SRAM XX AXS Transmission (T-Type) with Reign E+1 2022?

[LJR69]

Just looking at the new XX (and XO) groupset released by SRAM. I'm curious as to whether it would fit the Reign E+ 1 I have. I'm pretty sure the derailleur will fit given the Reign is UDH compatible, but what about the crankset and cassette?

 

[Yetibos]

Just looking at the new XX (and XO) groupset released by SRAM. I'm curious as to whether it would fit the Reign E+ 1 I have. I'm pretty sure the derailleur will fit given the Reign is UDH compatible, but what about the crankset and cassette?

UDH, yes you can install it.
for cassette you will need XD freehub.
You will need BCD 104 chainring.

 

[LJR69]

UDH, yes you can install it.
for cassette you will need XD freehub.
You will need BCD 104 chainring.

The chainring is BCD 104 on the Reign right?

Edit: I get what you mean now. You mean I need to choose the BCD 104 version of the XX. Got it! Thanks

 

[LJR69]

Did the upgrade today (actually upgraded to the X0, not the XX, as I wanted more durability). Fairly straight forward process. If anyone else finds this post in the future looking to see if it's been done then here are some tips:

1. The Giant Reign E+ is not yet listed in their AXS app, however the settings you will need are Cog 21T (7th gear), chain length 122, and setup key B. This is based on the E+'s chainstay length of 454 and it being a 36T chainring.
2. The hub on the Reign is a modified DT Swiss 370 (3-pawl). It has a steel casing instead of the the usual alloy from DT Swiss. You will need freehub part no. HBDT3869, you will also need the end cap. If you can find the DT Swiss Freehub Conversion kit, it comes with the end cap (I couldn't find any in stock). In the end I picked it up separately from here Note: The end cap is the same for any boost axle (142, or 148), no need to worry what the product description says.
3. Removing the crank arm on the right side means it's a normal right hand thread (counter-clockwise to loosen). As the bolt also acts as a puller it's perfectly normal for it to go loose, then really stiff again - just keep turning until it comes off.
4. Updated: Some people have fitted the new chainring without removing the chainring nut - see posts below.
   Unless you already have the tool, you will need Yamaha PW-X2 chainring spider nut tool to remove the castellated chainring nut. Note: You need to turn the nut CLOCKWISE to undo it! It's very very tight (50NM), I had to use a breaker bar to get the right leverage to crack it off.
5. Follow the video instructions closely - they're well done and very easy to follow.
6. You really need a torque wrench capable of 50NM. The chainring, crank arm, and rear derailleur bolt need to be tightened to 50, 50, 35 NM respectively.
7. Removing the old derailleur cable was an absolute arse of a job. If you think you're just going to undo it, unclip it from in side the battery housing, and then pull....then...good luck!
8. Take your time, follow an instruction, drink some coffee, rinse and repeat

 

[Redlemon]

Did the upgrade today (actually upgraded to the X0, not the XX, as I wanted more durability). Fairly straight forward process. If anyone else finds this post in the future looking to see if it's been done then here are some tips:

That is one hell of a great step by step guide!

Would you mind posting pictures of your Reign E+ with the new Transmission ?

 

[LJR69]

Sure. Here you go

 

[Nomad1]

Did the upgrade today (actually upgraded to the X0, not the XX, as I wanted more durability). Fairly straight forward process. If anyone else finds this post in the future looking to see if it's been done then here are some tips:

1. The Giant Reign E+ is not yet listed in their AXS app, however the settings you will need are Cog 21T (7th gear), chain length 122, and setup key B. This is based on the E+'s chainstay length of 454 and it being a 36T chainring.
2. The hub on the Reign is a modified DT Swiss 370 (3-pawl). It has a steel casing instead of the the usual alloy from DT Swiss. You will need freehub part no. HBDT3869, you will also need the end cap. If you can find the DT Swiss Freehub Conversion kit, it comes with the end cap (I couldn't find any in stock). In the end I picked it up separately from here Note: The end cap is the same for any boost axle (142, or 148), no need to worry what the product description says.
3. Removing the crank arm on the right side means it's a normal right hand thread (counter-clockwise to loosen). As the bolt also acts as a puller it's perfectly normal for it to go loose, then really stiff again - just keep turning until it comes off.
4. Unless you already have the tool, you will need Yamaha PW-X2 chainring spider nut tool to remove the castellated chainring nut. Note: You need to turn the nut CLOCKWISE to undo it! It's very very tight (50NM), I had to use a breaker bar to get the right leverage to crack it off.
5. Follow the video instructions closely - they're well done and very easy to follow.
6. You really need a torque wrench capable of 50NM. The chainring, crank arm, and rear derailleur bolt need to be tightened to 50, 50, 35 NM respectively.
7. Removing the old derailleur cable was an absolute arse of a job. If you think you're just going to undo it, unclip it from in side the battery housing, and then pull....then...good luck!
8. Take your time, follow an instruction, drink some coffee, rinse and repeat

I'm a little confused about the crankarms as there are kits that come without them according to the to the description and only says about the crankarms fitting the Brose and Bosch motors? So wouldn't you just have to replace the front ring and not remove center nut that's behind the crankarm or is not just the ring and includes the center part and or a spacer?

