You don't need to do anything special with it - if you change the horse link and put a 29er, the flip chip will reflect the "true" geo of the bike. So you can have it on high or low, depending on your preference. If you want to keep your current setup, keep it in high.
The previous discussion...
Is there a way to contact Specialized about the app? Maybe if all 1000+ members complaining about the app did it, they'd take notice and get someone to fix it...
I'm currently experimenting with 35/35 eco, 35/80 trail and 100/100 turbo. I think it's personal to fitness level, but I find that I get great battery out of this as long as I only go to trail as needed (don't really need turbo, but maybe if I'm well into the ride and there's a very steep...
I would suggest - get the proper chain length, and try the setup in B. If it doesn't work well, do what I did and switch to A (keep the 21T setup cog) and see if that works. You won't be ruining anything - you can always go back - and it's a 10 minute trial and error. If A works for you, just...
Yes it had 116 just as recommended in the short chainstay position. It recommends 118 for the long chainstay, but when I switched to long I didn't add 2 links and it works just fine.
yes, and I contacted SRAM to ask them to check if their guide is wrong... I know another guy who switched to A.
You don't need to take the derailleur off. Watch the SRAM T-type install video, basically loosen a bit the rear wheel axle, then loosen the derailleur (where it says 35N), then switch...
Got the bike - love the color and looks!! Rides very well too :)
Question to current owners: I've seen on another thread folks using the 29er setting with the 27.5 wheel in the rear, to lengthen chainstay and wheelbase (like Matt suggests in this article's "geo and sizing" section). Did other...
Absolutely not that bad! I was just responding to some folks who had a problem with me complaining about the component spec on a demo bike.
As mentioned in the review, the bike has great handling descending and cornering and frankly I don't think anyone needs a "full" ebike when you have this...
Thanks for watching! I think some folks here should just buy a Turbo Vado they'll save money and get similar results :)
I hope folks educate themselves before buying an $8k+ bike. On the other hand, folks that don't know anything about component specs hopefully can keep the bike industry humming...
Haha maybe I've offended some existing owners... But yeah, if you can't tell the difference between Fox "performance" and "Performance Elite" after a few minutes of riding then I guess any spec would do. And WRT Tallboy - I win Enduro races with that rig. But then, I forget how diverse the E-MTB...
If
Based on OP self proclaimed riding style I agree. For the others that think the XT are powerful enough to take a full powered on any steep, I disagree from experience. It's not just about the number of pistons, and ebikes generally need more stopping power than downhill bikes which are never...
Good enough depends on your riding. Your bike will weigh over 15lbs more than a modern downhill bike and possibly go as fast (it's got enough suspension to do so) so you need the strongest breaks. Shimano Saints, sram code or Maven (Maven supposedly stronger but I've been running codes fine for...
I rode the Moterra SL2 for a demo last week and even posted a youtube on the experience. My impressions were very mixed, and I agree with one of the commenters that the Shimano motor also has its own issues (like loud rattle)