Rise Up - What are your upgrades?

[UK Orb Riser]

Nice upgrades everyone! I actually have been riding my regular bike more lately and haven’t ridden the new white Rise yet. But I have been collecting some parts

My Rise got an oem Fox 36, and will get shimano 160mm cranks, Fox transfer, fender, kabolt and factory tune Float X. I’ve spoken to Fox and their factory tune works well with the Rise kinematics if you are planning to upgrade.

AAANDD… built my wife a small Rise! Most of the parts were from her Scott Ransom. As pictured is 40.5lb. Can’t wait to take these two bikes out!

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Hi

Out of interest how tall is your Wife,also looking at getting a rise for my wife.

 

[enewb]

Hi

Out of interest how tall is your Wife,also looking at getting a rise for my wife.

Hi,
My wife is only 5’1” (155cm), but her inseam is around 29”. So she can flat foot with knees bent when seat is dropped.

The small size rise has a short seat tube and low slung top tube, so it will fit shorter people just fine. Have her sit on one if your local shop has… be ready to pay

 

[UK Orb Riser]

Hi,
My wife is only 5’1” (155cm), but her inseam is around 29”. So she can flat foot with knees bent when seat is dropped.

The small size rise has a short seat tube and low slung top tube, so it will fit shorter people just fine. Have her sit on one if your local shop has… be ready to pay

Thanks for that,she's 5'0 and currently rides an XS Liv Intrigue E+1 Pro. The bikes great but my God is it heavy 24kg+. It's also me that has to get it on the top of a BMW X5 !!!!

 

[enewb]

Slap a receiver hitch and rack on that bimmer and save your back buddy!

Yeah that Liv intrigue was on my short list for my wife. But after she hopped on my medium Rise, no way she would be okay with the extra heft of the FF bikes.

 

[UK Orb Riser]

TE="enewb, post: 340957, member: 16894"]
Slap a receiver hitch and rack on that bimmer and save your back buddy!

Yeah that Liv intrigue was on my short list for my wife. But after she hopped on my medium Rise, no way she would be okay with the extra heft of the FF bikes.
[/QUOTE]

I have a rear rack as well but we also tow a Caravan for holidays so they gotta be up top.
I think a Rise will be on her Christmas list for next year.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

Got my XL M20 last week and I've been changing parts out. Still a lot more to do, but getting there.

Changes so far:
-2022 Fox 36 Factory
-Code RSC brakes with 200mm Rotors
-GX Eagle Derailleur with X01 eagle shifter. Still using the shimano SLX chain and Cassette
-oneup 210mm dropper shimmed down to 190 w/wtb volt wide sized saddle
-one up 35mm rise carbon handlebars w/raceface turbine stem
-DT EX511/XM 481 wheelset on dt 350 hubs
-2.5" 3c Maxx Grip Assegai in front, 2.4" DD DHR2 in back with cushcore XC
-Kona Wah Wah Pedals

Stuff still to do:
-Rear shock upgrade

 

[hdqboss]

Is the M10 also centre lock?

In one of the above pictures, the rotor is the Galfer DB004W2, which I think is a 6-bolt, is it not?

No, they are 6 bolt.

 

[javifoto70]

My Rise M10 size L has already 425km in just a month since I receive it. I made my upgrades clearly focused on making it even more lightweight and lively to improve its handling when going uphill over tough rocky singletracks while keeping its stunning downhill capabilities. These are my upgrades:
-Integrated handlebar-stem in a single carbon fibber part with virtually the same geometry of the OEM Race Face. I save 160gr.
-XTR 10-51T cassette, I save 160gr
-Carbon fibber seat, I save 140gr
-Speedsafe 29" carbon fiber wheels (very robust carbon rims 36/30mm wide), I save 470gr
-Real tyre Specialized Eliminator Grid Trail 2Bliss Ready T7 29x2.3, this adds 160gr over OEM Maxxis Rekon but is much more robust and provides more confidence on bends and jumps

Original weight was 18,7kgs including XT pedals
Total weight saving 770gr
Actually weights 17,9kgs including pedals

The weight lost on wheels is clearly noticable, it accelerates easier and faster, the handlebar feels very fast on bends and the reactions are very quick and very precise. The only minor downpart is it feels a bit more rigid and less supple on rockgardens due to the carbon fibber rims and handlebar stiffness but with a reasonably low pressure on the tires and the fanstastic Fox fork is perfectly usable.

