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You shouldn't need an adapter for the rear, because you're not changing the rotor size

Since you've only just noticed it, it must still be rolling OK! You could install the cushcore and keep going, you might get away with it for quite a long time. Or it might fail you in the middle of a ride, miles from the car. Unfortunately, those wheels have a reputation for being made of...

I doubt you'll be able to fit a 38t! Not enough clearance on the chainstay

Nothing at all wrong with a KMC 10-speed chain, as long as you do actually have a 10-speed cassette ;)

It's quite possible you will need to change the connectors , but in terms of contamination/ damage to seals you are fine to use the old hoses, because both Tektro & Shimano use mineral oil. You'll flush out the old oil with your first bleed anyway. If, on the other hand, you were swapping...

The lubricant that comes with a new chain is really just a thick packing grease to keep the chain in good condition. It's going to attract dirt and stop your lube from penetrating into the pins and rollers, so it's best to clean it all off to begin with. I would use a degreaser and then hot...

AFAIK Tektro uses mineral oil, same as Shimano. So no need to change the brake lines if swapping over to Shimano.

Yes they are expensive, overpriced perhaps, but why not spend money on something you enjoy, makes you happy, and is fun? We are all on this earth just the once, after all

Wow. I can't believe this attitude! I wish people like this would realise, it's all about fun!

Hard to believe the arrogance of some people, what did it matter to him or anyone if you have an eeb?

I run Hopes, love them. I think they are still a powerful brake, its just that they are designed to have lots of modulation, so it may be towards the end of the lever stroke that they fully bite. It's all in how you set them up. If they're bled properly, there's plenty of adjustment for bite...

Yes, not hard to drop the motor. Undo the chain. Remove the skid plate. 6 motor bolts (torx). Unplug the wiring. Motor out! I use loctite red on the motor bolts for reassembly. If the actuator of your OneUp is rotatable, that should fix any clearance issues you may have. I've been toying with...

Doesn't it calculate speed by wheel revolutions? Hence the magnet? So a bike that came as 29er is calibrated to that wheel size? Because a 27.5 at the same revolutions is a slower speed? Unless you get a plus tyre that brings the overall circumference to pretty much a 29er?

Ah, makes sense!

Bosch needs to create a decent app whereby the rider can change those settings, instead of taking it to a shop. I think you can do that with the Speshy app?

Again, the forces exerted on the trails are far in excess of those in the workstand. For a long seated climb, the post is at full extension and you are perched on the front of the saddle. A whole lotta human = a whole lotta force.

No. On the trails, the post must withstand forces from all directions, with a much heavier weight than what a bike weighs. It is plenty strong enough to withstand the weight of an e-MTB in the workstand, even if your bike is at the heavier end

Your new stand does sound like a great idea. Limitations working around the motor covers doesn't sound like too much of an issue, I've always had the bike upside down when removing the motor. I agree that it's best not to clamp even an alloy frame. As for the rotational force acting on the...

Yes, and the video mentions this as being one of the essential caveats, as well as having a clean stanchion and clean jaws. I mentioned this in my post as well. The video proves, mathematically and by measurement, that any dropper post is perfectly able to withstand the forces exerted on it by...

Too late for that mate, I've already had the motor out several times, and I adjusted the battery mounts as per the RIB alignment pdf to make sure my battery didn't fly out while riding. If that's my warranty gone (which I strongly doubt) then so be it :D