Pole Voima 190mm Travel EMTB

[ebikerider]

Weird, I’m just setting up my GX Transmission and it’s telling me I need a 122links with my chain.
View attachment 121751

I have a 34t chainring

 

[jbrown15]

I have a 34t chainring

Ah ok, that makes sense.

I'm a little puzzled at the moment, I purchased the GX groupset with cranks and chainring included for the Bosch CX motor. The chainring included says 55mm on the back of it, Trying to see if that will work. Pole lists the complete bike comes with a 52mm RaceFace chainring. So now I'm not sure.

 

[Blownoutrides]

This is the new unbreakable can shift under full load robocop finger electric sram? if so theres a case for warrantee.
If the derailieur is auto adjusting and can shift under load how is a tooth broken off?

Side note. If warrantee is rejected i'd try to file the daggy bits of that tooth and see if you can ride it filed. It might work enough to get more miles out of it.

I am not having issues on mine, it’s running flawlessly. Perhaps a bent tooth as mentioned above.

What rear hub are you running?

 

[Plummet]

Ok lads. Its coming up to 600km on the Voima.

Its fair to say i'm zenned into the bike. Suspension is set up and i've had some descent time in the saddle in every terrain from pavement to xc laps, national dh runs and extreme hike a bike tech to flow and jump trails.

Lets face it the bike performs as advertised (well as advertised before pole "derated" the voima to trail bike status). Its pretty much a dh rig with a motor. A heavy hitting feature munching monster.

I have the rear end set up just a touch firmer than I would for full dedicated downhill. It rides kind of in between enduro and dh bike for standard trails until you ramp up the crazy level then it has a extra depth to the suspension to take on the fool hardy.

The arma rear shock is freaking fantastic. Even though I have sent some fairly silly stuff the rear end is planted and fuss free. I must have bottomed it going on the stuff i've dropped off. But not once I have felt it bottom out.
The zeb is also running amazingly. I kind of understand some of the complaints of harshness that others have said. I find there is a point at slower speed chuck were I feel it could support more. But ramp up the speed and send it like you should, the fork and bike are buttery.

In fact that kind of sums up the voima. At standard speeds its no better than a standard e-bike. There some spots on tight up hill switch backs that the front is very light and floaty. Slow tech needs some muscling. XC tracks are ok but a less aggresive geo would be slightly better. But I didnt buy a voima for xc tracks. Get up to speed hit something stupid and boom. There is the 190mm I paid for.

Ripping around with my fast AF xc and enduro mates on their e bikes we are pretty much matching each others speeds on the enduro and xc tracks. When it gets chunky and silly my xc and enduro mates fade into the back ground. Then they sub out and don't want to ride the "victory or death" dh lines and I carry on.

One of the biggest problems I'm facing at the moment is to find an ebiker prepared to take on the same lines as i want to hit.

Righto. I have gotten used to the short TT. I've slammed the seat back as far as I can and would still prefer a slacker seat angle. The biggest problem I have on longer rides (2 hours plus) is chaffing in the gooch area. I don't have this when I pedal for the same distance on my meat bike. My conclusion is that it has something to do with the more upright position of the short TT. PS I've tries several saddles and its not a saddle problem. Ideally i'd prefer a more traditional seat angle. I'd prefer to give up some of the crazy uphill goat climbing ability for less gooch chaffing and more comfortable standard seated pedalling position.

All in all im happy. The bike is doing what I want how I want with one exception. I still don't like the long chain stay. I've been trying for 2 months to do extended manuals and I just cant. The front is too heavy, chain stays too long.

 

[Onetime]

Ok lads. Its coming up to 600km on the Voima.

Its fair to say i'm zenned into the bike. Suspension is set up and i've had some descent time in the saddle in every terrain from pavement to xc laps, national dh runs and extreme hike a bike tech to flow and jump trails.

Lets face it the bike performs as advertised (well as advertised before pole "derated" the voima to trail bike status). Its pretty much a dh rig with a motor. A heavy hitting feature munching monster.

