Does anyone have a link to buy a replacement button switch for the DPC241 display. I've broken the latch piece which locks the switch to the handlebars unfortunately ( hooked it somehow in a gate post as I squeezed the bike through a style ).
Alternatively does someone have a damaged switch I...
My
There already is some integration with the Garmin. My Explore recognises my M600 / DPC241 and somehow knows when the battery is down to 10%, showing a low battery level on the Garmin.
Within the Garmin features there are a number of fields you can look for and some BT integration with...
Yep everything we looked at suggested 1P was really only good for an extender battery in conjunction with the main pack. I think Spec SL's will run on only the extender pack but I can't confirm that. I would suspect at realtively low W's perhaps ?
To weld 0.2mm nickel you have to have a welder...
Pretty much agree with the above. A couple of notes though. The 50E’s at 2P are marginal at the levels of 15A. We built such a pack and at the lower cell voltage levels it would voltage sag enough under load to trigger the BMS when used around 350W’s for any length of climb. We built a 40T 2P...
Yep should be interesting for us as I don’t know of any 1P packs being used other than some of the extender packs which normally are used together with the main pack. Do report how you get on as 1P would make a great bottle extender pack to be used as a get me home pack.
Out of curiosity I...
You may want to check but the 50S we used were only 20A continuous, looking on line some of the dealers are quoting 25A. There are lots of versions though so do check to see what you have.
In the smaller 2P packs we used the 40T version, really good cells and handled 600W’s right to the full...
Be careful on your choice of cell, you will need probably a 30A minimum capable cell ( 40A would be better ) to handle a 500W loading. At lower cell voltages you may run the risk of the BMS shutting down the battery early if you under estimate this.
Sorry guys, that was written in a bit of haste, I had meant the use of the BMS rather than the remote switch as the way to turn on the battery and to put it into a sleep mode, hence ficorama's reply. Apologies
As an aside I have a Fazua battery here which flattened the last two groups of cells when left for about a year without charge. Unfortunately Fazua in their wisdom won't allow those groups to be replaced ( very low voltage damages the cellls ) and the whole unit is now toast.
Yes you are correct in that the remote switch will enable the battery contacts to become live. I think the App normally allows both a method of putting the BMS / battery into a ready state and also a sleep state.
Its been some years since I've fitted one of these as those early smart BMS's and...
Threw my chain guide away as it was creating problems with sucking in mud and sticks on my M600, fitted a narrow wide front 104 ring and never had a derailment since.
None really other than being able to put the battery into a deep sleep mode if say you were not planning to use the bike over a winter and wanted to ensure the battery didn't deeply discharge.
To be fair we have so much capacity that it would take years for a BMS to flatten a battery.
Much better an internal and dry electronic switch than an external switch that is open to the environment, run with it and see how you get on, you might be pleasantly surprised.
Mod, as a wee right of reply, If you wish I can bore the readers here to tears with researched papers to prove the points I make and I am probably one of the few readers on this forum who genuinely has tested and played with the electrical settings of both 36V and 48V motors within the same...
It would appear not. The minute you throw in the Internet Troll accusation against someone who is simply trying to correct misinformation, without it would appear actually having any sort of basic knowledge of the subject, then one can only conclude that you are trying to moderate an open forum...
Well that’s interesting, so educated correction of poor internet advice is deemed to be blovation and technocratic trolling.
Alas it’s simply my view that poor advice will delay the advancement of what could be a very good frame and motor, nothing more, nothing less.
You’re welcome to follow whoever you want, it’s no problem for me.
All I can do is recommend that you do some research and make informed decisions based on that rather than accepting that everything written on the internet is correct.