PART # 2: ORBEA RISE - LOWER MAIN LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

[Rod B.]

This is Part Two in a two part series on servicing the Rise pivot bearings and linkage. Part Two will discuss servicing the Rise's lower main pivot axle and bearings. If possible, please read Part One before continuing with this article.

In Part One, "Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service" I discuss:

1. Upper linkage disassembly and reassembly.
2. Pivot bearing inspection and type of Enduro bearings used on the Rise.
3. How to remove a bearing seal, clean the bearing and re-lubricate the bearing.
4. Bearing greases recommended by Enduro.

Preface:
After you've been riding your Rise for awhile, you may notice your Rise has started to make a creaking noise while riding. The sound will sound similar to a creaking seat post or seat. You may also notice that the rear suspension may begin to feel stiff and not as plush as it used to be. You may question your shock/settings due to the stiffness in the suspension. In most circumstances, there is nothing wrong with your rear shock, the seat post or saddle rail clamp. The stiff suspension and or creaking noise may be attributed to a upper or lower pivot axle, linkage arms and or bearings in need of cleaning and lubrication.

Like many things on a bike, the pivot linkage needs the occasional bit of love. As a personal rule, I like to full service clean, inspect and lube the suspension linkage on my bikes every six months. I grease the upper and lower pivot axles every few months. This keeps noises to a minimum and the suspension functioning smoothly. You don't want to skip servicing the suspension linkage on your bike, it will make a good bit of difference in how your bike performs. Depending upon the frequency of your rides, distance covered, the riding climate and type of terrain your ride, you may only need to service your linkage once a year, or you may need to do it more frequently than every six months.

It’s important to keep in mind that the upper and lower pivot axles on the Rise do not have any seals or O rings which prevent water or dust from working its way into where the alloy axle contacts and rides upon the steel bearings. I’ve found that if the bike is exposed to frequent moisture or powdery dust, it will eventually wash out or dry up the pivot axle grease. Depending upon which axle runs dry of lubrication, it will start making a creaking noise caused by the alloy axle rubbing on the steel pivot bearing races. As I stated before, the noise will sound exactly the same as a seat post or saddle creaking. It’s also been my experience the upper pivot axle needs to be lubricated more frequently than the lower pivot axle.

To determine the condition of your rear suspension, place the bike in a bike stand. Remove the rear wheel. Wrap a soft rag around the front area your rear shock. Remove the shock's front mounting bolt. Lower the shock down so that it rests on the downtube. The rag will protect the paint.

With your hands, slowly raise and lower the rear triangle. With your ears listen for noise as you move the triangle up and down. There should be no grinding, grittiness, or squeaking noise. With your fingers, feel for resistance in the movement, any stiff spots, as you rotate the triangle. The movement should be smooth and easy. If you encounter noise and or, resistance, then your linkage needs service.

In most instances during disassembly and inspection, you will find the pivot bearings on your Rise will be fine. You will only need to clean and re-lubricate the exterior contact points where the bearing touches bolts, linkage arm and or the axle.

Occasionally, you will come across a pivot bearing that is frozen or stiff to spin. This may be because the bearing has flat spots, dirt has contaminated the bearing grease and or, water has worked past the bearing seal and rusted the steel bearing components. Stiff bearings will cause your Rise suspension to perform like an overinflated rear shock and your bike will track poorly on rough terrain.

If you encounter a frozen or hard to spin pivot bearing, you will need to determine why the bearing isn't functioning. To do this, remove the bearing's outer seal, fully clean the bearing, and inspect it for function. If after cleaning, the bearing spins freely without any bumpy or rough feeling, then all you will need to do is re-lubricate the bearing. If after cleaning the bearing does not spin easily, or exhibits a rough feeling, then the bearing will need to be replaced.

Enduro recommends the following greases for the bearings used on the Rise:

Grease and Lubricants

www.endurobearings.com

I do not cover replacing the pivot bearings in this tech series. While it's not too difficult to replace a pivot bearing, it does require some mechanical skill and a few specialized tools. If you don't know what you are doing, you can easily damage the frame where the bearing inserts, the paint, or the new bearing itself by improper installation. If you do not possess the mechanical skills or tools to replace a pivot bearing, I recommend taking your Rise to your local bike shop and have the bearings replaced.

Here are several good YouTube videos on servicing a pivot bearing and also the removal and replacement of pivot bearings should you wish to do the work yourself.



The Lower Main Pivot Assembly:
The lower main pivot axle bearing assembly consists of two Enduro bearings which are housed in the main frame. The two bearings differ in size. The left, non-drive side of the frame, uses is an Enduro 6803LLU Max BOSL (Black Oxide Coating) bearing. The right, drive side of the frame, uses an Enduro 6802LLU Max BOSL bearing.