I have the rear end set up just a touch firmer than I would for full dedicated downhill. It rides kind of in between enduro and dh bike for standard trails until you ramp up the crazy level then it has a extra depth to the suspension to take on the fool hardy.

The arma rear shock is freaking fantastic. Even though I have sent some fairly silly stuff the rear end is planted and fuss free. I must have bottomed it going on the stuff i've dropped off. But not once I have felt it bottom out.
The zeb is also running amazingly. I kind of understand some of the complaints of harshness that others have said. I find there is a point at slower speed chuck were I feel it could support more. But ramp up the speed and send it like you should, the fork and bike are buttery.

In fact that kind of sums up the voima. At standard speeds its no better than a standard e-bike. There some spots on tight up hill switch backs that the front is very light and floaty. Slow tech needs some muscling. XC tracks are ok but a less aggresive geo would be slightly better. But I didnt buy a voima for xc tracks. Get up to speed hit something stupid and boom. There is the 190mm I paid for.

Ripping around with my fast AF xc and enduro mates on their e bikes we are pretty much matching each others speeds on the enduro and xc tracks. When it gets chunky and silly my xc and enduro mates fade into the back ground. Then they sub out and don't want to ride the "victory or death" dh lines and I carry on.

One of the biggest problems I'm facing at the moment is to find an ebiker prepared to take on the same lines as i want to hit.

Righto. I have gotten used to the short TT. I've slammed the seat back as far as I can and would still prefer a slacker seat angle. The biggest problem I have on longer rides (2 hours plus) is chaffing in the gooch area. I don't have this when I pedal for the same distance on my meat bike. My conclusion is that it has something to do with the more upright position of the short TT. PS I've tries several saddles and its not a saddle problem. Ideally i'd prefer a more traditional seat angle. I'd prefer to give up some of the crazy uphill goat climbing ability for less gooch chaffing and more comfortable standard seated pedalling position.

All in all im happy. The bike is doing what I want how I want with one exception. I still don't like the long chain stay. I've been trying for 2 months to do extended manuals and I just cant. The front is too heavy, chain stays too long.

Can you manual?

Just do this ^. I think just about any ebike would be hard to manual without using the motor to boost it up.

 

[BigG]

Return it and get the “old” Eagle AXS LOL.

Kidding… kinda. Was in the LBS today and owner has just had their first Transmission-equipped sale (Gorgeous Pivot Firebird) come back after a few weeks with the same gear 3 issues, crappy shifting in general, plus a broken chain.

Apparently owner is also a big guy 220lbs so I hear. Maybe if Transmission is allergic to high torque individuals.

To stop this derailment and answer your actual question I’d try it both ways in the stand and see which seems smoother.

After getting 12sp sram gx chain stretch to .75 in about 100 miles I promptly installed Shimano linkglide XT on voima and it shifts beautifully and quietly. Cassette cogs are 1.5 times thicker than SRAM, all steel.
Full group with 2 chains AND hg freehub body was less than single sram cassette for me too lol. I’m yet to see any wear on cassette.

More details here: 10 speed groupset

 

[Onetime]

After getting 12sp sram gx chain stretch to .75 in about 100 miles I promptly installed Shimano linkglide XT on voima and it shifts beautifully and quietly. Cassette cogs are 1.5 times thicker than SRAM, all steel.
Full group with 2 chains AND hg freehub body was less than single sram cassette for me too lol. I’m yet to see any wear on cassette.

More details here: 10 speed groupset

Wow! .75 in 100 miles is ridiculous! I’ve been running XO/XX 11 speed drivetrain, (XO 10-42 cassette, 32t Garbaruk chainring with XX shifter and derailleur) with great durability and shifting on my last 2 Voima’s. I had 800 miles on the first Voima and I have over 200 miles on the new one and the same drivetrain on both, so over 1000 miles. I wax and rotate 2 chains, ( 1 YBN and 1 KMC) every 2-300 miles and so far I have just under .25 on each chain and the cassette still looks and shifts great. I just don’t really see any advantages to SRAM 12 speed groups for ebikes. They’re heavier and they seem to have durability issues. Glad the 10 speed Shimano is working for you.

