Polaris
Active member
Heck, gone all the way back to day 1 on that reply bud, that post is a vintage
Sounds like you’ve been unlucky with wiggle though, had many orders with them and all been faultless here
Vitus E-Sommet VR
- Thread starter Iain at the back
- Start date
Sounds like you’ve been unlucky with wiggle though, had many orders with them and all been faultless here
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
My HTLt has 140mm crank to ground clearance with the 175mm XX1 cranks.
The VR has 155mm crank to ground clearance with the 165mm Shimano Cranks.
So even taking into account the crank length the HTLt has less pedal ground clearance. I'm running the stock 150 Fox Fork on the HTLt.
So there you have it even with a 165mm crank the HTLt would still have 5mm less pedal ground clearance than the VR. I run Nukeproof Horizon pedals on the HTLt and Oneups on the VR which is a much thinner pedal than the Horizon, probably why I've not had any pedal strike issue on the VR outside of initial power boost strikes which are user error.
Obviously more BB clearance of the HTLt BB Vs the VR motor but that low slung motor and not rotated up like on some more XC/Trail orientated bikes is lowering the centre of gravity which is helping the bikes stability IMO. So what initially looks strange (the level motor) is probably by design.
Personally i'm still faster on my local DH on my HTLt but being fair the course suits the HTLt more than the VR.
Cheers for sharing @RocketMagnet but BB height/clearance doesn't really work quite like that.
To get the full picture the bike's travel and sag need to be taken into account and different crank lengths are somewhat irrelevant.
eg. I could stick a set of 190mm cranks on any bike and claim it has less clearance than other bikes when it clearly hasn't... or I could compare a low 13.5" BB 120mm bike to a 13.6" BB 170mm bike and state the 120mm bike is lower when other than static height it isn't.
The E-sommet has 20mm more travel up front and 10mm more travel rear so let's say for ease that makes it's BB around 13mm lower at full compression/bottom out and 4mm lower at sag point (using the same % sag f&r) than a 150mm f&r bike like the Hightower.
so although (from what you are saying) your hightower has a 5mm lower static BB. in reality while riding there'll be barely any difference between the two. (a good thing TBF)
Tyre volume makes a big difference to BB height too but doesn't alter BB drop.
Where's your local DH spot? You also ride up this way (Inners) a bit too IIRC?
My E-sommet is (V.slightly) faster DH than my Capra and my Session on a lot of local (T.Valley) DH/Enduro tracks.. Mainly because of the extra grip/stability and momentum it carries. Certainly doesn't mean it's always more fun to ride though. (bit like 29ers)
To get the full picture the bike's travel and sag need to be taken into account and different crank lengths are somewhat irrelevant.
eg. I could stick a set of 190mm cranks on any bike and claim it has less clearance than other bikes when it clearly hasn't... or I could compare a low 13.5" BB 120mm bike to a 13.6" BB 170mm bike and state the 120mm bike is lower when other than static height it isn't.
The E-sommet has 20mm more travel up front and 10mm more travel rear so let's say for ease that makes it's BB around 13mm lower at full compression/bottom out and 4mm lower at sag point (using the same % sag f&r) than a 150mm f&r bike like the Hightower.
so although (from what you are saying) your hightower has a 5mm lower static BB. in reality while riding there'll be barely any difference between the two. (a good thing TBF)
Tyre volume makes a big difference to BB height too but doesn't alter BB drop.
Where's your local DH spot? You also ride up this way (Inners) a bit too IIRC?
My E-sommet is (V.slightly) faster DH than my Capra and my Session on a lot of local (T.Valley) DH/Enduro tracks.. Mainly because of the extra grip/stability and momentum it carries. Certainly doesn't mean it's always more fun to ride though. (bit like 29ers)
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
Yeah it's the best clearance test I can do (Translation: I can be bothered to do) other than use a Shockwiz and look at the Dynamic Sag to work it out from there or just take some static rider sag measurements.
Basically I don't think the E Sommet VR is too low nor does it need shorter cranks for most riders. I could see some who want to do what are effectively "impossible" climbs up very steep rocky stuff... but for normal riding I've had no issues outside of initial pedal strikes as the power engages. Still saying this if people want shorter cranks then that's up to them as they know whats best for them personally, I'm just saying generally they seem fine to me. I do have ultra thin pedals on the VR but not on the HTLt.
I ride in the Lake District but not done any of the big mountain passes on the VR yet.. nearly done Skiddaw yesterday but ended up just doing a couple of laps of Whinlatter instead, it's not really technical now however. Still getting around 23 miles top end out of the battery with about 1000m of climbing with say 95% in Eco and the rest Trail. Getting stopped quite frequently with people asking about the bike and not had any grief off anyone so far, not that I'd really care tbh but most people are very positive anyway.
We ride most of the Stanes but my favourite is Innerleithen (once you get to the top that is). Think I've only ridden Mabie and Ae on the VR. Sorting a trip out up there soon but I wont be taking the Ebike.
Seen some comments around the tyres but personally I think I'll be replacing with like for like, absolutely love the front tyre.
