@pgtips would you be able to tell me please how big a job to remove the purion? Do you have to remove both battery mounts or is the plug small enough you can sneak the cable out underneath? Not wanting a kiox just want to replace my purion which got banged up in a crash ?
It is in fact 100% completely fine, as the video proves: The clamping force of the seat clamp is 70kg/cm (squared), whereas the clamping force of the jaws of the workstand exert a mere 4.3 kg/cm (squared). The rotational force on the post with a 14kg bike is a mere 27nm. Okay, most eebs are...
Always clamp on the dropper, no problems at all. The jaws tend to mark the frame otherwise, and wreck the invisiframe wrap. If I had a carbon frame I would worry about damaging the frame as well. I think the stands are designed to work best clamping on the dropper, plus it's just convenient.
I'd love one of those discharge cylinders but I've always managed to get by with this super cheap homemade device:
Instead of pumping it up using the handle, I removed the safety valve and put a presta valve in, so I can pump it up using the track pump. I have been lucky though with my rims in...
Must just be a bad batch of tips? I've never had any trouble at all threading mine onto presta valve cores, had it a few years now so maybe they changed the tips? I never knew the tip was double threaded for schraeder as well, it does thread on a bit loose until it is snug, I guess that is why...
That's just brilliant! Looks very professional. And nearly $3000 cheaper than the Park Tool one. Could be a great sideline venture for you, I'm always sore after a day of hefting my bike up and down in the workstand
Others have had a similar problem, but that was caused by the bottom battery mount moving, which can't be your issue since you've already done the battery alignment. Maybe the wiring is being pinched between the motor and the frame? Or possibly a loose connection at the motor?
Put your seat at the optimum pedalling height for you. (i.e. slight bend in knee with pedal down in the 6o'clock position)
Measure from the top of the seat post down to the seat post clamp. (measurement "a" in the diagram @IndigoUnicorn posted above) This is the amount of travel you want. Note...
That's good your caps are coming off easy now, I would put a bit of silicone grease on the o-rings to keep them nice. I guess this must be fairly common, since there's a special tool for the job. Quite an expensive tool though if you only need it the once!
I've been leaving my Bosch battery for at least an hour after my ride, then charging to 100%. I disconnect the charger fairly promptly. It then sits for a week before I go for my next ride. Is this considered too long an interval? Should I instead charge to 60%, then top up to 100% the night...
The o-ring just sits in a groove on the inner face of the end cap. The caps can be tight at times but yours seems unusually so. Maybe try very gently warming the end cap to expand it slightly, see if that helps. Gently, with heat gun or hair dryer or even just out in the warm sun for a while...
The end cap has an o-ring to help keep it in place, and seal out the elements. I guess if it's dried out it could be causing quite a bit of stiction. I would grab the end cap with a pair of pliers. Use a rag to avoid marring the surface. Maybe squirt some silicone or wd40 in there first to...
1. No. Just use the correct chain for how many speeds you have, i.e 11 speed cassette = 11 speed chain
2. Yes, but not necessary. 116 link chains are available, I would only buy a longer one if 116 link sold out
3. KMC chains are fine, I've only ever used KMC on my accoustic bike. I'm only...
I've got this multi tool which will split 12sp chains:HEXUS® II | Topeak
Or something like this: Park Tool CT-3.3 Chain Breaker To Suit 5-12spd
Don't know what the difference is on chain breakers only rated for up to 10sp, perhaps the gauge of the pin driver is too thick ? @Gary should know. ;)...
Not exactly portable, but this is my hack to protect the purion display, held on with a reusable zip tie. I carry my bike in the back of my wagon, so always have to flip the bike get the wheels in. Should really do the same for the other side too.
The way I learned to dial in my tyre pressures, back when I was new to riding, is to inflate to quite a high pressure (over 40psi), and ride trails that are familiar to you. As you ride, reduce the pressure in small increments, noting as you do so the effect this has on the amount of grip and...