Vitus E-Mythique LT won't power on.

[Fmboy]

So after more experiments this morning im even more convinced my problem is the socket board. When it switches on im still getting error 21 which was why i changed the controller in the first place.
will report back once i have changed the socket pcb

Thanks for trying let us know if it works !

 

[ccrdave]

Thanks for trying let us know if it works !

I pulled the motor apart this afternoon its very easy to do, just got to wait for the new board to arrive and build it back up
so far i have replaced
speed sensor
display
wiring
motor controller
once i fit the socket board and a new ribbon cable there is nothing else electronic to replace!!
i hope it works lol

 

[Mikefiver]

Had the same issue exactly as everyone on here. When you say they said warranty no longer an option is yours still under the warranty?? Is it because of the crc issues of late ?

That was last week, said because of circumstances they couldn’t take bike back for repair. Suggested I contact Bafang. Now there’s no reply at all so far for information about the motor. Not their fault of course. Awful business.

 

[Mikefiver]

I pulled the motor apart this afternoon its very easy to do, just got to wait for the new board to arrive and build it back up
so far i have replaced
speed sensor
display
wiring
motor controller
once i fit the socket board and a new ribbon cable there is nothing else electronic to replace!!
i hope it works lol

Hi, do you have to program the controller after fitting?

 

[Mikefiver]

Hi, do you have to program the controller after fitting?

Also noticed that the yellow main power socket on the motor has a hole in the middle and on mine you can see the green back of the controller connecting board. There’s a black seal between the board and the side of the motor but this connector goes through it.
Maybe water can get in this way?

 

[ccrdave]

Hi, do you have to program the controller after fitting?

Yes you have to calibrate it i use K1 flash

 

[ccrdave]

Also noticed that the yellow main power socket on the motor has a hole in the middle and on mine you can see the green back of the controller connecting board. There’s a black seal between the board and the side of the motor but this connector goes through it.
Maybe water can get in this way?

There is a gasket i dont think water can get past it at least splash water but i might "beef" mine up with some sealer when i reasemble it

 

[skismith]

Hi, do you have to program the controller after fitting?

Yes , you'll need to calibrate the position sensor with the besst tool.
Or When you turn on the bike you’ll get an error code .

 

[skismith]

There is a gasket i dont think water can get past it at least splash water but i might "beef" mine up with some sealer when i reasemble it

In my opinion the water gets in past the chain ring side seal , keep that area well packed with grease & top it up regularly.
Some on here who runs hire bikes mentioned this & it working for him .

 

[ccrdave]

In my opinion the water gets in past the chain ring side seal , keep that area well packed with grease & top it up regularly.
Some on here who runs hire bikes mentioned this & it working for him .

Good tip thank you

 

[Mikefiver]

Thanks for help guys. I was going to try and recover money from PayPal but I think I’ll try a repair as it’s such a good bike. How easy is it to get the correct controller and K1flash? Cheers

 

[ccrdave]

Thanks for help guys. I was going to try and recover money from PayPal but I think I’ll try a repair as it’s such a good bike. How easy is it to get the correct controller and K1flash? Cheers

K1 flash is very useful tool and easy to get the seller is on here
almost all parts can be bought pretty cheap from aliexpress, the only downside is the wait time is usually 10-14 days
be careful to buy the right parts. Im no expert but i will always help if i can

 

[rotary]

Thanks for help guys. I was going to try and recover money from PayPal but I think I’ll try a repair as it’s such a good bike. How easy is it to get the correct controller and K1flash? Cheers

@Dado can supply K1 flash

 

[Mikefiver]

Thanks guys

 

[jezhumphrey75]

i really wanted one of these but seeing all the reported problems with them and loads on ebay, screw that.

 

[mtbman]

So after more experiments this morning im even more convinced my problem is the socket board. When it switches on im still getting error 21 which was why i changed the controller in the first place.
will report back once i have changed the socket pcb

Hi, just got mine last week and all the same symptoms - powered on 1st time out of the box and rode amazing. Plugged it on to charge and then wouldn't power back on. I have:

1. checked all connections (no corrosion)
2. reseated all connections, including motor with dielectric grease
3. Put screen and buttons in rice for 24 hours
4. Battery LED is blue - assumed it was in 'sleep' but meters @ 42v and when red it is near zero so assume it means BMS okay and Blue = charged above 60%
5. Yellow power feed to motor meters 42v regardless of not being powered on (it won't) so - power is being delivered to the motor

Still dead.

