Pole Voima 190mm Travel EMTB

[Plummet]

Maintaining similar stack height to my last few enduro bikes. Going higher could feel comfier seated but I’ve had issues with not enough pressure on front wheel when cornering when I’ve gone higher. Bar is 30mm rise but I’ve got a 50mm rise bar to play with. We’ll see.

Got a 500 and 550 from EXT. Went 550 to start with and feels pretty spot on, if a little on the soft side (?). Might swap the 500 for a 575 just to try it. My zone has a lot of jumps/drops but very few landings LOL. so having some spring in reserve doesn’t hurt.

How much fo you weigh?

 

[Blownoutrides]

How much fo you weigh?

245lbs

 

[Plummet]

245lbs

I created a ext spring calculator based on weight and leverage ratio. Here's what it spat out for you.

So 575 to 600lb looks to be bang on the money.

 

[Blownoutrides]

I created a ext spring calculator based on weight and leverage ratio. Here's what it spat out for you.

So 575 to 600lb looks to be bang on the money.

View attachment 116029

Whoa! Super cool - thank you!!

 

[BigG]

I’m 235lbs, very close. 600 feels very good, but only 25% sag and never even close to using full travel even after (small) drops/steps. With it bike feels close to an air shock, springy and poppy.
500 gives 33% sag, but feels just numb, like rear is not there at all. But no bottom outs yet.

 

[Plummet]

I’m 235lbs, very close. 600 feels very good, but only 25% sag and never even close to using full travel even after (small) drops/steps. With it bike feels close to an air shock, springy and poppy.
500 gives 33% sag, but feels just numb, like rear is not there at all. But no bottom outs yet.

Here's yours on my calculator.

That makes sense to me. 25% sag is running very firm for a 190mm frame. IMO you might as well run an airshock if you want it that firm.

 

[BigG]

That calculation confirms my conclusion that I need ~550, but I decided to just ride more and slim into 500 still shedding pandemic weight.
I wanted to try sprindex, with 510-570 range, but not planning on staying at this weight for long. Next sprindex is 450-490, which is a bit too low for target weight. I wish they had 475-525.

 

[Plummet]

That calculation confirms my conclusion that I need ~550, but I decided to just ride more and slim into 500 still shedding pandemic weight.
I wanted to try sprindex, with 510-570 range, but not planning on staying at this weight for long. Next sprindex is 450-490, which is a bit too low for target weight. I wish they had 475-525.

Do you really need a progressive spring when you have a progressive frame and hydraulic bottom out control? I'd suggest probably not as you might end up with too much progression.

As far as my calculator is concerned. Add your ideal weight + the bike weight together for total weight and times that by 1.65. That will give you the spring range at your "race" weight.

 

[BigG]

Sprindex is not progressive, it’s adjustable within stated range. Basically eliminates 1 of 2 coil downsides (second being weight) - adjustability. It’s not the same as preload, it does change spring rate.
Details:

First Look: Sprindex's Adjustable-Rate Coil Spring - Pinkbike

This clever coil spring lets riders easily adjust how firm it is by hand - no tools needed. Here's how it works.

m.pinkbike.com

 

[Robstyle]

Sprindex technically are progressive. Just in the last bit of travel. I've had 3 on different bikes, far prefer a straight coil, even a lower than recommended one with Lsc bumped felt better.

 

[Onetime]

Did you happen to edit this post? There were elements that didn't quite seem right, which led me to return for a more in-depth look. According to your estimations on weight, it wouldn't be possible to construct a 23kg bike. Yet, he managed to accomplish this.

Take into account the Bosch system, which weighs approximately 7.4kg in total. In contrast, common e-bike frames - those rated category 5 - typically fall within the 3.5 to 4.5kg range. Lighter e-bike frames do exist, around 2.5kg, but these do not meet the category 5 criteria and are composed of a thin, fragile carbon layer.

For reference, consider the Pole Voima LED, which we measured at our factory. The combined weight of the frameset and motor totaled 12.34kg. This weight discrepancy when compared to the Levo seems considerable, and I plan to revisit this matter for further examination.

It would be more feasible to weight the frames without the batteries and give the battery WH and weight separately.

My K1 weight without battery, but with a heavier Fox X2. 18.03 lbs/8.17kg.

 

[Alexbn921]

Cranks and battery would give a great baseline weight.

 

[Onetime]

Cranks and battery would give a great baseline weight.

Yeah, I built mine up before the battery arrived, so no can do.

 

[Onetime]

My Vital MTB Bike check for build spec and more pics.
2023 Pole️Voima️Race ID

 

[ebikerider]

Cranks and battery would give a great baseline weight.

