Orbea Rise Owners - Please Read

[e*thirteen Components]

That would be great if e*thirteen would respond to their warranty requests, but they don't. I filed my warranty claim on Sunday for my left pre load cap and have yet to hear back from e-thirteen. Also, I searched the internet for hours looking for their phone number for the US location in Petaluma CA and I can't find it anywhere. My bike shop has not heard back from them either. The bike shop has a phone number for e*thirteen and they won't give it to me. I spent almost $9,000 on a really nice emtn and was just riding it. I didn't think buying a brand new bike that i needed to investigate and check all bolts, etc. Wish I would have seen these forum threads before riding the bike. Shame on Orbea and especially e*thirteen

Hi @shredjim - I think we spoke with you on the phone last week. If Im mixing you up with someone else and you are still trying to get support please fire me a DM here and I can get you sorted.

Our apologies about the delay. The pandemic has had a big impact on the bike industry and we are seeing increased numbers of inquires with everyone out riding and buying bikes. We are getting to people as quickly as possible and are replying to warranty requests and phone calls first in, first out. When you submitted your warranty request you should have gotten a response highlighting current response times. We know it is not ideal but like many bike industry companies we are hiring as fast as possible and bringing in support resources from outside the CS team to supplement the demand increase.

 

[e*thirteen Components]

Hi All,
Just wanted to jump in and provide a reply here.

If you are experiencing crank loosening issues with the e*spec carbon cranks even after correct torque is applied to the pinch bolt, please reach out to your Orbea dealer / distributor for a resolution.

The TSB released earlier in the year is specifically for the alloy version of the e*spec EP8 cranks. We are currently evaluating some info regarding a TSB for the carbon cranks and will have that posted as necessary.

Regards,

The e*thirteen team

 

[shredjim]

Hi @shredjim - I think we spoke with you on the phone last week. If Im mixing you up with someone else and you are still trying to get support please fire me a DM here and I can get you sorted.

Our apologies about the delay. The pandemic has had a big impact on the bike industry and we are seeing increased numbers of inquires with everyone out riding and buying bikes. We are getting to people as quickly as possible and are replying to warranty requests and phone calls first in, first out. When you submitted your warranty request you should have gotten a response highlighting current response times. We know it is not ideal but like many bike industry companies we are hiring as fast as possible and bringing in support resources from outside the CS team to supplement the demand increase.

Hi Chris, yes it was me and I should have reported back that both my bike shop and e*thirteen ended up coming through with assistance. My bike shop has supposedly sold 5 Rises, one of which to one of my friends who I alerted to the crank arm pre load cap issue. The bike shop said they had contacted the other owners and had them bring their bikes back in to address the issue. I am traveling now, so your post caused this forum to send me an email, which caused me to immediately respond. Sorry for the delay. I might suggest that you contact Orbea and make sure that they are torquing both the pre load caps and the crank arm bolts to the specifications in your TSB, and there should not be problems. Getting told you shouldn’t ride your new $9k bike until you get a warranty issue repaired is a tough pill to swallow. Thanks again for your assistance!

 

[e*thirteen Components]

@shredjim - awesome. Glad we got ya sorted. Rest assured that we are actively working with Orbea on this; in conjunction with making improvements on our end.

We totally understand the sentiment and wish the situation was different also. We are working hard to make things right.

Cheers and happy trails!

 

[chrismechmaster]

@shredjim - awesome. Glad we got ya sorted. Rest assured that we are actively working with Orbea on this; in conjunction with making improvements on our end.

We totally understand the sentiment and wish the situation was different also. We are working hard to make things right.

Cheers and happy trails!

Really really good news I for one appreciate the replies and it’s good to know e*thirteen and or orbea are looking it to it all thanks for letting us know this

 

[Chicane]

@shredjim - awesome. Glad we got ya sorted. Rest assured that we are actively working with Orbea on this; in conjunction with making improvements on our end.

We totally understand the sentiment and wish the situation was different also. We are working hard to make things right.

Cheers and happy trails!

With this now being a well known issue, are ALL the current Rise bikes NOW leaving the factory with the crank arms being installed to the current spec?

Just asking because my Rise is due in early June and I would hope that Orbea has it right by now.

 

[Ducman71]

@e*thirteen Components Thank you for being proactive and communicative on this. Simple question that I may have missed the answer to: are the torque specs the same on the carbon arms as for the alloy arms (2nm preload cap, 14nm pinch bolt)?

UPDATE: Just saw the answer to this question in the manual for the carbon cranks you linked to in another thread. Thanks!

 

[shredjim]

With this now being a well known issue, are ALL the current Rise bikes NOW leaving the factory with the crank arms being installed to the current spec?

Just asking because my Rise is due in early June and I would hope that Orbea has it right by now.