Note: "LLU" refers to the seal design used on the bearing, which is a "Dual Lip" and "Full Contact" seal. This is one of the better designs at keeping contaminants out of the bearing. "Max" refers to the absence of an inner bearing retainer and allows room for the "Maximum" amount of bearings to be installed in the bearing. Refer to Part One in my series for further explanation on "LLU" and "Max" terminology.

The Lower Main Pivot Axle Assembly:

You have the option of removing the upper and lower linkage and allow the rear triangle to hang off the bike of the bike. Or, as I personally like to do, remove and replace the upper and lower pivot sections one at a time as separate procedures. Either way will work.

How the lower main pivot axle functions:
The Orbea Rise, Blue Paper diagram below details the lower pivot axle assembly and grease points. Also listed are the proper torque settings.

How it all works:
A split bronze bushing is inserted into the opening located on the left, "non-drive" chain stay. The lower pivot axle is threaded on one end and machined on the inside to accept an 8mm hex wrench. The axle is inserted through the bushing, the left chain stay, through the two frame pivot bearings and threaded into the right, drive side chain stay. A 8mm hex driver is used to tighten the axle to the correct torque setting.

The axle is prevented from backing out due to the split bushing and collet wedge. After the axle has been threaded into the chain stay, the collet wedge and collet wedge bolt are threaded into the end of the axle. As the collet wedge is tightened, it expands the head of the axle outward, which in turn expands the split bushing and locks the axle in place. Some mad engineering going on here.....

Lower Main Pivot Axle Service Procedure:
1. Place your Rise in a bike stand. Remove the rear wheel.

2. Wrap a rag around the front of the rear shock to cushion it. Remove the from shock mounting bolt. Lower the front of the shock until it rests on the downtube.

3. Using a hex driver, remove the collet bolt from the lower pivot axle. Remove the collet wedge from the axle.

4. On the left, non-drive side of the motor a black rubber routing tube which will hinder removal of the axle. The routing tube is used to route the rear brake hose from above the motor to the rear triangle. Clipped to the bottom of the routing tube is the small speed sensor wire coming from the rear triangle speed sensor to the motor.

Right and left routing tubes

In order to remove the axle, the left side routing tube will need to be folded slightly out of the way. Don't go crazy with the folding, you don't want to damage the brake hose. You want to fold it over just enough to be able to remove the axle.

The speed sensor wire is attached to the routing tube and held in place via small press fit rubber clamps molded into the bottom of the routing tube. Unclip the speed sensor wire from the clamps. Push excess brake hose from the rear caliper towards the routing tube in order to add slack in the brake hose at the routing tube. Pull up on the routing tube and out of it's mounting holes in the frame. Fold the routing tube slightly over and out of the way. Unthread the axle and remove it.

5. After removing the axle, you will see a split bushing located on the left (Non-Drive) side of the swing arm where the axle is inserted into the triangle. Remove the bushing.

6. With the axle removed, you can now lower or raise the rear triangle out of the way enough to inspect the lower pivot bearings. If the bearings spin easily and smoothly, you need only wipe the surface of the bearings to remove dirt and grime and place a small dab of grease on the inner part of the bearing where the axle will contact it.

If the bearings are rough or hard to spin, remove the rubber seal and clean the bearings. If after cleaning the bearings they still spin roughly or are hard to spin, you should replace the bearing(s). If the bearings spin freely after cleaning, repack the bearings with grease and reinstall the rubber seal with the correct side facing the ball bearings. Wipe excess grease from the bearing and bike frame using a towel.

5. Clean the lower pivot axle, all hardware, the triangle where the axle is threaded and where the bushing is inserted.

Lower pivot assembly installation

1. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of the lower pivot bearings races mounted in the frame.

2. Apply a light film grease to the inside of the split bushing. Insert the bushing into it's housing on the left side of the rear triangle.

3. Apply a small amount of grease to the the threaded end of the axle and the shoulders of the axle where the axle will ride on the frame pivot bearings.

4. Lift or lower the rear triangle into position so it lines up with the bearings. Fold the brake hose guide tube out of the way and Insert the lower pivot axle into the bushing and through the bearings. Thread the axle into the right, drive side rear triangle insert using an 8mm hex driver, torque the axle to 20 N.m.

5. Insert the black rubber routing hose back into the holes in the frame and reattach the speed sensor wire to the guide tube clamps. Pull the brake hose back out of the rear triangle and to it's original position at the rear caliper.

6. Insert the collet wedge into the axle. Apply a film of grease on the collet wedge bolt and thread into place. Tighten the collet bolt to 5 N.m. Orbea does not specify thread locker for the axle or collect wedge bolt.

7. Rotate the rear triangle up and down and insure it moves freely and smoothly and without any side to side play.

8. Cheers.....you've completed the lower pivot axle linkage.

Rear Seat Stay Bearings:

Two Enduro 6803LLU Max, black oxide pivot bearings are located at the end of the chain and seat stay triangle. The pivot bearings facilitate a slight pivot movement between the chain and seat stays at the rear triangle. They do not see a lot of movement, but are important in maintaining rear triangle stability.

