I wouldn’t use gorilla tape as it leaves sticky residue behind if you need to remove it later. Pole specifies gaffing tape which doesn’t leave any residue if you need to remove or re-tape later. If you line up all of the cables together on the left side near the bottom edge and tape over them like pole specifies it doesn’t look bad And like zimmer said, it keeps the cables from rattling. And it’s on the inside of the frame, so who cares. As for the top tube badge, its just held on with double sided tape so you could probably just press it firmly back down and apply a little heat to activate the adhesive. The packaging could definitely be better for the battery, but I’m not sure if it comes that way from Bosch or Pole. But it could use some foam padding to prevent damage from shipping.
Pole Voima 190mm Travel EMTB
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
jbrown15
Well-known member
I didn’t say I used Gorilla tape, I said the tape that was in the frame from Pole looks like gorilla tape.
- Thread starter
- #693
jbrown15
Well-known member
Great video.
Stoffel
Active member
Great video, I’m definitely more interested in getting one in the future after watching that 
Blownoutrides
Active member
So many badges. Deleted all but the head tube and I think even that one’s days are numbered. Looks better without them imho and there’s one less thing to catch dirt.
I took off my badges and decals when I took of all of my wrap. I have new decals and badges, but I’ve yet to put the decals back on. But I did put on new badges back on. It just looked a little plain to me without the badges. I may put the decals back on at some point, maybe.
Plummet
Flash Git
Thanks Zimmer.Should help you ..
Derestricting bosch smart system
So this is where my confusion was early in the conversation . Why would I need an electromagnet if I already have either a current speed sensor ( factory fitted in frame ) or alternatively as you’ve said relocate my current in frame speed sensor with the reed switch taking its place at the wheel...www.emtbforums.com
It's green as it doubles as the Low power port when it's not used for the remote speed sensor.
Are you sure your motor is configured for the remote speed sensor and not the rim magnet ?
Still no joy. The bike shop has it now. That had it hooked up to bosch diagnostics still haven't figured it out. Now its hurry up and wait for another week as i'm off on a business trip.
Plummet
Flash Git
Yeah, I'll mirror those thoughts on cable routing. The frame is like 98% awesome then there's budget duct tape holding the cables into position. They could have machined some slimline bespoke cable clamps and make an awesome internal routing solution. Hell those clamps could be machined out of the waste material that's already been machined away....
Apart from bike not going due to sensor problems. And that's kind of one of those shit happens things. I bought a complete bike and the brake and gear cables were jammed tight and almost squashed by the motor. I think someone had installed the cables then the motor catching the cables in the process. I removed and repositioned the cables so they weren't squashed hard against the more. The dropper post cable was kinked. So I had to replace that. More niggly then anything. Not a major, just mildly annoying.
On a positive note that is some of the best machining I have ever seen. It is truely stunning quality, and I have managed a machine shop division and in another job had heavily involvement in aeronautical machined components.
Sorry to hear you’re having speed sensor issues. That’s a bummer. Hopefully your bike shop will have it all worked out by the time you get back from your trip.
jbrown15
Well-known member
I was extremely impressed with the bike, it’s literally a thing of beauty.
But I guess that’s why the tape thing bothers me so much…..lol
It's boutique duct tape.
@Rob Rides EMTB
Super video.
Is it also possible to make a video about bearing replacement and certain maintenance?
Not everyone has such large press-in and press-out tools at home.
Super video.
Is it also possible to make a video about bearing replacement and certain maintenance?
Not everyone has such large press-in and press-out tools at home.
Install video link and voima bearing tools in links below.@Rob Rides EMTB
Super video.
Is it also possible to make a video about bearing replacement and certain maintenance?
Not everyone has such large press-in and press-out tools at home.
Bearing Press Kit for Pole Bikes
Bearing Puller Kit for Pole Bikes
AlumiPro
Active member
I’ve read through all 24 pages of this forum and am very interested in getting a Pole.I have the full AXS(dropper + transmission) on mine, and my bike is quiet. It actually surprised me how quiet it is, as I also come from an S-Works Levo(Gen 3). Sure it does make sound, but with the quiet hub and no chain slap, it is very odd for me
I’m currently riding an S-works Gen 3 Levo, SRAM XX T-type, Cascade long travel with the EXT E-Storia coil and a Secus on the FOX 38.
I’m curious to hear Darkyhs thoughts and comparisons between the two bikes, being that you switched from an S-Works Gen3 Levo……or anyone else that has made the same switch.
