Any Yamaha YDX owners?

[Ride 2d@y]

FYI - These guys have them and you can test ride on dirt right out of their shop. (Poway, CA)

 

[FormerFloppy]

OP here... in case anyone is still interested in these bikes, I just got an email from Yamaha saying they are offering $200-500 off (depending on model), throwing in a free 2nd battery ($1400 value according to the email) and extending the warranty on the motor & battery to 5 years. Apparently the extra battery and warranty is also available to current owners, so those of you on this thread should look into that.
Sadly, my main concern from when I started this thread ~3 years ago still exists - there are no dealers within 60 miles and no dealers that aren't motorsports dealers.

Edit: Here's the link to the information - Promotions

Epic pro tip on the warranty extension and battery, link still good as of Mar 2024

Have a Moro Pro

Interestingly enough, also had a motor mount bolt come loose as some have mentioned, rode on it with 3 bolts for a whole park day, sheared a second one off. Had a ton of trouble replacing those bolts, ended up going back to original shop purchased from (San Diego Electric Bike) and the owner was SUPER nice, willing to pull down one of his floorstock and pull the bolts off a new bike. He said that Yamaha has made it an absolute pain to get parts and service, and plan to drop them altogether because of it. It’s a bummer Yamaha hasn’t provided more availability for parts and service, because I’ve absolutely loved the bike.

Anyone had any luck with sourcing parts, especially out of SoCal areas?

 

[FormerFloppy]

Also, anyone able to find a more extensive torque spec list than just the basic assembly manual that’s on Yamahas website? That one does not include torque spec for those motor mount bolts for example…

 

[bsquared]

Partzilla: OEM Motorcycle Parts, ATV Parts, Marine Parts - I have found replacement parts here!

And yes - I found torque specs...

https://flaviaspeed.at/Yamaha_PW_Installation_guide.pdf

Blue Loctite those motor mounts!

 

[SPtheALIEN]

Hi all--I know this is an old thread but I just bought this from Yamaha (and hopefully take delivery of it in the next few days). I am reading that I should loctite the motor mount screws and I am curious if these are the screws that I need the extra TLC.

Also, for those in San Diego, I spoke to the Fly Rides shop in Poway and they said that they can service the bikes.

 

[FormerFloppy]

Hi all--I know this is an old thread but I just bought this from Yamaha (and hopefully take delivery of it in the next few days). I am reading that I should loctite the motor mount screws and I am curious if these are the screws that I need the extra TLC.

Also, for those in San Diego, I spoke to the Fly Rides shop in Poway and they said that they can service the bikes.

View attachment 146651

Glad to resurrect the thread, there’s still YDX owners out there

I would DEFINITELY locktite those suckers. I have had several issues with them backing out, though I had the pw-x2 motor the 2022 version, it looks from your diagram they have made some adjustments, perhaps for that exact reason.

But it’s a great bike, I have loved it. GREAT to know about fly rides, that’s been my biggest gripe is no one carrying parts or knowledgeable about them.

Happy riding 🫡

 

[SPtheALIEN]

Glad to resurrect the thread, there’s still YDX owners out there

I would DEFINITELY locktite those suckers. I have had several issues with them backing out, though I had the pw-x2 motor the 2022 version, it looks from your diagram they have made some adjustments, perhaps for that exact reason.

But it’s a great bike, I have loved it. GREAT to know about fly rides, that’s been my biggest gripe is no one carrying parts or knowledgeable about them.

Happy riding 🫡

Roger that! I have the loctite in hand--just waiting for the shop to let me know the bike is ready to pick up. When I go, I would like to see if they can order a spare derailleur hanger since the one on the bike certainly does not look like the readily available one.

 

[FormerFloppy]

Roger that! I have the loctite in hand--just waiting for the shop to let me know the bike is ready to pick up. When I go, I would like to see if they can order a spare derailleur hanger since the one on the bike certainly does not look like the readily available one.

Actually that is also a really good idea, that is the one other piece I've had multiple failures. I can't speak to the current model, but my model had a derailleur attachment that seemed weak in design, and in practice snapped twice under minor incidents. I have since replaced with an sram eagle electronic drivetrain system and that thing has been absolutely bombproof. They likely upgraded in the current model, but picking up a spare is a really good idea of they have one. Ill see if I can dig up a photo of the part I'm talking about.

