I would read the reviews on chain reaction not good. e22 uses 8mm mounting bolts with eyelets not a trunion. See my post a d several others on the specs for the shock.cool, thanks - so this will work?
RockShox Super Deluxe Plus Rear Shock 2020 | Chain Reaction
RockShox Super Deluxe Plus Rear Shock 2020 - Lowest Prices and FREE shipping available from The World's largest online bike store - Chain Reaction Cycleswww.chainreactioncycles.com
Dimensions are correct. But if you read the comments, they say it has a lower bearing mount. Which will not work.cool, thanks - so this will work?
RockShox Super Deluxe Plus Rear Shock 2020 | Chain Reaction
RockShox Super Deluxe Plus Rear Shock 2020 - Lowest Prices and FREE shipping available from The World's largest online bike store - Chain Reaction Cycleswww.chainreactioncycles.com
This is what I measure on my E10 with 180/29“/2.6 front and 216/63 shock 27.5“/2.6 rearFor anyone curious. This is the head tube angle on a large e22, when you fit a 170mm 29" fork, and run mullet config, and tweak the shock stroke, for slightly more travel.
Exactly 65°. Which is 1° slacker than the standard 66°, just by increasing the front axle to crown length, and mulleting it.
It would probably be even slacker, maybe 64.5° or so if I didn't increase the shock stroke via the offset bushings. And have equal width mullet tyres. (Currently has 29x2.4 front, and 27.5x2.6 rear.)
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I am using shimano Zee, quite monsters . no brake sensors, dont think they bring any added value to meWhat hydraulic brake is everyone using? Is there any 4 piston with 3 pins out there? Ive only seen 2 pins like the magura emt5 or the tektro hd-e725. Or the brake sensor with magnet is still the best way to go?
may i ask for the link to tat bagNow that better weather and long days are here, I even took off my mud guards, the old standard 20ish mile laps are being rested and with the help of a piggy back battery new farther reaching terrain is on the menu. I haven't worn out the two yet but have done several just under 40 mile which knowing that I average just about 30wh/mi use at my preferred good clip and plenty of ele I can stretch it to 50 miles max but more likely 45+ comfortably. I mostly use 2/3 for my rides with a bit of 4 on really steep trail type terrain which we have some of here in the hood.
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Makes a heavy bike heavier for sure but still don't really feel the weight once it is rolling. Low speed handling is still really good and medium to high speed is very planted and secure. The techish single track I have ridden is totally doable also. So I am proclaiming the extra $$ to get it set up, which was around $400 total was well worth it!
BTW my frame is a med but on large frames it will fit on the downtube, here is a pic of my friends E22 bike but with an Ortleib bag
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Mine is a Stasher from Amazon. They were made to haul beer cans and came with liner material most of which was taken out to better fit the stock style battery casing.
I am happy I ended up with the two battery system because it will probably end up using my 52v most of the time for my <25 mile adventures that occur most days. But have some routes lined up to do with my Z1 buddy above that will be lots of fun!
cheers, you are correct. Ordered something elseDimensions are correct. But if you read the comments, they say it has a lower bearing mount. Which will not work.
The pictures show 2 variants. 1 with standard eyelets. The other with the bearing mount. But it sounds like you get the bearing mount unit, if you order that.
I am using shimano Zee, quite monsters . no brake sensors, dont think they bring any added value to me
Hi i am sorry but i don't get it. what do you mean by "by pass it on the display "?Chris,
We don't need brake sensors for the m620 or is there a way to by pass it on the display?
Hi i am sorry but i don't get it. what do you mean by "by pass it on the display "?
In general we dont need brake sensors. personally they dont bring any value to me
thats right ,kit comes with plugs for brake sensors.however until you will not plugin sensors (with magnet) system do not recognize it. Works fine without oneI'm still waiting for my e22 kit and have no idea what brakes I need but you are saying you don't need brake sensors. How it that possible since the kit comes with 3 pin plug and how does the motor start with out brake sensors? Is there a way to disable the brake sensor/ bypass it on the display?
Is 3 cans variant enough for our standard battery?This is the one that I use and it is very well constructed and substantially cheaper....https://getstashers.com/products/stashers-3-0-modular-insulated-adventure-bag?variant=13131792056419
Is 3 cans variant enough for our standard battery?
