STEPS E8000 Motor Service

[S13]

In the end I put a thin washer under the C-Clip to reduce the axial play and I also replaced this bearing because it didn't spin as smoothly as the others, I lubricated everything well and for now, after 200 km, everything works as it did when it was new

Hope it remains that way.
I did the same thing with the washer. But for me the grinding would restart after ~500kms. Regreasing would then help again, but the grinding would return faster and faster each time, until the grinding became permanent.

 

[Marc_250]

Just finished my overhaul frustrating....(see below), just done a couple of miles and it's as quiet as it gets but will see how it holds up over a few thousand. There was/is a small crack/hole in the right side of the plastic casing that's been there since this motor was replaced under warranty wonder if it could be why the grease looked so bad. Will stick some epoxy over it before first proper ride.

So the massively frustrating part of the overhaul....put motor back in frame (fortunately only did the minimum to test it would turn on)...pressed on...nothing..dead.

After going over things again and again which ultimately resorted to me reopening the motor but not finding anything to explain why it was dead...thinking call it a day but looks like I somehow terminally damaged something...

Random thought to try another battery (old 500)...turns right on....swap battery back (new 630)...dead again...connect battery to charger then put back on....works....insert many swear words here

 

[Spiff]

Now you can for sure call it a day.

The problem with the 630w battery is a known issue:

Shimano 625W Battery BT-E8016 Issue

Another joke from Shimano: https://www.shimano-steps.com/e-bikes/europe/en/news/important-notice-for-e-bike-battery-bt-E8016-users It says that: "It has been confirmed that there are cases where the bicycle cannot be started after the BT-E8016 battery has been fully charged. If this occurs...

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[Marc_250]

I've never had that issue once so for it to strike when it did

Little over 100 miles since I serviced it and so far so good.

 

[vraykovde]

Hello colleagues, please advise. The shim in the picture is broken, where can i bye one. Its size should be approx. ca.19 x ca.22 x 0.4. The closest that I found is the 16.51 x 21.72 x 0.25-SS, will the smaller inner diameter be a problem? Maybe it will rest on the metal bearing cap.

 

[Marcelitov]

So I ordered the bearings from Simplybearings,
1x NSK 6805Z (this was knackered)
1x NSK 6808D
The bearing puller I ordered, Amazon 4 inch small bearing puller.

You need a torx (star shaped) bit to undo the cover on the case.

To split the case I tapped all the way around with a plastic hammer, put the bolts half way in and tapped on them all the way around, and then using a blunt (round edged) screwdriver to gently part it, without marking the mating faces.

Inside the top cover are two sprung shims, take note of where these go, take out and clean.

Then lift the through axle out, with dead NSK 6805Z bearing attached.

Twist and pull on the two gears (black plastic one and one beside), this will unseat the bearings in the bottom case and they will both lift away. Notice there is a sprung shim under the metal gear side, but not under the black plastic gear.

Then undo the four screws which hold the speed sensor and plastic housing, once this is done you can fold them back out of the way. I was careful not to touch any of the circuitry on the boards, because I know how easy things can get fried.

Then you will see the main drive or final drive that adds assistance when you pedal, this whole unit can be lifted out in one, and consists of speed sender on one end, a one way clutch connecting the final final drive gear, and one NSK 6808D bearing (this bearing was ok on mine). Inside there are 3x needle bearing cartridges, you can remove and clean these and regrease, (one requires a seal to be removed and refitted).

Using small bearing puller, I removed the 6805Z bearing from the axle (a 2penny piece works as a blanking plate on the end of the axle for puller to pull against),

Then after cleaning axle and greasing, using a flat ended punch and a hammer, I gently tapped the inner race of the bearing, little by little turning a quarter turn each tap, until the bearing was seated against the stop.
Do this carefully so as not to damage bearing or axle!

After this is done and all other bearing checked for smoothness, it's simply a matter of patience, I cleaned out all old grease from the case, gears, bearing seats, sprung shims, the one way clutch on the final drive gear, then once everything was clean, regrease everything and reassemble.

