What tyres? The Ultimate Tyre Thread

[InRustWeTrust]

I would never know if my maxxis tires were defective as my rims are just as warped and wobble .

I have heard that Maxxis has decided that 5% of the tires can be out of tolerance during quality control.
They are sold so much that someone will find the bad ones.

Hope it's only a rumor.

If it's true, I don't think it will affect maxxis very much as they sell such huge amounts of tires, so a few customers per year will complain about tires and advertise and get new tires, it won't affect them very much financially.

apparently maxxis has one Design tolerances that are pretty tight, but factory tolerances may not match design tolerances.

 

[Pezzar]

How does that wobble affect ride quality? Is it detrimental or just disconcerting?

Can only speak for myself, I'm not gnarly or aggressive, don't do massive jumps just normal red and some black features and on the trails I don't notice it at all. On the ride from my house to the trails though, along tarmac paths, it's horrible and I can feel it

 

[Jurassic]

Just getting away from wobbly tyres for a minute, I had my first ride today with a 2.4 Conti Kryptotal Enduro soft rear tyre on and was very impressed. It was to replace the OEM High Roller 2 on my Giant Reign which was pretty crap. My usual go to is a DHR2 on the rear (original I know) but I couldn't find a DD/Maxxterra so decided to try the Conti as an alternative. The sidewalls are definitely thinner than a DD casing but feel more plasticky compared to the rubbery Maxxis sidewalls. The grip felt great today (both drive and braking) but it wasn't particularly boggy where I was riding (Glentress, off and on piste). I ran the tyre a bit harder than usual at 27.5psi as I didn't have an insert in it but it felt great.
Just adding an update after testing in full on Scottish swamp conditions today (the next day) and I'm still really impressed with the Kryptotal. I rode up stuff today that I couldn't get up on the OEM tyre and braking grip was equally impressive. It did break away a couple of times on slimy cambered traverses but no more than I'd expect in those circumstances.

 

[KnollyBro]

Can only speak for myself, I'm not gnarly or aggressive, don't do massive jumps just normal red and some black features and on the trails I don't notice it at all. On the ride from my house to the trails though, along tarmac paths, it's horrible and I can feel it

Which tire was that? I only seem to have problems with the Assagai DD tires. I have only used Maxxis DHF 3C DH, DHR 3C DH and DD, EXO and EXO+ tires which have no wobble.

 

[Jurassic]

Which tire was that? I only seem to have problems with the Assagai DD tires. I have only used Maxxis DHF 3C DH, DHR 3C DH and DD, EXO and EXO+ tires which have no wobble.

I think there was an issue with a batch of Assagais. My LBS had to return all theirs to the distributor as they were unsaleable but they got replacements that were okay (even with inserts in).
Fwiw, I've just put a Tannus tubeless liner in my Kryptotal rear and was dreading getting a wobble after reading all the comments on here but it's fine. I did already have sealant in the tyre so maybe that helped the insert slip into place or maybe it's just down to luck.

 

[KnollyBro]

Yea last years assigais had a bad series. If a bike shop sells them take it to them on the wheel and likely they’ll replace it on the spot.

I guess I am buying last year's stock from the Online dealer. I have sent them an email sharing my disappointment.

 

[Mcharza]

Thanks. Dissector for rear only then? What fast rolling tyre would match it on the front?

Because I have been lazy, I've kept the Dissector in front as well.
Rode the rest of the season in Bike Parks and normal enduro trails. Stones and roots.

The Dissector holds up surprisingly well in the bike park as well, and hasn't caused any surprises.
It's still not my normal front tire, but surprisingly good.
My Dissector is MaxTerra compound.

 

[turbolego]

So I just want to return to this thread and point out that after all my Qs regarding tires with lower rolling resistance, I did buy the Specialized Ground Control Grid that @Chrysaor recommended, and it made so much difference that it freaked me out on the downhill. I felt like I was going too fast even with the bike off, and had far less braking traction, as well. Which I know is what is expected, except that I didn't really know what that would feel like. Part of it is that I'm just coming back from a quasi-OTB hand fracture / wrist injury.

On the plus side, derestricted, I hit 33 mph on pavement. However speed's really not my thing, I just figured it would lead to less battery use at a given pace.