 

[Plummet]

Can you manual?

Just do this ^. I think just about any ebike would be hard to manual without using the motor to boost it up.

Well I noticed that they didn't show the pull into the manual.... must have been motor assist.... I can do that. All be it not as good as that guy.

I agree all full fat e's are hard to manual. Wheelie on power no problem. Manual.... hard. I can manual my daughters Orbea rise better than the pole. But that is an unfair comparison.

 

[Blownoutrides]

After getting 12sp sram gx chain stretch to .75 in about 100 miles I promptly installed Shimano linkglide XT on voima and it shifts beautifully and quietly. Cassette cogs are 1.5 times thicker than SRAM, all steel.
Full group with 2 chains AND hg freehub body was less than single sram cassette for me too lol. I’m yet to see any wear on cassette.

More details here: 10 speed groupset

This is the way (for the 200lb and up posse at least).

 

[ebikerider]

This is the way (for the posse that has zero idea how to shift at least).

FIFY

 

[Blownoutrides]

FIFY

Ok boomer.

 

[ebikerider]

Ok boomer.

If you are stretching chains to 0.75 in 100 miles you need a lesson in how to shift. I'm guessing by your PM to me that this has somehow hurt your feelings?

My riding group consists of many 200+lb riders, most of whom are regular gym goers and could be described as pretty sturdy units on full fat ebikes. No-one really hangs about up or down so lots of gear changes. Every single one is on 12 speed SRAM or Shimano. Maybe we are all somehow light on our gear but excessive drivetrain wear on our bikes has not been something that has ever been a topic of conversation. From my memory the only time it has been mentioned was by one of the guys who works in a bike shop, telling us about a few inexperienced bike riders who kept snapping chains. Shop dude gave them a lesson on how to shift and the problem was solved. These guys were apparently stoked after learning it...and could keep their wallets in their pockets for longer too.

Largely both brands of 12sp drivetrains have all been trouble free. We are relatively meticulous with maintenance and drivetrains get cleaned and lubed after every ride without exception.

Putting an ultra heavy cassette on is not good for suspension either. Makes it much more difficult to get control of the wheel on rough terrain.

 

[Plummet]

If you are stretching chains to 0.75 in 100 miles you need a lesson in how to shift. I'm guessing by your PM to me that this has somehow hurt your feelings?

My riding group consists of many 200+lb riders, most of whom are regular gym goers and could be described as pretty sturdy units on full fat ebikes. No-one really hangs about up or down so lots of gear changes. Every single one is on 12 speed SRAM or Shimano. Maybe we are all somehow light on our gear but excessive drivetrain wear on our bikes has not been something that has ever been a topic of conversation. From my memory the only time it has been mentioned was by one of the guys who works in a bike shop, telling us about a few inexperienced bike riders who kept snapping chains. Shop dude gave them a lesson on how to shift and the problem was solved. These guys were apparently stoked after learning it...and could keep their wallets in their pockets for longer too.

Largely both brands of 12sp drivetrains have all been trouble free. We are relatively meticulous with maintenance and drivetrains get cleaned and lubed after every ride without exception.

Putting an ultra heavy cassette on is not good for suspension either. Makes it much more difficult to get control of the wheel on rough terrain.

I dont like my 12 sp either. I prefer 11. The 12sp is too closely spaced, jams in with shit easier (its muddy winter here at the mo) and needs to be tuned perfectly or it skips. I'll probably be retrofitting 11 speed when this shitty 12so cassette wears out.

 

[BigG]

Yeah my linkglide is 11sp. Recommend.

As for stretching the chain and knowing how to shift and maintaining. I do all that, I even wax chains and I know how to shift and haven’t snapped a chain in a decade or more, but I do occasionally snap sram cassette teeth on larger cogs. Gx chain is just shit, that’s a known fact. X0 and up is fine though.

