inwoods
Active member
Yeah the err bashed up bit
Its a 10 speed and is this hub...
D462SB-B12
The spare parts lists a 9 speed freewheel and no 10 speed.
Vitus E-Sommet VR
- Thread starter Iain at the back
- Start date
Yeah the err bashed up bit
Its a 10 speed and is this hub...
D462SB-B12
The spare parts lists a 9 speed freewheel and no 10 speed.
Yes I put a 180 on mine last year, but have recently shortened it back to 170mm.
I decided that there was no real world benefit to the extra travel, and that raising the front end was making the front lift too easily on technical climbs, along with the fact that it was slightly harder to weight the front end through corners.
It’s subtle differences, but personally I would not bother.
What a coincidence, that hub I have on a set of carbon wheels on my wife’s LevoYeah the err bashed up bit
Its a 10 speed and is this hub...
D462SB-B12
The spare parts lists a 9 speed freewheel and no 10 speed.
As a matter of fact I have the spare part number for the steel version of axle/freewheel, give me a second and I’ll find it for you.
Btw you can run a 10 speed on it no problem
Karsten
This is what you need for your hub:Yeah the err bashed up bit
Its a 10 speed and is this hub...
D462SB-B12
The spare parts lists a 9 speed freewheel and no 10 speed.
Freewheel:
Cassette body F type, Shim.11, steel 3-pawls
Axle:
Axle Rear B12, Steel 15/12x148 BOOST, for D462SB-B12, D162SB-B12, OEM
As a matter of fact I did the same to my hub as you did to yours. I also managed to bend the alu axle so if yours are not the steel version, I recommend to upgrade that as well.
Karsten
Karsten, carbon wheels, fox forks ! You really do know how to treat a lady properly !!!
Though I'm starting to wonder... you say it's the "Wife's bike" .. but is this just an excuse to have two bikes and only you ride it ??? ;-)
Trust me; as I’m 6’3 she can have her size small women's version Levo for herself but you are on to something as I have 2 batteries now when I go on my own ?Karsten, carbon wheels, fox forks ! You really do know how to treat a lady properly !!!
Though I'm starting to wonder... you say it's the "Wife's bike" .. but is this just an excuse to have two bikes and only you ride it ??? ;-)
Karsten
inwoods
Active member
Champion cheers Karsten Ill get that ordered and hope they don't take too long to post.
I ordered the upgrade some months ago and it took only 3 days to Denmark and very good communication.Champion cheers Karsten Ill get that ordered and hope they don't take too long to post.
Karsten
Don't forget, if you have any concerns about how to carry the second battery, talk to @Gary , I hear he's taking pre-development deposits for his new patented "Battery Sherpa". All money paid now will be 100% invested in Thought Fluid (aka beer) with the hope of coming up with a solution.
gtaadicto
Member
That's a common issue with Shimano motors, you need alu caps
Any issues with shimano 8000 motors throwing cranks ! - EMTB Forums
Like these : mine stayed on once I'd changed from the plastic ones. You can do them up quite tightly as it sticks no pressure on the bottom bracket bearings
Katana Crank Arm Fixing Bolt Alloy | Crankset Shop
and for tightening/removing ..
Shimano Crank Arm Tool TL-FC16 Hollowtech II | Tools - Crank Shop
Lots of people have this problem. Some people seem to think it isn't a terrible design flaw but you are supposed to check to bolt before every ride. me - I'm not so convinced. I also bought the unofficial alu caps to prevent it happening again and so far it works.
Nifty 56
Member
The plastic screw on end caps are only for pushing the crank arm into position and making sure it is fully seated. They are not meant to hold the crank arm on really although they are a back up of sorts.
The allen bolts on the crank arm need to be tightened to the recommended torque. Don't just tighten each bolt individually. Alternate the tightening as you'll see each one needs re-tightening as you torque the other, as they work together.
I also use the recommended torque but tighten them a bit more.
My crank arm fell off from new at one point but never again. I also had the same problem on my road bike but lesson learnt
The allen bolts on the crank arm need to be tightened to the recommended torque. Don't just tighten each bolt individually. Alternate the tightening as you'll see each one needs re-tightening as you torque the other, as they work together.
I also use the recommended torque but tighten them a bit more.
My crank arm fell off from new at one point but never again. I also had the same problem on my road bike but lesson learnt
Welshman
Well-known member
the black tab on the end of the crank arm fits into a hole on the spindle, once seated and torqued it should never slide off unless the tab snaps and that doesnt happen very often
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
I agree with others that little plastic bolt isn't to hold the crank arm on, once the crank arm bolts are torqued down properly and the safety tab in place (in case you don't torque the bolts properly and even) you could take the plastic end cap off.. same as you can with your preload bolt on your headset once the stem is torqued in place.
So ultimately the plastic bolt coming off isn't the cause but a result of another fault IMO.
So ultimately the plastic bolt coming off isn't the cause but a result of another fault IMO.
No. Mate. The CRC group bought "Vitus" the Saint Etienne based company. The bikes were tested by Irish DH and Enduro riders. and being far eastern factory built frames with Sram/Shimano/RS/Nukeproof components plastered all over them weren't built in France at all.It's a bit of a late reply and just came across this whlist looking for another thread... but Vitus are based in Saint-Étienne, France, not N.Ireland where CRC are
the buyout is even explained in the link you posted.
I had a French built Vitus road bike BITD ('90s) BTW
Better late than never, eh?
Last edited:
Nifty 56
Member
No. Mate. The CRC group bought "Vitus" the Saint Etienne based company. The bikes were tested by Irish DH and Enduro riders. and being far eastern factory built frames with Sram/Shimano/RS/Nukeproof components plastered all over them weren't built in France at all.
the buyout is even explained in the link you posted.
I had a French built Vitus road bike BITD ('00s) BTW
Better late than never, eh?
I just knew you'd know better...
I should've Googled it before... Behind the Brand - Vitus | Articles » Issue 42
Last edited:
Nifty 56
Member
They'll take any tyre you want that's 27.5". I ran 2.8" on the back and 2.6" front.
Excellent, thank you
Master Link
Member
Yeah, the rims are 29mm internal width and will easily take a 2.6” tyre. However, be careful with the clearance on the Lyrik fork, especially if you use a mudguard.
Nifty 56
Member
I used a mudguard with a 2.8" front tyre for a while and loadsa room. 3" might have been a bit tight.
Master Link
Member
I suppose it is a matter of where you ride. My local trails are clay based and I often have to stop to remove mud.
Try a CRUD XL. it has been designed specifically to allow clogging mud an exit before the fork arch and can also be adjusted higher (for more tyre clearance)
Master Link
Member
Thanks Gary, I’ll have a look.
Master Link
Member
Ordered?. I will fit my Mud Hugger on the rear triangle to reduce the crud getting onto the shock and bearings.
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