Bafang M600 Service and Repair

[Neeko DeVinchi]

I'm starting this thread in anticipation of a series of videos I'm currently editing.

In accordance with the moderators request, this thread is strictly about the servicing & repairs of the Bafang M600 motor. And should not be mistaken for either the M500 and M510. Certain components for the M600 are specific to this motor including but not limited too,

Main reduction gear

and the controller.

In addition, more durable needle bearings are surfacing, which promises more reliability and longevity.

The grease used in particular areas within the motor and how much to apply, can also determine how long specific components last. So I'll do my utmost to carefully explain what grease in specific areas and where to source them from.

In the meantime please don't hesitate to reach out to me on this thread.

I may start another thread, specific to the servicing and repair of the M620 (UART & CANBus and the differences internally between the two). So please bare with

 

[temon10]

I'm starting this thread in anticipation of a series of videos I'm currently editing.

In accordance with the moderators request, this thread is strictly about the servicing & repairs of the Bafang M600 motor. And should not be mistaken for either the M500 and M510. Certain components for the M600 are specific to this motor including but not limited too, View attachment 99016
Main reduction gear
View attachment 99017
and the controller. View attachment 99018
In addition, more durable needle bearings are surfacing, which promises more reliability and longevity.
View attachment 99019
The grease used in particular areas within the motor and how much to apply, can also determine how long specific components last. So I'll do my utmost to carefully explain what grease in specific areas and where to source them from.
View attachment 99020
In the meantime please don't hesitate to reach out to me on this thread.

I may start another thread, specific to the servicing and repair of the M620 (UART & CANBus and the differences internally between the two). So please bare with

Neko, My M600 controller suddenly dead. Already test with my friends controller motor can turn on. Is there anyway servising the controller without buy a new one?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Neko, My M600 controller suddenly dead. Already test with my friends controller motor can turn on. Is there anyway servising the controller without buy a new one?

Without looking at the motherboard and connectors, I couldn't say. I've swapped the white molex connectors out of one controller due to an alignment issue.
Kindly take clear pictures for inspection

 

[temon10]

 

[temon10]

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Apologies for the delay @temon10.

The controller's connectors and motherboard look clean. No signs of overeating through overvaulting etc.

Your phase wire cables dont seem damaged or kinked. And the pins in for the molex connectors look straight.

My guess is that a particular part of the controller has shorted out.

Bafang M600 48V 36V 500W controller for replacement -Greenbikekit.com BBS, ebike batteries, Bafang M620, Bafang M600, Bafang M500, Bafang M510, KT controller with display-GreenBikeKit.com

Bafang M600 48V 36V 500W controller for replacement.

www.greenbikekit.com

I know this is probably what you don't want to hear. But I'd simply buy a new controller and cut your losses with the old one.

Luna M600 Ludicrous V2

New Ludicrous tech is coming to our M600 drive units! Smooth, efficient and customizable, this new controller shares the same platform of our BBSHD ludicrous v2 controller in a tighter package, fully integrated with the Luna X2 bike.This is a 12 MOSFET controller, running at high frequency for...

lunacycle.com

I've heard that the Ludicrous controller is a better controller than the stock

 

[Dean R]

Hi my controller connections have a fault, hope you can help.
With the controller loose on the side of the motor I can power up my bike. And tun it off.
But when I fasten the controller back to the side of the motor it won’t turn off or if it times out it wont turn on.
once I remove the screws from the controller it will power up again or after I have disturbed the wires.
so I’m guessing a loose connection on one of the three white plugs but no idea which one I should be looking at or how to diagnose which one it is.
Except the small one with two black wires looks a little suspect.

 

[patdam]

i make a mistake during software download (i have disconnect the wire). result:
i can't switch on the motor
when i try to read controller info with BESST tool => empty.

Does soùebody have an solution ? i need to replace the controller ?


solved. i have removed the battery several minutes and after with BESST tool pro i could upload the software

 

[Dado]

i make a mistake during software download (i have disconnect the wire). result:
i can't switch on the motor
when i try to read controller info with BESST tool => empty.

Does soùebody have an solution ? i need to replace the controller ?


solved. i have removed the battery several minutes and after with BESST tool pro i could upload the software

When motor is "half bricked" you can not read motor over Besst. Then do the trick with force flash by typing CR into serial number and open any bin file for your motor. Then just connect to motor.

 

[vikino1]

I can confirm Dado words, it happened to me too. After his advice, it took off.

 

[patdam]

thanks all. solved. simply by ignite the motor before connect BESST (with firmware previously upload on BESST).

 

[priestc]

I have an ebike that uses the M600 motor. I've had it for about a year and have put about 1800 miles on it. Over time the motor has gotten louder and louder. It sounds like some part is just not lubricated enough or something. The sound is not consistent, there is a frequency to it. I've been meaning to disassemble to motor to see if I can see is anything that can be fixed, but doing that requires special tools that I don't have, so I've been putting it off.