 

[thebarber]

Just getting away from wobbly tyres for a minute, I had my first ride today with a 2.4 Conti Kryptotal Enduro soft rear tyre on and was very impressed. It was to replace the OEM High Roller 2 on my Giant Reign which was pretty crap. My usual go to is a DHR2 on the rear (original I know) but I couldn't find a DD/Maxxterra so decided to try the Conti as an alternative. The sidewalls are definitely thinner than a DD casing but feel more plasticky compared to the rubbery Maxxis sidewalls. The grip felt great today (both drive and braking) but it wasn't particularly boggy where I was riding (Glentress, off and on piste). I ran the tyre a bit harder than usual at 27.5psi as I didn't have an insert in it but it felt great.
Just adding an update after testing in full on Scottish swamp conditions today (the next day) and I'm still really impressed with the Kryptotal. I rode up stuff today that I couldn't get up on the OEM tyre and braking grip was equally impressive. It did break away a couple of times on slimy cambered traverses but no more than I'd expect in those circumstances.

The only time I broke away from maxxis was for michy e wilds which were good but it was all about price.
I'll keep an eye out for these dropping to my acceptable price range £45 ish
Running a HR2 DD atm just because it was £35

 

[Bndit]

FYI, if someone is looking for Magic Mary's, Commencal have really good stock, tires are cheap (55€) but delivery ain't, at least to Finland. Just ordered 29"x2.4" Super Gravity soft and Ultra soft.

 

[Pezzar]

Which tire was that? I only seem to have problems with the Assagai DD tires. I have only used Maxxis DHF 3C DH, DHR 3C DH and DD, EXO and EXO+ tires which have no wobble.

The Vee tyre company's crown gem rear and holo attack front

 

[Sander23]

Questions to the tire experts on here.
I run nobby nics speedgrip 29x2.6 front and rear and run them at 2 bar/29psi ( I chose this tire because I ride abit of everything, commute to trails, xc routes, sometimes enduro
On my ride yesterday I crashed 2 times. Was pretty muddy and lots of leafs

1 time going uphill, wasn't a very long climb but it was a pretty steep one. Lost traction on the rear where the wheel kept spinning and I fall down the hill

2nd time was on the downhill where it was pretty small and i wasnt going fast, front tire lost traction where I fall down the hill in the bushes.

Probable my technique plays a part to, but what could be the issue here? Is it being the tire or the tire pressure?

What tire or tire pressure would you recommend in my situation? Bike weighs 24 kg rider 95kg

 

[mcboab]

Questions to the tire experts on here.
I run nobby nics speedgrip 29x2.6 front and rear and run them at 2 bar/29psi ( I chose this tire because I ride abit of everything, commute to trails, xc routes, sometimes enduro
On my ride yesterday I crashed 2 times. Was pretty muddy and lots of leafs

1 time going uphill, wasn't a very long climb but it was a pretty steep one. Lost traction on the rear where the wheel kept spinning and I fall down the hill

2nd time was on the downhill where it was pretty small and i wasnt going fast, front tire lost traction where I fall down the hill in the bushes.

Probable my technique plays a part to, but what could be the issue here? Is it being the tire or the tire pressure?

What tire or tire pressure would you recommend in my situation? Bike weighs 24 kg rider 95kg

Leaves and mud make for a very slippy surface, so Nobby Nics in speedgrip proably arent the best front tyre for that and something a lot stickier and nobbier (like a Maxxis Shorty/ Magic Mary -in soft) would be needed. I found Nobby Nics (not soft cant recall what compound) quite slippy on the rear of my Hardtail even in a dry summer so cant imagine they grip much up hill in wet /mud/leaves, though not much will either (see earlier re shorty/mm) so you just have either 1) expect to slide (a lot) on current tyres or 2) swap to more mud orientated when its claggy/slippery . All just IMO & watching Euro cyclecross this am having to slide/ride about on far less tread/width makes me realise its also a lot of skill/balance and bottle, that said they were Pro's and us mere mortals need all the help we can get.

 

[Pezzar]

Questions to the tire experts on here.
I run nobby nics speedgrip 29x2.6 front and rear and run them at 2 bar/29psi ( I chose this tire because I ride abit of everything, commute to trails, xc routes, sometimes enduro
On my ride yesterday I crashed 2 times. Was pretty muddy and lots of leafs

1 time going uphill, wasn't a very long climb but it was a pretty steep one. Lost traction on the rear where the wheel kept spinning and I fall down the hill

2nd time was on the downhill where it was pretty small and i wasnt going fast, front tire lost traction where I fall down the hill in the bushes.