The rest of the bike has been seriously well designed and thoughtful, Yamaha is no chump when it comes to two wheeled applications, I've owned Yamaha dirt bikes my whole life. I think its just taken a few iterations to work out the kinks in their MTB line.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

I went through alot of trial and error before I got the motor mounts on mine to stop loosening (I also had the PW-X2 on the original moro - yellow one). It was always the drive side. I replaced the bolts with regular hex bolts and tried blue loctite. That would not work. Eventually I had to pull the motor, clean the mounting surfaces from dirt and grease, and use orange loctite to get it to stop.

I agree they are great bikes. The build quality is amazing, especially for the money. The price they are now is just insane. My only gripe with them is the geometry. If you ride another bike with "modern" geo, it makes you realize what your missing out on. If you just like to ride mellow trails and log miles, they ride great. But if you like to shred, you'll soon outride the bike.

 

[FormerFloppy]

I went through alot of trial and error before I got the motor mounts on mine to stop loosening (I also had the PW-X2 on the original moro - yellow one). It was always the drive side. I replaced the bolts with regular hex bolts and tried blue loctite. That would not work. Eventually I had to pull the motor, clean the mounting surfaces from dirt and grease, and use orange loctite to get it to stop.

I agree they are great bikes. The build quality is amazing, especially for the money. The price they are now is just insane. My only gripe with them is the geometry. If you ride another bike with "modern" geo, it makes you realize what your missing out on. If you just like to ride mellow trails and log miles, they ride great. But if you like to shred, you'll soon outride the bike.

Same it has always been the drive side (fascinating that they use huge through bolts on the far side and tiny 6mm bolts on the drive side)

Great idea to clean the mounting surfaces, will have to try that, I’ve had the motor shift twice from major pedal strikes. were you able to find actual torque specs on those bolts? Even the links suggested earlier in this thread did not contain accurate specs (was for a different motor all together or something)

And do agree about the modern geo, rode a NICE Levo the other day, and on all the chunky enduro downhill type stuff in Santee near me it was

 

[FormerFloppy]

Though I will say… I’ve hit park days in big bear and some serious downhill chunk and she’s handled just fine… a levo just might do it a little more gracefully

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

were you able to find actual torque specs on those bolts?

I never found good actual torque specs, but I probably over torqued them. lol I ran them TIGHT. The motor mounts on this thing are really funny. I’ve had to pull the motor twice due to cable routing and discovered they are odd. They have a sleeve that both bolts go into and the motor kinda “floats”. It’s odd but works.

 

[SPtheALIEN]

I never found good actual torque specs, but I probably over torqued them. lol I ran them TIGHT. The motor mounts on this thing are really funny. I’ve had to pull the motor twice due to cable routing and discovered they are odd. They have a sleeve that both bolts go into and the motor kinda “floats”. It’s odd but works.

Oh--that is interesting. I guess I'll see what this sleeve is all about when I pick up the bike this week. From the photos, it looks like they are torx. Do you know what size is needed for the motor mounts?

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

Do you know what size is needed for the motor mounts?

I can’t remember right off, I ditched them for regular, stainless, hex bolts. I do remember they were the security torx with the little nipple in the middle.

 

[SPtheALIEN]

I can’t remember right off, I ditched them for regular, stainless, hex bolts. I do remember they were the security torx with the little nipple in the middle.

oh! the pesky T-TORX! NO!!! I guess I will need to swap those out for regular hex bolts, too.

 

[SPtheALIEN]

I am looking at the marketing photos and wonder if they didn't use the security torx for these photos, but ended up doing it on the release bikes. Thanks for letting me know--I almost picked up a kit of normal torx bits based off this picture alone.

