Levo Gen 3 Turbo Levo Cassette Damage - Pretty Disappointed

[RichT]

I’m new to emtbs (Tero 5.0 w/GX AXS and 12s 11-50) and still refining my technique to reduce hard shifts. Ive found, through trial and error and a lot of advice from the forum, that if downshifting while pedaling, especialy in higher assist modes, I have to stop pedaling, wait about a second to allow run-on to stop, shift, wait another half second or so for the stars to align, and then continue pedaling. This makes for a smooth, quiet, low stress shift, and also causes a lot of lost momentum, but I bought the bike for fitness, and the lost momentum also means greater effort so more exercise.

There is also an element of patience involved that I’m still working on. When I’m concentrating on making an unexpected short technical climb, I generally forget technique and just blast up it and then regret another hard shift. Out on the road hills are longer, usually more gradual and predictable, and so all this is a lot easier, but that doesn’t apply here.

Also I would think that SRAM would want that cassette back to examine it so you might approach a warranty claim from that angle, contacting them directly as well as your LBS (probably interested but not able to help) and Specialized (probably not even interested). I’ve had very good results with SRAM customer support and they would probably be interested in examining of the part(s) involved since this “wear” is definitely not normal.

 

[Coolpixer]

Happy ending to the story! Cassette was fully replaced and installed under warranty (already) and thanks to you guys I have learned a lot avoiding this next time. Like rzr mentions, down the road I may be looking into a more tolerant drivetrain.

Success!

 

[seamarsh]

I’m new to emtbs (Tero 5.0 w/GX AXS and 12s 11-50) and still refining my technique to reduce hard shifts. Ive found, through trial and error and a lot of advice from the forum, that if downshifting while pedaling, especialy in higher assist modes, I have to stop pedaling, wait about a second to allow run-on to stop, shift, wait another half second or so for the stars to align, and then continue pedaling. This makes for a smooth, quiet, low stress shift, and also causes a lot of lost momentum, but I bought the bike for fitness, and the lost momentum also means greater effort so more exercise.

There is also an element of patience involved that I’m still working on. When I’m concentrating on making an unexpected short technical climb, I generally forget technique and just blast up it and then regret another hard shift. Out on the road hills are longer, usually more gradual and predictable, and so all this is a lot easier, but that doesn’t apply here.

Also I would think that SRAM would want that cassette back to examine it so you might approach a warranty claim from that angle, contacting them directly as well as your LBS (probably interested but not able to help) and Specialized (probably not even interested). I’ve had very good results with SRAM customer support and they would probably be interested in examining of the part(s) involved since this “wear” is definitely not normal.

Don't waste your breath on a forum.. get a warranty started with sram, they will replace it. No need to waste your time talking about it edit: there you go..

 

[eMtb tours]

You wouldn’t expect that for the money- bummer

 

[seamarsh]

Looking at the photo you probably leaned your bike or dropped it without knowing.. bent that tooth slightly... chain bent it back straight and it broke.. aluminum only bends once.

 

[wtsheff]

Same thing happened to my 2022 carbon comp levo cassette after just 1000 miles. My lbs said Specialized would not cover it because it is considered a "wear and tear" issue. At least Specialized did cover my original 2021 levo comp under warranty because of headset play and offered to upgrade me to a new 2023 carbon comp levo for $1800. I had already logged 7000 miles on my 2021 in 18 months so I was happy to get the $9000 bike for $1800. Guess you have to give and take with their warranty policy.

 

[twistgripper]

Happy ending to the story! Cassette was fully replaced and installed under warranty (already) and thanks to you guys I have learned a lot avoiding this next time. Like rzr mentions, down the road I may be looking into a more tolerant drivetrain.

Success!

Good news for you. If it were me i'd take the warranty cassette and just keep running the broken one until it wore out. honestly one tooth on the biggest cog isn't going to make any differencr really - so may other teeth for engagement. I had same GX eagle starting out on my ebike and had some hard shifts....its really quited durable. I wore out my middle cogs and no other damage before replacing.

 

[twistgripper]

You might want to refine your technique a bit.

Surprised that video he doesnt talk at all about using your momentum and letting off the leg power even on an uphill can result in a smooth shift too - If I miss out on anticipating an uphill, as long as you have some momentum you can shift and simultaneously let the power off on the cranks (but keep spinning obviously) and smooth shift - at least getting in a few gears changed before applying leg power again.

 

[darwink1]

Sram cassettes are actually notorious for snapping single teeth throughout the range. My buddy managed it twice on a normally aspirated bike.

As with any bike, look ahead and plan your shifts. This is actually easier to do on an eeb since you have assist, you shouldn't be panic shifting at the last second to get up things.



D

 

[Goughy75]

This is interesting.
I almost always shift on full power on very steep inclines. Not had a problem 1100 miles on 12 speed sram.