1. Kept trying to get the battery LED to green by pressing and holding the button - tried back in bike and it powered on! Great - powered it off and it will not power on again.
2. Left battery off for 12hrs with all connects off. Reconnected everything, put battery in.
3. shorted the 2 pins on the back of the display

Still dead.

I'm considering jumping straight to a replacement controller board FC2.0 but am worried about having to split the motor and replace the gasket and then pair the contoller (K1 flash?). On that basis am considering a full motor swap.

I'd welcome suggestions or views from those which have spent longer on this journey than me!

Thanks

 

[ccrdave]

Hi, just got mine last week and all the same symptoms - powered on 1st time out of the box and rode amazing. Plugged it on to charge and then wouldn't power back on. I have:

1. checked all connections (no corrosion)
2. reseated all connections, including motor with dielectric grease
3. Put screen and buttons in rice for 24 hours
4. Battery LED is blue - assumed it was in 'sleep' but meters @ 42v and when red it is near zero so assume it means BMS okay and Blue = charged above 60%
5. Yellow power feed to motor meters 42v regardless of not being powered on (it won't) so - power is being delivered to the motor

Still dead.

1. Kept trying to get the battery LED to green by pressing and holding the button - tried back in bike and it powered on! Great - powered it off and it will not power on again.
2. Left battery off for 12hrs with all connects off. Reconnected everything, put battery in.
3. shorted the 2 pins on the back of the display

Still dead.

I'm considering jumping straight to a replacement controller board FC2.0 but am worried about having to split the motor and replace the gasket and then pair the contoller (K1 flash?). On that basis am considering a full motor swap.

I'd welcome suggestions or views from those which have spent longer on this journey than me!

Thanks

I have done everything you have plus changed display all wiring and motor controller just waiting for socket board and ribbon cable, if that dorsnt fix it (i get error 21 as well) there is nothing else to change, i will just buy a new motor!

 

[Mikefiver]

I’m also in the same boat. Changed everything bar the motor and the battery. My battery is operating the same as yours. I’m assuming it’s ok but not 100% sure.
I’ll go down the motor controller route when I’m convinced the battery is ok.
Not sure how to do that though?
I’m a bit concerned that CCRDave replaced his motor controller with no success.

 

[ccrdave]

I’m also in the same boat. Changed everything bar the motor and the battery. My battery is operating the same as yours. I’m assuming it’s ok but not 100% sure.
I’ll go down the motor controller route when I’m convinced the battery is ok.
Not sure how to do that though?
I’m a bit concerned that CCRDave replaced his motor controller with no success.

I dont think the batteries are a problem even when mine wouldn't switch on there was power at the yellow plug at the motor, i have even had the display switch on but motor wont go.
I should get my new socket board and ribbon cable this week so fingers crossed!!

 

[Mikefiver]

The battery sounds good then.
Mine was the same, power at the yellow plug. Looking at the power boards for sale I see there is a circuit board on the back and a series of tracks close together to a white connector block. Could be a place for moisture to cause havoc if not sealed properly?

 

[ccrdave]

The battery sounds good then.
Mine was the same, power at the yellow plug. Looking at the power boards for sale I see there is a circuit board on the back and a series of tracks close together to a white connector block. Could be a place for moisture to cause havoc if not sealed properly?

To be honest when I opened my motor there wasnt any sign of water ingress at all.
I will replace that white cable that connects the socket board to the controller board

 

[mtbman]

To be honest when I opened my motor there wasnt any sign of water ingress at all.
I will replace that white cable that connects the socket board to the controller board

Thanks for all the replies. Tonight I wanted to drop the motor and check the cabling above the motor but the chainring tool which works on my bosch motor is too shallow for the longer spindle and I had to buy the Park tool on amazon, coming tomorrow.

