Killswitch73
Well-known member
Im 160 front and 210x55 rear shock .. the thing is a whippet .
Decathlon STILUS Full Suspension Electric Mountain Bike - SRAM SX
- Thread starter johnm
- Start date
Has anyone fit a longer dropper yet? The 120mm is no where enough for me - so 170mm is what I’d like, but not sure if it’ll fit into the seat post far enough (haven’t measured it yet, just being lazy)
Jamm13dodger
Member
Being a short arse i havent needed to. It’s actually my first dropper and I keep forgetting I have it
Rap Dance 9000
Active member
I’ve changed my mind on non ebike specific skinwall tyres. Can anyone comment on the best all rounder 27.5 2.6 Set up for all sorts of terrain, front and rear For the Stilus. I’m in a very hilly area with lots of trails, rocky tracks, muddy woodland trails, not bothered about skinwall either . Want to go for long rides and feel super stable as have a right foot disability and am a wee bit overweight :/ hoping to lose it in echo mode on the flat though! . Thanks ?
Jamm13dodger
Member
Someone posted a while ago about the gap in the catch for the battery cover. I had the same issue so have done this fix. I got some old scrap 3mm thick plastic and popped it in the gap. I then scribed round the profile and cut this out;
I then smoothed it out and superglued it into place on the frame.
Once that was done I dismantled the catch and cleaned and greased it to be sure it would move smoothly. I then reassembled everything and fitted the cover back. No more gap. Took about 20 minutes in all. My only concern is will the superglue hold but I can always try something different if it doesn't.
I then smoothed it out and superglued it into place on the frame.
Once that was done I dismantled the catch and cleaned and greased it to be sure it would move smoothly. I then reassembled everything and fitted the cover back. No more gap. Took about 20 minutes in all. My only concern is will the superglue hold but I can always try something different if it doesn't.
Pigin
Well-known member
Post Bosch motor software ride
I guess the headline is that yes you can tell the difference.
Forgive me if there is some information here for your grandma and her eggs but here goes. Torque is the force required to rotate an object, think torque wrench. One of the things the upgrade does is increase the maximum torque to 85nm from 75nm. It doesn’t sound a lot but I think it’s very noticeable and for me and my style of riding that was most noticeable whilst in tour mode. Just like a car you notice the effect of torque at lower speeds / cadence. It pulls like Tom Cruise at a hen do!
In all modes the delivery seems less digital instead power comes in and out more smoothly and now I actually like EMTB mode as it has a smoother delivery and feels less twitchy.
I had discovered the boost mode yet so can’t comment on that.
I think the upgrade is real good noticeable improvement and with no real noticeable drain on the battery, I’m sure there is, physics says there must be, but I wouldn’t go back.
I guess the headline is that yes you can tell the difference.
Forgive me if there is some information here for your grandma and her eggs but here goes. Torque is the force required to rotate an object, think torque wrench. One of the things the upgrade does is increase the maximum torque to 85nm from 75nm. It doesn’t sound a lot but I think it’s very noticeable and for me and my style of riding that was most noticeable whilst in tour mode. Just like a car you notice the effect of torque at lower speeds / cadence. It pulls like Tom Cruise at a hen do!
In all modes the delivery seems less digital instead power comes in and out more smoothly and now I actually like EMTB mode as it has a smoother delivery and feels less twitchy.
I had discovered the boost mode yet so can’t comment on that.
I think the upgrade is real good noticeable improvement and with no real noticeable drain on the battery, I’m sure there is, physics says there must be, but I wouldn’t go back.
I measured the XL at 465mm
Jamm13dodger
Member
I can measure the L if you tell me where you take the measurements from?
Is it top of seatpost to end of stem?
No, you need to measure from centre of crank axle to centre of steerer tube as a horizontal line.