Approx 500gms for the cranks and 4.5kg for a 750wh battery (I'll confirm the battery weight later) so that would bring the K1 frame weight to about 13.2kg or 29lbs.

 

[Onetime]

Approx 500gms for the cranks and 4.5kg for a 750wh battery (I'll confirm the battery weight later) so that would bring the K1 frame weight to about 13.2kg or 29lbs.

A little less with my cranks. They’re 372g.

 

[Blownoutrides]

A little less with my cranks. They’re 372g. View attachment 116219

My K3 rig just hit 60lbs with a coil, DH Conti’s, and cushcore F/R.

Not mad about it. Literally does not make a $hit’s worth of difference on trail.

Weight-weeny-ism (which I have been guilty of on my pedal bikes) seems to be a holdover from MTB’s XC roots. If heavier parts work better, the only real argument against them is more difficult climbing. The motor pretty much nukes that argument.

If the added weight is making the experience better, it would seem to be justified. As someone big who semi-frequently rolls tires off the bead, heavy casings and CushCore definitely add performance (and peace of mind… rolling tires can hurt!).

On that note, the weight of the lock mechanism seems like low hanging fruit that isn’t making anything better on an EMTB. Seems like Pole is stuck with it based on Bosch design requirements, however.

Interested to hear from any folks who really value the removable battery. Are you doing epic multi-battery days?

I wonder how much weight could be saved going to a closed setup requiring motor removal to swap the battery (?).

 

[Onetime]

My K3 rig just hit 60lbs with a coil, DH Conti’s, and cushcore F/R.

Not mad about it. Literally does not make a $hit’s worth of difference on trail.

Weight-weeny-ism (which I have been guilty of on my pedal bikes) seems to be a holdover from MTB’s XC roots. If heavier parts work better, the only real argument against them is more difficult climbing. The motor pretty much nukes that argument.

If the added weight is making the experience better, it would seem to be justified. As someone big who semi-frequently rolls tires off the bead, heavy casings and CushCore definitely add performance (and peace of mind… rolling tires can hurt!).

On that note, the weight of the lock mechanism seems like low hanging fruit that isn’t making anything better on an EMTB. Seems like Pole is stuck with it based on Bosch design requirements, however.

Interested to hear from any folks who really value the removable battery. Are you doing epic multi-battery days?

I wonder how much weight could be saved going to a closed setup requiring motor removal to swap the battery (?).

I know a lot of people don’t think the weight matters on an ebike because of the motor, including a bunch of my riding buddies. But I do think it makes a difference on how quickly the bike handles, how fast it accelerates and brakes. As well as how well it climbs and battery range. If a bike (and rider) are less weight then the motor and battery works less to do everything that it does. It’s like if you throw 2000 pounds on a Ferrari, it’s just not going to do anything better. They’re probably not huge differences on an ebike, but they’re there and I can feel and see it. I have a riding buddy with a stock Voima and I definitely get better range than he does, (he is bigger and his bike is heavier). But it really doesn’t matter because if you’re happy with your ride, or you need to add parts to make it more durable, that’s all that matters. I also know the weight helps a lot to keep the bike stable and planted and it improves traction, however I am weight weenie I guess and I always want push the envelope to see how light I can get my bikes while still being durable enough for me.

As for the locking mechanism and having a removable battery, I’m good with both. There needs to be something to lock and secure the battery in place and I want the convenience to be able to quickly and easily take the battery out if I need to or want to and I can as it is. I wouldn’t want it built in just to save a few ounces. Just my 2c.

 

[Mars2]

On gravity downhill more weight =faster
racing downhill ski's are crazy heavy one of the reason is they genratte more speed. their is also other reason why they have to be heavy.

But I like a lighter bike easier to move around downhill and more pop.

but every weight saving are not equal removing weight at bottom of bike or top of bike or rotating part don't have same effect.

 

[Plummet]

My K3 rig just hit 60lbs with a coil, DH Conti’s, and cushcore F/R.

Not mad about it. Literally does not make a $hit’s worth of difference on trail.

Weight-weeny-ism (which I have been guilty of on my pedal bikes) seems to be a holdover from MTB’s XC roots. If heavier parts work better, the only real argument against them is more difficult climbing. The motor pretty much nukes that argument.

If the added weight is making the experience better, it would seem to be justified. As someone big who semi-frequently rolls tires off the bead, heavy casings and CushCore definitely add performance (and peace of mind… rolling tires can hurt!).

On that note, the weight of the lock mechanism seems like low hanging fruit that isn’t making anything better on an EMTB. Seems like Pole is stuck with it based on Bosch design requirements, however.

Interested to hear from any folks who really value the removable battery. Are you doing epic multi-battery days?

I wonder how much weight could be saved going to a closed setup requiring motor removal to swap the battery (?).

