Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

[Fx1]

I don't know how they think 2.3 tyres are acceptable. They ride hard and less grip then 2.6. I'm guessing the next SL will magically feature 2.6 standard and claim holy grail status

They have done this on the 2020 Stumpjumper and Levo too. Both bikes have 2.3 rear, but they both feature a 2.6 front. I’ve ordered a DHF 2.5 and a DHR 2.3 to see how they go.

They change stuff all the time just to sell the next version of bike.

I dont get the logic of slim rear wheel. Ebikes power goes through that slim wheel so there is less traction. When I got rid of 2.3 on my enduro the bike was way better. More grip and better rolling and pedaling.

The pessimist in me says they do this to improve the range of the 500wh battery because that is what gets tested and not the grip of the tyres. Keeping the rolling mass down puts less strain on the motor and battery.

 

[p3eps]

The pessimist in me says they do this to improve the range of the 500wh battery because that is what gets tested and not the grip of the tyres. Keeping the rolling mass down puts less strain on the motor and battery.

If that’s the case, then why change the Stumpjumper? Just so the Levo doesn’t look out of place?

 

[SquireRides]

I don't know how they think 2.3 tyres are acceptable. They ride hard and less grip then 2.6. I'm guessing the next SL will magically feature 2.6 standard and claim holy grail status

Had an interesting conversation last year at the bespoke bike show with the bloke who runs Starling Cycles (Starling Cycles. Handmade Steel Bikes. - Starling Cycles). He said his research showed 2.3-2.35 inch was the sweet spot for trail/enduro use. Anything more was unnecessary weight and, worse, undamped suspension. He has way more experience of designing bikes than me... so I'm taking his word for it.

I've ridden my hardtail on 2.6 and 2.8 and it's fun. But I certainly don't see 'plus' tyres as being the best all round...

 

[jemen]

Had an interesting conversation last year at the bespoke bike show with the bloke who runs Starling Cycles (Starling Cycles. Handmade Steel Bikes. - Starling Cycles). He said his research showed 2.3-2.35 inch was the sweet spot for trail/enduro use. Anything more was unnecessary weight and, worse, undamped suspension. He has way more experience of designing bikes than me... so I'm taking his word for it.

I've ridden my hardtail on 2.6 and 2.8 and it's fun. But I certainly don't see 'plus' tyres as being the best all round...

I can see that too. 2.3 are way enough.

 

[Fx1]

I don't know how they think 2.3 tyres are acceptable. They ride hard and less grip then 2.6. I'm guessing the next SL will magically feature 2.6 standard and claim holy grail status

Had an interesting conversation last year at the bespoke bike show with the bloke who runs Starling Cycles (Starling Cycles. Handmade Steel Bikes. - Starling Cycles). He said his research showed 2.3-2.35 inch was the sweet spot for trail/enduro use. Anything more was unnecessary weight and, worse, undamped suspension. He has way more experience of designing bikes than me... so I'm taking his word for it.

I've ridden my hardtail on 2.6 and 2.8 and it's fun. But I certainly don't see 'plus' tyres as being the best all round...

Its 2.3 because it's a 29er and has nothing to do with the claim 2.3 is best.

I'd much rather have 27.5 and 2.6 tyres any day of the week.

Far more benefits to the average rider than 2.3.

 

[ImSundee]

I posted the results earlier, on 30mm rims 2.3 -> 2.6 is 5mm. I dont think its that much of a differance. And tbh, a 2.3 on a 30mm rim is pretty wide imho, and enough for me.

 

[Fx1]

I posted the results earlier, on 30mm rims 2.3 -> 2.6 is 5mm. I dont think its that much of a differance. And tbh, a 2.3 on a 30mm rim is pretty wide imho, and enough for me.

Depends on manufacturer. You cant say it's just 5mm either. It's the contact patch and lower psi that makes the difference. Also you don't measure a circle in width. It's a larger circumference and surface area connecting with the dirt.

Enduro grid casing in 2.3" sucks. No sidewall flex and no grip in corners on harder surfaces. Was also heavier than 2.6" trail casing.

 

[ImSundee]

Depends on manufacturer. You cant say it's just 5mm either. It's the contact patch and lower psi that makes the difference. Also you don't measure a circle in width. It's a larger circumference and surface area connecting with the dirt.

Enduro grid casing in 2.3" sucks. No sidewall flex and no grip in corners on harder surfaces. Was also heavier than 2.6" trail casing.

What tyres are you using? As the stock SL ones, I'm thinking the sidewalls are to soft, and I'm rolling them to much currently.

 

[Fx1]

Depends on manufacturer. You cant say it's just 5mm either. It's the contact patch and lower psi that makes the difference. Also you don't measure a circle in width. It's a larger circumference and surface area connecting with the dirt.

Enduro grid casing in 2.3" sucks. No sidewall flex and no grip in corners on harder surfaces. Was also heavier than 2.6" trail casing.

What tyres are you using? As the stock SL ones, I'm thinking the sidewalls are to soft, and I'm rolling them to much currently.