 

[javifoto70]

Here a couple of pictures

 

[ebsocalmtb]

@javifoto70 did your bike come with the float X rear shock or did you change it from a dpx2?

 

[javifoto70]

I received my bike end of October and it came with the Fox Float X rear shock whether on the Orbea specs it was supposed to include the old DPX2.
I am obviously very happy with it, in fact the absortion is very good and over old models I notice it is very soft and progressive and resist very well the bottom out without producing that hard impact.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

I received my bike end of October and it came with the Fox Float X rear shock whether on the Orbea specs it was supposed to include the old DPX2.
I am obviously very happy with it, in fact the absortion is very good and over old models I notice it is very soft and progressive and resist very well the bottom out without producing that hard impact.

Awesome! can you please post up the 4 digit, custom tune ID code from that float X? I want to order one of those from fox and I'm curious with the tune Orbea specifies for that shock.

 

[javifoto70]

This afternoon I have been looking for the shock 4 digit code but I have not been able to find it. I found the QR code and serial number of the fork but not the one you need. I will try again but initially I did not saw it. What I have learned is both the Fork and the shock are 2022 models.

 

[PaPaYoU]

Let me show you my M20

Frame: Orbea rise M

Fork: Rockshox Lyrik Ultimate 160 mm

Shock: Rockshox super deluxe ultimate 210x55

Wheelset: Dtswiss XM1700 29x30

Tyres:

Front Schwalbe Hans dampf 29x2,35 Supertrail addix soft

Rear Schwalbe Rock Razor 29x2,35 Speedgrip

Brakes: Shimano XT 4 pot

Rotors: Shimano XTR 203mm Front, 180mm Rear

Handlebar: oneup carbon 780x35

Stem: Oneup 35 mm

Grips: Sqlab 70x

Seatpost: Yep Components Uptimizer 3.0 185 mm

Saddle: SQLAB 611 Ergowave Active 2.1 S-Tube 280 x 140

Shifter: SLX 12 speed

Rear Mech: SLX 12 speed

Chain: Shimano 6100

Cassette: SLX 10-51t

Pedals: Hope F20



Bike weight:19,4 kg

 

[donovan888]

-Integrated handlebar-stem in a single carbon fibber part with virtually the same geometry of the OEM Race Face. I save 160gr.

Can you please give more info about integrated handlebar-stem?
Sound like a good weight loss, my M10 just arrived and looking to cut down on weight...

Thank you in advance.

 

[javifoto70]

I bought the integrated handlebar here
35.34￡ |Manillar de fibra de carbono mate UD para bicicleta de montaña, barra y vástago integrados, ángulos de 2 grados, envío gratis, nuevo|Manillar de bicicleta| - AliExpress

I have been with it for more than 500kms with a lot of technical trails and downhill and it is perfect, although I must sayit is more rigid than a normal aluminum one and therefore more uncomfortable. But coupled with the lightweight wheel it gives tremendous agility and steering precision. If you are looking for comfort for very stony areas maybe it is not ideal.

Anyway on any bike or motorcycle where the weight reduction is most notable is on the wheels for three reasons:
1) because they are the parts furthest away from the center of gravity
2) because they are what we must spin, accelerate and they directly affect agility, stability, braking, suspension operation and cornering
3) because they are non-suspended elements that directly affect suspension performance

In my case, the two wheels with a 36mm outer / 30mm inner rim width they weight 1360g. In addition, I have left the original 2.4 front tire, which is perfect for me and it has not given me a scare both in very dry and sandy terrain and in humid forest (but not muddy). At the back I have mounted a resistant tire but of 2,3 and 960gr.

The other components I have replaced are very light: carbon saddle weighs 133 grams, Shimano XTR cassette 367gr. In total between wheels and components I have reduced about 750gr from the original M10 size L

 

[Endurip]

Nice PaPaYoU. Really interested in your damper upgrade. Didn't you need any offset bushings for the ultimate 210x55 damper? Huw much did it rise the bb?