Probable my technique plays a part to, but what could be the issue here? Is it being the tire or the tire pressure?

What tire or tire pressure would you recommend in my situation? Bike weighs 24 kg rider 95kg

You are the same weight as me (rider and bike).
Obviously, tyres will make a massive difference but on mine I'm running 24psi rear and 22 front (tubeless).
Had no issues, grip is excellent. Hope that helps, does sound to me you are running too high psi.

 

[Pezzar]

Leaves and mud make for a very slippy surface, so Nobby Nics in speedgrip proably arent the best front tyre for that and something a lot stickier and nobbier (like a Maxxis Shorty/ Magic Mary -in soft) would be needed. I found Nobby Nics (not soft cant recall what compound) quite slippy on the rear of my Hardtail even in a dry summer so cant imagine they grip much up hill in wet /mud/leaves, though not much will either (see earlier re shorty/mm) so you just have either 1) expect to slide (a lot) on current tyres or 2) swap to more mud orientated when its claggy/slippery . All just IMO & watching Euro cyclecross this am having to slide/ride about on far less tread/width makes me realise its also a lot of skill/balance and bottle, that said they were Pro's and us mere mortals need all the help we can get.

Yeah I had Nobby NICs on an old XC bike I had. Very fast rolling but near useless in the wet.

 

[Bndit]

I` ve been riding whole season with Contis der barons, 2.4`s. On my Turbo Levo. They can handle everything, traction is amazing. They are trail casing and nowdays I have rimpacts for the low pressures. On my Status which I use only for the bike parks I had MM soft super trail 2.4 in front and BB soft Super Gravity 2.4” in back. Those are also awsome tires. Just changed the front to super gravity to get more damping and ultra soft to see if it offers more traction in wet. Interested to see how much better the damping is and how much worse is the rolling resistance. So far these have been do it everything in every weather tires and because Baron`s are discontinued I`ll use MM/BB in future, probably Super Gravity casing and no inserts…and 2`4” wide.

 

[Sander23]

You are the same weight as me (rider and bike).
Obviously, tyres will make a massive difference but on mine I'm running 24psi rear and 22 front (tubeless).
Had no issues, grip is excellent. Hope that helps, does sound to me you are running too high psi.

Isnt that tire pressure extremely low?

 

[Sander23]

Leaves and mud make for a very slippy surface, so Nobby Nics in speedgrip proably arent the best front tyre for that and something a lot stickier and nobbier (like a Maxxis Shorty/ Magic Mary -in soft) would be needed. I found Nobby Nics (not soft cant recall what compound) quite slippy on the rear of my Hardtail even in a dry summer so cant imagine they grip much up hill in wet /mud/leaves, though not much will either (see earlier re shorty/mm) so you just have either 1) expect to slide (a lot) on current tyres or 2) swap to more mud orientated when its claggy/slippery . All just IMO & watching Euro cyclecross this am having to slide/ride about on far less tread/width makes me realise its also a lot of skill/balance and bottle, that said they were Pro's and us mere mortals need all the help we can get.

Yea I've thought of those tires but the thing is I have to ride 30-40 km single trip to my trails. So I bet those tires ride like a tractor

 

[mcboab]

Yea I've thought of those tires but the thing is I have to ride 30-40 km single trip to my trails. So I bet those tires ride like a tractor

Think of the calories burned! That’s the choice you have make, compromise the trail or the ride elsewhere. For me it’s set up for the trail 1st as I’ll just pay the “price“ elsewhere, & that isnt as bad as analog with thick knob heavy casing tyres, though may impact battery drain , maybe marginally given your still dragging about 50lbs of e-bike regardless of tyres. i got out yesterday in my local woods , thick with leaves ,hard to see the trails and sometimes ankle deep in gloop, wouldnt have ridden far on nobby nic but my MM /kryptotal combo kept me upright and the hike a bike to a minimum (some steep now very soft up hill trails required pushing)

 

[Jurassic]

Wow, there's some high pressures being talked about here! I weigh 85kg and usually run 20 psi front 25 rear in my ebike. I'll bump these up by 5 psi if I'm riding a route involving a lot of road or for very rocky trails but there's no way I'm going higher than 30 rear, 25 front. That's on 2.5 DHF front, 2.4 Kryptotal rear (tubeless with an insert in the rear). I only run 30/30 on my gravel bike with 700c X 42 Panaracer Gravel Kings! Lower pressures don't just improve grip, they also improve ride quality massively as well.