I started off my e-bike research wanting super light but full power and was looking at the 23 orbea wild. But then I took a demo bike into the Rotorua bike park and burnt the battery in 3 hours and 5 runs. I realized for a full day in the bike I would need 2 batteries and swap out during the day.

When I do a lad weekend away I want to be in the forest all day. We typically do 8 runs shuttling with mountain bikes. I want to make that 10-12 runs e-biking.

Ironically for most of my local rides are withing 2 hours. So for that I could get away with a 500hw battery..... So.
Removable battery, with different battery size options is of high interest to me. So much so that i'll be adapting a 500hw battery into the voima when it turns up... Then i'll be able to compete with Onetimes Voima weight until he retrofits a smaller battery in.....

 

[Jay29er]

First ride with my K3 today. We rode little over 25 miles with approx 3500 ft climbing. Battery was still at 19% when we got back to truck. Only used race and EMTB modes.
As far as sizing the size is spot onfor me at 6’1” with 35” inseam. Wouldn’t change a thing on that running the oneup dropper shimmed to 190 perfect fit. The bike is absolutely awesome. Transmission takes some time to get used to on the shifting aspect but pretty smooth overall. Couldn’t recommend the specialized cannibal tires enough. Awesome grip and can really lean them over. Also running WAO Strifes and pretty great which is no surprise. Running the convergence on my KSL. Hope all this mess makes sense somewhat.

 

[ebikerider]

First ride with my K3 today. We rode little over 25 miles with approx 3500 ft climbing. Battery was still at 19% when we got back to truck. Only used race and EMTB modes.
As far as sizing the size is spot onfor me at 6’1” with 35” inseam. Wouldn’t change a thing on that running the oneup dropper shimmed to 190 perfect fit. The bike is absolutely awesome. Transmission takes some time to get used to on the shifting aspect but pretty smooth overall. Couldn’t recommend the specialized cannibal tires enough. Awesome grip and can you really lean them over. Also running WAO Strifes and pretty great which is no surprise. Running the convergence on my KSL. Hope all this mess makes sense somewhat.

So do you like the Cannibals or not lol

 

[Jay29er]

So do you like the Cannibals or not lol

First ride today and yes…lol

 

[d3ftone]

Not that weight is all that important, but Miranda carbon cranks are on sale and are very light. Been moving these from bike to bike and they'll go on the Voima.

 

[Plummet]

Not that weight is all that important, but Miranda carbon cranks are on sale and are very light. Been moving these from bike to bike and they'll go on the Voima.

View attachment 116493

Where are they on sale? Do you have s link?

 

[d3ftone]

Where are they on sale? Do you have s link?

Carbon Fiber Cranks 165 Q:8 Isis Standard (Black) for E-BIKE

What's included: Right and left crank arms, installation bolts

mirandabikestore.com

 

[Plummet]

Not that weight is all that important, but Miranda carbon cranks are on sale and are very light. Been moving these from bike to bike and they'll go on the Voima.

View attachment 116493

Where are they on sale? Do you have s link?

Carbon Fiber Cranks 165 Q:8 Isis Standard (Black) for E-BIKE

What's included: Right and left crank arms, installation bolts

mirandabikestore.com

That is a good deal. What do I need in the way of spider/chainring for the voima? i'm not up to speed on whats required on E bikes. The bike is coming with RF affect. I'm pretty keen to swap out to one of these bastards.

 

[Onetime]

Where are they on sale? Do you have s link?

That is a good deal. What do I need in the way of spider/chainring for the voima? i'm not up to speed on whats required on E bikes. The bike is coming with RF affect. I'm pretty keen to swap out to one of these bastards.

You can get a separate spider and chainring or a one piece chainring. The one piece direct mount chainring is a little lighter, but the 2 pc gives you more options. I have both, but I’ve been using the 1 pc direct mount chainring.

 

[Blownoutrides]

Not that weight is all that important, but Miranda carbon cranks are on sale and are very light. Been moving these from bike to bike and they'll go on the Voima.

View attachment 116493

Head to 2:23

Having wrecked 2 sets alloy cranks on drops (and bent half a dozen), the idea of carbon cranks on a 190 rig with a motor is… interesting.

 

[Onetime]

Head to 2:23

Having wrecked 2 sets alloy cranks on drops (and bent half a dozen), the idea of carbon cranks on a 190 rig with a motor is… interesting.

Carbon cranks have been around for a long time on all bikes including World Cup DH bikes. They’re fine on the Voima. I had e13 carbon cranks on my first Voima and they handled everything from black diamond trails and bike park sessions without issues. I’ve personally have had several sets on different bikes over the years, from XO carbon, race face next SL, race face six-c, e13 and now race face era’s on the new Voima and I’ve never had any issues with any of them.