They will occasionally need to be examined for play or lack of function, and lubricated.

 

[Richridesmtb]

Excellent work again, Rod. This is the same process as the Rallon, only the Rallon is much easier to get the brake line out of the way as it doesn't have the extra housing. Glad to see that it is not much more difficult.

 

[GTBusso]

Would be great if these 2 suspension threads were sticky’s.

 

[jcismo1]

Would be great if these 2 suspension threads were sticky’s.

I agree!!

 

[Rod B.]

I agree!!

Does anybody know how to do this?

 

[Mteam]

On that diagram above, the one that pictures the rear wheel dropout, does anyone have any tips for how to remove the retaining ring (number 3.3)that holds the non drive side bearing in place?

I've tried a fine screwdriver, pliers (too fat) etc, but I can't get it out.

 

[Rod B.]

Mteam,

The left, (non-drive side) drop out is held in place with a rubber "O"ring. It's a tight tolerance fit. The retaining clip you see in the parts diagram is used to hold the bearing in place on the swing arm.

To remove the left side drop out, remove your rear wheel. Partially thread your rear axle back into the threaded drop out. With a soft rubber mallet, smack the axle inwards. Hold the swingarm to keep it steady as you whack the axle. This will drive the drop out of it's mount on the swing arm.

The right, drive side derailleur drop out, is held in place by the plastic castellated knob which the rear axle tightens against. To remove the right side derailleur drop out, twist the castellated plastic knob counter clockwise to remove it and gain access to the bearing.

 

[Mteam]

Mteam,

The left, (non-drive side) drop out is held in place with a rubber "O"ring. It's a tight tolerance fit. The retaining clip you see in the parts diagram is used to hold the bearing in place on the swing arm.

To remove the left side drop out, remove your rear wheel. Partially thread your rear axle back into the threaded drop out. With a soft rubber mallet, smack the axle inwards. Hold the swingarm to keep it steady as you whack the axle. This will drive the drop out of it's mount on the swing arm.

The right, drive side derailleur drop out, is held in place by the plastic castellated knob which the rear axle tightens against. To remove the right side derailleur drop out, twist the castellated plastic knob counter clockwise to remove it and gain access to the bearing.

Thanks,I've already got all that apart, and have replaced the bearing on the drive side.

I also want to remove that retaining ring on the non drive side as the bearing it holds in place is knackered and needs to be replaced,but I can't seem to get the retaining ring out of its groove. Just wondering if anyone had any clever techniques to remove it?

 

[Rod B.]

Squirt the retaining clip and the groove with some WD-40. Take a round punch and tap the bearing inwards several times to insure the bearing is fully seated and not hard up against the C clip. Use two really thin flat tip screwdrivers or a screw driver and a dental pick. Those small eyeglass screw drivers that come in a kit work well. Work the tip of a thin screwdriver under the tip/end of the C clip and begin to work it out of the groove enough to get the other screw driver behind the clip. Work your way around the clip like using tire levers to work a tire off a rim.

It took me a bit of fiddling to get the clip out of the groove. As a side note, my bearing was completely frozen and I had to replace it.

 

[Rod B.]

Thanks,I've already got all that apart, and have replaced the bearing on the drive side.

I also want to remove that retaining ring on the non drive side as the bearing it holds in place is knackered and needs to be replaced,but I can't seem to get the retaining ring out of its groove. Just wondering if anyone had any clever techniques to remove it?

Orbea used to sell the drop out, bearing and C clip. I don't see it listed anymore. If your C clip is mangled, let me know. I still have a used spare which is in very good shape. I'll mail it to you.

 

[Mteam]

Orbea used to sell the drop out, bearing and C clip. I don't see it listed anymore. If your C clip is mangled, let me know. I still have a used spare which is in very good shape. I'll mail it to you.

Thanks ,will give it anoTher go and see where I get to

 

[Richridesmtb]

I just removed my lower pivot and the o ring is chewed up. Can anyone confirm it is a 16mm ID by 2mm o ring?

 

[Peter Cavojsky]

Yes, 16 x 2mm´ blue paper Rise

 

[Pezzar]

Brilliant guide - I'll still probably send it to my local Bike shop though

 

[Slo-zone]

Brilliant guide - I'll still probably send it to my local Bike shop though

FYI the Rise Hydro has a different pivot axle. It does not have the expanding wedge set up. It is basically a bolt and nut arrangement, the nut is on left side which allows the pivot axle to be removed on the drive side. No fussing with the cables.

 

[Rod B.]

Slo-zone, thank you for letting me know. I will edit the tech post to reflect this fact.

 

[Roman441]

For this purpose, again a question. When the axis is expanded, one has the axis, a slotted sleeve, a oring and a disc. Should these items after cleaning outside the frame only reassemble and then screw the complete package again? Or slotted sleeve only into the left chainstay and then the axis ?

