What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

[Pezzar]

I think that as long as you know what a certain pressure reading on your guage equates to on the trail then the actual accurate pressure doesn't really matter. It's just a relative thing so if 20psi on your guage feels right on the trail, it doesn't really matter whether it's actually 20psi or not. What I have found though is that the lower you go the more impact a small change has in terms of it being a percentage of the overall pressure. This is particularly apparent on my fat bike (which I run at 7psi front, 8psi rear). One psi is a big change at those low pressures whereas one psi change at 40psi is barely noticeable.

This entirely. I can't believe I've read someone say you need to see tenths of PSI to get the right pressure sorry, not being rude but as someone pointed out, temperature alone can change your pressure by a whole psi.
I can just about feel the difference of 1 psi if you are talking around the 20-26 psi mark but I don't think I'll ever feel the difference of 0.4 psi

 

[p3eps]

This entirely. I can't believe I've read someone say you need to see tenths of PSI to get the right pressure sorry, not being rude but as someone pointed out, temperature alone can change your pressure by a whole psi.
I can just about feel the difference of 1 psi if you are talking around the 20-26 psi mark but I don't think I'll ever feel the difference of 0.4 psi

No one said you need to read to tenths, but the gauge mentioned only displays full psi… not even 0.5’s.
If you’re running tyre pressures at 7 or 8psi on a fat bike, then the difference between 7 (which could be 6.5 with no decimal place) and 8 (which could be 8.4) is pretty big.
I got the AccuGage for my Stumpy 6-Fattie - which I run at about 15psi.

Accuracy and readability are 2 entirely different things. I’m quite happy to use my Topeak D2 on my car at 36psi… but don’t feel the readability is good enough for 15psi - hence why I bought the AccuGage.

 

[Pezzar]

No one said you need to read to tenths, but the gauge mentioned only displays full psi… not even 0.5’s.
If you’re running tyre pressures at 7 or 8psi on a fat bike, then the difference between 7 (which could be 6.5 with no decimal place) and 8 (which could be 8.4) is pretty big.
I got the AccuGage for my Stumpy 6-Fattie - which I run at about 15psi.

Accuracy and readability are 2 entirely different things. I’m quite happy to use my Topeak D2 on my car at 36psi… but don’t feel the readability is good enough for 15psi - hence why I bought the AccuGage.

Don't get me wrong, I've got the digital gauge from top peak, my mates tell me I'm anal about pressures but even I am ok dealing in single PSI as long as it is roughly accurate. It doesn't even matter if it isn't as long as it's consistent as once you've found your sweet spot it can read 500 psi if it wants . For the record, my on one fatty trail, set up tubeless runs beautifully on 7 psi front and 8 psi rear (Surly Nate 3.8 rr and Surly Lou 4.8 fr). If I tried to run it at even 10 psi I'm bouncing off every single trail feature.

 

[steve_sordy]

Don't get me wrong, I've got the digital gauge from top peak, my mates tell me I'm anal about pressures ............

I've been there!

 

[Pezzar]

I've been there!

My nickname is 'PSI Pez'. The sarcastic effers

 

[George_KSL]

Received the latest (second-gen) Exo+ Assegai 29x2,5 Maxxgrip. To my surprise, it was 1250 grams :- ) Almost, or the same as DD version.
The different between latest Exo+ (single thicker 60tpi ply) and former older Exo+ (single 120 TPI ply and second pseudo ply in form of SilkShield) is more than 100 grams. Despite that, the sidewill still feel Exo-ish, i.e. flimsy. The enduro-casing Kryptotal FR (Continental Assegai) which I also have, is 1200 grams and much more robust feeling.
I mean, at 1250 grams for Exo+, you might as well get 1300 grams Kryptotal DH dual-ply. It's weird how much Maxxis and Schwalbe ballooned in weight for their single-ply tyres without feeling any more supportive necessarily, perhaps just more pucture-proof.
Anyway, it rocks, but I like the look of the Kryptotal FR more. The performance seems identical though.