Just narrow 12sp + price + cassette durability is not quite right on sram.
11sp + thicker cassette that lives 3x longer and costs 4-5 times less, at the penalty of 150g? I’ll take it on ebike.

I didn’t ditch sram just for single cheap chain that stretched. It’s a combo of factors, that I think Linkglide solves brilliantly. Not for everyone yeah, but absolutely fine for me.

 

[Blownoutrides]

If you are stretching chains to 0.75 in 100 miles you need a lesson in how to shift. I'm guessing by your PM to me that this has somehow hurt your feelings?

My riding group consists of many 200+lb riders, most of whom are regular gym goers and could be described as pretty sturdy units on full fat ebikes. No-one really hangs about up or down so lots of gear changes. Every single one is on 12 speed SRAM or Shimano. Maybe we are all somehow light on our gear but excessive drivetrain wear on our bikes has not been something that has ever been a topic of conversation. From my memory the only time it has been mentioned was by one of the guys who works in a bike shop, telling us about a few inexperienced bike riders who kept snapping chains. Shop dude gave them a lesson on how to shift and the problem was solved. These guys were apparently stoked after learning it...and could keep their wallets in their pockets for longer too.

Largely both brands of 12sp drivetrains have all been trouble free. We are relatively meticulous with maintenance and drivetrains get cleaned and lubed after every ride without exception.

Putting an ultra heavy cassette on is not good for suspension either. Makes it much more difficult to get control of the wheel on rough terrain.

TLDR

 

[Blownoutrides]

Even after replacing the broken tooth cassette, my original XX still struggled with downshifts even though it was at micro adjust 1 (fully inboard). It’s like it wanted to be in micro adjust -2 or something to be happy (obviously that doesn’t exist).

So…

Replaced my XX derailleur with a new GX and it all now shifts flawlessly in micro adjust 9.

Conclusion is the original XX derailleur was a few mm out of spec and the result was crap shifting, a broken cassette tooth, and a prematurely worn chain. Zero marks on the derailleur from impacts. Whatever the XX derailleur’s issue is, it’s been there from day 1.

Both derailleurs were tested with SRAM’s latest setup guidelines (Key A / 21T /at sag).

I guess the takeaway here is if you’re on the edge of the T-Type micro adjust envelope it’s a red flag that something’s out of whack.

Also, if you’re skipping in a particular gear look for missing teeth - SRAM has etched weird notches on the cassette, some of which weaken the individual teeth.

Hope that helps someone!

 

[Plummet]

Even after replacing the broken tooth cassette, my original XX still struggled with downshifts even though it was at micro adjust 1 (fully inboard). It’s like it wanted to be in micro adjust -2 or something to be happy (obviously that doesn’t exist).

So…

Replaced my XX derailleur with a new GX and it all now shifts flawlessly in micro adjust 9.

Conclusion is the original XX derailleur was a few mm out of spec and the result was crap shifting, a broken cassette tooth, and a prematurely worn chain. Zero marks on the derailleur from impacts. Whatever the XX derailleur’s issue is, it’s been there from day 1.

Both derailleurs were tested with SRAM’s latest setup guidelines (Key A / 21T /at sag).

I guess the takeaway here is if you’re on the edge of the T-Type micro adjust envelope it’s a red flag that something’s out of whack.

Also, if you’re skipping in a particular gear look for missing teeth - SRAM has etched weird notches on the cassette, some of which weaken the individual teeth.

Hope that helps someone!

Yeah, and there is an extra level of pain and admin if you are buying online compared to if you purchased from the lbs. If you had shit shifting out of a brand new bike from the local bike shop you would just take it down there and they would fix it.. Not so much when the online shop is on the other side of the world.

 

[ebikerider]

Even after replacing the broken tooth cassette, my original XX still struggled with downshifts even though it was at micro adjust 1 (fully inboard). It’s like it wanted to be in micro adjust -2 or something to be happy (obviously that doesn’t exist).