 

[mustclime]

And do agree about the modern geo, rode a NICE Levo the other day, and on all the chunky enduro downhill type stuff in Santee near me it was

I have to disagree. I talked a buddy into picking up a Moro-07 for $2600 plus an extra battery. Had him bring it over to my place and did the following mods. I changed out the 160mm air shaft with a new 170mm air shaft. I pulled the tires and set it up tubeless 27.5x2.8 e wild enduros. The bike comes with 40mm inside width wheels, Yamaha designed the bike to be run with 27.5 plus wheels and tires. I also added a 220mm rotor on the front. You really want to make the Moro ride well, add some 2.8 tires, run the sub 20psi and you can ride like I ride my Kenevo with 27.5 plus. At some point he will pickup up 38mm fork and run it at 170mm. Do it soon , 27.5 plus stuff is out of fashion and really cheap. 27.5 38 forks are also dirt cheap.
Sa for the “modern geo” , Yamaha miss stated the seat tube angle, they listed the actual angle rather that the real effective seat angle. It’s really 77ish degrees, with the taller fork thes just under 77 degree while head angle goes down to 65.5. It will be slacker with a 38mm fork, they have longer axle to crown numbers. At $2600, these bikes are the deal of the year.

 

[SPtheALIEN]

I have to disagree. I talked a buddy into picking up a Moro-07 for $2600 plus an extra battery. Had him bring it over to my place and did the following mods. I changed out the 160mm air shaft with a new 170mm air shaft. I pulled the tires and set it up tubeless 27.5x2.8 e wild enduros. The bike comes with 40mm inside width wheels, Yamaha designed the bike to be run with 27.5 plus wheels and tires. I also added a 220mm rotor on the front. You really want to make the Moro ride well, add some 2.8 tires, run the sub 20psi and you can ride like I ride my Kenevo with 27.5 plus. At some point he will pickup up 38mm fork and run it at 170mm. Do it soon , 27.5 plus stuff is out of fashion and really cheap. 27.5 38 forks are also dirt cheap.
Sa for the “modern geo” , Yamaha miss stated the seat tube angle, they listed the actual angle rather that the real effective seat angle. It’s really 77ish degrees, with the taller fork thes just under 77 degree while head angle goes down to 65.5. It will be slacker with a 38mm fork, they have longer axle to crown numbers. At $2600, these bikes are the deal of the year.

That's what got me! Sounds like your friend got the 07 SE, too! Did he get the spare battery from the dealer or did Yamaha send it over to him? I thought you the dealer had to register the bike and then Yamaha would send it to your address. Just curious so I can prepare for the bike pickup.

 

[mustclime]

That's what got me! Sounds like your friend got the 07 SE, too! Did he get the spare battery from the dealer or did Yamaha send it over to him? I thought you the dealer had to register the bike and then Yamaha would send it to your address. Just curious so I can prepare for the bike pickup.

Guess it depends on the dealer, his dealer had the batteries….i was not with him when he bought the Moro 07 but he did show me the extra battery.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

Sa for the “modern geo” , Yamaha miss stated the seat tube angle, they listed the actual angle rather that the real effective seat angle. It’s really 77ish degrees, with the taller fork thes just under 77 degree while head angle goes down to 65.5.

I put over 1000 miles on a regular Moro with a 170mm Zeb, Fox Float X shock, MT5 brakes, and Maxxis 27.5x2.8 tires with cushcore. It was a great bike, but if you ride any other "modern" bike you can tell a big difference. I don't know what the seat tube angle is, but its most definitely slack. WAAAAY slack. I know its pretty slack because the top tube is LONG. Both my wife and have noticed a huge difference. I think they are a really good deal and a great bike. I payed $3500 a piece for 2 and feel totally happy. My kids ride them now and love them. We will have them forever and didn't get the extended warranty or the extra battery. I would recommend them to anyone.

 

[E J]

OP here again...
After almost 4 years I pulled the trigger this morning on an 07. I discovered there is a bike shop about the same distance as the moto dealer and gave them a call. After speaking with them for a bit I decided to go for it. $2600 for an XT-level bike with a 2nd battery and a 5-yr warranty was too good of a deal to pass up. The sizing on the medium is pretty much the same as the 2008 29er I've been riding, so I don't think it will feel all that different. Some of the other ebikes I've sat on felt super long and tall.
The guy at the shop said he's got a lot of these coming in since this sale hit.
Looks like the silver special edition ones are all gone. I went with the blue.

EDIT: less than 12hrs later I got an email that it's shipped. No tracking - just says the shop will be in touch to arrange pickup.