I used a strong solvent to clean the mating surfaces of the case, and then used a tiny smear of Blue Hylomar to seal the case.

.........and that's it!

How many clutchs has the motor?

 

[KTMJack]

There is a video on how to replace the bearings Watch it or bad things will happen

 

[Spiff]

How many clutchs has the motor?

They are of the roller type and there are two of them mounted inside the large gears. They are Shimano specific and not available to buy, if they break, then there is no replacement.

One of them allows the cranks to turn backwards relative to the chainring, this clutch is inside the big black gear on the axle. Its purpose is to allow the pedals to rotate more slowly than the chainring in case the motor rotates faster than the rider's pedal strokes.

The second clutch allows the motor to turn freely backwards relative to the chainring, it is located inside the second large metal gear. Its purpose is to allow the motor to turn more slowly than the chainring in case the rider pedals faster than the motor rotations.

They are not available to change, but if necessary they can be disassembled, cleaned and greased, but be careful that you only have to use the specific grease or they will get stuck. You have to take note of how the rollers and springs are mounted and use quality thin needle-nose pliers and tweezers to mount back the rollers and springs in place.

 

[InRustWeTrust]

I have some problems with my e8000, lately it feels like the engine is working too hard to give assist and that it is like a resistance in the engine.

I've been thinking about whether it could be that the engine itself is full of mud and other stuff that causes it to run hard ?

 

[alekseypav]

Hello everyone, there is information that shimano stops producing new batteries for old engines and now there is a problem of what to do. If you open the battery and change the cells yourself, the battery will turn into a brick and will not work. Maybe there is some information on how to bypass the blocking, maybe someone won? Share information for the people.

 

[Spiff]

There is a spanish guy who has changed the cells in Shitmano batteries, the battery do not brick when opened, but it is not an easy task.

 

[alekseypav]

There is a spanish guy who has changed the cells in Shitmano batteries, the battery do not brick when opened, but it is not an easy task.

Did he post instructions on how to do it? maybe have a link?

 

[johnf0246]

Did he post instructions on how to do it? maybe have a link?

Alex I am really curious if someone has taken the Shimano 504wh battery apart to install new batteries. No battery remanufacturer that I have contacted says they can do it.

I have a friend who builds large capacity batteries for his family’s RV’s. He is an electronics expert. He told me he would rebuild my battery for me that lasted 7,000 miles.

When he tried to take it apart he said that Shimano had safeguarded the battery to not allow it to be disassembled. He welded the casing back together and sent it back to me. It only had about 50% capacity, so I bought a new battery.

Please let us know if you are able to rebuild yours.

 

[alekseypav]

Alex I am really curious if someone has taken the Shimano 504wh battery apart to install new batteries. No battery remanufacturer that I have contacted says they can do it.

I have a friend who builds large capacity batteries for his family’s RV’s. He is an electronics expert. He told me he would rebuild my battery for me that lasted 7,000 miles.

When he tried to take it apart he said that Shimano had safeguarded the battery to not allow it to be disassembled. He welded the casing back together and sent it back to me. It only had about 50% capacity, so I bought a new battery.

Please let us know if you are able to rebuild yours.

I accidentally found an office in my city that deals with repacking and assures that they can bypass the lock and reflash. But I won’t do it yet, since my battery is working, I’m just looking for information for the future and I wanted to share it for everyone.

 

[alekseypav]

 

[johnf0246]

I accidentally found an office in my city that deals with repacking and assures that they can bypass the lock and reflash. But I won’t do it yet, since my battery is working, I’m just looking for information for the future and I wanted to share it for everyone.

Alex how much do they charge for the rebuild?

 

[fuikatasio]

Did he post instructions on how to do it? maybe have a link?

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music that you love, upload original content and share it all with friends, family and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

 

[johnf0246]

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music that you love, upload original content and share it all with friends, family and the world on YouTube.

youtube.com

ful is there a video of the rebuilding process of the battery after the case is removed?