So…

Replaced my XX derailleur with a new GX and it all now shifts flawlessly in micro adjust 9.

Conclusion is the original XX derailleur was a few mm out of spec and the result was crap shifting, a broken cassette tooth, and a prematurely worn chain. Zero marks on the derailleur from impacts. Whatever the XX derailleur’s issue is, it’s been there from day 1.

Both derailleurs were tested with SRAM’s latest setup guidelines (Key A / 21T /at sag).

I guess the takeaway here is if you’re on the edge of the T-Type micro adjust envelope it’s a red flag that something’s out of whack.

Also, if you’re skipping in a particular gear look for missing teeth - SRAM has etched weird notches on the cassette, some of which weaken the individual teeth.

Hope that helps someone!

Are you going to try and warranty the derailleur?

 

[tbarjoe]

Yeah my linkglide is 11sp. Recommend.

As for stretching the chain and knowing how to shift and maintaining. I do all that, I even wax chains and I know how to shift and haven’t snapped a chain in a decade or more, but I do occasionally snap sram cassette teeth on larger cogs. Gx chain is just shit, that’s a known fact. X0 and up is fine though.

Just narrow 12sp + price + cassette durability is not quite right on sram.
11sp + thicker cassette that lives 3x longer and costs 4-5 times less, at the penalty of 150g? I’ll take it on ebike.

I didn’t ditch sram just for single cheap chain that stretched. It’s a combo of factors, that I think Linkglide solves brilliantly. Not for everyone yeah, but absolutely fine for me.

Nice - Linkglide looks great and exactly what I'm looking for (more durable 11sp), but it is currently impossible to find the cassette here in Canada, so I'll keep waiting (it'll be awhile before the Sonni is here anyway)

 

[Blownoutrides]

Yeah my linkglide is 11sp. Recommend.

As for stretching the chain and knowing how to shift and maintaining. I do all that, I even wax chains and I know how to shift and haven’t snapped a chain in a decade or more, but I do occasionally snap sram cassette teeth on larger cogs. Gx chain is just shit, that’s a known fact. X0 and up is fine though.

Just narrow 12sp + price + cassette durability is not quite right on sram.
11sp + thicker cassette that lives 3x longer and costs 4-5 times less, at the penalty of 150g? I’ll take it on ebike.

I didn’t ditch sram just for single cheap chain that stretched. It’s a combo of factors, that I think Linkglide solves brilliantly. Not for everyone yeah, but absolutely fine for me.

FWIW just dropped off my XX cassette for warranty at the LBS (mountain bike only shop) and they said the Transmission stuff has been nothing but trouble. Lots of broken chains and deteriorating shifting, apparently.

Definitely interested in something more robust like LinkGlide. What do you do for a chainring in that setup?

 

[BigG]

1. M8130 shifter and derailleur
2. CS-LG700-11 cassette
3. CN-LG500 chain.

Note: cassette needs HG freehub body, preferably steel, so get one for your rear hub. Whole kit will probably be at least twice cheaper than XX cassette lol.

Any non-single speed chainring will work (9-10-11-12)
Also any non-12 sp chain will work, but LG chain is supposed to be more robust.

I use sram eagle steel chainring that came with the bike. Basically install sram one for bosch made of steel, those are cheap ($10-25) and wear 3-5 times longer than aluminum. Those are narrow-wide too already.

 

[TheSnowShark]

@Rob Rides EMTB captivated me with his videos on Pole Voima..






Now I absolute want one!

 

[Plummet]

@Rob Rides EMTB captivated me with his videos on Pole Voima..


View attachment 124860



Now I absolute want one!

Got to watch out for that Rob character. I pretty much want to buy every bike he does a video on.

 

[Suns_PSD]

X01 11 speed on midpowers & Linkglide on FFs.

This is the way.

 

[Durrti]

X01 11 speed on midpowers & Linkglide on FFs.