 

[SPtheALIEN]

OP here again...
After almost 4 years I pulled the trigger this morning on an 07. I discovered there is a bike shop about the same distance as the moto dealer and gave them a call. After speaking with them for a bit I decided to go for it. $2600 for an XT-level bike with a 2nd battery and a 5-yr warranty was too good of a deal to pass up. The sizing on the medium is pretty much the same as the 2008 29er I've been riding, so I don't think it will feel all that different. Some of the other ebikes I've sat on felt super long and tall.
The guy at the shop said he's got a lot of these coming in since this sale hit.
Looks like the silver special edition ones are all gone. I went with the blue.

It was a bonkers deal! I am waiting for mine to get to the shop for pickup.

 

[FormerFloppy]

I can’t believe all yall are gettin these for 2.5K with an extra battery That’s the deal of the century. I think mine was $4900

 

[FormerFloppy]

I have to disagree. I talked a buddy into picking up a Moro-07 for $2600 plus an extra battery. Had him bring it over to my place and did the following mods. I changed out the 160mm air shaft with a new 170mm air shaft. I pulled the tires and set it up tubeless 27.5x2.8 e wild enduros. The bike comes with 40mm inside width wheels, Yamaha designed the bike to be run with 27.5 plus wheels and tires. I also added a 220mm rotor on the front. You really want to make the Moro ride well, add some 2.8 tires, run the sub 20psi and you can ride like I ride my Kenevo with 27.5 plus. At some point he will pickup up 38mm fork and run it at 170mm. Do it soon , 27.5 plus stuff is out of fashion and really cheap. 27.5 38 forks are also dirt cheap.
Sa for the “modern geo” , Yamaha miss stated the seat tube angle, they listed the actual angle rather that the real effective seat angle. It’s really 77ish degrees, with the taller fork thes just under 77 degree while head angle goes down to 65.5. It will be slacker with a 38mm fork, they have longer axle to crown numbers. At $2600, these bikes are the deal of the year.

Have thought a bit about how to set this bike up to feel slacker, anyone ever thought about putting a 29 fork on the front?? What other things could be done to tweak things to sit the angle back a little bit?

 

[Rickster]

Same it has always been the drive side (fascinating that they use huge through bolts on the far side and tiny 6mm bolts on the drive side)

Great idea to clean the mounting surfaces, will have to try that, I’ve had the motor shift twice from major pedal strikes. were you able to find actual torque specs on those bolts? Even the links suggested earlier in this thread did not contain accurate specs (was for a different motor all together or something)

And do agree about the modern geo, rode a NICE Levo the other day, and on all the chunky enduro downhill type stuff in Santee near me it was

The actual torque for the long motor mt bolts are 22nm, the short bolts on the drive side are 11 nm. Don't use 22 nm on the drive side or they will sheer off. Completely remove each bolt and clean the old lock tight off. Blue lock tight and torque down the non drive side first.

 

[CarolinaCrawler]

Have thought a bit about how to set this bike up to feel slacker, anyone ever thought about putting a 29 fork on the front?? What other things could be done to tweak things to sit the angle back a little bit?

I know several people that have tried and were sucessufull. I tried it with a fork I had but it was a 170mm 29er fork and it was too slack. It made it handle very strange. I was just trying what I had. If I find a cheap 29 fork I would defiantly try it though.

 

[mustclime]

Have thought a bit about how to set this bike up to feel slacker, anyone ever thought about putting a 29 fork on the front?? What other things could be done to tweak things to sit the angle back a little bit?

You want a slacker front end or a taller stack hight. Adding a 170mm air shaft only raises the front end by 5-6mm because of the head angle. Adding a 29er fork adds about 20mm to the fork length but this again will only raise the front about 13-15 mm. The problem with reducing the head angle to much also makes the seat tube even slacker. This can be offset by sliding the seat forward on its rails. Doing this with the slacker head angle will really shorten the effective top tube……

 

[FormerFloppy]

The actual torque for the long motor mt bolts are 22nm, the short bolts on the drive side are 11 nm. Don't use 22 nm on the drive side or they will sheer off. Completely remove each bolt and clean the old lock tight off. Blue lock tight and torque down the non drive side first.

Amazing, I torqued them at 20 & 10 just based on sizing of the bolts, pretty close thanks where did you find that?

 

[FormerFloppy]

And helpful thoughts on slack y’all’s input led me to all the various options for over forking, or possibly a headset angle adjustment cup. Problem with the angle adjust cup is I think this is an integrated headset.

If I get to trying it will post results here!