What did you do to your EBike this week?
- Thread starter Mik3F
- Start date
. 
I had a lurcher once.
Hey, we're on the same factory team now. See you in Bielsko-Biala.
I took my old bikes Gen 2 Bosch motor too bits so I could fit a different electric motor to it as the one in now is very noisy.
And now it doesn't work with any assistance, although everything seems to be working and no error codes.
That'll teach me
And now it doesn't work with any assistance, although everything seems to be working and no error codes.
That'll teach me
There could be another option now.Stupid-expensive ... and a bit more!
I havenāt worked out the pros and cons yet. Perhaps more feedback will follow.
I fitted the Reverb AXS 170mm to my medium Rail. The price was crazy $$$.
This may be an economical option for the Fuel EXE. I can keep the existing 170mm Bontrager dropper. Iām not sure of the price yet but it is a Canadian product. It seems to fit a few different models of droppers.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
During a recent ride I bottomed out my Fox 38 fork. So I decided to add back one of the tokens that I had removed earlier.
Easy job, made possible by the use of a 32mm 1/2" square drive socket that I bought when I got the fork. Sockets normally have a chamfer on the inside to avoid hitting a fillet on some bolt heads. But that reduces the amount of material in contact with the very shallow faces on the nut that needs to be removed from the fork. Use of a socket with a chamfer has a high risk of rounding off the aluminium flats on the nut.
Special chamfer-free sockets cost a lot of money. I bought mine for a few pounds and ground off the chamfer. It took me a few mins to remove the material and a few more to tidy it up by rubbing the socket over a whetstone in a figure of eight pattern. I removed the sharp inside edge with a small file.
Easy job, made possible by the use of a 32mm 1/2" square drive socket that I bought when I got the fork. Sockets normally have a chamfer on the inside to avoid hitting a fillet on some bolt heads. But that reduces the amount of material in contact with the very shallow faces on the nut that needs to be removed from the fork. Use of a socket with a chamfer has a high risk of rounding off the aluminium flats on the nut.
Special chamfer-free sockets cost a lot of money. I bought mine for a few pounds and ground off the chamfer. It took me a few mins to remove the material and a few more to tidy it up by rubbing the socket over a whetstone in a figure of eight pattern. I removed the sharp inside edge with a small file.
Tyjay
Active member
I used something like this https://epicbleedsolutions.com/prod...GaE1XCGjDpMCsjPfpw4Ly_fjFlJnTkQ7aQCKC3uQkEuJr
lost it and bought a chamfer less one socket
now have Rockshox so donāt have that problem
but there incase I ever change fork
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
A great idea, but still a lot more expensive than a socket. What I found when I did mine yesterday was that the various cables get in the way, so the ability to use my ratchet drive made the job very easy. The thick handle also helped apply the pressure. Not sure why they need such a high torque, it must be to get an air tight seal. I know that because I didn't tighten up enough the first time I did a token adjust and the fork slowly went down over the weeks. Why not use an O ring to get a good seal.
Since the air value is lined up with the XXā¦I think youāll be ok
. I wonāt say a word.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
But it's not!Since the air value is lined up with the XXā¦I think youāll be ok
Iād give him a break ā¦I can see some effort there in trying to please the Tire Gods. Hopefully he gets better in time
.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
He has either X to aim or at or in between. That is 3 places to hit and he got the A. No break from me.Iād give him a break ā¦I can see some effort there in trying to please the Tire Gods. Hopefully he gets better in time
Maybe he panicked ā¦after all he had to sneak his wheel into the shower.He has either X to aim or at or in between. That is 3 places to hit and he got the A. No break from me.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
Wear your specs next time you fit a tyre.
If your bike parts get banned from the shower ā¦the dishwasher will hold a lot of stuff. ie; helmet, gloves, shoes, motor, etc.
I'm in enough trouble as it is for washing my dirty workshop gloves. I reckon comandeering the dishwasher would tip her over the edge & me out the door.If your bike parts get banned from the shower ā¦the dishwasher will hold a lot of stuff. ie; helmet, gloves, shoes, motor, etc.
CarolinaCrawler
Active member
Since the air value is lined up with the XXā¦I think youāll be ok
The crazy thing about Maxxis is if he flips the wheel over its probably lined up. I've been super careful to get the valve PERFECTLY in the middle of the Maxxis logo and be so proud. Mount the wheel on the bike, push it in the garage to stare at it only to see its off! The stupid logos are off one side to the other!
I gave up being so careful. Its like washing a damn bike. I'll take the wheels off and scrub everything super detailed. Then the bike dries and I find dirt. I give up!
Tyjay
Active member
New rotors and calipers mounts fitted
now to bed them in š«£ last time took about a 2hr ride and was golden
now to bed them in š«£ last time took about a 2hr ride and was golden
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
Until Maxxis target their customer's likes and dislikes and get their quality control correct, then there is only one correct side! That is the one with the mech and the chain ring, ie the right side.
So, @RustyMTB is still in error!
So much tire drama in here ā¦and I like it.
Has anyone tried the 3- tube technique?
Has anyone tried the 3- tube technique?
Nah, it didn't. Here's the thing though, I've run that bike with the factory Raceface AR30 wheels from new & always had a hard time with tubeless. The routine has been to use a tube to seat tyres, remove the tube & try to blow the one unseated side onto the bead with soapy water & it's often taken several goes to get tyres to seat.
This wheel, I just tried my luck & it seated both sides first go. Might have to rethink my tubeless hate, redirect it to Raceface.
When Iām installing a new tire, in my bike cave, I have the luxury of a shop compressor (150psi). A fast blast of air through an open valve usually sets both beads (pop-pop). Some floor pumps can do this also ā¦but sometimes not long enough.
When tubeless automotive tires came out we sometimes had to strap and pinch the circumference of the tire or place a donut ring along the edge of the tire bead. As the tire inflated, the donut-ring would be pushed out. Soapy water helped.
I havenāt seen a 29ā or 27.5ā donut ring. I donāt know if it would help or even work?
I'd kill for a compressor but can't justify one. Instead, I use one of those pump up weed sprayers with the wand removed & a SRAM bleeding edge clip on the tubing. Pump that thing up until the blow off valve gets involved, open the clip & dump the wind into the tyre.
It's a bodge but not a terrible one, just a margnally upscale version of the Coke bottle thing.
It's a bodge but not a terrible one, just a margnally upscale version of the Coke bottle thing.
I kept my Dewalt pancake compressor also but that just sits in a lower cabinet shelf. Donāt use it much anymore.
But if I was limited for space I would setup the pancake compressor. 120psi and very portable. A blast of compressed is easier than a broom or brush also.
steve_sordy
Wedding Crasher
Because of the risk of rounding off the flats, I do not take the torque up to the recommended 40Nm. (40Nm FFS!)
Instead, I take it to what feels right. However, I know from previous experience that sometimes this is not tight enough and the air pressure will slowly bleed away. This is what happened to me this time and I kept having to top up the pressure on my last ride. Today, I gave the nut an extra squeeze and that should do the job.
