What did you do to your EBike this week?

[Mikerb]

If the top cap is the same concave flimsy type I had on a Levo Comp I would change it with a more solid version. That may be the source of your issue.

 

[Tooks]

The top cap and bolt is only there to preload the stem/top and bottom bearings, the stem pinch bolts provide the security to stop it all shifting.

Make sure that the top cap isn’t hitting the top of the fork steerer and make sure you’re torquing your stem bolts correctly and there isn’t a glut of grease on the steerer/stem.

 

[RustyMTB]

Serviced my dropper. New bushes & seals & a very good clean out. I thought I'd taken a few pictures but apparently not. Nevertheless, here's the state of the old upper bush that sits behind the collar seal. Well overdue imo.

 

[steve_sordy]

Steve, you don’t live all that far from me I don’t think? Feel free to pop down and I’ll get my compressor on it.

Thanks very much for that offer @Tooks. I have just sat down to read through new posts on here after refitting the old valve!
I also discovered that the check valve on my Joe Blow Max HP track pump is acting up. On the downward stroke, it is as though the check valve is jamming and preventing air from flowing into the wheel. If I go really slowly it will work, but that's a pain all by itself! I've not done bad with the Joe Blow, I must have had it for more than ten years, easily. A new check valve assembly will sort that out soon enough.

 

[irie]

Serviced my dropper. New bushes & seals & a very good clean out. I thought I'd taken a few pictures but apparently not. Nevertheless, here's the state of the old upper bush that sits behind the collar seal. Well overdue imo.

View attachment 152479

F7ck me, that is horrible!

 

[steve_sordy]

@Mik3F and @irie Ref the ability to inflate tubeless tyres with a track pump. See my pots #484 above to @Tooks. My track pump is not working well at the moment.

 

[steve_sordy]

F7ck me, that is horrible!

Nonsense! It will polish out!

 

[Mikerb]

The top cap and bolt is only there to preload the stem/top and bottom bearings, the stem pinch bolts provide the security to stop it all shifting.

Make sure that the top cap isn’t hitting the top of the fork steerer and make sure you’re torquing your stem bolts correctly and there isn’t a glut of grease on the steerer/stem.

yes I understand that and certainly your last point about grease on the steerer is a common thing overlooked. What i was referring to was the top cap appearing to apply the correct tension when set but settling even before the stem bolts are torqued. I also do not tighten the top cap according to a torque setting but rather tighten until all play is eliminated, whilst there is no binding of the steerer allowing the forks to move freely side to side. With freshly greased bearings there is bound to be play after a short while as excess grease is ejected so some additional tension on the top cap bolt is a useful way to avoid that before then setting it at its optimal tension level.

 

[Tooks]

yes I understand that and certainly your last point about grease on the steerer is a common thing overlooked. What i was referring to was the top cap appearing to apply the correct tension when set but settling even before the stem bolts are torqued. I also do not tighten the top cap according to a torque setting but rather tighten until all play is eliminated, whilst there is no binding of the steerer allowing the forks to move freely side to side. With freshly greased bearings there is bound to be play after a short while as excess grease is ejected so some additional tension on the top cap bolt is a useful way to avoid that before then setting it at its optimal tension level.

Yep, wasn’t being critical at all, just that some folks believe the top cap and nut are solely responsible for the integrity of the front end, but they’re only torqued to 3-4Nm or so, and the stem and bolts clamping the steerer after pre-tensioning is where the lions share of the work is done.

I’ve seen flared head tubes as well after headset play has gone unchecked for a while, which even replaced bearings won’t solve.

 

[steve_sordy]

To make sure that the headset bolts are done up correctly, after setting, turn the bike upside down, turn the front wheel at right angles and rock the wheel to and fro in line with the bike. Put your fingers across the headset joints; if you can't feel any movement then it's done up properly.

I used to do the rocking thing with the bike the right way up, but somehow, the upside-down version is a better test. Probably because there is more weight on the bearings.

PS: If I had problems with the bolts coming loose, I'd be down the Loctite route as quick as a flash.

 

[irie]

The question is does a Muc-Off Big Valve let through more air than a Presta valve with the core removed?

Yes, I would say so

What are the minimum ID's of both valves?

*bump*

 

[Mik3F]

I don't have anything I can measure the ID with I'm afraid

 

[Stihldog]

I don't have anything I can measure the ID with I'm afraid

A metric drill bit set maybe?

 

[steve_sordy]

I just popped out to the garage to compare the bore sizes of a Presta tubeless valve (with the core removed) and the MucOff Hybrid tubeless valve. The hybrid MucOff has one end suitable for the rim drilled for a Presta, but has the pump fittings for a Schrader, so it's not the largest bore size they offer. Can you tell which is which?

As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same.
To compare, I put a straight edge of paper on the screen and marked the diameter of one valve and then compared with the other valve.

 

[Stihldog]

I just popped out to the garage to compare the bore sizes of a Presta tubeless valve (with the core removed) and the MucOff Hybrid tubeless valve. The hybrid MucOff has one end suitable for the rim drilled for a Presta, but has the pump fittings for a Schrader, so it's not the largest bore size they offer. Can you tell which is which?

View attachment 152528

As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same.
To compare, I put a straight edge of paper on the screen and marked the diameter of one valve and then compared with the other valve.

WTF…I’ve never seen a measuring tape like that before. HOW?

 

[Stihldog]

I thought I’ve never seen a tape measure like that before, but I stand corrected.

 

[steve_sordy]

WTF…I’ve never seen a measuring tape like that before. HOW?

Not sure whether you are winding me up, but I will respond as though you are not.

It is a perfectly standard steel tape measure, inches and feet on the top and millimetres and metres on the bottom. They can be bought quite cheaply all over the UK and have done for many decades. I am astonished that you have never seen one before!
I've had at least one ever since I left home. This is a popular one for home use.

