Review Shimano Linkglide 10 speed drivetrain.

[cozzy]

Not sure on the quality of the derailleur and the shifter, but given how mine were working its an improvement at the moment. See how we get on with this.

If you had seen my cues review in this forum I 100% suggested not to buy the poor quality u6000 parts. Cassette is solid though.
The 10 speed deore linkglide mech and shifter work fine with the 48 cassette, despite Shimano saying max 43.

 

[rhythm_101]

Just ordered the 10 speed Linkglide with the XT 11 speed shifter:
LG 400 cass 11-43 (as I realised I don't and won't ever need 50T)
M5130 Deore derailleur
M8130 XT shifter
LG 500 chain.

All in £160.. BUT those nice people at Nationwide Building Society are giving me a £100 for being a mortgage holder with them. Or in other words cost to me £60. Ive been umm-ing and arrrr-ing over going for the 11speed XT Linkglide but to be honest I just don't think I'll ever use the larger sprockets on the cass. (I cleaned the 12speed SRAM that's on the bike this morning and the largest 50t has never been touched and the next one down 42 (I think) doesn't show any wear, but I know I have used it (maybe twice), so the new 11-43 should be bang on for my needs, and there's always Turbo anyway.

Sorry to dig up an old post, but how did you get on with the deore 10sp LG rear mech and XT 11 speed LG shifter? I would prefer a better quality 11 sp shifter, but I destroy rear mechs, so knowing that the cheaper Deore 10sp version works would be a great compromise,

Cheers

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

Sorry to dig up an old post, but how did you get on with the deore 10sp LG rear mech and XT 11 speed LG shifter? I would prefer a better quality 11 sp shifter, but I destroy rear mechs, so knowing that the cheaper Deore 10sp version works would be a great compromise,

Cheers

Yes it's fitted and all good. The only problem you'll probably run into is the original B screw is laughably short. I pinched the screw out of the SRAM derailleur I replaced (don't forget to swap over the small friction block before installing the longer screw).

When installed it's just a case of limiting the upper and lower screws to get the correct cassette range, and setting the B screw. The 11sp XT shifter works fine with the 10spd Deore derailleur. The shifter has single downshifts (going to a larger sprocket, easier pedalling) if using your forefinger, or double shifts if using your thumb. Which is great.

Shifting is a little slower, say 0.2 seconds which takes a while to compute that you need the pressure off the pedals slightly longer than normal, but once keyed in, it's a smooth firm shift. First ride setting the gear cable tension is also critical but easily done whilst riding, the drivetrain taking about 15 miles to bed in, it gets much smoother after those initial first miles and you change your 'off pedal pressure timing'. Single half shifts with the thumb (to a larger cog) aren't super accurate but work as your guessing the single shift point (bar the full double shift from the thumb).
Changing gear on techy climbs is WAY easier with the double shift, two full presses and you've moved 4 (over the NX shifter I had before) and being a 10spd and not a 12spd thats bloody fantastic for gradient changes. Here's a few pics:

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

I forgot to add, you will need a spacer between the hub and cassette (you will probably already have one fitted on the HG driver). Ensure it's on before torquing up to 40NM!

 

[rhythm_101]

@Amber Valley Guy thanks for the detailed reply, this will definitely be my go to groupset when I build the bike!

Sam

 

[Nyim]

Certainly glad of the 48t on my 10 speed linkglide today grinding to the top of okeford bikepark after 15 runs.
No way would I be getting up there with smaller cogs.
Different requirements for different people doing different riding.

Out of interest hows the Deore still going with the 48T? Hasn't packed a sad yet?
I'm thinking of fitting your combo. What size chainring do you have a front also?

 

[cozzy]

Out of interest hows the Deore still going with the 48T? Hasn't packed a sad yet?
I'm thinking of fitting your combo. What size chainring do you have a front also?

The cassette is over a year old now and still working fine. Quite remarkable when i could burn out the 12t cog on an expensive sram cassette in under 6 months rendering it scrap.
Running the m5130 linkglide deore mech and shifter on 2 bikes.
I actually really like the dorky shift indicator window as well. Ive put a dab of white paint on it to highlight when its in the 13t cog as this is my preferred gear at the bikepark when pedalling off the ramp. Saves craning my neck round to look at it.
The sl has a 32t.
The full power a 34t.

 

[Spin]

I'm on my second chain and LG400 cassette since starting this thread. Getting close to 1500kms on this pair and still shifting clean and crisp.
I plan to run them into the ground.
LG is proving to be ridiculously durable !

 

[DieBoy]

Thanks for the long-term reports.

Will definitely move to linkglide when my current cassette wears out, but Deore not Cues.

Is anyone using non shimano linkglide chains (other brand 11 speed) on this type of setup?