Does anybody know whether the the 48/52v versions are the same component wise, just with different low voltage cut off parameters set? I'm starting to obsess about the 48v sticker on the bottom of my motor....I'm yearning for 52v.
My kit didn't have plugs for brake sensors in the harness that goes between motor and cockpit.thats right ,kit comes with plugs for brake sensors.however until you will not plugin sensors (with magnet) system do not recognize it. Works fine without one
Mine is UART too - I paid an extra bunch of cash for that convenience, I'm coming from a BBSHD which I've tweaked to hell, I couldn't go 'backwards' to CAN.Should be the same. If you have a DC18 display in the functions there is a 48v or 52v feature. At least there is on mine but I also have a UART motor and in the program for that you can specify either. I have a 48v and 52v and they both work fine. I do recommend 52v though because it does wake up the motor better as I think I have said on here before.
I have been putting my 48v, also 15ah 2170 cell 40A BMS, through cycles here lately to see if it will show the same range gains my 52v did and I would have to say yes. Still believe that the standard Dengfu 840wh 17.5ah battery is not as good and I gave that over 500 miles of use and it never improved.
Thanks, is your 52v a 14s battery, 70 cells? If so are these in the 'official' battery housing? I've ordered an empty case along with the frame, the specs say its a 65cell case, but wondering if I can squeeze a few more cells in there...Should be the same. If you have a DC18 display in the functions there is a 48v or 52v feature. At least there is on mine but I also have a UART motor and in the program for that you can specify either. I have a 48v and 52v and they both work fine. I do recommend 52v though because it does wake up the motor better as I think I have said on here before.
I have been putting my 48v, also 15ah 2170 cell 40A BMS, through cycles here lately to see if it will show the same range gains my 52v did and I would have to say yes. Still believe that the standard Dengfu 840wh 17.5ah battery is not as good and I gave that over 500 miles of use and it never improved.
Thanks, is your 52v a 14s battery, 70 cells? If so are these in the 'official' battery housing? I've ordered an empty case along with the frame, the specs say its a 65cell case, but wondering if I can squeeze a few more cells in there...
This setup looks superb. What is the weight?A few more bits and pieces on the bike.
Rear shock is in. In the end i used the offset bush's which allows me to run the 230/65 shock without any problems.
With standard concentric bushings, there is just about 10mm clearance between the shock yoke, and the forward edge of the seat tube. (As seen with the blue allen key as a feeler guage)
Each offset bushs adjusts by about 2mm. Adding the 2 offset bushings increases the effective length of the shock by about 4mm to a total of 234mm.
With the offset bushings installed, the gap between the shock yoke and the seat stay closes down to about 5-6mm. Which is ample clearance.
The 230/65 shock, with offset bushs, bottom outs out at almost the exact same posistion as a standard 230/60 shock with standard bushings. Well technically, 1mm deeper into its stroke. Which is no problem, and does not cause the seat stays to foul the seat tube at full bottom out.
The only problem I can see with this setup is the potential for the offset bushings to rotate over time, which would them throw everything out of whack and potentially cause fouling on bottom out.
I got the steerer tube cut down, and fitted up the stem, bars, grips, brakes and controls. Mounted up the front brake to the fork. And put the throttle on the right side above the shifters. My thinking was that way I can't simultaneously shift and give it gas at the same time. It was tight and I wasn't super happy with the alignment of everything.
I stupidly tried to adjust the GX eagle shifter blade position, and didn't realise its not actually adjustable, and when I undid the central screw, the entire shifter mechanism fell apart, with springs and what's its going flying in every direction. It took me a good few hours to reassemble the shifter mechanism. What a night mare. I am used to the X01 on my other bike which has an adjustable trigger posistion.
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That looks pretty cool. Better than the 500C? I don't know. The minimal UI is nicer and it's certainly a shed-load cheaper...Figured I'd spread the word regarding the Bafang DZ41 display.
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Hopefully, this answers questions about the dimensions.
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Early reports suggests that these displays (depending on the connector), compatible with all bafang motors (old and new).
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I'll keep you posted further concerning the functionality of the display
I haven't weighed it. But I think its probs around 25kg.This setup looks superb. What is the weight?
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