 

[LJR69]

I'm a little confused about the crankarms as there are kits that come without them according to the to the description and only says about the crankarms fitting the Brose and Bosch motors? So wouldn't you just have to replace the front ring and not remove center nut that's behind the crankarm or is not just the ring and includes the center part and or a spacer?

You can get the crank arms that are used on the Bosch. They are ISIS compatible and I spoke to SRAM directly about that. However, the cranks for the e-bike version are not that special looking and so I just stuck with the Praxis (for now) and saved about £160 (UK) as a result.

lol I thought the same, and while you can remove the Praxis chainring without removing the chainring nut, you cannot replace it with the SRAM AXS chainring. The reason is that there is more material toward that centre of the SRAM ring and as such there's not enough room to loop the ring around the back of the spider (like you can with the original Praixs chainring). I tried everything to get it to loop round the back, it was close, but just couldn't make it fit. In the end I removed the spider and sorted it that way.

Here's an image to show what I mean (first image Praxis, second is the SRAM)

 

[Nomad1]

You can get the crank arms that are used on the Bosch. They are ISIS compatible and I spoke to SRAM directly about that. However, the cranks for the e-bike version are not that special looking and so I just stuck with the Praxis (for now) and saved about £160 (UK) as a result.

lol I thought the same, and while you can remove the Praxis chainring without removing the chainring nut, you cannot replace it with the SRAM AXS chainring. The reason is that there is more material toward that centre of the SRAM ring and as such there's not enough room to loop the ring around the back of the spider (like you can with the original Praixs chainring). I tried everything to get it to loop round the back, it was close, but just couldn't make it fit. In the end I removed the spider and sorted it that way.

Here's an image to show what I mean (first image Praxis, second is the SRAM)

View attachment 110699 View attachment 110700

Thanks that explains it and as far as the cranks that was my thinking stock should do just fine for me.

 

[kgoran79]

You can get the crank arms that are used on the Bosch. They are ISIS compatible and I spoke to SRAM directly about that. However, the cranks for the e-bike version are not that special looking and so I just stuck with the Praxis (for now) and saved about £160 (UK) as a result.

lol I thought the same, and while you can remove the Praxis chainring without removing the chainring nut, you cannot replace it with the SRAM AXS chainring. The reason is that there is more material toward that centre of the SRAM ring and as such there's not enough room to loop the ring around the back of the spider (like you can with the original Praixs chainring). I tried everything to get it to loop round the back, it was close, but just couldn't make it fit. In the end I removed the spider and sorted it that way.

Here's an image to show what I mean (first image Praxis, second is the SRAM)

View attachment 110699 View attachment 110700

Is the SRAM chainring also threaded like the praxis one?

 

[LJR69]

Is the SRAM chainring also threaded like the praxis one?

No, it comes with the nuts you need though.

 

[Nomad1]

I order the xx version on backorder estimated delivery date is late June GRRRRRRRRR! So I'm looking forward to its arrival. Hoping they update me and tell me it will be here much sooner! if anybody know of anybody that, has it in stock that can get to me sooner let me know

 

[LJR69]

I order the xx version on backorder estimated delivery date is late June GRRRRRRRRR! So I'm looking forward to its arrival. Hoping they update me and tell me it will be here much sooner! if anybody know of anybody that, has it in stock that can get to me sooner let me know

That's a long wait. They appear to be in stock okay in the UK.

 

[Redlemon]

That's a long wait. They appear to be in stock okay in the UK.

There's stock also in Canada for the regular full kit, but eMTB versions, chainrings or small parts are no where to be found.

 

[Nomad1]

There's stock also in Canada for the regular full kit, but eMTB versions, chainrings or small parts are no where to be found.

Giant did that with the 800 wh battery you had to wait for it to be available here in the US. I think there might be something similar going on with this. It's on order so all I can do is wait and keep checking stock.

 

[rcheliguygb]

Installed XO on my Reign e+1. Absolutely simple.

 

[Nomad1]

Installed XO on my Reign e+1. Absolutely simple.

View attachment 113870

Still waiting here in the US. Enjoy the new setup. Always looking at feedback regarding the system and the app as I'm waiting and any updates that occur.

 

[rcheliguygb]

Just looking at the new XX (and XO) groupset released by SRAM. I'm curious as to whether it would fit the Reign E+ 1 I have. I'm pretty sure the derailleur will fit given the Reign is UDH compatible, but what about the crankset and cassette?

You don’t need the crankset. Just the chainring version. Must have XD driver on your rear wheel hub.

 

[Nomad1]

You don’t need the crankset. Just the chainring version. Must have XD driver on your rear wheel hub.

Just to clarify you do need the front chainring crank arms are optional.

 

[LJR69]

Just to clarify you do need the front chainring crank arms are optional.

That's correct!

 

[martin_m_bo]

Can you use the old AXS remote controller with the transmisson `? someone know `?