 

[Rod B.]

For this purpose, again a question. When the axis is expanded, one has the axis, a slotted sleeve, a oring and a disc. Should these items after cleaning outside the frame only reassemble and then screw the complete package again? Or slotted sleeve only into the left chainstay and then the axis ?

I was just getting ready to head out on the trail. This will be quick.

I remove everything from the bike and individually clean and grease all of the axle parts parts, including the wedge. I also do a quick “Wipe Down” of the chainstay and where the bushing slips into the chainstay. I also wipe down the lower pivot bearings and apply grease to the bearing races where the axle will make contact.

I don’t take the bearings apart unless they are bad. In most instances you can get by with a few quick wipe down cleanings and lubes before the pivot bearings ever need to be replaced.

After everything as been cleaned of dirt, I reassemble the axle and associated parts and install. Make sure you assemble the O Ring and steel backing washer in the correct order. The steel backing washer goes onto the axle first, then the O ring.

 

[Roman441]

many thanks. I'm talking about the slotted sleeve. can I already mount it on the axle before screwing it in?

 

[Rod B.]

many thanks. I'm talking about the slotted sleeve. can I already mount it on the axle before screwing it in?

Roman,

Are you referring to the split bushing when you speak of the slotted Sleeve? If so, I would apply a very light coating of grease to the exterior and interior of the bushing and insert it into the chainstay. I would then install the axle. Bushing first, then axle.

I do it this way because if you install the split bushing onto the axle and insert the whole assembly as one unit, you could possibly cock the bushing during install and this might cut the "O" ring. Therefore, install the bushing and then install the axle.

When I first took my Rise lower axle assembly apart, it took me a moment to figure out how the design worked. The bushing, "O" ring, collet wedge and lower axle are firmly locked into place and do not move when installed into the chainstay. The purpose of the bushing is to prevent the large expandable head on the axle from chewing up the carbon fiber when the collect wedge is screwed into the axle and tightened. The axle head expands out and thus expands the split bushing out. This expansion locks the whole axle assembly to the chainstay. The "O" ring keeps grit from working it's way between the axle and bushing interface. Small micro movements of flex in the axle and bushing would cause the grit to act like sandpaper. The "O" ring helps keep this grit out. The only thing that moves on the lower axle assembly is the axle which floats and rotates upon the two lower frame pivot bearings.

View attachment 80991

 

[Roman441]

yes I meant the Split bushing. Since it all came out as a complete package when I unscrewed it, I thought I would put it back together before screwing it in. I will unscrew it and screw it in separately. Thank you.

 

[sgtcurry]

Can you repost some of the pictures? They dont show up anymore. The LBS I bought my rise from took apart most of the motor mount bolts and the rear axle and I still have the creaking noise so it seems like I am going to have to take apart all the pivots and bearings to lubricate them.

 

[Rod B.]

Can you repost some of the pictures? They dont show up anymore. The LBS I bought my rise from took apart most of the motor mount bolts and the rear axle and I still have the creaking noise so it seems like I am going to have to take apart all the pivots and bearings to lubricate them.

SgtCurry,

When I checked the tech article, it was displaying all of the pictures and YouTube videos. Are you talking about the Part # 1 Upper Linkage or Part # 2 Lower Linkage article? Can you identify counting down from the top which pictures are missing, i.e. picture 5, picture 6? I also posted several YouTube videos with the tech article. Sometimes the YouTube links will go bad. Are the YouTube videos present?

Isolating a noise on a bike can be an absolute bitch. I've never experienced a creaking noise caused by a loose motor mount bolt, rear axle or lower motor guard. One think to note, it's been my experience that using the correct torque settings on the Rise is critical. Some bikes you can get away with using the "I'll turn it until my elbow pops method." With the Rise carbon frame, correct torque settings are essential, otherwise linkage arms become loose, crank arms fall off, etc. A good quality torque wrench is important, don't go cheap.

More than likely if you are experiencing a creaking noise on your Rise while riding, it'll be either the upper or lower pivot axle. Most likely, it will be the upper pivot axle. The pivot axles on the Rise are not sealed nor do they have O rings to keep dust or water from working into the area where the alloy axle rides upon the frame's steel pivot bearings. The axles will eventually go dry from lack of lubrication and cause a creaking noise as they shift with micro movements on the frame's steel pivot bearings. It's been my experience the noise occurs only while riding and will not occur when just sitting on the bike and bouncing up and down. The upper pivot axle tends to need lubrication more frequently than the lower pivot axle.