Maxxis Dhr and dhf. On the eeb 2.8 and 2.5

Also on my enduro I run 2.6 rocket rons.

I had 2.3 grid butchers on the enduro and 2.3 trail on the stumpy.

Me and the old man both run the rocket rons 2.6 on enduro and stumpy and work great.

There are probably better tyres than the rockets as at the time there were few 2.6 about

 

[Kpmnd85]

Order from LBS in US (Austin TX) on Monday late in day and it arrived on Thursday. I think the LBS could not find the part number I gave them and looked up the part from a recent conversion of a different Specialized bike with the same alloy Traverse + NX setup. I am checking with LBS on the part number they used. Worst case I return from flight Tuesday night and will send a picture of the label of the part # bag. BTW, cost was $77.

Here is the info on the free hub part to go from Shimano to XD. From my LBS...

“Here is the info straight from the site we ordered it from. The FW4558 is the vendor's number. You will also find the exact manufacturer's # in the info below.

SRAM XD Driver Freehub Body - 11/12 Speed, For 746 Rear Hub, Includes Driveside Axle End Cap
Original equipment freehub bodies to fit SRAM hubs and wheels.

• Model: Freehub Bodies
• Brand: SRAM
• QBP #: FW4558
• Manufacturer Part Number: 11.2018.026.001
• UPC: 710845763861

 

[ImSundee]

Here is the info on the free hub part to go from Shimano to XD. From my LBS...

“Here is the info straight from the site we ordered it from. The FW4558 is the vendor's number. You will also find the exact manufacturer's # in the info below.

SRAM XD Driver Freehub Body - 11/12 Speed, For 746 Rear Hub, Includes Driveside Axle End Cap
Original equipment freehub bodies to fit SRAM hubs and wheels.

• Model: Freehub Bodies
• Brand: SRAM
• QBP #: FW4558
• Manufacturer Part Number: 11.2018.026.001
• UPC: 710845763861

Found it in France, or alot of stores shipping from US

Cassette Body XD 11 Speeds for SRAM MTH 746 Hub - XXcycle - en

 

[jcmonty]

FYI -

Went tubeless today on my XL carbon comp. Some weights for the group:

All up with ~3-4 ounce of sealant in the tires (stock everything else w/ nukeproof horizon clipless pedals) = 40.94lbs / 18.57kg
W/tubes = 41.54 lbs
Eliminator Tire =1017 grams (890 grams claimed by spesh)
Butcher Tire = 1043 grams (900 grams claimed by spesh)
Tubes removed = 488 grams
Rear wheel tubeless + NX cassette + rotor = 1994 grams
Front wheel tubeless + rotor = 1149 grams

All in line with what everyone is getting. Biggest surprise was the tires, which shows you can definitely lose weight there if desired. I actually like the grid trail casing better than exo +. Tread pattern isn’t terrible for my loose over hard pack norm in Southern California.

 

[ridesantacruz]

Upgraded the brakes to XTR M9120 with XTR 200mm centerlock rotors front and rear. When going from 6 bolt hubs to centerlock hubs, I lost the ability to mount the magnet and needed to come up with a solution. Thought I would share this hack with the group on how to attach the magnet for centerlock hubs. I used a cat eye magnet speed sensor, stuck the threaded barb through a hole on the rotor and then held it in place with the spoke nut flipped over backwards. Took less then 5 minutes to install and works great. Ordered an extra speed sensor to put in my pack, just in case. This hack would work on the Levo or Levo SL.

 

[ohm13]

Its 2.3 because it's a 29er and has nothing to do with the claim 2.3 is best.

I'd much rather have 27.5 and 2.6 tyres any day of the week.

Far more benefits to the average rider than 2.3.

lets not for get inner rim diameter too (30-35mm) and inserts????

 

[ohm13]

Upgraded the brakes to XTR M9120 with XTR 200mm centerlock rotors front and rear. When going from 6 bolt hubs to centerlock hubs, I lost the ability to mount the magnet and needed to come up with a solution. Thought I would share this hack with the group on how to attach the magnet for centerlock hubs. I used a cat eye magnet speed sensor, stuck the threaded barb through a hole on the rotor and then held it in place with the spoke nut flipped over backwards. Took less then 5 minutes to install and works great. Ordered an extra speed sensor to put in my pack, just in case. This hack would work on the Levo or Levo SL.

View attachment 26960 View attachment 26961

miss shimano brakes.....

 

[Vin829]

Upgraded the brakes to XTR M9120 with XTR 200mm centerlock rotors front and rear. When going from 6 bolt hubs to centerlock hubs, I lost the ability to mount the magnet and needed to come up with a solution. Thought I would share this hack with the group on how to attach the magnet for centerlock hubs. I used a cat eye magnet speed sensor, stuck the threaded barb through a hole on the rotor and then held it in place with the spoke nut flipped over backwards. Took less then 5 minutes to install and works great. Ordered an extra speed sensor to put in my pack, just in case. This hack would work on the Levo or Levo SL.