To do this at home you can get someone to hold your bike against a flat wall (bike rear tyre against the wall). You will get two measurements:
1- Measure the distance from the wall to the centre of the frames steerer tube (NOT the stem as this will result is an incorrect value)
2 - measure the distance from the wall to the centre of the crank axle
3 - Subtract value 2 from value 1
You could go for a DHR/DHF or DHR/DHR combination. I think Rob likes this setup. Magic Mary's will give you lots of grip and solidity. Eddy Currents also. Personally I like the E-wilds. Lots of grip and predictability in all conditions. Lower rolling resistance than the others mentioned and slightly quieter. Slightly less mud plugging ability with the smaller centre knobs, but they've only let me down once in thick mud. @PhilBaker has just put a pair of 2.6 on a Stilus, so can probably give you some Stilus related feed back. They also seem fairly good on longevity and not disintegrating with abuse ...
Jamm13dodger
Member
1240mm -840mm = 400
that sounds super short but I've measured twice? I measured to the centre of the top of the steerer tube. Is that correct?
that sounds super short but I've measured twice? I measured to the centre of the top of the steerer tube. Is that correct?
Hmm... I quite like your method.
I've always measured "reach" by dropping a plumbline. Either from the centre of the top of the frame's headtube or dropped to disect the BB and then simply measure horizontally.
* a simple plumbline can be made from a piece of string/thread/wool with anything vaguely weighty tied on to it
Just to reiterate what rob said above, The measurement needs to be taken from the centreline of the top of the frames head tube. (below upper headset cup, spacers etc)
Yes. Centre as in to the steering axis centre: (not the centre of the rear of the headtube)
400mm is a pretty short reach for any modern mtb these days bar dirtjump bikes.
Not exactly unridable though. 10 years or so back it wouldn't have been uncommon for M (and some L) DH bikes to have around 400mm reach with similar headtube angles to the Stilus
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Rap Dance 9000
Active member
Jamm13dodger
Member
Hmm... I quite like your method.
I've always measured "reach" by dropping a plumbline. Either from the centre of the top of the frame's headtube or dropped to disect the BB and then simply measure horizontally.
* a simple plumbline can be made from a piece of string/thread/wool with anything vaguely weighty tied on to it
Just to reiterate what rob said above, The measurement needs to be taken from the centreline of the top of the frames head tube. (below upper headset cup, spacers etc)
Yes. Centre as in to the steering axis centre: (not the centre of the rear of the headtube)
400mm is a pretty short reach for any modern mtb these days bar dirtjump bikes.
Not exactly unridable though. 10 years or so back it wouldn't have been uncommon for M (and some L) DH bikes to have around 400mm reach with similar headtube angles to the Stilus
Ok, using the plumb line method yielded 430mm which seems much more sensible.
taxidriver50005
Active member
I could be wrong but I was under the impression that the upgrade only affects embt and turbo with increased torque, eco and tour remain the same at 75nm.
Pigin
Well-known member
Im not sure about that and it certainly doesn’t feel that way.
you should really get the same result whichever of the two methods you employ.
But Rob's wall method is a little easier to mess up as for an accurate measurement you need to make sure the bike is perpendicular to the wall and both measurements are also perfectly perpendicular, straight and perfectly horizontal.
With my method the shortest distance from the plumbline to the (headtube/BB) is automatically horizontal.
You just need to make sure the bike is stood on level ground
On paper I should absolutely hate this Bikes geometry. In reality, I can’t believe how good it feels, and cant really work out why...
Its got a reach in XL of 465mm and chainstay of 485mm, low BB and slack head angle (with my Mullet setup - 160mm Pike).... Its like a Frankenbike. Maybe it’s because I’m tall? I’m really trying to work out why it works so well... For my size, its got a crazy quick steering and super nimble, but stable front end... and stable rear.. On steeper sections it feels super planted and stable (prob due to slack HA). It turns incredibly quick. I can even wheelie it easier than many other bikes.
It also got me thinking about bike geometry in general. And why chain stays are (mostly) constant across all bike sizes, whilst reach and most other measurements change.
For example, a YT decoy in XXL has a 495mm reach. And the frame size small, its reach is 415mm; 8 centimetres shorter. But chain stay is the same 442 mm across all sizes. Just thinking out loud here. but surely rear centre / front centres should also grow / shrink with bike size and rider size.