 

[Pezzar]

Received the latest (second-gen) Exo+ Assegai 29x2,5 Maxxgrip. To my surprise, it was 1250 grams :- ) Almost, or the same as DD version.
The different between latest Exo+ (single thicker 60tpi ply) and former older Exo+ (single 120 TPI ply and second pseudo ply in form of SilkShield) is more than 100 grams. Despite that, the sidewill still feel Exo-ish, i.e. flimsy. The enduro-casing Kryptotal FR (Continental Assegai) which I also have, is 1200 grams and much more robust feeling.
I mean, at 1250 grams for Exo+, you might as well get 1300 grams Kryptotal DH dual-ply. It's weird how much Maxxis and Schwalbe ballooned in weight for their single-ply tyres without feeling any more supportive necessarily, perhaps just more pucture-proof.
Anyway, it rocks, but I like the look of the Kryptotal FR more. The performance seems identical though.

Heard a lot of good stuff about the Kryptotal and am intrigued. I was going to go Assegai when the current Vees need replacing but they are hard to get hold of. So the Kryptotal is a front tyre, equivalent to the Assegai? What would you pair it with on the rear? (My OCD would never allow me to have a mixed manufacturer pairing)

 

[Jurassic]

Heard a lot of good stuff about the Kryptotal and am intrigued. I was going to go Assegai when the current Vees need replacing but they are hard to get hold of. So the Kryptotal is a front tyre, equivalent to the Assegai? What would you pair it with on the rear? (My OCD would never allow me to have a mixed manufacturer pairing)

I can't comment on the Kryptotal front tyre but I have a Kryptotal Enduro soft (rear version) on the back and it's very good. I have a DHF on the front and was planning to go DHR2 on the rear but I couldn't get a DD casing version anywhere.
Having mixed tyres bothers my OCD as well but as I'm from Yorkshire originally and am tight I wasn't about to buy two tyres just to get a match (I needed the rear as I'd destroyed the OEM Maxxis rear that came on my bike)!

 

[Pezzar]

I can't comment on the Kryptotal front tyre but I have a Kryptotal Enduro soft (rear version) on the back and it's very good. I have a DHF on the front and was planning to go DHR2 on the rear but I couldn't get a DD casing version anywhere.
Having mixed tyres bothers my OCD as well but as I'm from Yorkshire originally and am tight I wasn't about to buy two tyres just to get a match (I needed the rear as I'd destroyed the OEM Maxxis rear that came on my bike)!

Cheers mate, luckily the Vees seem to wear at about the same rate, I'll give the Kryptotals fr and rr a try next I think.

 

[George_KSL]

Heard a lot of good stuff about the Kryptotal and am intrigued. I was going to go Assegai when the current Vees need replacing but they are hard to get hold of. So the Kryptotal is a front tyre, equivalent to the Assegai? What would you pair it with on the rear? (My OCD would never allow me to have a mixed manufacturer pairing)

Kryptotal FR ("FRont", but can be used either) is super close to Assegai. Kryptotal FR DH Ultrasoft = Maxxis Assegai DD/DH Maxxgrip. Kryptotal FR Enduro Soft = Maxxis Assegai DD Maxxgrip/Maxterra (somewhere in-between).
Kryptotal FR has been impossible to find anywhere in soft or ultrasoft, but Assegai suddenly popped for 40 Euro on Bike24 as special price, so I bought 2 straight away..

Kryptotal RE ("REar", but can be used either) is very close to Maxxis DHR2, although perhaps tiny bit more aggressive.
RE has better breaking traction, faster rolling speed and slightly better mud shading. FR has all-around better grip. You can go FR front&rear for maximum winter traction, or both RE for maximum mud shedding and best rolling speed. Or as designers intended, FR/RE for all the benefits. It's never dramatic choice.
Neither of these tyres will have perfect durability in their softest compounds since it's only on top, for that a single-compound type of tyre like Specialized Butcher T9 will always outlast since it will always behave the same, whereas Maxxis 3C Maxxgrip will only act like Maxxgrip until it's 50perc. gone, then you're suddenly on dual-compound :- ).