 

[donovan888]

I bought the integrated handlebar here
35.34￡ |Manillar de fibra de carbono mate UD para bicicleta de montaña, barra y vástago integrados, ángulos de 2 grados, envío gratis, nuevo|Manillar de bicicleta| - AliExpress

I have been with it for more than 500kms with a lot of technical trails and downhill and it is perfect, although I must sayit is more rigid than a normal aluminum one and therefore more uncomfortable. But coupled with the lightweight wheel it gives tremendous agility and steering precision. If you are looking for comfort for very stony areas maybe it is not ideal.

Anyway on any bike or motorcycle where the weight reduction is most notable is on the wheels for three reasons:
1) because they are the parts furthest away from the center of gravity
2) because they are what we must spin, accelerate and they directly affect agility, stability, braking, suspension operation and cornering
3) because they are non-suspended elements that directly affect suspension performance

In my case, the two wheels with a 36mm outer / 30mm inner rim width they weight 1360g. In addition, I have left the original 2.4 front tire, which is perfect for me and it has not given me a scare both in very dry and sandy terrain and in humid forest (but not muddy). At the back I have mounted a resistant tire but of 2,3 and 960gr.

The other components I have replaced are very light: carbon saddle weighs 133 grams, Shimano XTR cassette 367gr. In total between wheels and components I have reduced about 750gr from the original M10 size L

Much appreciated - thank you for detailed explanation.

Can you please also provide link for Speedsafe 29" carbon fiber wheels? I want to be sure I buy the exact same ones...

Also, did you changed dropper post? I've been looking to replace Orbea which weighs 572g (measured it myself) without remote and cable.
I've been looking: KS LEV CI 31.6 Remote Carbon Dropper Seatpost

https://www.bike24.com/p2378733.html

Is there a lighter dropper post on market? For me 150 mm travel is enough.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

Nice PaPaYoU. Really interested in your damper upgrade. Didn't you need any offset bushings for the ultimate 210x55 damper? Huw much did it rise the bb?

His shock is 210x55 which is the stock size, no offset bushing needed. People that are using offset bushings, are using 216x63mm shocks and long shocking the bike for extra travel.

 

[Endurip]

His shock is 210x55 which is the stock size, no offset bushing needed. People that are using offset bushings, are using 216x63mm shocks and long shocking the bike for extra travel.

ok thanks. I would like to bump up the travel to 160 but all I´we seen so far is mullet 160, which I prefer not to. Will 216 x63 mm give around 160 mm?

 

[ebsocalmtb]

ok thanks. I would like to bump up the travel to 160 but all I´we seen so far is mullet 160, which I prefer not to. Will 216 x63 mm give around 160 mm?

It will give you 160mm +/-. I would suggest offset bushings to bring the bb height back in line and maintain close to the stock geometry. Be wary of which shock you buy for this bike, many people on the orbea rise facebook page with coil shocks are having issues with the shocks rubbing the bottom of the top tube. It seems that only the 2.4" fox SLS springs fit without issue. Also take note, that shocks have different internal valving (tuning) and aftermarket shocks or shocks from other bikes will have different tunes.

I have upgraded rear shocks and long shocked many bikes in my past... most, in reality, do not perform significantly better then the oem shock tune that has a lot of time and tuning put into it by orbea. My suggestion, would be to get the volume reducers tuned correctly for how you want it to feel. If you get the proper setup, the bike should feel rather bottomless.

 

[Endurip]

It will give you 160mm +/-. I would suggest offset bushings to bring the bb height back in line and maintain close to the stock geometry. Be wary of which shock you buy for this bike, many people on the orbea rise facebook page with coil shocks are having issues with the shocks rubbing the bottom of the top tube. It seems that only the 2.4" fox SLS springs fit without issue. Also take note, that shocks have different internal valving (tuning) and aftermarket shocks or shocks from other bikes will have different tunes.

I have upgraded rear shocks and long shocked many bikes in my past... most, in reality, do not perform significantly better then the oem shock tune that has a lot of time and tuning put into it by orbea. My suggestion, would be to get the volume reducers tuned correctly for how you want it to feel. If you get the proper setup, the bike should feel rather bottomless.

By volume reducers, du you mean spacers? I bought a few for the original shock and it made a huge difference. Still feels like I would need more traven, and rise the bb a bit to avoid pedal strikes (I´m getting better at avoiding, but stil..).