 

[Coolpixer]

Good news for you. If it were me i'd take the warranty cassette and just keep running the broken one until it wore out. honestly one tooth on the biggest cog isn't going to make any differencr really - so may other teeth for engagement. I had same GX eagle starting out on my ebike and had some hard shifts....its really quited durable. I wore out my middle cogs and no other damage before replacing.

SRAM wanted it. at the least, it would've looked cool hanging hanging on the wall

 

[cappuccino34]

I personally think the jump up to the 52 first gear is too big for the SRAM derailleur geometry to handle properly. I've just swapped back to a 500% one because I was tired of hanging gearshifts, caused by inadequate lateral chain deflection.

To set the derailleur up 'correctly' for the bigger gear requires a B-screw adjustment that brings the derailleur away from the cassette, and because that leaves a longer length of chain between the upper idler and the cassette the chain deflection on shifts is reduced and shift quality along with it.

Ironically, having every other tooth missing from first gear will probably IMPROVE shift quality.

 

[High Rock Ruti]

Hello everyone! 1st post. I have been riding for decades and recently bought a Comp Alloy. At 100 miles total, I have damaged the cassette. I had no idea a bike so expensive is so fragile. Yes, I shift to 1st gear to climb hills under duress. I can literally put my other "cheap" mt bikes thru hell and never had to repair ---- so I am pretty disappointed. I sincerely thought I was buying one the best most durable bikes on the planet and I paid as such.

Can someone explain or justify this to me? I get light weight vs strength.

Any suggestions going fwd for replacement? Buy same $230 cassette and baby my bike and stop when I encounter a steep hill and gently shift this bike?

Thanks for listening and the help!
View attachment 110841
Todd

High Rock Ruti

Please send the cassette to SRAM, they'll send you a new one. Please do this on faith, I had an AXS derailleur with 300 miles my local bike shop refused to make a warranty claim, they claimed "trail damage". Another shop called on my behalf, SRAM immediately sent a replacement without any supporting docs, nothing.

I've had nothing but great warranty results from both SRAM and Shimano, don't let a bike shop get in your way.

Warm Regards Ruti

 

[DaveG01]

Shop reckons my cassette needs changing after 800miles. My old eyes can't see enough damage to warrant it. New lower spec cassette also in image for reference. What do you think?

 

[High Rock Ruti]

Hello everyone! 1st post. I have been riding for decades and recently bought a Comp Alloy. At 100 miles total, I have damaged the cassette. I had no idea a bike so expensive is so fragile. Yes, I shift to 1st gear to climb hills under duress. I can literally put my other "cheap" mt bikes thru hell and never had to repair ---- so I am pretty disappointed. I sincerely thought I was buying one the best most durable bikes on the planet and I paid as such.

Can someone explain or justify this to me? I get light weight vs strength.

Any suggestions going fwd for replacement? Buy same $230 cassette and baby my bike and stop when I encounter a steep hill and gently shift this bike?

Thanks for listening and the help!
View attachment 110841
Todd

High Rock Ruti

Perhaps, just perhaps trail damage? My drive trains last 600 to 900 miles and I break a derailleur at least once a year. My solution is to buy the cheapest drives possible like M4100 the shifting is not as crisp, but work just fine and they seem every bit as strong , I stock, chains and derailleurs at all times. Perhaps I'm hard on drive trains, I've broken cassette just like yours.

Someone weighed in on 90 newton meters of torque, absolutely breakage and wear.

Warm Regards Ruti

 

[steve_sordy]

Shop reckons my cassette needs changing after 800miles. My old eyes can't see enough damage to warrant it. New lower spec cassette also in image for reference. What do you think?

View attachment 130920 View attachment 130921

That looks nicely run in to me!
There are no burrs on the edges of the teeth and the roots of the teeth are not extended. Also, no shark fins.
Unless there are cracks in the material that don't show up on the pics, then I'd run that cassette until a new chain won't run on it without skipping. Then put the previous old chain back on and keep running!

 

[DaveG01]

Cheers @steve_sordy

I think it's just the shop trying to pull my pants down. They said the chain needs swapping too and it's the third one and has done only 15 miles. (One ride) I know because I measure them and swap out when needed.

Thanks

 

[steve_sordy]

Cheers @steve_sordy

I think it's just the shop trying to pull my pants down. They said the chain needs swapping too and it's the third one and has done only 15 miles. (One ride) I know because I measure them and swap out when needed.

Thanks

Time to find a new bike shop! It may be also that they need to replace their chain gauge!

 

[irie]

I know nothing about Sram cassettes (always use Shimano), but to my inexperienced eye this looks ugly:

 

[DaveG01]

I know nothing about Sram cassettes (always use Shimano), but to my inexperienced eye this looks ugly:

View attachment 130926

Thanks for your valued input

 

[Mikerb]

It looks like you use the high ( small cogs) a lot and they have the smallest chain wrap so will be the first to cause chain slip ( assuming that is what you are experiencing). If I was you I would use the previous chain ( even if beyond 0.5%) and also check your B tension. As chain and cassette wear it can often work to "close" the B gap a little which will add tension when the chain is at its slackest on those small cogs. As long as the mech still clears the lowest ( biggest cog) you use, the gap can be closed a little. Personally I avoid using gear 1 and gear 12 on an Eagle cassette!