 

[LJR69]

Yes. The AXS pod controllers and AXS controllers are compatible with each other

 

[M AP]

You can get the crank arms that are used on the Bosch. They are ISIS compatible and I spoke to SRAM directly about that. However, the cranks for the e-bike version are not that special looking and so I just stuck with the Praxis (for now) and saved about £160 (UK) as a result.

lol I thought the same, and while you can remove the Praxis chainring without removing the chainring nut, you cannot replace it with the SRAM AXS chainring. The reason is that there is more material toward that centre of the SRAM ring and as such there's not enough room to loop the ring around the back of the spider (like you can with the original Praixs chainring). I tried everything to get it to loop round the back, it was close, but just couldn't make it fit. In the end I removed the spider and sorted it that way.

Here's an image to show what I mean (first image Praxis, second is the SRAM)

View attachment 110699 View attachment 110700

Great step to step guide. Unfortunately I fount it too late and I had already mounted AXS XO on my Reign E+0. I don't know if the center nut (the center spider) is the same in the E+0 but I was able to install the SRAM X0 chainring without removing the center nut. It was not easy, I have to say, but after a few tries It went into position.

 

[Nomad1]

Great step to step guide. Unfortunately I fount it too late and I had already mounted AXS XO on my Reign E+0. I don't know if the center nut (the center spider) is the same in the E+0 but I was able to install the SRAM X0 chainring without removing the center nut. It was not easy, I have to say, but after a few tries It went into position.

Did you have to bend anything to get it on? I got the tool to do mine when it comes in. Be good to know that you do can do it without it if just takes more time and doesn't risk damage.

 

[M AP]

Did you have to bend anything to get it on? I got the tool to do mine when it comes in. Be good to know that you do can do it without it if just takes more time and doesn't risk damage.

No nothing to bend. I just took the pedal off and slid the chainring in place. Then I screwed it to the spider with the 4 provided screws.

 

[Nomad1]

No nothing to bend. I just took the pedal off and slid the chainring in place. Then I screwed it to the spider with the 4 provided screws.

So the same way I took my original off to thoroughly clear it to set it up to run wax. I may just try that when my transmission comes in although I have the tool because my understanding is the new ring can't be done that way.

 

[M AP]

I do really love the X0 AXS overall but I still have an unresolve issue which is making me crazy. The derailleur changes smoothly and there're no issues even switching under effort.
The only issue I have is that while in cog #9, 10, and less in cog #11 while pedaling under effort I hear a rattling noise as if the derailleur was trying to jump cog but in fact it is not. In cog 12 (the largest) and in all other cogs this is not happening. I tried to use the micro adjustment and I've reduced this behavior a lot but not totally eliminated it. I even had the doubt that the noise could not come from the derailleur/cassette but from the chainring but everything seems fine there. I re-adjusted the all set following SRAM instructions and played with the micro adjustment from the pod controller but still haven't totally resolved it . Any suggestion folks?

 

[LJR69]

So the same way I took my original off to thoroughly clear it to set it up to run wax. I may just try that when my transmission comes in although I have the tool because my understanding is the new ring can't be done that way.

I used the tool but didn’t take the pedals off the crank. It wasn’t the pedals that got in the way for me but it was tight trying to get the new chain ring over the yoke. Like I mentioned it was close but I really didn’t want to force anything so I just used the tool. Good to know though that you can do it without the tool if needed.

I do really love the X0 AXS overall but I still have an unresolve issue which is making me crazy. The derailleur changes smoothly and there're no issues even switching under effort.
The only issue I have is that while in cog #9, 10, and less in cog #11 while pedaling under effort I hear a rattling noise as if the derailleur was trying to jump cog but in fact it is not. In cog 12 (the largest) and in all other cogs this is not happening. I tried to use the micro adjustment and I've reduced this behavior a lot but not totally eliminated it. I even had the doubt that the noise could not come from the derailleur/cassette but from the chainring but everything seems fine there. I re-adjusted the all set following SRAM instructions and played with the micro adjustment from the pod controller but still haven't totally resolved it . Any suggestion folks?

I had a similar issue with gear 7. I fixed it by ensuring that my adjustments were made while under sag. It’s really important thst you don’t make them while the bike is on the stand. Since then. Perfect!

 

[Nomad1]

I received word ... Ok it was text my transmission is being shipped!!!

 

[rcheliguygb]

I do really love the X0 AXS overall but I still have an unresolve issue which is making me crazy. The derailleur changes smoothly and there're no issues even switching under effort.
The only issue I have is that while in cog #9, 10, and less in cog #11 while pedaling under effort I hear a rattling noise as if the derailleur was trying to jump cog but in fact it is not. In cog 12 (the largest) and in all other cogs this is not happening. I tried to use the micro adjustment and I've reduced this behavior a lot but not totally eliminated it. I even had the doubt that the noise could not come from the derailleur/cassette but from the chainring but everything seems fine there. I re-adjusted the all set following SRAM instructions and played with the micro adjustment from the pod controller but still haven't totally resolved it . Any suggestion folks?

Make sure that the axle width is 148. Mine had the wrong XD driver end cap making it 150. This was a mistake by the LBS who changed my hub for shimano to sram.