Anyway, since it's winter, either one of these will make for perfect front or both tyres(my list of favourites): Kryptotal FR DH Ultrasoft, Maxxis Assegai 3C Exo+/DD Maxxgrip, Schwalbe Magic Mary Ultrasoft, Butcher T9, etc..

 

[Pezzar]

Kryptotal FR ("FRont", but can be used either) is super close to Assegai. Kryptotal FR DH Ultrasoft = Maxxis Assegai DD/DH Maxxgrip. Kryptotal FR Enduro Soft = Maxxis Assegai DD Maxxgrip/Maxterra (somewhere in-between).
Kryptotal FR has been impossible to find anywhere in soft or ultrasoft, but Assegai suddenly popped for 40 Euro on Bike24 as special price, so I bought 2 straight away..

Kryptotal RE ("REar", but can be used either) is very close to Maxxis DHR2, although perhaps tiny bit more aggressive.
RE has better breaking traction, faster rolling speed and slightly better mud shading. FR has all-around better grip. You can go FR front&rear for maximum winter traction, or both RE for maximum mud shedding and best rolling speed. Or as designers intended, FR/RE for all the benefits. It's never dramatic choice.
Neither of these tyres will have perfect durability in their softest compounds since it's only on top, for that a single-compound type of tyre like Specialized Butcher T9 will always outlast since it will always behave the same, whereas Maxxis 3C Maxxgrip will only act like Maxxgrip until it's 50perc. gone, then you're suddenly on dual-compound :- ).

Anyway, since it's winter, either one of these will make for perfect front or both tyres(my list of favourites): Kryptotal FR DH Ultrasoft, Maxxis Assegai 3C Exo+/DD Maxxgrip, Schwalbe Magic Mary Ultrasoft, Butcher T9, etc..

Very helpful that mate, thank you!

 

[thebarber]

I've just put kryptotal f trail on and rider enduro 2.4
Ordered from wiggle on Wednesday

 

[George_KSL]

Just in case, but were you aware the trail casing only exists for now in Endurance compound which is pretty hard durometer for front tyre, esp. for winter?
New Conti range is unfortunately heavily biased towards their heavier casings, with DH being the only with super-soft, and Enduro with Soft.

 

[Jurassic]

I'd prefer a sticky tyre up front but a heavier casing on the rear but that combination doesn't exist afaik. Enduro Super Soft front and DH soft rear would be my ideal. As it is my Enduro Soft rear is doing pretty well so far.

 

[George_KSL]

Well you wouldn't be able to find either DH-Supersoft or Enduro-FR Soft in 29", they have been sold out since July :- ).
Which is the reason I ride mixed with Assegai in front.

 

[irie]

So much sticky mud (chalk+clag) here on the UK South Downs that tread and rubber doesn't make any difference. Within a few minutes effectively end up with slicks which are slipperier than a slippery thing.

 

[George_KSL]

They must make those full spikes for someone :- ). I really wonder how they ride, I worry even mid-spikes would kill me in hardened berm.

 

[rzr]

So much sticky mud (chalk+clag) here on the UK South Downs that tread and rubber doesn't make any difference. Within a few minutes effectively end up with slicks which are slipperier than a slippery thing.

Magic Mary ? Shorty ?

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Am running Shorty 2.4 DD Maxxgrip Front and Rear, draggy, but amazing in the soaked muddy south west UK trails.

Also going to try the HillBilly T9 Grid Gravity Front and Rear.

Not going for speed records in the winter slop, and not using all my battery on most winter rides, so I'm not too bothered about fast rolling at the moment, would rather have as much grip as possible!

 

[irie]

Magic Mary ? Shorty ?