 

[mustclime]

I picked a Kenevo expert this spring, my chain was done in 500 miles. Your cassette looks pretty “sharks toothed “ to me so yes it’s done. 2 things, 1… your biggest cog is alloy, not steel so it wears faster. Try to ride in the lower cogs. My trick is I have my chain keeper adjusted so it drags in the biggest cog to remind me to shift down. 2… buy a chain gauge like the pic. Drop it in your chain every week, it hits .75, replace the chain.
When my cassette is done, I will be changing out the drive train with a box components wide nine e bike setups. The whole rig costs less than the cassette you you need to replace…. All the replacement parts cost much less. 9 speed chain last longer and cost less than 12 speed stuff…. Jmo

 

[RickBullotta]

Shop reckons my cassette needs changing after 800miles. My old eyes can't see enough damage to warrant it. New lower spec cassette also in image for reference. What do you think?

You need a new shop. They're crooks.

 

[steve_sordy]

I know nothing about Sram cassettes (always use Shimano), but to my inexperienced eye this looks ugly:

View attachment 130926

That high contrast image may look ugly, but there is nothing wrong with the teeth I can see.

 

[irie]

I picked a Kenevo expert this spring, my chain was done in 500 miles. Your cassette looks pretty “sharks toothed “ to me so yes it’s done. 2 things, 1… your biggest cog is alloy, not steel so it wears faster. Try to ride in the lower cogs. My trick is I have my chain keeper adjusted so it drags in the biggest cog to remind me to shift down. 2… buy a chain gauge like the pic. Drop it in your chain every week, it hits .75, replace the chain.
When my cassette is done, I will be changing out the drive train with a box components wide nine e bike setups. The whole rig costs less than the cassette you you need to replace…. All the replacement parts cost much less. 9 speed chain last longer and cost less than 12 speed stuff…. Jmo

View attachment 130951

Also have the Park Tool CC2 chain checker. Replace chains when just over 0.5 and well before 0.75.

XTR 10-51 cassette (all I could get at the time) has now done 2,200 miles and just fitted the third chain. Use XTR chains which seem to be very hard wearing. Over 90% off road riding in typical UK South Downs mud and chalk. Don't crash through the gears, but Mrs does (same Trek Rail alloy) and her transmission lasts less than half as long (probably a lesson there somewhere )

 

[Mikerb]

I picked a Kenevo expert this spring, my chain was done in 500 miles. Your cassette looks pretty “sharks toothed “ to me so yes it’s done. 2 things, 1… your biggest cog is alloy, not steel so it wears faster. Try to ride in the lower cogs. My trick is I have my chain keeper adjusted so it drags in the biggest cog to remind me to shift down. 2… buy a chain gauge like the pic. Drop it in your chain every week, it hits .75, replace the chain.
When my cassette is done, I will be changing out the drive train with a box components wide nine e bike setups. The whole rig costs less than the cassette you you need to replace…. All the replacement parts cost much less. 9 speed chain last longer and cost less than 12 speed stuff…. Jmo

View attachment 130951

the only "shark Teeth" on that cassette are the ones that are designed that way.

 

[mustclime]

the only "shark Teeth" on that cassette are the ones that are designed that way.

Look at a new one next to the old one…. As for broken teeth on cassettes , never use to happen when th 8 an 9 speeds. The plates are thicker with the old gear sets. As for it being only a sram issue…. I have seen more than my fair share of bent and broken Shamano cassettes. At least sram doesn’t have micro spline creak. If you change gears like a n00b, you can brake any cassette on an e bike.

 

[Streddaz]

Shop reckons my cassette needs changing after 800miles. My old eyes can't see enough damage to warrant it. New lower spec cassette also in image for reference. What do you think?

View attachment 130920 View attachment 130921

I have found a couple of bike shops in the past changing parts a bit too prematurely, so these days I just do it myself. I have a chain checker and replace the chain once it gets to the 0.7 wear and only replace the cassette if it either slips or the shifting is poor. This usually happens when you put a new chain on, and you will quickly know if the cassette is cooked. I usually get 3 chains to one cassette, and I find that a high-end chain on a cheap (all steel) cassette combo works best.

 

[BIG-DUKE-6]

I’ve bent plenty of big rings over but never snapped a tooth off. That looks more like a rock strike to me .

 

[rzr]

you can also 'downgrade' / upgrade your drivetrain to 11s (cassette, mech, shifter)
PROS:
* can be cheaper (shimano freehub or XD)
* lighter
* rear mech is way smaller (shimano SLX/XT for example), less rock strikes

this is my setup

survived more that 3000km, I've changed cassette (Sunrace 11-46) and XT 11s chain coz it was stretched over .1 (I forgot to run few chains).
at the end it still worked well (no skipping), but I didn't want to ruin front chainring as well.