stanchions. If you change this distance, you are changing geo of the bike. In my case they mounted the bottom crown too high, but if the bike tech doesn’t know what he’s doing, one may expect that he could mount the lower crown too low as well, which is seriously dangerous, because in such case, when the fork is fully compressed, the front tire may contact the lower crown, which will immediayely send you otb. I do not like to complain to anyone but on the other hand, if I leave the 7,5k $ worth bike in authorised bike shop, I expect the service relevant to the price of the bike and status of the brand or at least that the service guy will know what he’s doing and will do exactly what the customer wishes, no more, no less...

 

[Zero]

Mine just arrived and looks like yours does

 

[cozzy]

Proper height is what is mentioned in sram user manual, and as you mentioned, 163 mm from the top of bottom crown to the top of stanchions. If you change this distance, you are changing geo of the bike. In my case they mounted the bottom crown too high, but if the bike tech doesn’t know what he’s doing, one may expect that he could mount the lower crown too low as well, which is seriously dangerous, because in such case, when the fork is fully compressed, the front tire may contact the lower crown, which will immediayely send you otb. I do not like to complain to anyone but on the other hand, if I leave the 7,5k $ worth bike in authorised bike shop, I expect the service relevant to the price of the bike and status of the brand or at least that the service guy will know what he’s doing and will do exactly what the customer wishes, no more, no less...

Indeed. Its worth you checking that measurement of 163mm. I bought a brand new set of take off boxxers from an expert and they were 157mm, another member confirmed theirs was also 157mm. This gives approx 565mm a2c.
I suspect specialised set them to this rather than 163mm to more align with the axle to crown measurement of the comp which is 570mm on the 180mm marzochis, but that just a wild guess.

 

[esku]

Hi Guys View attachment 33250

I'm a new 2020 Kenevo Comp owner after taking the plunge into the Ebike world from Enduro motorbikes during the lock down keep active!

I have been on a few ride with friends who all have different bikes however my ride last night around the back of the Orange Mtb Factory in Halifax had me worried.
My only complaint prior about the Kenevo so far is that it can be quite uncomfortable on the trails giving me some back ache however i think some bar and saddle adjustments would solve this. My main issue however after confirming things last night is the motor, I rode my friends Merida 160 , Scott Genius e ride and Cube 160 which all have a 75nm motor, we couldn't believe how much easier and faster their bikes were on the uphills. They felt miles more positive on the pedals where as mine just burnt everyones legs out even on Turbo mode. The Brose motor should have 90Nm of torque however it just felt like i was peddling through thick mud all the way up the hill which everyone agreed with. The noise is also noticeably louder which doesn't sound like a slipping worn belt just a electrical whirr much the same as the YouTube videos i have watched when i was researching prior to purchasing.
My question is have you guys experienced a lack of uphill power and dragging sensation though the pedals at all. I was wondering if the wheel circumference might be incorrect on mission control (I have yet to check this).

Any help would be appreciated as it is really putting me off the bike at the moment.

Thanks

Sam

Something is wrong with that Kenenevo
I have a Levo 2020 and a Kenevo 2020 and I do feel that the K' is stronger then the L'
maybe because of the wheel size

 

[Zero]

I took my brand new Kenevo out today and what a blast i had. Couple of niggles with the bike didnt slow my fun down. First day and used the whole 180mm travel jumping off a rock garden drop on to the flat. Soaked it up like a champ. LOVE this double crown fork and LOVE this coil. First coil i have used and what a difference it makes. Debating if i should upgrade to the 2.1 damper.

Probably going to replace this ugly stem with a hope or renthal. Have a set of Roval Carbon wheels and Carbon bars and might put those on the bike too. Maybe offset a bit of weight. These might be ebikes but after today i feel like i have been on a real workout. I liken it to being on free weights rather than on a treadmill.

Best part is that i discovered a whole series of off piste runs and im determined to find some more next time im out.

 

[robwormald]

Time for some upgrades

SRAM AXS XX1 12 speed derailleur / cassette / chain (I like goooooollld)
RockShox Reverb AXS Dropper post
34T praxis chainring

 

[Zero]

Time for some upgrades

SRAM AXS XX1 12 speed derailleur / cassette / chain (I like goooooollld)
RockShox Reverb AXS Dropper post
34T praxis chainring












View attachment 33573 View attachment 33574 View attachment 33575 View attachment 33579

I was just looking after this last night. Totalled up the cost and then decided that its half a new bike lol...

I wonder if you will be able to put the mech and shifter on any group set soon? I dont need 12 gears and i dont need xx1.

Looks epic though

 

[robwormald]

I was just looking after this last night. Totalled up the cost and then decided that its half a new bike lol...

I wonder if you will be able to put the mech and shifter on any group set soon? I dont need 12 gears and i dont need xx1.

Looks epic though

As far as I’m aware anything Eagle is interchangeable (across 12 speed anyway) so you don’t need the XX1 to use the wireless. SRAM has a handy chart https://www.servicearchive.sram.com...8_compatibility_map_2020_e-mtb_components.pdf

I live halfway up a mountain so having that climbing gear is a nice addition, but it was a great feeling getting to rip some cables out of the bike. Cleans things up a lot.

 

[FredD]

Time for some upgrades

SRAM AXS XX1 12 speed derailleur / cassette / chain (I like goooooollld)
RockShox Reverb AXS Dropper post
34T praxis chainring












View attachment 33573 View attachment 33574 View attachment 33575 View attachment 33579

Looks fantastic. Jealous.

