Vitus E-Mythique LT won't power on.

[willsendall77]

Yes but the only way water can get in the motor is the gasket that seals the two halfs, i fitted a new one, and around the plug sockets, i fitted a new socket board gasket and put a little smear of aquasure around the holes where the plug sockets stick through.
I think the display is a weak point when it comes to water, im working on that.
I think that ribbon cable is a weak point make sure you change it
Just been out on it, very nice ride motor is virtually silent.

Hi there mate

I don’t suppose you could post a link to the parts used to fix your bike? I think I’ll need to do the same thing to mine. Easy job? Obviously splitting the motor is required?

 

[ccrdave]

These are the bits i used stripping the motor is fairly easy to do just make you know where the bits go back

 

[willsendall77]

These are the bits i used stripping the motor is fairly easy to do just make you know where the bits go back

View attachment 137784 View attachment 137785

Thanks mate
Much appreciated

 

[willsendall77]

Thanks mate
Much appreciated

What was the website? Alibaba?

 

[ccrdave]

Aliexpress

 

[Dado]

So, I have an update. I got a new FC2.0 Controller board, Power socket board and ribbon cable fitted to my motor. Zero sign of water ingress when I cracked the motor open. I coated all electronics and connectors in CorrosionX (dielectric coating) and reassembled. After a K1 flash (thanks @Dado) to recalibrate it powered on and worked 100%.

Any ideas @Dado?

Hello MTBman.

Uf, every day I am listening to a different fault with the motors. Will get exhausted soon.

So it worked and suddenly stop motor assist? Also when you power Off/On motor there is no assist now?
It wont be by a software issue. Have not seen anything like this for any firmware version.

I am suspecting that coating.... Hard to say.
Microcontroller is running as you can interact with controller (without getting Error 30). So here I see either torque sensor is gone, or power transistors to motor phases.

"It does feel like a software issue as it either reached a speed " - what you mean by reach a speed?

You have it setup OK. Should assist on every PAS level.
And to explain that command D StartUp angle - D as degree. Bafang did chang it with later bootloaders and swapped startup in degre. So I had to leave there also old settings. And K1 Flash is sending one of the command motor do accepting (so with old motors in some "levels" - range is 0 to 13 or so, and new controllers are in degree 0° to 360°). So for your FC2.0 is important ""D Startup Angle" command.

Do u have throttle?

 

[Waynemarlow]

Does the display register the correct speed when spinning the rear wheel on a stand. I think the motor has to see speed registered to continue supplying drive ?

 

[willsendall77]

I’ve tested the battery, it’s registering 40v, power coming into the yellow socket the same, big spark when it’s connected to the motor. Obviously shorting out, I’m assuming definitely water ingress into the motor assembly.

So it’s strip down time.

Can anyone point me in the direction of any specialist tools required to do the job. I can see a toothed nut behind the chainring, will need something for that. Anything else required to enable me to split the casings open.

Really appreciate the help. Am going to give this fix a go, fairly mechanically minded but have never really been electrically minded in the skill department!

Any help, tips, advice would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

 

[Zimmerframe]

Can anyone point me in the direction of any specialist tools required to do the job. I can see a toothed nut behind the chainring, will need something for that. Anything else required to enable me to split the casings open.

Lots of useful crap (or not ...) in here , it's more a data thread than a chat thread, there's a main e-mythique chat thread.

Part way down the first post discusses the lock ring tool ..

Vitus E-Mythique Tech docs

General Bits for the Vitus E-Mythique : Fork Offset : 44mm (1.5" to 1-1/8" tapered) Shock Size 205 * 65mm (Trunnion) Link to Rear Shock on VR/VRS Bottom Shock hardware : 25 * 8mm (Fox code : 803-03-328 DVO code : 1429250-8 Both should be interchangable) Headtube : 44-56mm Tapered...

www.emtbforums.com

 

[Zimmerframe]

I’ve tested the battery, it’s registering 40v, power coming into the yellow socket the same, big spark when it’s connected to the motor. Obviously shorting out, I’m assuming definitely water ingress into the motor assembly.

So it’s strip down time.

Can anyone point me in the direction of any specialist tools required to do the job. I can see a toothed nut behind the chainring, will need something for that. Anything else required to enable me to split the casings open.

Really appreciate the help. Am going to give this fix a go, fairly mechanically minded but have never really been electrically minded in the skill department!

Any help, tips, advice would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

Forgot to ask ..

Does walk mode work and have you tried connecting an android phone with the "Go" app installed to see if you get a torque sensor reading from the motor ?

 

[willsendall77]

Forgot to ask ..

Does walk mode work and have you tried connecting an android phone with the "Go" app installed to see if you get a torque sensor reading from the motor ?

It doesn’t turn on at all

 

[Jimmylowblow]

Nothing else needed apart from the lock ring tool. To open the casing remove the bolts, then split the casing with a screwdriver and a mallet( light taps). It's an easy job.

 

[mtbman]

Nothing else needed apart from the lock ring tool. To open the casing remove the bolts, then split the casing with a screwdriver and a mallet( light taps). It's an easy job.

As someone very helpfully shared with me recently, use a sharp knife to gently split the motor and you can save the gasket for reuse.

 

[willsendall77]

These are the bits i used stripping the motor is fairly easy to do just make you know where the bits go back

View attachment 137784 View attachment 137785

Hi Dave

When you put these bits in do you need to re-program it or anything?

