Rail (750Wh) Rail 9.8XT first ride review

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,467
1,593
Newquay
I deliberated long and hard about buying another eBike, looked at what was on the market both used and new and after finding my bike for sale in a local Trek dealer, I bought it based on the decision of spec over all the other options I could buy.

Previous Ebikes are, in order, Santa Cruz Heckler (the first one they bought out), 650B, turned it into a mullet. I then had a Specialized Levo Pro Gen 3.

My Rail is a 9.8XT Project 1. Size Large
The spec was too good to turn down, didn't want to get a SRAM spec because I really don't like the Code brakes, the XT has Shimano brakes, upgrades (as bought in the shop) included AXS Dropper (150mm), Zeb Ultimate AirWiz, Super Deluxe AirWiz and Pro Carbon Rims, I paid £9300 for it and knew I would add the AXS shifter and mech. Compared to anything else at that price point, it was very difficult to turn down.I had read and viewed lots of reviews, all saying how good the Bosch motor is and how well the Rail handles on trails and on more technical terrain, how well it climbs and coupled with a 750Wh battery, the brilliant range you can get.

It's my first full 29'r as well, all other bikes, both analogue and E have been 650b versions or Mullet.

Today was my first ride. I played around with the setup before the ride, set my fork sag to just under 30% at the recommended AirWiz target pressure for my Weight (85Kg) 85psi (very similar pressure to all other forks on previous bikes), set the rebound to be as fast as it could be without the bike lifting off the ground when compressed and released while stationary. Set the shock up with target pressure of 225psi, 30% sag and set the rebound to where I though it should be and put the LSC in the middle position.

Tyres are Minion DHF 2.5 MaxGrip Exo+ at 20psi and DHR 2.4 MaxTerra Exo+ at 22psi.

I kept the XT 12sp cassette and changed the chain power link to SRAM 12sp. (using AXS shifter).

I've added a 35mm stem, down 10mm from standard.

I went to the Quantocks today to do a range test, never ridden there before, so downloaded the Killer Loop for the Garmin and off I went.

Conditions were dry, stoney, large rocks over hardback, some roots, some loam in the wooded sections. Similar to riding Wales or the Peak District.

I was anticipating some rattle from the motor........

First part of the ride was a climb, so I used eMTB mode and really enjoyed how smooth the motor was. It is louder than a gen3 Brose when pedalling, similar volume to the Shimano EP(whatever) I had on the Heckler, but not as annoying. Motor volume on eBikes has never bothered me, so not much really to report here.
I liked the way eMTB mode responded to rider input, different to the Levo and Shimano in a good way. I wouldn't really call it Natural, because a motor is not really an analogue kind of thing, but I did like the way it upped the support when I upped my input.

I didn't use ECO for any stage of the ride, Tour+ and eMTB was perfect.

One one section I did use turbo, it didn't feel as strong as the Shimano or the Brose when they were in Turbo, but it was good enough.

The first descent was terrible. Fast single track, large stones and rocks, some chunk, but nothing too drastic.
The bike felt terrible, the rear end was extremely harsh, there was loads of noise coming from the bike, front end was fine, but the rear felt all over the place and very unresponsive over the terrain.

At the bottom, I checked the rebound, it was only on 3, so opened it up 2 clicks ready the next descent.

The next climb actually felt better with the faster rebound.

Th next descent was very similar to the first, very rough but the rear end felt much better, more reaction from the shock and the bike felt a lot smoother and more under control, the noise however was still there. Really not sure what was causing it, sounded very loud and as though it was coming from towards the front of the bike.

Next I opened the LSC to the minus position, ready for the next descent.

Same again, the climb felt even better with the LSC fully open, the rear was very compliant on the loose rocks and I had tons of traction.

Third descent, massive difference again in the shock, could hardly feel the back end moving over the chunk, was really impressed with how responsive the shock was. But the noise was still there, it didn't go for the remainder of the ride.

On one section of the route (Triscombe I think it was) I found some really good single track, tight, twisty, steep, Rooty, flow etc. Loved how the bike handled, at no point did I feel any lack of turn in, the rear came round well, didn't really pay any attention to the fact it is a full 29'r, it just eats up anything that is thrown at it.
I also didn't feel the bike was too long. It's a much longer reach (487mm) than the Levo (which was 475mm). I think the shorter 35mm stem I fitted helped, but overall the size felt great (its the longest bike I have ridden).

General riding impressions are very good. really stable on fast downs, gets around the twisty stuff with no issues and climbs like a goat.