 

[Pezzar]

Your grip won’t be excellent on the leaves covering trails in the fall unless you’re using metal spikes! Leaves on Trail are decomposing and when you pick them up in late fall they have a slimy feel to them. This is similar to riding on ice. Even snow has traction. Wet leaves are what @Zimmerframe spends his fall raking off trails because it’s a sure way for people to get hurt. Unless you’re training to race on ice then wet leaves are awesome.

I ride regularly on trails with leaf cover, I don't find it any more slippy than normal conditions tbh, the pressures I run (with inserts) and the aggressive tread on my tyres cope really well with that. Nobby NICs are a summer only tyre imo, anything moist and they are pretty useless.

 

[Pezzar]

Isnt that tire pressure extremely low?

On some tyres maybe, but with inserts, tubeless and these Vee tyres having VERY stiff sidewalls it's great

 

[Sander23]

I will try lowering the pressure by a good bit firts. If that doesn't work I'll go get new tires

 

[Pezzar]

I will try lowering the pressure by a good bit firts. If that doesn't work I'll go get new tires

Just go a couple of psi at a time, that's how I did it, eventually found the sweet spot for me. Good luck

 

[p3eps]

Wow, there's some high pressures being talked about here! I weigh 85kg and usually run 20 psi front 25 rear in my ebike. I'll bump these up by 5 psi if I'm riding a route involving a lot of road or for very rocky trails but there's no way I'm going higher than 30 rear, 25 front. That's on 2.5 DHF front, 2.4 Kryptotal rear (tubeless with an insert in the rear). I only run 30/30 on my gravel bike with 700c X 42 Panaracer Gravel Kings! Lower pressures don't just improve grip, they also improve ride quality massively as well.

I'm not far off the same as you...
85kg on a Levo SL... and I run somewhere between 18-21 on the front and 21-25 on the rear depending on what I'm riding.
Michelin Wild F & R (29x2.4) with no inserts.

I have broken ribs at the moment and went for a gentle ride round some roads / cycle paths at the weekend... so was up at 30psi to help the tyres roll. The downside was every bump felt much more obvious... which wasn't so good for my ribs!

 

[steve_sordy]

Isnt that tire pressure extremely low?

Not at all. I have a similar weight and a 29x2.5 on the front (3C Assegai) at 17psi and a 27.5x2.6 on the rear (3C WTB Trail Boss) at 20psi. Your problem could be the tyre tread or the compound. "Speedgrip" implies to me that they are a hard compound. I know nothing about the Nobby Nic so take that into account.

I can clearly remember many years ago failing to get up a wet pebbly climb. My rear tyre kept spinning out, but my mate just went straight up without any spin out at all. He asked me what tyres and pressure I was on. 26x2.35 Maxxis Igniter front and rear (tubeless), both about 30psi. He advised me to drop to 20psi. He offered to pump them back up for me if it didn't work! I went straight up that loose pebble climb as if I had 4-wheel drive, remarkable! I stayed with those pressures for the rest of the ride (in the steep and rocky Peak District) and I had zero issues. I have been a fan of lower tyre pressures ever since.

Why not experiment with your tyre pressures? It is cost free. Do not assume that both tyres have to be the same pressure, front and rear tyres have to do different jobs and have different stresses, so it is normal to have different pressure in them.
I recommend that you use a digital tyre pressure gauge like the Topeak Smart Head D2 (about £20). A change of 1psi can make the difference. Once you have the perfect pressure, why not ensure that you always have it?

That same mate later recommended that I change my tyres to ones with a softer compound (Continental Trail Kings with the black chilli compound - grippy). I stuck with that make and type of tyre for years. I'd have them on my emtb, but I can't get the sizes I want.

Edit: PS, the ride quality is better with lower pressure tyres and the bike rolls more easily over small rocks and roots. I was floating down a gravity assisted rooty trail and my riding buddy had to pedal to keep up with me!

 

[p3eps]

Not at all. I have a similar weight and a 29x2.5 on the front (3C Assegai) at 17psi and a 27.5x2.6 on the rear (3C WTB Trail Boss) at 20psi. Your problem could be the tyre tread or the compound. "Speedgrip" implies to me that they are a hard compound. I know nothing about the Nobby Nic so take that into account.