I’m also having a hard time choosing a frame size. I’m 6’-2”, 34” inseam, and 150lbs geared up. My Levo is an S4 with stock 35mm stem and the saddle set all the way back. I ride chunky lava rock, tight trails in Northern California. Leaning towards a K2.
Blownoutrides
Active member
Not a Gen 3 Levo convert but I’d say you’re bang on for K2. Maybe keep Rob’s reach adjust headset strategy as a mental backup plan in case it feels different from what you’d hoped. That was my plan at 6’-4” 36” on K3 but wasn’t needed at all.
Big fan of the EXT Arma on this bike. The E-Storia wasn’t an option via EXT U.S.A. in Utah but climb switch isnt needed at all and I can’t imagine anything working better than the Arma anyway.
Recommend the race axles. Rear end is not overly stiff so you probably want the extra rigidity as a big guy smashing rocks.
AlumiPro
Active member
Yeah I noticed no EXT E-Storia that size. I’ll definitely be getting the EXT Arma! Which makes me wonder which shock I should choose to resell as a new take off when I order the race Frame set?? I don’t believe they will let me buy a discounted frame set with no shock? So if I have to choose, which shock would be the easiest to resale?(I won’t even put one ride on it)
I wish EXT made a 190mm fork! At least Vorsprung makes a Secus footstud for the Zeb! It’s been a game changer on my Fox 38!
Why is the Zeb 190mm Ultimate not offered with the race frame set? But offered with the complete build?
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jbrown15
Well-known member
EXT does make a 190mm fork.
EXT ERA V2 LONG TRAVEL - Extreme Racing Shox
Dedicated to long travel e-bikes Stem/crown integrated design to increase frontal stiffness and prevent cracking noises HS3 Hybrid System New self adjusting larger negative chamber High-flow 3-way cartridge with high-speed & low-speed compression plus rebound adjustment Lowers with...
www.extremeshox.com
AlumiPro
Active member
Wow, I didn’t find that on their website. I’ll have to look for reviews on it.EXT does make a 190mm fork.
EXT ERA V2 LONG TRAVEL - Extreme Racing Shox
Dedicated to long travel e-bikes Stem/crown integrated design to increase frontal stiffness and prevent cracking noises HS3 Hybrid System New self adjusting larger negative chamber High-flow 3-way cartridge with high-speed & low-speed compression plus rebound adjustment Lowers with...
Thanks
I'm also your height and inseam. I own an S5 Gen 3 Levo with the Cascade long shock kit and a 180mm 38 which I've been riding for a little over a year.
I had my first ride of my recently built up K3 Voima ID Race frameset yesterday (race axles, Fox 40s, stock RS SDU air, XO Transmission, MT7's., DH wheels and tyres.....).
Maybe I'm still in the honeymoon phase, but to me the Voima feels better in every way. I rode 30km/700m elevation with a wide range of terrain and the Voima excelled. I was especially impressed with the climbing. I took it down my local rough DH trail that I have ridden hundreds of times and set a PB on the first shot. I couldn't be happier with the bike and the motor and integration.
Size wise, I am very happy I went with K3 after being unsure of my decision for weeks after reading through these threads. I would say if you're 188cm and prefer an S4 Levo, go K2. If, like myself, you prefer an S5, go K3. At no time did it feel more unwieldy than my Levo despite having a longer wheelbase on paper. I'll be selling the Levo.
AlumiPro
Active member
So I guess you can get an EXT E-Storia built as a 250x75!
Wonder what that cost Nickytee?
Blownoutrides
Active member
Brand new DT 350 Hybrid rear (XD) on the new Voima is creaking after just a month. Creaks when winching up steeps (sitting or standing). Confirmed it’s the hub by swapping wheels and cassettes.
I tend to destroy hubs. This one is already sounding a lot like the half-dozen or so broken Hydra axles I went through a year ago, so my fear is that the new 350’s axle is cracking. That said, I’d love to discover it’s something else real stupid and easy to fix.
Driver and cassette have both been removed / regressed. Cassette re-torqued to 40nm. Axle torqued to 12nm.
Latest theory is that it might be the SRAM T-type interface so loosened, reset, and re-torqued everything there tonight. Hoping that was it, but not very optimistic. We’ll see tomorrow.
Bummed. Went out of my way to have this wheel rebuilt with what I thought was the most bomber rear hub on the market with a steel interface, yet here we are back in creak land.
If anyone has any ideas or specific experience please shoot. Already half thinking about replacing - are there more bombproof hubs out there?
I tend to destroy hubs. This one is already sounding a lot like the half-dozen or so broken Hydra axles I went through a year ago, so my fear is that the new 350’s axle is cracking. That said, I’d love to discover it’s something else real stupid and easy to fix.
