Well god dang it... i just bought a RM Altitude... :whistle:
That's about 9 months faster than i expected.
This local bike shop had the exact type/size i wanted in stock (the last one they had). Made a good deal in combination with the overtime pack and smaller 165cranks, so i should be able...
That is actually very good to hear! I mounted shorter 150's on my Spectral ON because of constant pedal strikes. Was a bit worried the RM would have the same problem.
One of the shops here said the same, not expecting many changes for the 2023 model. Ah we'll see.
My E8000 is now reaching the 10k km mark, so its not all that bad. Im hoping with some spare parts and battery hacking i can ride for another year and then switch over to the RM Altitude or something.
The other day i saw a brand new RM altitude A70 on the trails here in Ainsa and i was instantly impressed! After all the crap ive had with my E8000 im looking around for an upgrade.
This new RM Altitude is high on my list! Ive called around to local dealers to see what the situation is with...
Like i mentioned in the E8000 Motor Service topic, im looking to buy an E8000 motor for spare parts and perhaps do a little bit of reverse engineering.
So if you have one that you want to sell, let me know! In good condition, bricked, otherwise defective, doesnt matter, all are welcome.
Needs...
I dont bother with switching out chains to save on cassette wear. Chains cost a lot too you know.
I just ride them until they fail, or shifting performance is starting to deteriorate.
My bike is approaching 9000km and it is on its 2nd SLX cassette and 2nd SLX chain.
Mostly dry, dusty riding...
Yeah i was just going to say, use some tweezers with very fine point and you can bend the internal pins inwards (toward each other). You can do this from the outside, no need to open the battery.
Ive done the same for the primary battery contacts, giving them a little more spring force on the...
Well i couldnt be happier...
The battery is performing great. Ive done three complete cycles and it is working perfectly. The battery gauge on the handlebar display shows the correct level. Yay!
Yes, yes it does... :p
But only if you activate the motor.
Yeah this botched solution isnt perfect... :ROFLMAO:
You would know that something is wrong though, the resistor blocks soo much current that the motor wouldnt even run and probably goes in to shutdown due to the voltage collapse...
Since my last update, ive added an ON/OFF switch to the battery:
The switch interrupts the positive power lead from pack to the battery terminal. I needed something to reduce the inrush current when connecting the battery to the bike or the charger. That inrush current was doing some real harm...
So another update:
yesterday i was able to fully charge the "dead" battery with the generic charger. I really like how good that thing is working btw. It does a nice 2A constant current, right up to ~80% and then slowly tapers off to lower and lower current until all cells are fully charged at...
Well, all the BMS "logic" is inside one chip. Its probably a shimano proprietary design, couldnt find any info on that chip. In that chip there are probably several separate hardware circuits for things like protection (overvoltage, undervoltage, temperature, overcurrent etc), communication (to...
Like i said earlier:
a) i currently dont have access to my SMD rework tools, and b) i figure it wont work anyway, the BMS chip in that bricked state probably wont switch the high side p-channel mosfets on.
Im using a Siglent SDS1104X-E for that purpose. Its an affordable 4 channel scope with built-in protocol decode function. Always comes in handy when troubleshooting electronics.
What are you trying to do with the firmware if i may ask?
Thank you! :)
So yeah, parts of the BMS still work as it should, but other parts are just in the "bricked" state. I have thought about shorting the fuse, but a) i currently dont have access to my SMD rework tools, and b) i figure it wont work any way, the BMS chip in that bricked state probably...