View attachment 26960 View attachment 26961

How do you like the 9120s? I’ve been thinking of putting them on mine

 

[ridesantacruz]

The new shimano XT8120 and XTR9120 are both killer. I recommend semi-metallic pads especially for ebikes. I hate Sram stuff except the AXS seat post. Switched the bike to all shimano brakes and drivetrain.

 

[Bencab]

dude, do you even work? ; )

I work hard during the weekdays so I can ride hard during the weekend.

 

[Waynetta]

Those of you who've had time to put some decent miles on the motor, have you noticed an increase or decrease in whine from the motors gears? My Lbs said it would quite down after more miles as the gears bed in. Sounds plausible to me.

 

[Bencab]

Those of you who've had time to put some decent miles on the motor, have you noticed an increase or decrease in whine from the motors gears? My Lbs said it would quite down after more miles as the gears bed in. Sounds plausible to me.

I already have about 114 miles. However, did not pay attention to the noise motor as I enjoyed the ride so much.

 

[Waynetta]

The noise isn’t a dealbreaker for me but I’d be happier if it was a tad quieter. Still undecided on an SL or a Whyte 150. Hoping to get a demo ride on Whyte next week.

 

[Fivetones]

There’s a thread here:
SL vs Levo motor noise levels - EMTB Forums

I think it’s a complete non-issue from my admittedly short ride. First time the bike had been out too.

 

[ohm13]

I work hard during the weekdays so I can ride hard during the weekend.

I'm sure you do, just being cheeky!

 

[Kpmnd85]

Here is the info on the free hub part to go from Shimano to XD. From my LBS...

“Here is the info straight from the site we ordered it from. The FW4558 is the vendor's number. You will also find the exact manufacturer's # in the info below.

SRAM XD Driver Freehub Body - 11/12 Speed, For 746 Rear Hub, Includes Driveside Axle End Cap
Original equipment freehub bodies to fit SRAM hubs and wheels.

• Model: Freehub Bodies
• Brand: SRAM
• QBP #: FW4558
• Manufacturer Part Number: 11.2018.026.001
• UPC: 710845763861

Installed the freehub. At first I was a bit concerned with the dimensions / stack up but once assembled everything lined up. I them put XX1 cassette and chain on the bike. Net weight savings was 280 grams. Went for a 10 mile ride. All works as expected.

 

[Jeff McD]

Upgraded the brakes to XTR M9120 with XTR 200mm centerlock rotors front and rear. When going from 6 bolt hubs to centerlock hubs, I lost the ability to mount the magnet and needed to come up with a solution. Thought I would share this hack with the group on how to attach the magnet for centerlock hubs. I used a cat eye magnet speed sensor, stuck the threaded barb through a hole on the rotor and then held it in place with the spoke nut flipped over backwards. Took less then 5 minutes to install and works great. Ordered an extra speed sensor to put in my pack, just in case. This hack would work on the Levo or Levo SL.

View attachment 26960 View attachment 26961

Hey Santa Cruz just bought some center lock wheels for levo myself. How long have you been riding with this magnet set up? Do you think it is durable enough to last for years? I only ask because of the plastic threads on the spoke nut. Ordered the XTR rotors as you did. Was it a perfect fit? Did the magnet threads line up perfectly with a nut threads? I see you had to reverse the position of the spoke nut when threading it on. Any problems with lining them up? Did you use any kind of sealant on the threads to make sure it doesn't come loose? Almost looks like you used white caulk. Thanks for your help.

 

[ridesantacruz]

Hey Santa Cruz just bought some center lock wheels for levo myself. How long have you been riding with this magnet set up? Do you think it is durable enough to last for years? I only ask because of the plastic threads on the spoke nut. Ordered the XTR rotors as you did. Was it a perfect fit? Did the magnet threads line up perfectly with a nut threads? I see you had to reverse the position of the spoke nut when threading it on. Any problems with lining them up? Did you use any kind of sealant on the threads to make sure it doesn't come loose? Almost looks like you used white caulk. Thanks for your help.

Hi Jeff,
100 miles on the bike and not an issue so far. I have checked it a few times to see if the magnet had come loose and it has not. I used a pair of pliers and went a 1/4 turn past hand tight on the initial install. I have ordered a spare cat eye speed sensor and I will carry in my pack just in case. No issues lining things up, literal dropped the speed sensor in the hole and put on the nut backwards. Did a slow spin on the initial install to see if there were any clearance issues, which there were not. So far, its works well! And the Shimano brakes are awesome!

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Removed the speed controller and added wireless dropper. Super tidy.

 

[p3eps]

Removed the speed controller and added wireless dropper. Super tidy.

View attachment 27029

What did you do at the other end Rob? Did you cover up the plug with some heatshrink or tape?

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

What did you do at the other end Rob? Did you cover up the plug with some heatshrink or tape?

Yes just wrapped some electrical tape around the connector plug.

 

[jemen]

Yes just wrapped some electrical tape around the connector plug.

View attachment 27031

And keep going on ECO 30/60?