Can do, but the mud is currently so sticky that I might merely end up with heavier slicks. Am currently running DHR2 Exo+ front and rear. Whatdya reckon Rob?

Am running Shorty 2.4 DD Maxxgrip Front and Rear, draggy, but amazing in the soaked muddy south west UK trails.

 

[Rob Rides EMTB]

Can do, but the mud is currently so sticky that I might merely end up with heavier slicks. Am currently running DHR2 Exo+ front and rear. Whatdya reckon Rob?

Well, there's not much you can do about that, other than have some wider spacing blocks on the tyres that wont clog up as easy as something thats got tighter tread pattern blocks on it (something like a shorty / hillbilly / dedicated mud tyre will shed mud easier)

But DHR2 isnt the best choice for mud (its OK, but will clog up easier than something thats more dedicated to mud). Also, not sure the width you are runnind, but 2.4 might cut through a bit better.

 

[irie]

Well, there's not much you can do about that, other than have some wider spacing blocks on the tyres that wont clog up as easy as something thats got tighter tread pattern blocks on it (something like a shorty / hillbilly / dedicated mud tyre will shed mud easier)

But DHR2 isnt the best choice for mud (its OK, but will clog up easier than something thats more dedicated to mud). Also, not sure the width you are runnind, but 2.4 might cut through a bit better.

Thanks for the reply, running 2.4". Think anything will clog up where I was in Kingsley Vale, my rear was slipping like f**k on a couple of rooty ascents. Will go somewhere else.

 

[rpr]

I’m looking to put an aggressive MTB tire on a hub drive ebike that unfortunately has narrow rims (19mm inner width). The max recommended width tire for that rim is 2.44”. However, the ones I would prefer (Maxxis DFH & DHRII) only come in 2.3” (which I feel is too narrow for my purposss) and 2.5WT. The WT sized Maxxis tires are really for 30mm - 35mm inner width rims so that won’t work.

We ride mostly on loose gravel and dirt roads and dirt fire service roads that are rutted and in pretty bad shape. No need for downhill oriented tires, just good general purpose all around mountain/trail.

Can the experts here recommend an aggressive ~2.4” to 2.5” knobby tire like the Maxxis DHF/DHR that will work on a narrow rim?

2.6” would be better for our riding conditions but I don’t think that will work well on a 19mm inner width rim.

 

[EMTBSEAN]

My tyre combination is Maxxis Shorty on the rear and Maxxis Minion DHF both in double down max terra casings, heavy but the grip is awesome, the thing I like about the big side knobs on the DHF is when I get into a rut it will climb out easier and reduce the chance of me doing an OTB special

 

[irie]

Well, there's not much you can do about that, other than have some wider spacing blocks on the tyres that wont clog up as easy as something thats got tighter tread pattern blocks on it (something like a shorty / hillbilly / dedicated mud tyre will shed mud easier)

But DHR2 isnt the best choice for mud (its OK, but will clog up easier than something thats more dedicated to mud). Also, not sure the width you are runnind, but 2.4 might cut through a bit better.

Yesterday I took off the front DHR2 (which will be my spare rear) and bunged on an Assegai Maxxgrip DD (was silly money). To check out front grip will try that today on my favourite local downhill run, Chalkpit Lane near Chichester, as long as I don't meet too many dog walkers

As you said, could have fitted something more mud specific but can't be arsed to change tyres according to the season. Will just keep away from the very silly sticky stuff where everything becomes a slick.

Edit: Was going to ride today but with 5C at 10mph wind chill is 2C and at 20mph 0C, so instead decided to watch Poland beat France at 3pm (hopefully)

 

[steve_sordy]

I’m looking to put an aggressive MTB tire on a hub drive ebike that unfortunately has narrow rims (19mm inner width). The max recommended width tire for that rim is 2.44”. However, the ones I would prefer (Maxxis DFH & DHRII) only come in 2.3” (which I feel is too narrow for my purposss) and 2.5WT. The WT sized Maxxis tires are really for 30mm - 35mm inner width rims so that won’t work.