 

[Ride 2d@y]

My Kenevo Comp came with Linkglide, and yes shifting is slower than hyperglide -

However, I broke my XT 11-speed Linkglide rear derailleur so I fitted 10 speed Deore 11-46 system which I like better

 

[cozzy]

My 13t started to skip at the bikepark today. Its been a year so happy with that.
I have a new 10 speed 11/48 ready to fit that cost £47.

Ideally though i would buy a 13t sprocket and just swap that out, but they appear to be very hard to source, or are silly expensive at around £15 on ebay.

EDIT i swapped cassettes today and was hoping to take a picture to compare the old v new 13t, but it was minimal, hard to capture.
Ive kept the old cassette in case i can find the 13t part no. Y0RG9802T at a reasonable price.
But if i need a new £47 cassette each year, im not going to sweat it.

 

[cozzy]

Took a big hit at the park today and exploded, luckily near the end of the session.
New one ordered from banana industries, who i have never used before and have doubts about , but it was £25 with postage.
Sure glad i don't have one of them daft expensive electric sram mechs!
Usually break one each year so right on track.

 

[johnnystorm]

Took a big hit at the park today and exploded, luckily near the end of the session.
New one ordered from banana industries, who i have never used before and have doubts about , but it was £25 with postage.
Sure glad i don't have one of them daft expensive electric sram mechs!
Usually break one each year so right on track.
View attachment 151762

Banana Industries is run by Dave, the original guy behind Planet X.

 

[cozzy]

Banana Industries is run by Dave, the original guy behind Planet X.

Good info thank you. Sounds well suspect plus being 1/2 the price of the usual online places, so thats reassuring to know cheers.

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

Took a big hit at the park today and exploded, luckily near the end of the session.
New one ordered from banana industries, who i have never used before and have doubts about , but it was £25 with postage.
Sure glad i don't have one of them daft expensive electric sram mechs!
Usually break one each year so right on track.
View attachment 151762

Other than smashing your 5130, how are you finding Linkglide? I ask because after being out on my Moterra today I asked myself the same question....and I decided I wouldn't go back and for the price it's a no brainer....and I don't miss not having the 2 extra sprockets.

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

Ran into the first problem with the Shimano M5130 short cage mech today. I removed the rear wheel (easy), put a new tyre on the wheel but getting it back in was a 100% PITA. I ended up removing the derailleur slipping the chain on the smallest cog, got the wheel in then re-fitted the derailleur.
Anyone have any tips on getting the wheel back in? I tried all the usual methods of pulling the jockey wheel forward, taking the chain off the chainring etc but to no avail.... I needed a third hand as I couldn't hold the wheel, pull the mech forward and fit the chain all at the same time. I was using a bike work stand..is it easier with the bike upside down with Shimano mechs (as they don't have a SRAM type wheel change lockout)?

 

[Spin]

Maybe removing the chain would be the simplest way around this ? I assume you are moving the clutch lever forward to ease the tension on the cage ?
The mech can be a handful to pull back and refit the wheel at the same time but that's how I do it. I don't use a regular work stand though. I hate those things and don't know how most people put up with the bike flopping around while you're trying to work on it.
My basic , home made stand....

 

[Bndit]

Ran into the first problem with the Shimano M5130 short cage mech today. I removed the rear wheel (easy), put a new tyre on the wheel but getting it back in was a 100% PITA. I ended up removing the derailleur slipping the chain on the smallest cog, got the wheel in then re-fitted the derailleur.
Anyone have any tips on getting the wheel back in? I tried all the usual methods of pulling the jockey wheel forward, taking the chain off the chainring etc but to no avail.... I needed a third hand as I couldn't hold the wheel, pull the mech forward and fit the chain all at the same time. I was using a bike work stand..is it easier with the bike upside down with Shimano mechs (as they don't have a SRAM type wheel change lockout)?

I was working on my kids new bikes and I tought I'll do a video for you how to remove and install wheel. Sorry for the quality, it was one shot and first time I removed this wheel, axle was tighter than expected - YouTube

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

I was working on my kids new bikes and I tought I'll do a video for you how to remove and install wheel. Sorry for the quality, it was one shot and first time I removed this wheel, axle was tighter than expected - YouTube

Yes that's the normal procedure but it doesn't work on my bike and I've found the problem.

 

[Amber Valley Guy]

Found the problem.
Take a look at these pictures, the spoke magnet pickup sensor ( on the inside of the chain stay) gets in the way as it sits further in than the tyre width. So to get my wheel back in I have to get the tyre past the speed sensor which then pushes the wheel into the other chain stay, making it bloody difficult if not impossible to pop the chain back on and line the rotor up with the pads at the same time. The SRAM mech had more movement than the Shimano which is why I didn't have a problem before..I could pull the top jockey wheel up a bit.