 

[ebsocalmtb]

By volume reducers, du you mean spacers? I bought a few for the original shock and it made a huge difference. Still feels like I would need more traven, and rise the bb a bit to avoid pedal strikes (I´m getting better at avoiding, but stil..).

Yes, the spacers that are internal to the shock in the air can. Orbea ships these bikes with a .2cc reducer and they provide a .4cc spacer in the box with the bike... most bike shops don't transfer that and throw it out. That being said, I am 175lbs, ride very agressively, and I am running the .6cc volume reducer in the dps shock that's on my m20. I've got a floatX on the way... but using the stock dps for now.

I do get pedal strikes on this bike, more then other bikes with the same bb height. I'm guessing it has to do with the very light compression tune that orbea specifies on the DPS/DPX2 shocks. I'm not working on getting mine setup so that I can run the compression in the medium setting to see if that helps.

 

[Endurip]

Yes, the spacers that are internal to the shock in the air can. Orbea ships these bikes with a .2cc reducer and they provide a .4cc spacer in the box with the bike... most bike shops don't transfer that and throw it out. That being said, I am 175lbs, ride very agressively, and I am running the .6cc volume reducer in the dps shock that's on my m20. I've got a floatX on the way... but using the stock dps for now.

I do get pedal strikes on this bike, more then other bikes with the same bb height. I'm guessing it has to do with the very light compression tune that orbea specifies on the DPS/DPX2 shocks. I'm not working on getting mine setup so that I can run the compression in the medium setting to see if that helps.

Yeah Iwe noticed that the compression feels much "lighter" than many other bikes. I think I went for the yellow spacer in the shock ( If I remember correct) At aprox 82 kilo I was bottoming out all the time before. Now I still do but not that easy. In normal trail riding without jumps I use around 99% (the ring is at the end but moves half a millimeter more when bottoming out). It feels really good but once the trail gets more dh-ish and rough, It feels like its to short travel.

 

[javifoto70]

Much appreciated - thank you for detailed explanation.

Can you please also provide link for Speedsafe 29" carbon fiber wheels? I want to be sure I buy the exact same ones...

Also, did you changed dropper post? I've been looking to replace Orbea which weighs 572g (measured it myself) without remote and cable.
I've been looking: KS LEV CI 31.6 Remote Carbon Dropper Seatpost

https://www.bike24.com/p2378733.html

Is there a lighter dropper post on market? For me 150 mm travel is enough.

I bought the wheelset from Bruve Bikes in the Canary Islands, they are super attentive and they mount carbon wheels on demand, they advise you and they offer you according to what you want. I ordered them a strong enduro rim but mounted lightly. They recommended this set-up that they have tested on their Enduro bikes, not ebike, that are over 15kg, since the Rise stays at 18kg and I don't do Enduro, it seemed like a good choice.
I cannot give you the specific link becuase they are custom made for me but this is the manufacturer link

Envío gratuito en RUEDAS MTB y más en - ruedas de seguridad

Compre a bajo precio, alta calidad RUEDAS MTB en ruedas de seguridad y más

www.speedsafewheels.com

And this is Bruve Bikes contact [email protected]
You can contact a guy named Francisco on behalf or me, my name is Javier Valderrama

 

[Chicane]

It will give you 160mm +/-. I would suggest offset bushings to bring the bb height back in line and maintain close to the stock geometry.

I disagree and feel that running the fork at 160 gives this bike the extra/needed BB clearance, while reducing pedal strikes. I have also noticed no difference in the bikes riding characteristics when increasing the front travel to 160 and no offset bushing is needed.

 

[Endurip]

I disagree and feel that running the fork at 160 gives this bike the extra/needed BB clearance, while reducing pedal strikes. I have also noticed no difference in the bikes riding characteristics when increasing the front travel to 160 and no offset bushing is needed.

It seems hard to find an air shock around 160 mm that fits. Everyone seems to go with coil...

 

[ebsocalmtb]

I disagree and feel that running the fork at 160 gives this bike the extra/needed BB clearance, while reducing pedal strikes. I have also noticed no difference in the bikes riding characteristics when increasing the front travel to 160 and no offset bushing is needed.