I took my new Kenevo Expert out yesterday at Rogate. First e-bike, first long travel bike, and I'm new to MTB. (First bike was a Jeffsy, which i had for 6 months). Couple of thoughts/observations/issues:
- soaked up the drops brilliantly, felt the weight a bit when in the air, and it was a joy to have the asisst uphill.
- i'm getting some slippage/nasty clunks when on the really steep stuff, even when i'm in the right gear before i start up - is that normal?
- i snapped my chain in a very steep section - is there a limit to the strain i should be applying?
- i have a cut on my left thumb knuckle from the seat post lever - anyone else experience that or is it just my incompetence?

Watched my 16 year old do the DMR section of the S&M line for the first time but didn't have the balls to follow him....

 

[Zero]

Looks fantastic. Jealous.

I took my new Kenevo Expert out yesterday at Rogate. First e-bike, first long travel bike, and I'm new to MTB. (First bike was a Jeffsy, which i had for 6 months). Couple of thoughts/observations/issues:
- soaked up the drops brilliantly, felt the weight a bit when in the air, and it was a joy to have the asisst uphill.
- i'm getting some slippage/nasty clunks when on the really steep stuff, even when i'm in the right gear before i start up - is that normal?
- i snapped my chain in a very steep section - is there a limit to the strain i should be applying?
- i have a cut on my left thumb knuckle from the seat post lever - anyone else experience that or is it just my incompetence?

Watched my 16 year old do the DMR section of the S&M line for the first time but didn't have the balls to follow him....

the weight will go away as you put some meat on them arms I dont even notice it now.

Get that drive train in the shop ASAP. It should not be skipping. If its new the shop did a bad job setting it up. If its not new then maybe its worn a bit more than it should. Either way it will only get worse so dont ride it until shop looks at it or you might find the problem never goes away.

 

[Zero]

As far as I’m aware anything Eagle is interchangeable (across 12 speed anyway) so you don’t need the XX1 to use the wireless. SRAM has a handy chart https://www.servicearchive.sram.com...8_compatibility_map_2020_e-mtb_components.pdf

I live halfway up a mountain so having that climbing gear is a nice addition, but it was a great feeling getting to rip some cables out of the bike. Cleans things up a lot.

I was hoping they would make it so you can just fit it on the GX 11 speed given its digital it shouldnt be hard but knowing these companies rip off tactics they will probably force me to go eagle. I might wait for the cheaper versions to land.

Are you considering the 2.1 charger damper? Its an upgrade that actually might improve the performance of the bike

 

[CjP]

- i have a cut on my left thumb knuckle from the seat post lever - anyone else experience that or is it just my incompetence?

Swap over the small brackets that hold the gear lever and dropper post remote.

 

[Zimmerframe]

- i'm getting some slippage/nasty clunks when on the really steep stuff, even when i'm in the right gear before i start up - is that normal?
- i snapped my chain in a very steep section - is there a limit to the strain i should be applying?

It might need re-indexing, or even just a minor adjustment from the adjuster on the selector, depending which way it's jumping. You can get some initial cable stretch. Also, check things like the sheath is correctly seated in the cup at the derailleur. It's quite easy to pop this out when moving the bike or in a fall then the whole thing is messed up.

It shouldn't change on a hard climb though, or at any point. Getting used to changing on climbs with the motor takes a bit of getting used to so you don't wreck everything in a few 100k's.

Watched my 16 year old do the DMR section of the S&M line for the first time but didn't have the balls to follow him....

It's just not fair !

i have a cut on my left thumb knuckle from the seat post lever - anyone else experience that or is it just my incompetence?

Not heard of this before. Does it have a sharp edge left over which it shouldn't ? Might need brake/lever moving inboard a bit if you're catching with your thumb ?

 

[FredD]

Not heard of this before. Does it have a sharp edge left over which it shouldn't ? Might need brake/lever moving inboard a bit if you're catching with your thumb ?
[/QUOTE]

It might need re-indexing, or even just a minor adjustment from the adjuster on the selector, depending which way it's jumping. You can get some initial cable stretch. Also, check things like the sheath is correctly seated in the cup at the derailleur. It's quite easy to pop this out when moving the bike or in a fall then the whole thing is messed up.

It shouldn't change on a hard climb though, or at any point. Getting used to changing on climbs with the motor takes a bit of getting used to so you don't wreck everything in a few 100k's.


It's just not fair !


Not heard of this before. Does it have a sharp edge left over which it shouldn't ? Might need brake/lever moving inboard a bit if you're catching with your thumb ?

The slipping/skipping feels like it's the drive not the cassette but i will need to do a proper investigation.

The thumb issue is not due to sharpness per se, it's that my position on the grip means a slight jolt (e.g. landing a drop) pushes my thumb/knuckle into the lever. I could try to ride with my hands wider but that's not instinctive, so it may be i need to push the brake/dropper levers a little narrower.....

And here's the boy doing the DMR line - apart from 4 days in the Alps two years ago, he basically started riding in Jan this year. Little bu**er

 

[Zimmerframe]

The thumb issue is not due to sharpness per se, it's that my position on the grip means a slight jolt (e.g. landing a drop) pushes my thumb/knuckle into the lever. I could try to ride with my hands wider but that's not instinctive, so it may be i need to push the brake/dropper levers a little narrower.....

As @Christian says, you could try swapping the mounts around to move it in further ?

The slipping/skipping feels like it's the drive not the cassette but i will need to do a proper investigation.

The motor should definitely not slip !! at all .. There's a tiny possibility the belt tension was set incorrectly, so then it could slip, but it would probably chew the belt up and then it would be slipping all the time. Lets hope it's just an alignment issue on the drive end.

Great picture !!!! He's a bit of a natural then !!!