Basically I don't think the E Sommet VR is too low nor does it need shorter cranks for most riders. I could see some who want to do what are effectively "impossible" climbs up very steep rocky stuff... but for normal riding I've had no issues outside of initial pedal strikes as the power engages. Still saying this if people want shorter cranks then that's up to them as they know whats best for them personally, I'm just saying generally they seem fine to me. I do have ultra thin pedals on the VR but not on the HTLt.
I ride in the Lake District but not done any of the big mountain passes on the VR yet.. nearly done Skiddaw yesterday but ended up just doing a couple of laps of Whinlatter instead, it's not really technical now however. Still getting around 23 miles top end out of the battery with about 1000m of climbing with say 95% in Eco and the rest Trail. Getting stopped quite frequently with people asking about the bike and not had any grief off anyone so far, not that I'd really care tbh but most people are very positive anyway.
We ride most of the Stanes but my favourite is Innerleithen (once you get to the top that is). Think I've only ridden Mabie and Ae on the VR. Sorting a trip out up there soon but I wont be taking the Ebike.
Seen some comments around the tyres but personally I think I'll be replacing with like for like, absolutely love the front tyre.
Polaris
Active member
bloody quiet in here, has everyone gone to trade their sommets in for decoys or something?!
17% off at wiggle again if that temps anyone back! However got to wait until Nov/Dec for delivery
17% off at wiggle again if that temps anyone back! However got to wait until Nov/Dec for delivery
I have been too busy riding mine! I did actually order the YT, but have now cancelled the order as TBH I love the Sommett so much I can't see the point in getting another similar bike unless its truly game changing in terms of either battery or motor tech.
Polaris
Active member
Completely agree, I was a little gutted I didn’t wait ordering my 2019 sommet when I first saw the decoy, but at £1200 cheaper than the base yt model with wiggle discount the sommet is still unbeatable imo. Stunning design though
Rode inners trail centre loop on my 4x bike last week for the first time in ages and will be riding Mabie & Dalbeatie on it this weekend.
They're not really my idea of the best riding but I'm showing my GF round riding areas/trail centre routes suited to her sort of level.
DH and the non graded riding at Elibank/Traquair side of Inners is more my bag. That and the Golfie, Thornielee and Yair.
most of Ae trail centre route I've always found really badly built/designed and not a lot of fun no matter what bike. Ebike makes it slightly less shit though.
Drumlanrig is also pretty good (especially considering the lack of gradient) and well worth riding. I reckon it'd be even better on an Eeb too.
Oddly. The Lake district is one of the only popular riding areas in the UK I've never ridden in.
Yeah, totally agree the VR isn't low. Almost every other Emtb is too high.
@Polaris
EsommetVR Vs Decoy the sommet is hands down the better bike for me regardless of cost or model level. It's lighter with better geometry/handling for playful descending.
gtaadicto
Member
I have been riding mine a lot, it has already 600+ km in the odometer. Very happy with the bike except for the paint, it scratches quite easily.bloody quiet in here, has everyone gone to trade their sommets in for decoys or something?!
17% off at wiggle again if that temps anyone back! However got to wait until Nov/Dec for delivery
Wiggle told me today that the faulty Lyrik fork has been repaired with new lowers and bushings, I should receive it by the end of next week
.Adam
Member
bloody quiet in here, has everyone gone to trade their sommets in for decoys or something?!
17% off at wiggle again if that temps anyone back! However got to wait until Nov/Dec for delivery
The Vitus E-Sommet VR is a bike I've been being tempted by a lot lately. Is there any easy way to be eligible for the Wiggle discount? Or is it just spending £500 (I think thats the figure I read before) with them that gets you eligible?
Cheers
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
Hey Guys,
For your info, MB Bearings now have the frame bearing set for the e-sommet.
mbbearings.co.uk, Frame Hub Bearings
ATB, Frank
For your info, MB Bearings now have the frame bearing set for the e-sommet.
mbbearings.co.uk, Frame Hub Bearings
ATB, Frank
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
I tend to use Simply Bearings as the service is second to none in my experience.
I've ordered stuff late on and it still came the next day... but the kit looks good value especially if they are all Enduro Max (note maximum just means the max number of balls in the race that will fit as its load bearing and rocks not fully spins). So Simply bearings is worth a look if you don't need to replace all bearings or need it quick.
They do SKF wiper seals also which I've just fitted to my Fox36 and they feel fantastic, are cheaper than the fox standard and retain the lip to make a much easier install / less error prone as you cant over or under insert or skew the seal due to the lip. Why they removed it from the fox standard is a mystery, sell their install tool or more seals as people mess up the install and ruin seals?
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Products-Cycle-Bearings/c4747_4586/index.html
I've ordered stuff late on and it still came the next day... but the kit looks good value especially if they are all Enduro Max (note maximum just means the max number of balls in the race that will fit as its load bearing and rocks not fully spins). So Simply bearings is worth a look if you don't need to replace all bearings or need it quick.
They do SKF wiper seals also which I've just fitted to my Fox36 and they feel fantastic, are cheaper than the fox standard and retain the lip to make a much easier install / less error prone as you cant over or under insert or skew the seal due to the lip. Why they removed it from the fox standard is a mystery, sell their install tool or more seals as people mess up the install and ruin seals?