I had kept the bike in Low position and did get quite a few pedal strikes, I think it needs shorter cranks.

KIOX and remote. I think they work really well. The KIOX display is very good, bright, readable, doesn't get in the way. the remote is fine, I have mine rotated quite a way back on the bars, so it does not sit 'on top' looking silly.

On one descent towards the , well after I’d stopped adjusting suspension settings, the bike turned itself off.

Range.
tempImageEILexX.png


tempImageDRS5JV.png

tempImageeswhvX.png


No complaints on the range. I was worn out well before the bike was (but it was my first ride in about 10 months).

Brakes. Shimano XT8100 4 piston. Bloody Brilliant. Better than the Hope's I've had on my previous bikes. Better stopping power, better lever feel.

AirWiz. Complete Gimmick and really not worth it.
I set my target pressure according to my weight, which did achieve the desired sag. But I don't need a computer to tell me how to do it. Fork AiWiz battery is already dead.

I didn't use all the travel at either end. I wasn't really expecting to on the trails I rode, but over some small drops, the bike felt a bit hard on the landing. I don't know what tokens are in the fork, if there are any in there, I'm removing them.

tempImageTDy0jb.png


tempImage1LOUTk.png


tempImageWMVrrz.png


The NOISE !
No idea what it causing the rattle. It sounds bigger than the expected motor rattle and sounds like it's front end rather than down low.

Does the battery rattle in the latest Rail's? It does have the newer battery mount. Is it why the bike turned itself off on one descent?

Is it just the motor? I really hope not.

Maybe I should have tried more rebound in the rear shock, I'm on 5 (220 ish psi) Maybe going higher (faster) will make the rear end even more plush to counter all the trail chatter and hence quieten the bike down more? Maybe a Coil would be better? I'm at 30% sag so don't really want to reduce air pressure. Maybe the standard shock needs less HSC damping?

For all the reviews and praise the bike gets, I dread to think that the riders are accepting of all the noise?
There must be something going on on my bike that is more than just the motor?

It's a great bike, rides great, climbs great, handles great, immense range, I can't fault the ride characteristics at all, but if I can't quieten it down, I will be forever wishing I bought a Levo, even at a lower spec.

Is it better than the Levo gen 3, or is the gen3 better than the Rail? No, not really, both extremely capable bikes in every respect. Is it better than the Heckler? Yes, in my opinion, also thought the same of the Levo compared to the Heckler, the rear end on the Rail and Levo feel far superior.

BEDBAE6E-A8FB-4367-981B-E7FED05588B5.jpeg
F6E8563E-8F7D-418D-B2D9-3404EF2DC21E.jpeg


tempImagesKPTpJ.png
 
Last edited:

Bummers

Well-known member
Mar 12, 2022
584
539
UK
Sounds like battery rattle. Some people are using foam to dampen the sound and prevent it moving.
 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,467
1,593
Newquay
I’ve just had a quick look for some potential rattle sources……




988AC559-9423-4579-A256-DADEF9801C99.jpeg


 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,467
1,593
Newquay
KIOX

 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,467
1,593
Newquay
Lock

 

Rob Rides EMTB

Administrator
Staff member
Subscriber
Jan 14, 2018
6,260
13,700
Surrey, UK
Worth trying this:

 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,467
1,593
Newquay
I used P seals (link below) which I think fortuitously also help to prevent any battery vibration.


these?
 

Paul Mac

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Patreon
Subscriber
Jul 9, 2018
997
1,046
Uk
I have the same bike and weight about 78kg.
I have rear shock, 210psi with the rebound set to 4 and the front fork I have 69psi leaving in the standard 2 tokens with 7 clicks of rebound from fully closed and 4 clicks of compression from fully open.
85psi on the Zeb seems a bit too much?
Also definitely get the foam damping plate as previously mentioned, it makes a big difference.
But there shouldn't be that much noise.
To discount the battery making a noise remove it for one descent.
I love mine, it's the best bike I've ever owned and that's coming from a 2020 Rail and gen 1and 2 Levos
 

Pascal Funk

Active member
Apr 2, 2020
108
384
France
One one section I did use turbo, it didn't feel as strong as the Shimano or the Brwhen they were in Turbo, but it was good enough.


The Bosch Gen2 is more violent and powerful. Thanks to its gear ratio (2.5 turns)
But with the inconvenience of the engine inertia cut off.
Thanks to the engine and the long chainstays (475mm) my Powerfly climbs better than a 2022 Levo ^^

Congratulations on your purchase ;)
 

Oupy

Member
Feb 22, 2022
63
48
Australia
The bosch rattle can be replicated on demand - just grab the chain ring and move it up and down, roll the bike back and forward a bit then try again if you aren't hearing it. On my carbon rail the noise travels up the frame and sounds more like a cable clicking type noise than a clunk.