Also it is a 48v system right?

 

[ccrdave]

Hi Dave

When you put these bits in do you need to re-program it or anything?

Also it is a 48v system right?

If you replace the controller you need to calibrate it, for anything else you dont
Its 36v

 

[willsendall77]

If you replace the controller you need to calibrate it, for anything else you dont
Its 36v

Do you need to buy a calibration tool to do that?

 

[willsendall77]

Also my battery was kicking out 40v…. Is that correct for a 36v system?

 

[ccrdave]

Do you need to buy a calibration tool to do that?

Yes i bought K1 nice little tool

 

[willsendall77]

Yes i bought K1 nice little tool

Cheers mate….. where did you get that? Aliexpress?

 

[ccrdave]

Also my battery was kicking out 40v…. Is that correct for a 36v system?

Yes think max output is 42v

 

[ccrdave]

Cheers mate….. where did you get that? Aliexpress?

No from Dado hes on here look about 7-8 posts up this thread

 

[Waynemarlow]

big spark when it’s connected to the motor.

Thats pretty normal as long as it’s momentary , it’s just the capacitors loading up.

 

[willsendall77]

Thats pretty normal as long as it’s momentary , it’s just the capacitors loading up.

Okay. It’s still dead as a doormouse….. could be display but that didn’t get wet, must be ingress?

 

[ccrdave]

Okay. It’s still dead as a doormouse….. could be display but that didn’t get wet, must be ingress?

The more i see of these faults the more im convinced its the ribbon cable that joins the socket board to the controller board

 

[Jimmylowblow]

I say that whole socket board area is at risk and the buttons. Done 2 fixes so far and both had faulty buttons.

 

[mtbman]

The more i see of these faults the more im convinced its the ribbon cable that joins the socket board to the controller board

Okay, so - an update on mine. Replaced controller board, ribbon cable and power board. All powered on fine and worked for about 10mins then looked like it was working but zero assistance from motor.

I tried everything and then the new controller board developed a random error 11. So, as a last ditch attempt I put the old controller back in. It worked and has tested all evening 100%.

Top tips from me having removed and split this motor at least 10 times now - like CRCDave says, I reckon the power board is the major weak point with water ingress at the ports. I’m going to buy a couple spare on AliExpress to be sure.

I have coated that board and all connectors in CorrosionX dielectric spray. I will then use black tack on all those connectors and the display connectors for safe measure.

Do not over-torque the motor casing bolts. I snapped one of them. Go easy.

Here’s hoping this holds this time and I even manage to get it on a trail

 

[willsendall77]

Okay, so - an update on mine. Replaced controller board, ribbon cable and power board. All powered on fine and worked for about 10mins then looked like it was working but zero assistance from motor.

I tried everything and then the new controller board developed a random error 11. So, as a last ditch attempt I put the old controller back in. It worked and has tested all evening 100%.

Top tips from me having removed and split this motor at least 10 times now - like CRCDave says, I reckon the power board is the major weak point with water ingress at the ports. I’m going to buy a couple spare on AliExpress to be sure.

I have coated that board and all connectors in CorrosionX dielectric spray. I will then use black tack on all those connectors and the display connectors for safe measure.

Do not over-torque the motor casing bolts. I snapped one of them. Go easy.

Here’s hoping this holds this time and I even manage to get it on a trail

Hi there
Well done on the fix. What part is the power board? And do you need to recalibrate if you swap it out

 

[mtbman]

Hi there
Well done on the fix. What part is the power board? And do you need to recalibrate if you swap it out

Thanks. it keeps working. This part
7.75￡ 8% OFF|Ebike Bafang Mid Motor Parts M500 M510 M600 Central Motor Parts Waterproof Ring/PCB Board/Oil Seals/Speed Sensor/ Balance Cabl| | - AliExpress - under £10. I did recalibrate mine but only because I installed the new controller board. The power board I don’t believe requires a recalibration. What are the symptoms on yours?

 

[willsendall77]

Thanks. it keeps working. This part
7.75￡ 8% OFF|Ebike Bafang Mid Motor Parts M500 M510 M600 Central Motor Parts Waterproof Ring/PCB Board/Oil Seals/Speed Sensor/ Balance Cabl| | - AliExpress - under £10. I did recalibrate mine but only because I installed the new controller board. The power board I don’t believe requires a recalibration. What are the symptoms on yours?

My bike is just completely dead after two rides. One through some muddy trails. Slight hose down afterwards. It doesn’t power up. About to take the motor out

 

[ccrdave]

Okay, so - an update on mine. Replaced controller board, ribbon cable and power board. All powered on fine and worked for about 10mins then looked like it was working but zero assistance from motor.

I tried everything and then the new controller board developed a random error 11. So, as a last ditch attempt I put the old controller back in. It worked and has tested all evening 100%.

Top tips from me having removed and split this motor at least 10 times now - like CRCDave says, I reckon the power board is the major weak point with water ingress at the ports. I’m going to buy a couple spare on AliExpress to be sure.

I have coated that board and all connectors in CorrosionX dielectric spray. I will then use black tack on all those connectors and the display connectors for safe measure.

Do not over-torque the motor casing bolts. I snapped one of them. Go easy.

Here’s hoping this holds this time and I even manage to get it on a trail

Did you calibrate the new controller board?