Anyways, I was riding it a few weeks ago, and the motor just cut out. I tried pressing the power button on and off again, but nothing happened. The screen comes on, but there is just no torque in the motor. So I've parked that bike and order the tools needed to get it disassembled.

I bought this: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...t_main.29.16451802Qj6snh&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

which allowed me to remove the ring holding on the chainring, but after that I have no idea what to do next to get into the motor. Is there a document somewhere the explains how to disassemble the motor?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Hi @priestc, if you've had the motor for less than 2years, it might be worth attempting to go through the warranty process and getting it serviced. However if it's difficult to go through the warranty process, you'll need to do the following.

You'll first need to remove the controller which is located on the driveside (the side where the chainring spider is attached.

Using a T10, undo the four screws which secure the controller in place.

Before unplugging the controller, take a picture so you know which cable/connector connects where.

You'll then need a T20, which will allow you to undo the remaining bolts which keep the motors two sides together.

All the T10 bolts and the T20 bolts are the same length. So don't worry if you put them all together. However, be sure to use the T20 bolts for the motor housing and the T10 bolts for the controller.

Once all the T20 bolts have been removed, you'll need to pry the two half's away from each other.
DO NOT SIMPLY PRY SOMETHING LIKE A KNIFE OR TYRE LEAVER. Instead, gently tap the motor housing with a mallet and block of wood. You'll eventually see that the motor's two halves will start to come apart. Be sure not to damage the seal gasket, as you'll need to replace it if you do.

As you split the motor housing apart, you'll notice tabs which allow the motor casing to remain in line perpendicular to each side. So gently remove the drive side panel and you'll eventually be able to get to the guts of the motor.

Let me know if you want me to walk you through anything specific

 

[Pav09990]

I'm starting this thread in anticipation of a series of videos I'm currently editing.

In accordance with the moderators request, this thread is strictly about the servicing & repairs of the Bafang M600 motor. And should not be mistaken for either the M500 and M510. Certain components for the M600 are specific to this motor including but not limited too, View attachment 99016
Main reduction gear
View attachment 99017
and the controller. View attachment 99018
In addition, more durable needle bearings are surfacing, which promises more reliability and longevity.
View attachment 99019
The grease used in particular areas within the motor and how much to apply, can also determine how long specific components last. So I'll do my utmost to carefully explain what grease in specific areas and where to source them from.
View attachment 99020
In the meantime please don't hesitate to reach out to me on this thread.

I may start another thread, specific to the servicing and repair of the M620 (UART & CANBus and the differences internally between the two). So please bare with

Hi Neeko do you have number for the bigger nidle bering please ?

 

[vext]

Hey Neeko

I got a weird problem with my m600. I changed out my throttle to a twist throttle from the simpler rotating thumb throttle.

When I applied power to the twist throttle it fried the controller board.

I used a twist throttle with a correct bafang plug and just assumed it would be compatible.

Do you know of any reason why a different bafang plug throttle might fry a m600 controller board?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Hey Neeko

I got a weird problem with my m600. I changed out my throttle to a twist throttle from the simpler rotating thumb throttle.

When I applied power to the twist throttle it fried the controller board.

I used a twist throttle with a correct bafang plug and just assumed it would be compatible.

Do you know of any reason why a different bafang plug throttle might fry a m600 controller board?

Bizarre!!!
I know that some Throttles don't have dead spot zones around the ring. Which allows them to initiate movement quicker than others. But the controller ultimately governs how much power can be applied.

It's possible that the controller was on the verge of failing regardless of the throttle swap. But I'll share your experiences to my community groups, to see whether others have encountered a similar problem

 

[vext]

Bizarre!!!
I know that some Throttles don't have dead spot zones around the ring. Which allows them to initiate movement quicker than others. But the controller ultimately governs how much power can be applied.

It's possible that the controller was on the verge of failing regardless of the throttle swap. But I'll share your experiences to my community groups, to see whether others have encountered a similar problem

Thanks!

So I too thought it was just a nearly-bad controller but it fried another brand new one that I replaced. I got a third board and went back to the old throttle and it worked. SMH.

Now it COULD have been a firmware/throttle combination... as I was trying different firmwares or it could be a single bad (or incompatible?) twist throttle.

I guess it would be good to know what circumstances might cause this kind of throttle-related board failure. I'd like to use a twist throttle but I can't keep frying boards!!!!

(Alternatively, maybe you can point me to someone who can fix ((or teach me how to fix)) the two broken boards?)

Thanks again man.

 

[0grayscale1]

Neeko, are there upgraded M600 parts that you would recommend for long-term reliability? Also, what are your thoughts on maintenance and how often it should be performed on the motor?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Neeko, are there upgraded M600 parts that you would recommend for long-term reliability? Also, what are your thoughts on maintenance and how often it should be performed on the motor?