 

[fuikatasio]

Sorry, I did not make a video recording the entire process of disassembling and assembling the cells. I promise to do it the next time I have a shimano battery. But I can assure you that removing the battery cells does not imply that the BMS is blocked. I have already made three shimano batteries and I have not had any problem with the bms. It is a very dangerous job if you do not have some knowledge of electronics, especially in the task of removing nickel strips. Very important, once the cells have been replaced and the case closed, the battery must be connected to the original Shimano charger so that it begins to show signs of being alive.

 

[johnf0246]

Sorry, I did not make a video recording the entire process of disassembling and assembling the cells. I promise to do it the next time I have a shimano battery. But I can assure you that removing the battery cells does not imply that the BMS is blocked. I have already made three shimano batteries and I have not had any problem with the bms. It is a very dangerous job if you do not have some knowledge of electronics, especially in the task of removing nickel strips. Very important, once the cells have been replaced and the case closed, the battery must be connected to the original Shimano charger so that it begins to show signs of being alive.

 

[johnf0246]

fu: About how many hours does it take you to dismantle and rebuild the battery. And how much do you spend in new cells and other items to complete the process?

What process do you use in removing the plastic cover?

 

[fuikatasio]

fu: About how many hours does it take you to dismantle and rebuild the battery. And how much do you spend in new cells and other items to complete the process?

What process do you use in removing the plastic cover?

I think you should open a new post so as not to mix the issue of the shimano e8000 motor, with the restoration of shimano battery cells. When you have it open, you link to that new post, and I'll comment on everything you need. I have been able to find enough photographic material of the whole process

 

[Spiff]

I think you should open a new post so as not to mix the issue of the shimano e8000 motor, with the restoration of shimano battery cells. When you have it open, you link to that new post, and I'll comment on everything you need. I have been able to find enough photographic material of the whole process

As I am also very interested in batteries, I followed your suggestion and I just opened the new thread for battery rebuild.

Re-Build ande Re-Cell of Shimano Batteries

There is very interesting information regarding batteries in the thread for E8000 Motor Repair: https://www.emtbforums.com/threads/steps-e8000-motor-service.16542/post-444917 and forum member @fuikatasio has suggested not to mix topics and to open a new thread related only to batteries. I...

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[miguel s]

Hej Hej @brw0513

Ve vašem případě je tento černý malý obojek slepený blátem a rzí.

Pomocí malého šroubováku jej musíte vytlačit krok za krokem.

Límec umožňuje, aby se klika při šlapání neodřela.

Po servisu ho musíte namazat.

 

[S13]

If anyone is looking for a spare parts E8000 motor, ive got one for sale. See topic:

For Sale (PARTS) - E8000 Motor for spare parts

I have a spare E8000 motor laying around gathering dust. Ive bought this E8000 a year a go also for spare parts. The only thing ive exchanged are the 2 small intermediary gear shafts, so the ones that are in this motor now probably shouldnt be used again. Im not sure what the original fault with...

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[norrit]

If anyone is looking for a spare parts E8000 motor, ive got one for sale. See topic:

For Sale (PARTS) - E8000 Motor for spare parts

I have a spare E8000 motor laying around gathering dust. Ive bought this E8000 a year a go also for spare parts. The only thing ive exchanged are the 2 small intermediary gear shafts, so the ones that are in this motor now probably shouldnt be used again. Im not sure what the original fault with...

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100 EUR is okay for me ... need some parts for my quaking engine

 

[S13]

100 EUR is okay for me ... need some parts for my quaking engine

Well Norrit isnt responding, so if anyone else is looking to buy a spare E8000, let me know.

 

[norrit]

sorry did not see your message

the most important part for me is this, because i broke the flat cable
is this still okay in your engine?

 

[S13]

sorry did not see your message

the most important part for me is this, because i broke the flat cable
is this still okay in your engine?
View attachment 116439

I will take a look.

 

[S13]

sorry did not see your message

the most important part for me is this, because i broke the flat cable
is this still okay in your engine?
View attachment 116439

It looks good from the outside, cables are fully intact.

Ive send you a PM last week, take a look at that and let me know how you would like to proceed.