Your bike might have been built before this was known a known issue. Therefore if it were my bike, I would follow the e*thirteen TSB. Depending on what model Rise you purchased, I would loosen the (4 bolts or 2 bolts on each crank) then loosen and remove the pre load cap. See if has blue loctite on the cap? If it does and the loctite looks fresh enough (if not or none on it put 1 drop of blue loctite on threads), then install and torque center pre load cap to 2 NM and crank arm bolts to 14 NM and you will be good.

 

[Bigtuna00]

I might suggest that you contact Orbea and make sure that they are torquing both the pre load caps and the crank arm bolts to the specifications in your TSB, and there should not be problems.

With this now being a well known issue, are ALL the current Rise bikes NOW leaving the factory with the crank arms being installed to the current spec?

I don't think Orbea installs the cranks. My Rise, built by Jenson USA, appears to have had the cranks installed by them. The white grease on the spindle matches the grease used throughout the rest of the build. Just to be clear, Jenson is delivering fully built bikes using a service called Kitzuma. But maybe they removed, greased, and reinstalled the cranks?

 

[Chicane]

I don't think Orbea installs the cranks. My Rise, built by Jenson USA, appears to have had the cranks installed by them. The white grease on the spindle matches the grease used throughout the rest of the build. Just to be clear, Jenson is delivering fully built bikes using a service called Kitzuma. But maybe they removed, greased, and reinstalled the cranks?

I will on be picking up my bike from Jensen as it’s a 100 mile round trip. Sounds like it should be GTG, but I will confirm with them.
I also prefer doing most of the work/maintenance myself on my bikes, so I’m also willing to double check myself if I feel it’s needed.

 

[jka]

I will on be picking up my bike from Jensen as it’s a 100 mile round trip. Sounds like it should be GTG, but I will confirm with them.
I also prefer doing most of the work/maintenance myself on my bikes, so I’m also willing to double check myself if I feel it’s needed.

Just ask them if they torqued the crank pinch bolts to the proper 10Nm. If whoever your talking to says yes, you can be sure that they have no idea. I don't care who installed them, I'd check them myself. It's about a 5 minute procedure to remove the arms, remove the spacer if still there (that's another good check to see if they followed the TSB) locktite and re-install them.

 

[chrismechmaster]

Just ask them if they torqued the crank pinch bolts to the proper 10Nm. If whoever your talking to says yes, you can be sure that they have no idea. I don't care who installed them, I'd check them myself. It's about a 5 minute procedure to remove the arms, remove the spacer if still there (that's another good check to see if they followed the TSB) locktite and re-install them.

14 nm confirmed by e*thirteen

 

[jka]

14 nm confirmed by e*thirteen
[/QUOTE

I know. It's just a test for them. If you ask if they torqued to 10Nm and they confirm it, you know they don't know what they are talking about.

 

[chrismechmaster]

Fair enough glad you confirmed that as we would have people torquing to 10 nm and having the arms fall off ??

 

[jka]

Fair enough glad you confirmed that as we would have people torquing to 10 nm and having the arms fall off ??

Yes!! That would NOT be good. Just a disclaimer everyone, it really is 14 Nm of torque.

 

[b33k34]

14 is the same spec as the pinch bolts on Shimano cranks.

Had real trouble getting mine off - so much thread lock used on the cap it had glued it in all around the edge as well as the threads - had to chip it/scrape it off with a pick. had run down the crank splines as well.

you only need a tiny amount according to every instruction set I've ever read for thread lock.

 

[b33k34]

This is beyond a joke now @e*thirteen Components . Stripping parts of our new his'n'hers Rises to invisiframe and swap out brakes. First one had a *lot* of blue thread lock on the cap (enough that I had to pick it out of the edges of the crank and splines to get the crank off. Second bike, undid pinch bolts first and that cap should come out easily but so much thread lock and cheese like aluminium the hex hole just completely rounded.

Obviously I'm going to need a replacement cap but in the short term *&*( knows how I'm going to get it out of there. Any suggestions anyone?

Every thread lock I've had says you only need a small drop on the threads - on the one I've got off so far there was thread lock covering almost the entire flat surface of the cap underneath - basically supergluing the cap and the cranks to the axle is NOT the answer.

Looking at the non-drive side whoever fitted the caps pretty much rounded off the hex when they installed it. must be massively over torque spec - a 6mm hex key is rattling around in it.

 

[mark.ai]

This is beyond a joke now @e*thirteen Components . Stripping parts of our new his'n'hers Rises to invisiframe and swap out brakes. First one had a *lot* of blue thread lock on the cap (enough that I had to pick it out of the edges of the crank and splines to get the crank off. Second bike, undid pinch bolts first and that cap should come out easily but so much thread lock and cheese like aluminium the hex hole just completely rounded.