However, I keep coming back to the intermittent nature of the fault which feels like an electronic issue. So, fiddling around with random key press+hold combinations the bike sprung into life. I was able to prove all the buttons worked and navigate the settings. I learned the following before I put a crank arm back on and put load on the motor for a min at most and then it powered off, never to reboot. So, again, feels like a motor board issue? I learned the following:

1. I have an FC2.0 Motor Controller
2. DPC 245 v2.0
3. Error Codes 36 & 5

Any ideas if this helps narrow things down?
Does the FC2.0 work okay with a DPC245 v2.0 or should it be a v3.0?
What about those error codes?

 

[ccrdave]

36 is error on the keypad
5 is throttle not in correct position
I have both of those before i changed my display

 

[mtbman]

36 is error on the keypad
5 is throttle not in correct position
I have both of those before i changed my display

Interesting - when you swapped out the display did this resolve it? Could this be the issue, controller or keypad shorting?

No Vitus ones available now but I'm assuming a DPC245v2.0 should be plug and play?

 

[ccrdave]

Yes it fixed those two errors but didnt fix random on and off thing, i also have error 21 which is no speed signal tried three different speed sensors.........still there
I have display ver 3 but dont think it makes any difference except bafang go works only with ver 2 and bafang go+ only works with ver 3

 

[mtbman]

Yes it fixed those two errors but didnt fix random on and off thing, i also have error 21 which is no speed signal tried three different speed sensors.........still there
I have display ver 3 but dont think it makes any difference except bafang go works only with ver 2 and bafang go+ only works with ver 3

Thanks, I'll take the plunge on the display and see. I'll perhaps go V3.0 if it plug and play.

 

[Mikefiver]

When mine started to go wonky, a combination of button pushes randomly got it working till it went completely dead. The error codes I got varied but mostly 36 and 5.
New display, button remote and wiring loom made no difference to mine. New display I got was Ver3. Original was Ver2.
My bike ran perfectly for around 4 months and had been out in the wet a number of times. On the last ride however there were numerous deep puddles, not deep enough to submerge the motor but loads of splash - I was in a coaching session.
The bike has never been hosed, only wiped down and kept as dry as possible.
I’m thinking water gets in to the motor controller which works for a bit until some component on the board fails?
Not fazed about mechanical stuff regarding the motor but the electronic side is a mystery.

 

[ccrdave]

Its a mystery to me as well but to be honest apart from the torque sensor there is only as far as i can see two electronic components in the motor the controller and the socket board oh and the cable that connects them and they are cheap and easy to replace. In my mind it was worth a shot to see if it would fix it

 

[Waynemarlow]

Yellow power feed to motor meters 42v regardless of not being powered on (it won't) so - power is being delivered to the motor

Guys be a little careful with seeing 42 volts on a voltmeter. Although there is volts on the line, there may not be enough current flow ( power ) to be able to power up any of the motor processors to begin the power up routine ( which includes powering the display.

You may need to put some resistance across the pins ( perhaps an old light bulb or say 200ohm 25W resistor, be careful it will get hot ) and then measure the voltage. Electronic BMS's can be a pain in diagnosing faults and most faults won't be easily found until current is applied. If there is a problem, with a resistance in line, the voltage will fall and being below the power on threshold of the motor, the motor will not switch on. Best place to test would be at the motor power plug, as in disconnect the plug from the motor and then put resistance across those plug pins ( it will test all the abttery connectors as well as the loom ).

There may also be a CAN signal to the battery to allow current to flow that is also part of the process's that occur on first attempt to start up, the battery in its sleep state may only allow a few Watts max.

Sorry I don't use a Bafang battery and cannot give a guideline to establish if the battery is doing what its supposed to do, Dado may be the only one on here who could test his battery ( you will need an Oscilloscope or CAN capture device ).

 

[mtbman]

Its a mystery to me as well but to be honest apart from the torque sensor there is only as far as i can see two electronic components in the motor the controller and the socket board oh and the cable that connects them and they are cheap and easy to replace. In my mind it was worth a shot to see if it would fix it

Yes, i'm probably going to jump straight to the controller and socket board. If I do get these - do I need the BESST tool or K1 flash or are they plug and play?