This is the way.

I’ve gotten 2000 miles out of a 12s deore cassette, only changed as I felt it was time.

 

[ebikerider]

X01 11 speed on midpowers & Linkglide on FFs.

This is the way.

It is one way.

Nothing wrong with 11 or 12 speed on any bike ime. I have an X01 cassette that came with my Kenevo SL (2000kms)that got transferred to my Levo (1200kms) and now on my Voima (1000kms) that has plenty of life in it. Adding unnecessary weight like the linkglide cassette isn't always necessary. I ride primarily in dry and dusty conditions....maybe that's why my drivetrains seem to last.

 

[Plummet]

It is one way.

Nothing wrong with 11 or 12 speed on any bike ime. I have an X01 cassette that came with my Kenevo SL (2000kms)that got transferred to my Levo (1200kms) and now on my Voima (1000kms) that has plenty of life in it. Adding unnecessary weight like the linkglide cassette isn't always necessary. I ride primarily in dry and dusty conditions....maybe that's why my drivetrains seem to last.

Thats some km. I've burnt my gx12 speed in 1000km in the mud.

 

[Darkyhs]

Did anyone mount the aftermarket Bosch ConnectModule for the GPS Tracking+Alarm on the Voima? I don't think there should be a difference between the Race and non-Race models?

 

[tooFATtoRIDE]

Really loved my Voima while I had it, but I can say the only thing that never was right was the SRAM drivetrain. Had XX AXS (non t-type) and micro adjust never really helped, even after cassette swap and chain swap. Was either not dropping to tallest gear or was ghost shifting to upper gear. Really needed micro-adjust for each gear. Sensitive to gunk and constant chain maintenance. Not surprised T-Type even more sensitive. With my Sonni on order, I'm done with Sram and moving to Rohloff E-14 internal geared hub with Gates Belt Drive.

Hello, out of interest, did you mean fitting the Rohloff E14 Speedhub A-12 and Gates belt into the Pole frame?

I am asking as this is something I would like to do in the future but I have not found anyone who has done it already. I am a big fan of internal drive trains but I accept that Pole Voima with Pinion E-Drive might not be on the cards for some time.

 

[slickrock]

Hello, out of interest, did you mean fitting the Rohloff E14 Speedhub A-12 and Gates belt into the Pole frame?

I am asking as this is something I would like to do in the future but I have not found anyone who has done it already. I am a big fan of internal drive trains but I accept that Pole Voima with Pinion E-Drive might not be on the cards for some time.

Yes, I do mean to outfit the Sonni with an A12 and Gates. My sense is from the Rohloff side, it won't be too much of a problem. There's the T-bone brake mount brace to deal with and sprocket/chainring alignment, but these should be surmountable.

OTOH, the Gates belt drive part of the solution will be more challenging. While the Sonni has an elevated chainstay swingarm, the space between the main mondo pivot and the chainring looks a bit tight for a belt (Voima doesn't have this constraint as the main pivots are smaller). Moreover, however, is the belt tensioner issue. It would have to mounted on the motor rather than the frame (like with the Pinion), which is why I think the Sonni open-motor design is advantageous here. Nicolai Bikes appears to have Gates tensioner setup mounted to a Bosch motor, so I'm going to chase that angle down.

Then there's chain-growth of the bike to consider, and the smaller it is the better, because there has to be enough tensioner articulation room for the target belt size used (unlike chains, whose length can be set with link precision, there are only so many belt sizes to choose from to set slack. This could be compensated if the bike had horizontal dropouts like with many city bikes, but of course these bikes aren't of the city ilk ). I have a query out with Pole on chain-growth and they still need to get back.

The E14 electronic shifting addition would be icing on the cake, but not a dealbreaker. If I could get the above to work, I would have a Pole bike with a bulletproof, time-tested sealed geared transmission working with the best big-player e-bike motor on the market linked by a belt in a all-weather, near zero-maintenance solution.