We ride mostly on loose gravel and dirt roads and dirt fire service roads that are rutted and in pretty bad shape. No need for downhill oriented tires, just good general purpose all around mountain/trail.

Can the experts here recommend an aggressive ~2.4” to 2.5” knobby tire like the Maxxis DHF/DHR that will work on a narrow rim?

2.6” would be better for our riding conditions but I don’t think that will work well on a 19mm inner width rim.

I have tried a 2.4" tyre on a 19mm rim and it rolled off on the first flat corner. So, if you are going to fit anything that width or wider, then increase the tyre pressure.

Are you certain that wide tyres are really necessary? They weren't even available until relatively recently and yet riders did rather well despite that. I rode all over the place on my 27.5x2.2" wide Continental Trail Kings, 22psi front and 24psi rear, riding weight 90kg.

 

[PennywiseTheDancingClown]

DD Assegai on the front
DD Aggressor on the rear

Very happy with the combo, which came stock on my bike... however I may switch the rear out to a minion DHR2 when the time comes. I don't care about rolling resistance, only grip.

 

[Ronan1001]

I have tried a 2.4" tyre on a 19mm rim and it rolled off on the first flat corner. So, if you are going to fit anything that width or wider, then increase the tyre pressure.

Are you certain that wide tyres are really necessary? They weren't even available until relatively recently and yet riders did rather well despite that. I rode all over the place on my 27.5x2.2" wide Continental Trail Kings, 22psi front and 24psi rear, riding weight 90kg.

I inflate the tires to the point where it's very difficult to squeeze with my fingers. That's about three atmospheres. Sometimes more. Well inflated tires are easier to ride with!

 

[steve_sordy]

I inflate the tires to the point where it's very difficult to squeeze with my fingers. That's about three atmospheres. Sometimes more. Well inflated tires are easier to ride with!

My answer was aimed at @rpr, so I don't know what riding conditions, tyre size or anything about your ride

By "easier to ride with", do you mean easier to pedal?

45psi is a very high pressure in my opinion and would give me all sorts of problems. It would give me a very hard ride and considerably less grip. When I first had a go at mtb I was riding with pressures like that and I just could not understand how much faster everyone else was than me. I was being shaken to bits as it was. I asked all sorts of questions about why they were faster, was it tyre width, suspension, technique and so forth. Every rider I asked gave similar answers, but not one asked what my tyre pressures were. Then I saw a PinkBike Tech Tuesday video on finding your ideal tyre pressure and it was a proper lightbulb moment. (If I can find it, I'll post a link at the end).

If the trail surface was smooth or even was tarmac, then I could sign onto high pressures like that. But as soon as the trail surface gets rough, high tyre pressures are counter-productive. The wheel bounces off the rocks and roots instead of conforming to them and flowing smoothly over them. With lower pressures not only is the ride smoother, but faster and less effort. Tyres used to be the only suspension (after arms and legs), so it was vital to get the pressure correct for the trail surface.

Found it! (Bear in mind this is from nearly 12 years ago, but the general advice is still valid). Read the words and watch the video.

Tech Tuesday - Find Your Tire Pressure Sweet Spot - Pinkbike

www.pinkbike.com

 

[rpr]

I just mounted 2.4” Maxxis DHR2’s on my 19mm inner width rims (front and rear), which is just within the WTB (and I believe the ETRTO) recommendations. I went with the Double Down versions, very thick sidewalls. The profile of the tire on the rim looks fine, the sidewalls are not bulging and the top is not overly rounded. Im thinking the thick sidewalls helped me here. They also mounted much easier than I thought they would. Got them on without any tire levers.

We don’t do any extreme riding but the gravel roads and dirt forest service roads in our area are pretty rough so I’ll let you guys know if I experience any issues.