Another issue that will cause creaking is if the upper pivot linkage arms slip on the upper pivot axle and the pre-load opens up. A single pinch bolt is used hold each linkage arm onto the splined axle. You may experience a situation in which the upper linkage arms loosen or slip slightly on the upper axle and cause the pre-load, i.e. gap between the two linkage arms to grow wider. When this occurs, the axle can now shift side to side and will also cause a creaking noise. You can typically tell if this is occurring when you throw the bike into a corner and you feel the rear end sway or flex like you have a loose rear wheel. When you check the upper axle, there should be no axle visible between the frame and inside edge of the linkage arm. There should also be no side to side play.

If you are experiencing an issue with the linkage arms loosing their grip on the axle splines, then it's best to buy a bottle of Loctite 638 cylindrical retaining compound. Apply it to the upper axle splines and splined opening on the linkage arm. Set the correct preload using the purple Orbea pre-load tool. Make sure the pinch bolt has a dab of blue Loctite and tighten the pinch bolt to the correct torque setting. Refer to Part # 1: Upper Pivot Linkage Service for details.

Part # 1: Orbea Rise - Upper Linkage Axle and Bearing Service

Thank you to those who have contributed their experiences thus far to make this article better. I service the linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, axles, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months on my Rise. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. Very wet or powdery dirt...

www.emtbforums.com

I hope this helps. If you have further questions just ask. Please let me know how you make out with the creaking noise.

Be safe,
Rod

 

[balticmoe]

Hello Rod,

Your instructions are incredibly helpful, for my H30 and me virtually the "first" BluePaper.

Unfortunately, I also have the noise and would like to get to the upper linkage axle soon, the lower linkage was not the cause.

Part #1 is unfortunately missing a few pictures, I have tried to show this on a screenshot as an example. Is it possible that they were not uploaded correctly?

Many greetings and a nice start into the weekend - only 6 hours of work separate me from my Rise and the Trails.

 

[Rod B.]

PART # 1: ORBEA RISE - UPPER LINKAGE AXLE AND BEARING SERVICE

My 2021 Rise currently has 2,100 miles on the bike. The pivot bearings have held up nicely. I like to do a complete service of the pivot linkage, i.e. remove the linkage, inspect, clean and lubricate the bearings about every six months. I like to remove and lubricate just upper and lower pivot axles every two months. It all depends upon the conditions I've been riding in and how often I've had to wash my bike. Very wet or powdery dirt conditions, or frequent washings will dry out the Orbea factory grease lubricating the axles.

Here is a great YouTube video on removal and replacement of frame pivot bearings should it be necessary during your inspection.


Let's Begin:
If you've ridden your Rise for awhile, you may notice it has started to make an irritating creaking noise while riding. The creaking noise will sound very similar to a creaking seat post or saddle. The sound will start out small, but over time will become progressively worse. You may also notice the smooth and plush suspension feeling the bike had when new is gone.

In most circumstances, there is nothing wrong with your rear shock, or the seat post or saddle rail clamps. The creaking noise you hear is typically caused by a pivot axle requiring lubrication. The stiff suspension may possibly be attributed to dirty pivot linkage and bearings requiring a cleaning and service. Note, I cover servicing the lower pivot axle assemble in a Part # 2 separate article.

Before you begin taking you bike linkage apart, consider buying a pivot bearing kit from Orbea. If during the inspection process you do encounter a bad bearing, you don't want to be caught short trying to source a new bearing and possibly lose ride time sourcing a bearing.

The Upper Pivot Axle on the Rise is made out of aluminum and rides upon two steel bearings mounted in the frame. The fit between the bearings and the axel is a close tolerance fit. The axle does not have a seal to keep dirt or water from working between the bearing and axle. Dry powdery conditions or exposure to water will wash lubrication from the axle area. If the axle runs dry of lubrication, creaking and wear on the axle's aluminum shoulders will occur. This ultimately leads to sloppy rear linkage and replacement of the splined axle.

Play in the linkage arms can also cause creaking. Each linkage arm is held in place with a single pinch bolt. The arms may slip on the splined axle. When this occurs, the linkage arms will open up and play will develop. The axle can now slide side to side and may cause a creaking noise as it shifts across the bearings. If you will feel the rear end sway or flex sideways like you have a loose rear wheel during cornering, a loose linkage arm may be the culprit. You can tell if this has happened with a visual inspection. When you check the upper axle, there should be no axle visible between the frame and inside of the linkage arm. There should also be no side to side lateral play in the axle assembly. If you are experiencing an issue with the linkage arms slipping on the axle splines, then it's best to buy a bottle of Loctite 638 cylindrical retaining compound. Loctite 638 works similar to Loctite thread locker. It helps the splined axle mate securely to the linkage arms and creates a firm attachment. It's made so that components can be disassembled at a later date.

Bearings:
Bearings used on the Rise are manufactured by Enduro. They have a black oxide finish which inhibits corrosion. The Enduro bearings on the Rise are a "LLU" and "Max" design.

LLU indicates a bearing that has a full contact, dual lip seal, which rides in a groove on the inner race. This type of seal is very good at keeping contaminants out of the bearing.