Driver and cassette have both been removed / regressed. Cassette re-torqued to 40nm. Axle torqued to 12nm.
Latest theory is that it might be the SRAM T-type interface so loosened, reset, and re-torqued everything there tonight. Hoping that was it, but not very optimistic. We’ll see tomorrow.
Bummed. Went out of my way to have this wheel rebuilt with what I thought was the most bomber rear hub on the market with a steel interface, yet here we are back in creak land.
If anyone has any ideas or specific experience please shoot. Already half thinking about replacing - are there more bombproof hubs out there?
jbrown15
Well-known member
Hope has a new Pro5 eBike specific rear hub that should probably be pretty strong.
Plummet
Flash Git
Finally, got my pole out into the wild and rode it like I stole it for the first time. Yeha!
Still got a bunch of suspension set up to do. But got a good ride around some of my entertaining lines around town.
What did I like, what didnt i like?
It is the steep descender. It handled the steeps with ease and control. Suspension is reasonably buttery even though not properly configured. Climbing tech as predicted is stupid good.
Chugging down endless chairs was child's play. It does indeed feel like a dh rig with a motor.
I'm glad as hell I went for k1 size. It's a monster truck at k1.
In mullet config she's not the fastest to steer around tight corners!... no problem that just means I throw a nose wheelie flick around sooner.
What dont I like?
The long chain stay sucks arse. The bike is near impossible to pull into an extended manual. I'm going to have to learn a new technique to get the front up for when you need to do those extended manuals.
If they ever release shorter chain stay rear end or Mullet rear end I'll be in line for an upgrade.
Still got a bunch of suspension set up to do. But got a good ride around some of my entertaining lines around town.
What did I like, what didnt i like?
It is the steep descender. It handled the steeps with ease and control. Suspension is reasonably buttery even though not properly configured. Climbing tech as predicted is stupid good.
Chugging down endless chairs was child's play. It does indeed feel like a dh rig with a motor.
I'm glad as hell I went for k1 size. It's a monster truck at k1.
In mullet config she's not the fastest to steer around tight corners!... no problem that just means I throw a nose wheelie flick around sooner.
What dont I like?
The long chain stay sucks arse. The bike is near impossible to pull into an extended manual. I'm going to have to learn a new technique to get the front up for when you need to do those extended manuals.
If they ever release shorter chain stay rear end or Mullet rear end I'll be in line for an upgrade.
Darkyhs
Well-known member
So, this weekend I have ridden both my bikes. My friend has his bike in the shop(analog bike, stumpy Evo), and I gave him my Levo. During our ride, I wanted to try out the Levo again. My god, what a difference
. Almost like going from a very stable boat, to a jumpy speedboat that doesn't have any grip. Not sure how come this difference was this huge, but it was. I can genuinely say. I love the Pole and will not ride the Levo in the future The Levo is fantastic, don't get me wrong. But it doesn't compare to the confidence the Voima gives. My friend who is almost 6 CM smaller than me, couldn't believe it either.
Keep in mind, I do have the standard S-Works Levo setup, with the 38 with 160 and the Float X2 with 150. No long shock kit or changes.
Blownoutrides
Active member
I think it’s pretty clear the rear end was designed around the K2 size but then allocated to the rest of the range without any tailoring. On a K3 (technically should be on K4) I’m super stoked - chain stays hit the sweet spot between keeping weight on the front and feeling semi-playful.
I like Crestline’s strategy of going mullet for every size but their XL. Pole might benefit from doing the same for the next update.
K0 = mullet
K1 = your choice
K2 = your choice
K3 = 29”
Redders473
Active member
Crestlines have different rear ends for that though. You can just throw a smaller wheel in but it's not the best.
Blownoutrides
Active member
Exactly. Seems it would be relatively easy for Pole to have size specific (or 27.5 / 29 specific) rear ends given their manufacturing capabilities.
I guess having the option for different size rear ends would be nice for rider preference. Having said that, I’m on a K1 with full 27.5 x 2.8’s with a dual crown and I couldn’t be more happy with my bike and the current geo, including the chainstay length. I think if the chainstays were any shorter, the bike would not be the mountain goat climber that it is and it would also have less high speed stability and be less forgiving. Everything is a trade off and compromise though, so it just depends on what the individual rider prefers and prioritizes. And since more and more are running a 27.5 rear, it would also be nice if you could order the bike or frameset preprogrammed for 27.5 so you get your bike with the correct top speed limit without having to take it to the bike shop to get reprogrammed for 27.5 after you get it.
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