Im not an expert rider by any means but having ridden many different eeb's, I am at the stage where I can feel what I like, and what I don't with geometry. The the Stylus just...works. I'd honestly ride any terrain on this bike (especially now in the Mullet setup, sub 64 degree head angle). I am not a style monster in my riding, cant really manual / whip, so maybe a folks that can would hate its long chain stay,
Just thinking out loud here by the way, myself and @TheBikePilot rate it highly. I'd honestly considered returning the bike as I thought I'd not really like it. But I am loving how it rides, and its just puzzling as the geometry is so 'opposite' what I think should work...
Its got a reach in XL of 465mm and chainstay of 485mm, low BB and slack head angle (with my Mullet setup - 160mm Pike).... Its like a Frankenbike. Maybe it’s because I’m tall? I’m really trying to work out why it works so well... For my size, its got a crazy quick steering and super nimble, but stable front end... and stable rear.. On steeper sections it feels super planted and stable (prob due to slack HA). It turns incredibly quick. I can even wheelie it easier than many other bikes.
It also got me thinking about bike geometry in general. And why chain stays are (mostly) constant across all bike sizes, whilst reach and most other measurements change.
For example, a YT decoy in XXL has a 495mm reach. And the frame size small, its reach is 415mm; 8 centimetres shorter. But chain stay is the same 442 mm across all sizes. Just thinking out loud here. but surely rear centre / front centres should also grow / shrink with bike size and rider size.
Im not an expert rider by any means but having ridden many different eeb's, I am at the stage where I can feel what I like, and what I don't with geometry. The the Stylus just...works. I'd honestly ride any terrain on this bike (especially now in the Mullet setup, sub 64 degree head angle). I am not a style monster in my riding, cant really manual / whip, so maybe a folks that can would hate its long chain stay,
Just thinking out loud here by the way, myself and @TheBikePilot rate it highly. I'd honestly considered returning the bike as I thought I'd not really like it. But I am loving how it rides, and its just puzzling as the geometry is so 'opposite' what I think should work...
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taxidriver50005
Active member
Perhaps we should do a blindfolded review with this and a few we'll known brands.... Just need somebody experienced and daft enough to give it go???
Pigin
Well-known member
Think of it like alcohol, on paper having read about it, you wouldn’t touch it.
All I can say is..........Cheers ??
to break it down in simplistic terms.
Short reach = more nimble + more immediate steering response
low BB = more stable - especially when cornering or riding slower steeper terrain or cambers
slack HA = more stable - especially at speed
Not just your size, but your preferred body positioning and to some extent your riding style.
don't forget your suspension set-up and controls set-up has a major effect on how the bike suits you too.
One common misconception about long chainstays is that they are difficult to wheelie/manual. This is not actually the case. Long chainstays make unweighting the front to lift it slightly more effort than short chainstays do. But because of this once raised the shorter chainstay is actually LESS stable at balance point and more twitchy to keep there.
It doesn't sound like the reach is actually all that short, it's just short by modern trail bike standards. This isn't necessarily a BAD thing on a heavy Emtb. it's why I ride a small (in modern geo) despite being 5'11"
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taxidriver50005
Active member
Pigin
Well-known member
I can see what you are saying but if it was 85nm across the board then the different modes wouldn’t feel different. It makes sense to have the full 85nm available In turbo. If 85nm was available in every mode then eco won’t use less power than turbo. What I’m saying is that the software update has added increased torque in the other modes, eco was 40% support previously and now it’s 60%. I can’t remember what tour was but now it’s 140% support.
Good find on the stats.
In EMTB you have turbo available with the right amount of torque through the pedals. Where this update seems to excel is low cadence startup, and on the trail when you need a kick and over technical climbs. It also feels more natural. Don't know about Eco and Tour. It's super fun.
This is a very, very fun bike. Maybe as @Gary has said it suits me and Rob being that bit taller, the geo works for us. I think most bikes are made to an average height and somehow this has just hit the sweet spot for our proportions.
In any case, it's an absolute ripper. I can see it being very hard to get hold of now with over 100k views and all the positive feedback rather like the 2019 Levo..I hope they can ramp up production..
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