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Products-Cycle-Bearings/c4747_4586/index.html
gtaadicto
Member
Does anyone know which compound do the SRAM Guide RE brake pads have? I mean, the stock pads on the 2019 E-Sommet VR
sintered
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
They should be Sintered.
Has anyone removed the swing-arm from eSommet?
I noticed already some weeks back free play in the rear linkage. Today had time to remove all of the links and located the free play coming from main swing-arm axle/bearings. eSommet seem to have bit strange design as there is really no through axle (like any other bikes I have had). There is just small 6mm screw which can be removed with allen key. But it is only maybe 40mm long and removing it does not loosen the swing-arm.
Any advices how to proceed?
Here are some pics of it.
Should I knock the screw on opposite side with hammer to loosen the other side? Gently knocks did not push it through (TL-FC39 is in order as chain guide has to be removed as well..).
I noticed already some weeks back free play in the rear linkage. Today had time to remove all of the links and located the free play coming from main swing-arm axle/bearings. eSommet seem to have bit strange design as there is really no through axle (like any other bikes I have had). There is just small 6mm screw which can be removed with allen key. But it is only maybe 40mm long and removing it does not loosen the swing-arm.
Any advices how to proceed?
Here are some pics of it.
Should I knock the screw on opposite side with hammer to loosen the other side? Gently knocks did not push it through (TL-FC39 is in order as chain guide has to be removed as well..).
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
See here for exploded diagram for the Sommet here:
E-Sommet bearing numbers and torque values - EMTB Forums
Looking at this makes it clear you'll need access to undo the drive side to remove.
E-Sommet bearing numbers and torque values - EMTB Forums
Looking at this makes it clear you'll need access to undo the drive side to remove.
Thanks for the tips. I got the main axle out now. Under the smaller 6mm screw is another slot for 8mm allen key. This is the actual main pivot axle. And it is actually possible to remove from non-drive side.
I haven't identified still what is causing the free play. Bearings felt smooth, even there was some rust. I'll check tomorrow evening again and try to re-torque the main pivot axle (maybe it was just loose).
I haven't identified still what is causing the free play. Bearings felt smooth, even there was some rust. I'll check tomorrow evening again and try to re-torque the main pivot axle (maybe it was just loose).
RocketMagnet
Well-known member
Yeah that's pretty standard.. same as some pivots on my Santa Cruz. Exploded looked like it interfaced with the other side and you often need to hold one side while you loosen the other.
I'd probably just clean it all up and grease/Loctite where appropriate then Torque everything up.
So is the rear moving side to side, just checked mine and its solid.
I'd probably just clean it all up and grease/Loctite where appropriate then Torque everything up.
So is the rear moving side to side, just checked mine and its solid.
It is definitely play because I could feel small "edge" while rocking the linkage from side to side. But there is no signs that chain stay would have been scratching the frame (which is of course good). So I hope it was just because of the main pivot axle was not tight enough and the bearings were not "pre-loaded" against the frame.
I'll just put everything back together in evening and tighten back to correct torque and hopefully it is "fixed".
The next part in the plan has arrived - by sheer luck I managed to pick up a second hand unused boxed up as new shock with exactly the right measurements at a bargain price.
Still injured so proabbly won’t get a test ride till next weekend
Still injured so proabbly won’t get a test ride till next weekend
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
What did that cost you? Had my eye on a listing on eBay for SD coil for £230 delivered from Taiwan, not including any import tax etc though. Was tempted but I have gone down this road before with a Cane Creek coil on a DW 5 spot and it really robbed a lot of pop from the bike, be interested to see how you get on with it.
Last edited:
I got shock for 200 - I am pretty sure the seller was a pro rider but can't be sure, it was a private seller uk based. I actually found it as I was doing an image search fro one and the listing came up, and then when I read the blurb it was the right size, which isn't an off the shelf size. Got the spring from TF for 35 quid.
At the price I am happy to try it out - my original shock is being serviced at TF Tuned at the moment, and having a Meg Neg can put on it, which is easy enough to reverse.
I nailed myself a couple of weeks ago so have taken the time off to play around with the bike some more, I am also having my forks which are 180mm (Lyrik RC2 that I put on, not the stock ones) put down to 170mm as I dont need 180mm and it does move the front end up a bit, and I want to make it a bit less effort to get my weight over the front. Also putting a 36t front ring on.
At the price I am happy to try it out - my original shock is being serviced at TF Tuned at the moment, and having a Meg Neg can put on it, which is easy enough to reverse.
I nailed myself a couple of weeks ago so have taken the time off to play around with the bike some more, I am also having my forks which are 180mm (Lyrik RC2 that I put on, not the stock ones) put down to 170mm as I dont need 180mm and it does move the front end up a bit, and I want to make it a bit less effort to get my weight over the front. Also putting a 36t front ring on.
davosaurusrex
E*POWAH Master
That is a good price. Keep us posted on how it rides. Be interesting to see If MRP sell the progressive springs aftermarket
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