Obviously I'm going to need a replacement cap but in the short term *&*( knows how I'm going to get it out of there. Any suggestions anyone?

Every thread lock I've had says you only need a small drop on the threads - on the one I've got off so far there was thread lock covering almost the entire flat surface of the cap underneath - basically supergluing the cap and the cranks to the axle is NOT the answer.

Looking at the non-drive side whoever fitted the caps pretty much rounded off the hex when they installed it. must be massively over torque spec - a 6mm hex key is rattling around in it.

Where did you buy it from? I'd expect them to be the ones who assembled it, not e-thirteen. Also saw you mention the red threadlock in another post ...

 

[RickBullotta]

Hi All,
Just wanted to jump in and provide a reply here.

If you are experiencing crank loosening issues with the e*spec carbon cranks even after correct torque is applied to the pinch bolt, please reach out to your Orbea dealer / distributor for a resolution.

The TSB released earlier in the year is specifically for the alloy version of the e*spec EP8 cranks. We are currently evaluating some info regarding a TSB for the carbon cranks and will have that posted as necessary.

Regards,

The e*thirteen team

@e*thirteen Components Just to be clear, the original poster (me) had issues with the non-drive side *CARBON* crank arm coming loose (and lost the preload cap). I ended up buying some 3rd party metal preload caps, 242 loctite, and torqued to 2Nm/12Nm. I also removed the pointless seal (which is really for a non eMTB spindle/BB setup). This is in contrast to your installation instructions which say to *grease* the preload cap and bolts.

 

[b33k34]

This is the one of 4 caps I've actually manage dot removed, and I only thought to take a pic AFTER I'd chipped off some of the thread lock that was on there.

Drilled out the centre of another one, tapped it, and have red-Loctite'd a bolt into it. Will see if that gets it to shift (and will then do the same to the remaining two.

Loctites

 

[b33k34]

red loctite didn't fix the bolt in. Does it not bond steel bolt to ally?

 

[b33k34]

finally out. Ended up hammering it with a punch and tapping it round. Help! Removing heavily thread locked crank preload bolt. | Singletrack Magazine Forum

 

[Bigtuna00]

finally out. Ended up hammering it with a punch and tapping it round. Help! Removing heavily thread locked crank preload bolt. | Singletrack Magazine Forum

Sounds like a nightmare! Glad you got it sorted, I hate those kinds of projects.

 

[Ducman71]

This is the one of 4 caps I've actually manage dot removed, and I only thought to take a pic AFTER I'd chipped off some of the thread lock that was on there.

Drilled out the centre of another one, tapped it, and have red-Loctite'd a bolt into it. Will see if that gets it to shift (and will then do the same to the remaining two.

That indeed looks like ham-fisted installation, but as others have pointed out, e*thirteen should not be the subject of your ire on this. The first place to complain is the shop you bought the bikes from, which is more than likely where the over enthusiastic application of thread locker and excessive tightening torque occurred.

 

[Ducman71]

This is in contrast to your installation instructions which say to *grease* the preload cap and bolts.

I had not noticed that, and it is odd. Assuming they meant XHP222 (instead of HXP222, which I've never heard of), at least they got the color right, as that grease is blue.

 

[Semi75]

That indeed looks like ham-fisted installation, but as others have pointed out, e*thirteen should not be the subject of your ire on this. The first place to complain is the shop you bought the bikes from, which is more than likely where the over enthusiastic application of thread locker and excessive tightening torque occurred.

I don’t know but, eThirteen is still the subject of ire to many of us who tried their clunky overpriced 9-46 11 speed cassettes a few years ago. It didn’t surprise me to see another issue with their parts.

 

[Frazzer]

After 2 pretty tame rides (no big drops or anything) my new Rise M-Team has a pronounced creak coming from the crank area, what I'd usually assume on a normal bike to be the bottom bracket creaking. Do you think this is an indication of the same issue?

Did not expect this given the price

 

[RickBullotta]

After 2 pretty tame rides (no big drops or anything) my new Rise M-Team has a pronounced creak coming from the crank area, what I'd usually assume on a normal bike to be the bottom bracket creaking. Do you think this is an indication of the same issue?

Did not expect this given the price

Likely. I would follow the threadlock/torque suggestions (or have a shop do it) before you risk damaging something.

 

[Frazzer]

Likely. I would follow the threadlock/torque suggestions (or have a shop do it) before you risk damaging something.

thanks Rick, no more riding till it's sorted then

 

[jka]

thanks Rick, no more riding till it's sorted then

It's certainly a pain that we have to do it, but it's a quick and easy fix as long as you have a torque wrench. I think it took me a total of 15-20 minutes.