I can't think of many parts to upgrade internally within the motor which improves performance. The grease would be the main thing to consider and where it's applied.

I only find myself servicing the motor, if it feels rough or it's not engaging as smoothly as it should. But theirs no set time period or mileage count to stick too. Ultimately If it needs servicing, it needs servicing

 

[0grayscale1]

I can't think of many parts to upgrade internally within the motor which improves performance. The grease would be the main thing to consider and where it's applied.

I only find myself servicing the motor, if it feels rough or it's not engaging as smoothly as it should. But theirs no set time period or mileage count to stick too. Ultimately If it needs servicing, it needs servicing

Thanks for the advice and info. My motor died at about 6K miles, sent it off to Bafang and they said they replaced the torque sensor (under warranty) and I just wasn't sure if that was a fluke or about how often parts start to fail on the M600.

 

[balibesnier]

Hello can anyone help me find m600 Needle bearings, can't find them anywhere. Also the seller of bike disappeared can I contact bafang directly for warranty?

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Currently, GBK have them on offer

Bafang M600 M510 M500 one way bearing for main steel gear- greenbikekit.com BBS, ebike batteries, Bafang M620, Bafang M600, Bafang M500, Bafang M510, KT controller with display-GreenBikeKit.com

Bafang M600 M510 M500 one way bearing for reduction gear

www.greenbikekit.com

 

[balibesnier]

Currently, GBK have them on offer

Bafang M600 M510 M500 one way bearing for main steel gear- greenbikekit.com BBS, ebike batteries, Bafang M620, Bafang M600, Bafang M500, Bafang M510, KT controller with display-GreenBikeKit.com

Bafang M600 M510 M500 one way bearing for reduction gear

www.greenbikekit.com

Thanks for the reply.

Is the picture from the bearing it doesn't look like others I've seen like the Japanese one on this thread.

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Thanks for the reply.

Is the picture from the bearing it doesn't look like others I've seen like the Japanese one on this thread.

The one-way needle bearing for the M510/M600/M500/M560 are the same. GBK are reputable. So their parts for Bafang are genuine.

The one-way needle bearing on the left came from a stock M600. The one on the right is from GBK. They are both identical.

Its good practice to inspect the primary gear.

Check for any seal damage which the crank spindle would pass through.

In addition, check the teeth within the bearing insert of the primary gear.

Lastly, make sure that the outer bearing on the primary gear is fully seated onto the primary gear. Otherwise, you'll find that the motor outer cover will not fully lock everything into place and you'll develop play within the motor. Thereby prematurely wearing the primary gear.

Use slick honey or a suspension grease to coat the one-way needle bearing when assembling.

And make sure to use the spacer between the one-way needle bearing and primary gear to prevent seizing or binding

 

[balibesnier]

I see it was missing the rollers that's why I was confused. Do the ones from gbk have rollers included? Cause mine are bent

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Yes @balibesnier.
Purchase both the primary gear and one-way needle bearing at the same time.
GBK usually offers discounts when purchased together

 

[balibesnier]

You sir are a god-damned legend

Yes @balibesnier.
Purchase both the primary gear and one-way needle bearing at the same time.
GBK usually offers discounts when purchased together

 

[balibesnier]

Neko sorry to be a nuisance but now im really confused between 2 different parts.

This above is the one way piece that greebikekit sells and it doesnt use rollers

this is the needle bearing that I THOUGHt was the one that is failing. My issue is sometimes when i push on the pedals the crank arms spin without engaging. This last piece comes only with the entire main gear according to greenkit.

Am i correct in that the second picture showing needle bearing is the one to change or is the the first piece that needs replacing? im trying to save a few dollars here because the rest of my main gear is perfect.
sorry again for being an idiot

 

[Neeko DeVinchi]

Neko sorry to be a nuisance but now im really confused between 2 different parts.
View attachment 151335
This above is the one way piece that greebikekit sells and it doesnt use rollers

View attachment 151336
this is the needle bearing that I THOUGHt was the one that is failing. My issue is sometimes when i push on the pedals the crank arms spin without engaging. This last piece comes only with the entire main gear according to greenkit.

Am i correct in that the second picture showing needle bearing is the one to change or is the the first piece that needs replacing? im trying to save a few dollars here because the rest of my main gear is perfect.
sorry again for being an idiot

Usually, most simply replace the entire primary gear which contains the roller needles. Trying to pry the roller needle out is tricky without causing damage to the primary gear and the seal which prevents moisture penetrating the crank spindle.
I appreciate that you're trying to save dollars. But replacing the primary gear is far more simple and effective

 

[balibesnier]

Usually, most simply replace the entire primary gear which contains the roller needles. Trying to pry the roller needle out is tricky without causing damage to the primary gear and the seal which prevents moisture penetrating the crank spindle.
I appreciate that you're trying to save dollars. But replacing the primary gear is far more simple and effective

Yeah I understand and I think you are right. Thanks again for everything