What exactly do you disagree with? Using offset bushings in a 216x63mm shock (long shocked)? I never made any comments about putting a longer fork on these bikes. I would say that doing that is extremely situational and based on the riders fit dimensions and weight. For example, with my 6'3" lanky ass body on my XL rise... the slackening of the seat tube angle and the increase in front end height is not worth the extra 10mm of travel. The flat/undulating and climbing trail performance is impacted more then the descending performance is improved and as a result, it's not a trade off that I feel is beneficial to my usage of the bike.

It may also be not the best idea for riders with other circumstances at play, for example a light weight rider that has trouble accessing the last 10-15mm of travel on a longer travel fork with a very progressive air spring (2018 - 2020 fox 36, RS zeb). With the volume of air chamber and the resulting compression ratio of the positive chamber in some of these forks... the air spring can be so progressive, that if you are under 150lbs, there is no way to put enough energy into the fork/frame to overcome the compression ratio. The new fox 36 is better in this regard then the 2018-2020 model, so most m10 owners will be ok... but if you are 140lbs with a 2021 fox 36, there's a good chance running zero volume reducers is your only option... which it's never totally great to be bottomed out on any of the tuning methods if you can avoid it.

I digress... that doesn't mean you still wouldn't make the fork trade off... however in those cases, what you are doing is changing both static and dynamic ride height. Which has some traits that may be beneficial to some and detrimental to others. It's akin to raising the triples/bar height on a triple clamp fork. Even though those light weight riders may still only get 150mm of travel out of a 160mm fork, the increased bar height, bb height and slacker hta may be beneficial. For me, this would be very situational and the fit dimension changes of the longer travel fork would come into play once the descent gets steeper then -15%.

Regarding noticing no difference in riding characteristics... I absolutely notice 10mm of increased axle to crown. I also very, very much notice 5mm of bb height adjustments. Everyone is different, so to make a blanket statement that everyone should just throw a 160mm fork on this bike, ignores the specific constraints that an individual rider may have.

 

[Chicane]

What exactly do you disagree with? Using offset bushings in a 216x63mm shock (long shocked)? I never made any comments about putting a longer fork on these bikes. I would say that doing that is extremely situational and based on the riders fit dimensions and weight. For example, with my 6'3" lanky ass body on my XL rise... the slackening of the seat tube angle and the increase in front end height is not worth the extra 10mm of travel. The flat/undulating and climbing trail performance is impacted more then the descending performance is improved and as a result, it's not a trade off that I feel is beneficial to my usage of the bike.

It may also be not the best idea for riders with other circumstances at play, for example a light weight rider that has trouble accessing the last 10-15mm of travel on a longer travel fork with a very progressive air spring (2018 - 2020 fox 36, RS zeb). With the volume of air chamber and the resulting compression ratio of the positive chamber in some of these forks... the air spring can be so progressive, that if you are under 150lbs, there is no way to put enough energy into the fork/frame to overcome the compression ratio. The new fox 36 is better in this regard then the 2018-2020 model, so most m10 owners will be ok... but if you are 140lbs with a 2021 fox 36, there's a good chance running zero volume reducers is your only option... which it's never totally great to be bottomed out on any of the tuning methods if you can avoid it.

I digress... that doesn't mean you still wouldn't make the fork trade off... however in those cases, what you are doing is changing both static and dynamic ride height. Which has some traits that may be beneficial to some and detrimental to others. It's akin to raising the triples/bar height on a triple clamp fork. Even though those light weight riders may still only get 150mm of travel out of a 160mm fork, the increased bar height, bb height and slacker hta may be beneficial. For me, this would be very situational and the fit dimension changes of the longer travel fork would come into play once the descent gets steeper then -15%.

Regarding noticing no difference in riding characteristics... I absolutely notice 10mm of increased axle to crown. I also very, very much notice 5mm of bb height adjustments. Everyone is different, so to make a blanket statement that everyone should just throw a 160mm fork on this bike, ignores the specific constraints that an individual rider may have.

I’m speaking of 160 front, not the rear and your average rider won’t tell a difference raising the front 10mm. You must be a pro! Your average rider will notice less pedal strikes though.

 

[ebsocalmtb]

You must be a pro! Your average rider will notice less pedal strikes though.

Used to dabble, yes. Now I'm 40... so I'm a washed-up has-been old bugger.