I can clearly remember many years ago failing to get up a wet pebbly climb. My rear tyre kept spinning out, but my mate just went straight up without any spin out at all. He asked me what tyres and pressure I was on. 26x2.35 Maxxis Igniter front and rear (tubeless), both about 30psi. He advised me to drop to 20psi. He offered to pump them back up for me if it didn't work! I went straight up that loose pebble climb as if I had 4-wheel drive, remarkable! I stayed with those pressures for the rest of the ride (in the steep and rocky Peak District) and I had zero issues. I have been a fan of lower tyre pressures ever since.

Why not experiment with your tyre pressures? It is cost free. Do not assume that both tyres have to be the same pressure, front and rear tyres have to do different jobs and have different stresses, so it is normal to have different pressure in them.
I recommend that you use a digital tyre pressure gauge like the Topeak Smart Head D2 (about £20). A change of 1psi can make the difference. Once you have the perfect pressure, why not ensure that you always have it?

That same mate later recommended that I change my tyres to ones with a softer compound (Continental Trail Kings with the black chilli compound - grippy). I stuck with that make and type of tyre for years. I'd have them on my emtb, but I can't get the sizes I want.

I agree with all above… however I wouldn’t recommend the Topeak D2 as it doesn’t show any decimal places when in PSI. This means that when you’re looking for 20, you could be at 19.5 or 20.4!
I use a AccuGage analog gauge (30psi) which I find much more accurate.
Mine is bang on, as my family own a calibration company

 

[steve_sordy]

I agree with all above… however I wouldn’t recommend the Topeak D2 as it doesn’t show any decimal places when in PSI. This means that when you’re looking for 20, you could be at 19.5 or 20.4!
I use a AccuGage analog gauge (30psi) which I find much more accurate.
Mine is bang on, as my family own a calibration company

I deal with by inflating above the target pressure and using the bleed button and the flashing psi reading to reduce to the target pressure. That way it is always the same.
I have never tested the D2 for accuracy, but from results I am confident that it is repeatable.

So, I'm probably on 17.4 and 20.4 and not the 17 and 20 that I have in my head. As soon as the sun comes out the pressure changes anyway. I set the pressure in the garage and then went out on what became a very hot day. The ride began to feel hard so I checked the pressure and it had gone up. Resetting the psi restored the feel I was looking for.

 

[p3eps]

I deal with by inflating above the target pressure and using the bleed button and the flashing psi reading to reduce to the target pressure. That way it is always the same.
I have never tested the D2 for accuracy, but from results I am confident that it is repeatable.

So, I'm probably on 17.4 and 20.4 and not the 17 and 20 that I have in my head. As soon as the sun comes out the pressure changes anyway. I set the pressure in the garage and then went out on what became a very hot day. The ride began to feel hard so I checked the pressure and it had gone up. Resetting the psi restored the feel I was looking for.

It doesn’t really matter what number the gauge says - as long as you know what you like and can repeat it.
I just prefer using the AccuGage because it’s maximum pressure is 30psi, so my 18-25psi tyres are right within the 1/3 to 2/3rd area of its range that’s recommended to be within.

I have a JoeBlow Booster pump by Topeak - which has a gauge on it. From memory, I think it goes up to 11bar (approx 160psi). When I pump my tyres up to 20psi on there and check them with my AccuGage, they’re actually around 16psi. According to my pump, I need to put in more like 25-30psi (depending which tyre), and then release in small blasts until I reach the desired pressure.
The accuracy suffers because the gauge is capable of a much larger range.

Anyway - we’re heading off on a different tangent!
Any repeatable gauge will allow you to test the differences between tyre pressures and work out which one suits you best.

 

[Jurassic]

I think that as long as you know what a certain pressure reading on your guage equates to on the trail then the actual accurate pressure doesn't really matter. It's just a relative thing so if 20psi on your guage feels right on the trail, it doesn't really matter whether it's actually 20psi or not. What I have found though is that the lower you go the more impact a small change has in terms of it being a percentage of the overall pressure. This is particularly apparent on my fat bike (which I run at 7psi front, 8psi rear). One psi is a big change at those low pressures whereas one psi change at 40psi is barely noticeable.