"Max" is a term used by Enduro. It refers to the absence of an inner bearing retainer. By removing the bearing retainer, Enduro is able to pack the "Maximum" amount of ball bearings into the bearing.

Cross section of a typical bearing with nylon inner bearing retainer

Cross section of Enduro LLU Max bearing. Note there isn't a retainer

The Cleaning Process:
Because the pivot bearings are mounted in the frame and linkage arm, you will only have access to one side of the bearing. I like to use a spray cleaning product such as a chain cleaner to forcibly help clean and dissolve the old grease from the bearing. I've found Maxima chain cleaner works well when cleaning bearings. The product works quickly at dissolving old bearing grease. It's safe to use on rubber, metal and carbon fiber components. If you don't have access to a spray detergent cleaner, WD40 also works well at dissolving grease.

Seal Removal:
After you have cleaned the exterior of the bearing, linkage arm and frame. You will need to remove the bearing's outer rubber seal. I use a hobby knife like what's pictured below. Any razor or thin blade will work, just remember you want to be careful and not cut or bend the seal during the removal process. To remove the seal, insert the tip of the razor slightly between the outer bearing race and the edge of the seal. Gently pry up. You may have to free up the seal in several places to get it to pop up.

The rubber seal on cartridge bearings has an inner and outer side. The inner side of the seal which faces the ball bearings will have an exposed metal grove to accommodate the bearings. The picture below depicts the inner side of a bearing seal with the groove.

Bearing Inspection:
Pivot bearings typically only rotates a few degrees. Because of this lack of rotation, only a few of the ball bearings will consistently take the brunt of force. Those few ball bearings will eventually develop flat spots which hinders smooth rotating suspension.

After you have fully cleaned the bearing, rotate it with your fingers. Feel for a bumpy rough feeling. If after cleaning the bearing is hard to rotate or exhibits a rough feeling, the bearing will need replacement.

Note: You may get a rough or bumpy feeling if the grease is dry or grit has gotten into the bearing and contaminated the grease. Therefore, it's very important to fully clean the bearing before checking for bearing flat spots or ease of movement. You want the bearing to rotate smoothly and easily.

Bearing Grease:
Enduro recommends three types of lubricants for the Enduro bearings on your Rise. The type of lubricant you use, will depend on your riding environment. The three types of grease Enduro recommends are:

1. Mobil XHP 222
2. Almagard 3752
3. CRC Marine (Stalube Product #SL3120)

Grease and Lubricants

www.endurobearings.com

When greasing the bearing pivot points and hardware, try not to over grease. Too much is almost as bad as not enough. Excess grease will accumulate in the pivot points, attract dirt and cause linkage stiction which we don't want.

To grease a bearing, take a dab of grease with your finger and begin pushing the grease into the bearing. Work your way around the circumference of the bearing. Do not completely pack the bearing solid with grease. You want lubrication but also easy bearing movement after the seal has been re-installed.

After greasing, center the rubber seal on the bearing, smooth rubber side out, groove side of seal inwards, and lightly push the seal into place with the pad of your thumb. It will pop into place easily. If you push hard or use your fingernails to push the seal into place. You will bend and deform the seal. After installing the seal, wipe off all of the excess grease from the frame and bearing surfaces to prevent dirt accumulation.

Here is an excellent YouTube video on greasing bearings:



Orbea Rise diagram showing the upper axle pivot linkage, areas requiring grease, and hardware torque settings

Tools:
The hex portion on Rise linkage screws can easily be deformed. Because of this, I like to use 1/4" or 3/8" hex socket drivers to remove and install the linkage. I find they will cause less damage than a "T" handle hex wrench.

If you don't own a torque wrench, consider buying one. Without a torque wrench, it's very easy to over or under tighten a bolt, or possibly damage a carbon fiber frame by over tightening a bolt.

When shopping for a torque wrench, buy a torque wrench which reads in Newton Meters and not Inch Pounds. Bike specs are typically listed in Newton Meters. Lastly, buy a torque wrench that has a low torque range i.e. 1 to 20 N.m. A torque wrench which reads 1 to 200 N.m. won't be as accurate at the lower torque settings typical for a bicycle, i.e. 4 or 6 N.m

Upper Axle and Linkage Removal & Installation:
Personally, when I do a full service cleaning and lubrication of the pivot linkage, I like to do the upper pivot linkage separately from the lower main pivot axle. You can remove the upper and lower pivot assembly all at once, however you'll have to contend with a loose chain stay flopping about. Lastly, if I am just greasing the upper axle, I do a shortcut disassembly by leaving the shock in place and I just remove the upper linkage arms and axle for greasing. Below, I am providing below a full blown and in depth disassembly of the linkage. I leave it up to you to decide which method or shortcut in the procedure you wish to do.

1) Place your Rise in a bike stand. Remove the rear axle and wheel to unweight the rear triangle.