Stanley Powerlock Classic 3m 0-33-522 | Tape Measures | The Tape Store

Stanley Powerlock Classic 3m - The famous 3m (metric only) pocket tape from Stanley. Decades of quality and reliability, Mylar coated for 10 x blade life, Class

www.thetapestore.co.uk

My grandson's tape measure that he uses for work, is double sided, has a magnetic idiot end so it will stick to steelwork, scaffolding etc and measures up to 20m. In addition to powerlock (locked in an open position), it has automatic retraction (most do) but with a soft close end so that it doesn't take your eye out. Quite a bit more expensive!

 

[irie]

I just popped out to the garage to compare the bore sizes of a Presta tubeless valve (with the core removed) and the MucOff Hybrid tubeless valve.
...
As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same.
...

Would be surprised if they were more than slightly different because both have to go through the same size hole in the rim.

 

[steve_sordy]

I thought I’ve never seen a tape measure like that before, but I stand corrected.

View attachment 152532

Were you having a "senior moment" @Stihldog ?

 

[irie]

 

[Stihldog]

Not sure whether you are winding me up, but I will respond as though you are not.

It is a perfectly standard steel tape measure, inches and feet on the top and millimetres and metres on the bottom. They can be bought quite cheaply all over the UK and have done for many decades. I am astonished that you have never seen one before!
I've had at least one ever since I left home. This is a popular one for home use.

Stanley Powerlock Classic 3m 0-33-522 | Tape Measures | The Tape Store

Stanley Powerlock Classic 3m - The famous 3m (metric only) pocket tape from Stanley. Decades of quality and reliability, Mylar coated for 10 x blade life, Class

www.thetapestore.co.uk

My grandson's tape measure that he uses for work, is double sided, has a magnetic idiot end so it will stick to steelwork, scaffolding etc and measures up to 20m. In addition to powerlock (locked in an open position), it has automatic retraction (most do) but with a soft close end so that it doesn't take your eye out. Quite a bit more expensive!

Nah, I think I wound myself up. I’ve never used metric for measuring wood before. I couldn’t get past the 3/3 digits.
Whoa, I better eat something.

 

[Bear-uk]

Nah, I think I wound myself up. I’ve never used metric for measuring wood before. I couldn’t get past the 3/3 digits.
Whoa, I better eat something.

It's the future

 

[Stihldog]

It's the future

It does make sense and I wish our southern neighbor had changed over to metric also. It is definitely beneficial in most of the trades but I still need to carry both imperial and metric tools. Doubles the “fun” and cost.

But I’m stuck with the imperial system for wood products. It’s kinda like learning a new language. It can be awkward and embarrassing when speaking to our EU friends.

 

[whitymon]

Bought:
- SwitchGrade 2.0 EVO: kind of nice but on the first ride it had to retight it to avoid loosing my saddle! I guess I really need to use some thread lock. So far seems interesting not sure worth is the word
- DT Swiss HX 1700 - Bontrager Line are okayish but I do not feel safe saddle with them on big hit
- Damper X2 & Shaft 180mm

I am still wondering so about the t-type now, I found shifting really, even if SLX same as my analog, not crisp and nice on the Slash+. It feels just odd and sometimes clunky, maybe that's the bike with high pivot or me not well verse in using an emtb.

 

[steve_sordy]

Nah, I think I wound myself up. I’ve never used metric for measuring wood before. I couldn’t get past the 3/3 digits.
Whoa, I better eat something.

33cm = 13"
Spooky, eh?

 

[steve_sordy]

.............

But I’m stuck with the imperial system for wood products. It’s kinda like learning a new language. It can be awkward and embarrassing when speaking to our EU friends.

More than a few years ago now I went to the woodyard in my nearest town. I asked for some planed "two by one" (2" x 1" planed timber). He told me that "we no longer stock 2x1 as we have gone metric", the nearest I can give you is 50x25 mm. (1.968" x 0.984"), that OK? Seeing as planed timber was only ever to the nearest 1/16", if you were lucky, I said "OK I'll have that instead".

He then told me "It comes in eight-foot lengths, that OK?"

 

[irie]

More than a few years ago now I went to the woodyard in my nearest town. I asked for some planed "two by one" (2" x 1" planed timber). He told me that "we no longer stock 2x1 as we have gone metric", the nearest I can give you is 50x25 mm. (1.968" x 0.984"), that OK? Seeing as planed timber was only ever to the nearest 1/16", if you were lucky, I said "OK I'll have that instead".

He then told me "It comes in eight-foot lengths, that OK?"

Metric is OK for very small amounts measured in mm but above 25mm inches work better. Sometimes used to shop with my French then mother-in-law and she would ask for "un livre" of this and that (Maine-et-Loire).

 

[steve_sordy]

Metric is OK for very small amounts measured in mm but above 25mm inches work better. Sometimes used to shop with my French then mother-in-law and she would ask for "un livre" of this and that (Maine-et-Loire).

"Un livre" is about one pound in weight. It is not surprising, because the old imperial system (and what existed in France before Napoleon's imposition of the metric system, was based upon human scale measurements.
Surprisingly, despite the imposition of the metric system in the UK for weights and measures, people still order in pounds and ounces (but market traders have been prosecuted for selling in imperial measures).

Interestingly, it was the Emperor Charlemagne who established it. livre comes from libra (a Roman unit of weight) and is probably why the short form of pound in the UK is "lb" (We experienced the Romans too).

 

[RustyMTB]

You probably knew a few eh Steve.

 

[Stihldog]

Sorry guys but none of this is helping …I’m taking my tape measures and going home to count a few of my Loonies and Toonies.

Ps; you can use our Monopoly money to repair tears in your trampoline.