That said, i cant say it worries me now i know it's normal. I'm generally more focused on picking lines down the trail.
 

irie

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Subscriber
May 2, 2022
2,574
2,628
Chichester, W.Sussex, UK
these?

Yes, that's exactly what I used. There's enough to do most of the bikes in the western world (might be a slight exaggeration there).
 

torabora851

Member
Apr 13, 2020
108
68
Sydney, Australia
I don't like this rattling noise either. Moreover, I feel that the battery moves inside on a big rock and jumps. I know that feeling because I had a loose battery fitting on my old Merida (which is way quieter than the rail).

There is a difference in battery level when I put the bike upside down:
IMG_20220813_095827.jpg
IMG_20220813_095958.jpg

This new alignment system doesn't allow tune distance between the top and bottom brackets and seems like there is a 1.5mm too long.
 

irie

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Subscriber
May 2, 2022
2,574
2,628
Chichester, W.Sussex, UK
Worth trying this:


Mine arrived this morning. Self adhesive on one side.

Screenshot_20220823-095916_Gallery~2.jpg


Screenshot_20220823-095907_Gallery~2.jpg
 

Paul Mac

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Patreon
Subscriber
Jul 9, 2018
997
1,046
Uk
That should work, but frankly we shouldn't be having to do this on £9000 bikes!
This is an easy fix from the factory, the old bike with the 625 was renound for battery rattle and the bigger heavier 750 battery was always going to be worse.
Trek could have easily added an extra support, not good enough!
 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,467
1,593
Newquay
It is tight, but goes in no problem and locks in place. You can actually feel significantly less
Movement of the battery (almost no movement at all). I haven’t tried with just the damper plate.

I haven’t ridden the bike yet with this mod.
I also installed the P rubber strip on each side of the battery where the cover meets the frame.

it all adds up to keeping the battery very snug when fitted. Fingers crossed for a quieter ride.

I will definitely test a descent with the battery removed to get a base line noise test.

such simple things to add to the bike with no downsides. really struggle to understand why Trek haven’t fixed this? They must test ride the bike and simply accept the noise levels as ‘normal’.

@Mitch@Trek would love to get your feedback on this.
 

Oupy

Member
Feb 22, 2022
63
48
Australia
May as well do the chainring rattle test too before you head out again so that you know what the normal notorious bosch rattle sounds like. See post #12.
 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,467
1,593
Newquay
@Rob Rides EMTB surely you have enough influence with Trek to get them to create an alternative that existing RIB owners can install in their bikes? I can only assume that Trek read this forum and are aware of the issue?
I’d happily test drive any solution they come out with, I’m a perfectionist when it comes to this type of thing, so I’d be a good test case 😂😎
 

torabora851

Member
Apr 13, 2020
108
68
Sydney, Australia
Interestingly that ebike-mtb.com noticed this is in their preview:

Unfortunately, the battery inside the down tube develops a life of its own through hard hits and compressions. Because of the loose fit, it causes the Trek Rail to vibrate and feel nervous at high speeds. After consulting Trek, we were assured that they would address this problem on the production bikes with the help of special foam inserts in the down tube.

Seems like Trek is aware of that

 
Last edited:

JP-NZ

E*POWAH Elite
Feb 17, 2022
1,195
911
Christchurch - New Zealand
Someone else (possibly in this thread) did mention you can adjust the bottom plate with the bike upside down to close the vertical gap/movement within the battery area? Has anyone tried this yet? Possibly it may have to do with the RIB alignment?

Just be thankful the reports of batteries falling out haven't happened yet, if some cheap foam tape and a $4 part fix the issue I will be very happy.
 

torabora851

Member
Apr 13, 2020
108
68
Sydney, Australia
Someone else (possibly in this thread) did mention you can adjust the bottom plate with the bike upside down to close the vertical gap/movement within the battery area? Has anyone tried this yet? Possibly it may have to do with the RIB alignment?

Just be thankful the reports of batteries falling out haven't happened yet, if some cheap foam tape and a $4 part fix the issue I will be very happy.
Both brackets are attached to the alignment plate, you can't move them without bending the plate.

RIB.png
 

EMTB Forums

Since 2018

The World's largest electric mountain bike community.

554K
Messages
28,010
Members
Join Our Community

Latest articles


Top