2) Wrap a rag around the front portion of the rear shock. Using a hex wrench/driver, remove the front shock mounting bolt. The rag will prevent the shock from dropping down and damaging the paint on the downtube.

With the front of the rear shock removed, move the rear triangle up and down to see if you can feel or hear binding, grinding etc. This will give you a general idea of what condition your pivot linkage is in.

3) Remove the right/left seat stay hex bolts where they attach to the linkage arms.

4) Remove the right/left rear shock extender hex bolts where they attach to the linkage arms.

5) Remove the right and left pinch (Clench) bolts located on the bottom side of the linkage arms.

6) Six spacer washers are used in the upper suspension linkage. Two large spacer washers are used for the shock extender. They mount on the inner side of the linkage arm. Four smaller spacer washers are used for the seat stay. They mount on the inner and outer sides of the linkage arms. They may fall out, don't lose them.

6) After both pinch bolts have been removed, pull the seat stay arms away from the linkage and remove each linkage arm from the upper axle. The arms easily come off. Sometimes rocking the arms or a gentle tapping with a soft rubber mallet helps.

7) With the linkage arms removed, the upper axle will be exposed in the frame. Rotate the axle to see if it is binding or hard to remove. This will give you a general idea of what condition your upper pivot frame bearings are in.

8) The upper axle is threaded on one side to accept an Orbea pre-load tool. The Orbea Rise "Blue Paper" states the threaded side of the axle faces the right "Drive side" of the bike. Your bike may come with the axle threads facing to the left side. During re-assembly install the threaded axle facing to the right, drive side.

9) With a rubber mallet, softly tap the upper axle out of the frame bearing assembly. The axle has a tight fit and will not easily slide out of the bearings. Some tapping with a soft rubber mallet and a wood dowel may be required to fully release the axle. Be very careful not to deform the aluminum axle.

10) After the upper linkage assembly has been removed, begin the cleaning process. I like to place the dirty items on a towel. As I clean, I transfer the cleaned hardware to an adjacent clean towel. The towel prevent everything from rolling around and getting lost.

1. Clean all of the mounting hardware and washers.
2. Clean each linkage arm and splined inlet where the upper axle inserts into the arm. The splined inlet must be clean for Loctite 638 to work.
3. Clean the two bearings in each linkage arm. Check the bearings for smooth action.
4. Check the two pivot bearings mounted in the frame. Check the bearings for smooth action.

Note: If any of the linkage arm or frame pivot bearings spin smoothly, I do not take them apart. Instead, I just clean the bearing surfaces. If the bearings do not spin easily/smoothly, I remove the outer rubber seal and clean the bearing. If after cleaning the bearings do not spin freely, I replace them. After a successful inspection, I repack the bearing with fresh grease and reseal the bearing.

Reinstallation:

Note: Because the axles are not sealed, water can wash out the grease lubricating the axle. If you wash your bike frequently or ride in wet and muddy conditions you should use a waterproof grease. I like Schaeffer's 219 SynForce Green which is a synthetic waterproof grease. It holds up extremely well in wet conditions or frequent bike washings. I also like that it's a "Green" grease with low aquatic toxicity and won't contaminate waterways during stream crossings.

https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/302-219-td.pdf

1) With the upper linkage hardware and bearings cleaned and lubricated, you can begin the upper re-assembly.

2) Apply a liberal amount of grease around the inside race of the two axle bearings mounted in the frame. Apply Loctite 638 or similar to the splines on the left non-threaded side of the axle and also inside the splined interface on the left linkage arm. I use my finger to spread the retaining compound around to insure full coverage.

NOTE: The Orbea Rise Blue Paper requests that a cylindrical retaining compound be used on the axle splines. The blue paper does not specify which retainer compound to use. The Orbea Rallon shares a similar linkage design. The Orbea Rallon Blue Paper recommends Loctite 638 as the "cylindrical retaining compound" to be placed upon the upper pivot axle splines.

3) Hold the left (Non-drive side) linkage arm in your hand and insert the axle into the left linkage arm. Apply blue thread locker onto a linkage arm pinch bolt and thread it into the arm. Insure the axle is fully seated into the linkage arm interface and torque the pinch bolt to 10 N.m. Wipe off any excess Loctite 638 that may drip out.

4) Apply a film of grease to the shoulders of the axel. While holding onto the left linkage arm, insert the axle into the two frame mounted pivot bearings. The axle will slide in easily through the first bearing. You will meet resistance when the axle meets the bearing on the opposite side. Move the axle about to align it squarely with the bearing race on the opposite side. Using a soft rubber mallet, lightly tap the linkage arm and axle into place. No pounding or forcing. Check that the left linkage arm is fully seated against the pivot bearing.

5) Your Rise should have come with a purple colored Orbea pre-load tool. The tool is used to set upper linkage arm pre-load and also to measure rear shock sag. Insure that the rubber pre-load spacer is threaded onto the pre-load tool.

7) Apply Loctite 638 to the axle splines on the right side of the axle. Do not apply any thread locker or retaining compound to the axle threads. Insure the threads are clean. Install the right side linkage arm onto the axel. Insure that the linkage arm is fully seated on the splined axle.

8) Thread the purple pre-load tool into the axle. As you thread, insure the rubber spacer is seated correctly and not cocked to where it can become pinched. If it is not centered correctly, it will become damaged during the tightening of the pre-load tool and a false pre-load will occur. Turn the pre-load tool until it stops. Do not overly tighten the purple pre-load tool as it will damage the rubber preload spacer. Check that no axle is visible between the inside of the linkage arm and the frame. Insure that the axle assembly rotates freely. If everything checks okay, apply a small dab of blue thread lock to a linkage arm pinch bolt. Insert it into the arm and torque the pinch bolt to 10 N.m. Remove the purple pre-load tool.

9) Apply a film of grease onto the seat stay mounting bolt shoulders. Avoid getting grease on the threads. Take two of the small seat stay washers and apply a dab of grease to them. Place the washers on the inner and outer sides of the linkage arm, centered over the seat stay bearings. The grease will keep the washers in place. Line up the seat stay with the bearing opening. Insert the seat stay bolt and torque to 10 N.m. Orbea does not specify thread locker for the seat stay bolt however I place a dab of blue thread locker on the threads.

10) Apply a film of grease to the shock extender mounting bolt shoulders. Avoid getting grease on the threaded portion of the bolt. Apply a small dab of blue thread locker to the threaded portion of each bolt. Take the two large shock extension washers and apply a small dab of grease to each one. This will hold them in place as you work. Position the washers on the inner side of each linkage arm and centered over the shock extender bearings.

Take the shock and slide the extension fork into position between the two linkage arms. Make sure the shock extension washers are sandwiched between the extension fork and the linkage arms. Maneuver the shock extension, washers and linkage arm into alignment so that the mounting bolts can be inserted and threaded into place. Torque both bolts to 15 N.m.

11) Apply a film of grease to the front shock mounting bolt. Apply a film of grease to the inside of the shock bushing and bushing face. Slide the shock up into position and thread the shock bolt into place. Orbea does not specify thread lock on the bolt. Torque the bolt to 6 N.m.

Cheers...you have completed the upper pivot assembly.

View attachment 89890

 

[Rod B.]

Hello Rod,

Your instructions are incredibly helpful, for my H30 and me virtually the "first" BluePaper.

Unfortunately, I also have the noise and would like to get to the upper linkage axle soon, the lower linkage was not the cause.

Part #1 is unfortunately missing a few pictures, I have tried to show this on a screenshot as an example. Is it possible that they were not uploaded correctly?

View attachment 89874

Many greetings and a nice start into the weekend - only 6 hours of work separate me from my Rise and the Trails.

Balticmoe,
Thank you for the nice comments, I do appreciate them. I learn from everybody myself. As people respond, I add the information to the tech article and it's a constantly evolving article. Unfortunately, eMTB Forum limits postings to a maximum use of 20,000 characters. Trying to edit and squeeze all the new details and photos into the post is a battle. I often have to cut and remove details in order to add new details.

Let me know if you can now view all of the pictures. I will update the original Part # 1 post to correct the missing images and reflect the new changes to the article.

 

[balticmoe]

Hey @Rod B. ,

it looks complete now. Thank you for this documentation and for uploading it again so quickly!

You can really see the work for creating such detailed postings and that helps me immensely as an office person. For example, for the conversion to a "Shigura" I got the engine in my H30 out and back in one piece with your instructions and it all still worked.

Many greetings from the Baltic Sea

 

[sgtcurry]

So I did the whole upper pivot assembly and while the suspension action itself is smoother that isn't where my creaking is coming from it seems. I narrowed it down to somewhere around the rear axle. The slower I pedal the louder it is.

I just changed the cassette to make sure it wasn't that. I am going to replace the chain which is fine according to the park tools chain checker and front chain ring tomorrow to see. I tightened up the derailleur as well.

 

[Richridesmtb]

So I did the whole upper pivot assembly and while the suspension action itself is smoother that isn't where my creaking is coming from it seems. I narrowed it down to somewhere around the rear axle. The slower I pedal the louder it is.

I just changed the cassette to make sure it wasn't that. I am going to replace the chain which is fine according to the park tools chain checker and front chain ring tomorrow to see. I tightened up the derailleur as well.

Do the lower pivot next. Last time I was chasing a noise I just cleaned and greased everything though.

 

[sgtcurry]

Do the lower pivot next. Last time I was chasing a noise I just cleaned and greased everything though.

I'll go ahead and do that while I do the chain and chainring as well just to cover all my bases. Hoping one of the 3 fixes it. If not I will probably have to see about replacing the rear axle bearings.