Official Merida eOne-Sixty thread

[mxh]

I've not managed to find a manual or parts diagram for this bike yet - does anyone have one?

Specifically, I'm trying to confirm which way round the tapered spacers go between the suspension rocker arm and the frame. Does the taper point outwards or inwards? Unfortunately I didn't realise they were tapered when dismantling, so didn't note which way round they went!

 

[Studley]

The 2021 models have them here:

Bikefinder - MERIDA BIKES

Pick the model, there is a spare parts tab with the table and diagram

Not sure about past years

 

[Moonballs]

Thank you! Is that because of not enough spacers or different spacer shape? The 8000 I'm shooting for comes with the light and shaped spacers, but the cables still seem to go into the frame Under the spacers, and the head tube is still round, so I guess I can replace a shaped spacer with the round one for the MacRide.
Or to the cables go thru the spacers too? I would really appreciate a close up picture of the 9000's headset spacers and cables.

This might help 5:18

 

[mxh]

The 2021 models have them here:

Bikefinder - MERIDA BIKES

Pick the model, there is a spare parts tab with the table and diagram

Not sure about past years

That's the sort of diagram I'm after, but mine's a 2018 model.

They must have changed slightly over the years as the diagrams for the 2021 models don't appear to have the spacers that I'm referring to. My spacers are in between the two #11 bearings on these diagrams, sitting between the bearing and the frame.

Hopefully someone takes theirs apart sometime soon and can have a look for me!

 

[Arseni]

This might help 5:18

Thank You! This explains the headset internals really well. The bike is on the way to me, and it looks like headset should be very compatible with my child seat!

 

[gillyske]

Anyone had any luck finding an angle set for the 20/21 carbon e160's?

Really want to know if it's compatible with the slackr kit.

https://intl.9point8.ca/index.php?route=product/product&path=124&product_id=261

 

[MRe]

Has anyone upgraded the wheels on the 2021 e160? How did you fit the magnet to 6 bolt rotor hubs? My e160 has centre lock hubs with the magnet as part of the rotor (I think).
Is there a magnet that would fit onto the 6 bolt hubs (like hope fortus)? I've seem magnets for the levo, would they work? I'm not sure about the spacing.
Thanks.

Old post but I ended up buying Magura disks & magnets.

MAGURA Rotor MDR-P 203 mm | 6-hole, 44,87 €

MAGURA brake disc MDR-P 203 mm | 6-hole The light support provided by e-bikes puts a smile on your face every day, but at the same time increases the weight

r2-bike.com

MAGURA Sensor magnet for Brake Disc, 14,62 €

MAGURA sensor magnet for brake disc Original Magura sensor magnet for use on your brake disc The magnet is compatible with Storm HC rotors in 180 mm diamete

r2-bike.com

---
BTW. has this already been here? Explode-view of eOne-Sixty with part numbers, torques, etc.

 

[philipjones01]

Old post but I ended up buying Magura disks & magnets.

MAGURA Rotor MDR-P 203 mm | 6-hole, 44,87 €

MAGURA brake disc MDR-P 203 mm | 6-hole The light support provided by e-bikes puts a smile on your face every day, but at the same time increases the weight

r2-bike.com

MAGURA Sensor magnet for Brake Disc, 14,62 €

MAGURA sensor magnet for brake disc Original Magura sensor magnet for use on your brake disc The magnet is compatible with Storm HC rotors in 180 mm diamete

r2-bike.com

---
BTW. has this already been here? Explode-view of eOne-Sixty with part numbers, torques, etc.

View attachment 62488

Awesome, thanks for that, best solution I've seen

 

[urastus]

Has anyone mounted a 223 rotor on the rear? If so could you provide details of your setup please.

 

[gillyske]

Has anyone mounted a 223 rotor on the rear? If so could you provide details of your setup please.

That big of a rotor on the rear? Are you experiencing rear brake fade?

 

[urastus]

That big of a rotor on the rear? Are you experiencing rear brake fade?

long, loose over hard, steep fast descents - I tend to use the rear more. They're cheap brakes - resin pads etc; it's mainly to deal with heat. I thought if I'm going to change rotor so that I can run metallic pads, I might as well try to go bigger for cooling. Also, apparently the caliper is only good for resin too; I suppose it's a heat transfer issue? MT-500 caliper.

 

[urastus]

long, loose over hard, steep fast descents - I tend to use the rear more. They're cheap brakes - resin pads etc; it's mainly to deal with heat. I thought if I'm going to change rotor so that I can run metallic pads, I might as well try to go bigger for cooling. Also, apparently the caliper is only good for resin too; I suppose it's a heat transfer issue? MT-500 caliper.

Actually, reading up on it, looks as though I should try upgrading the caliper to 4 pot first and metallic pads.

 

[gillyske]

Actually, reading up on it, looks as though I should try upgrading the caliper to 4 pot first and metallic pads.

4pot shimano slx and above are a good option. Shimano have finned pads that should help with heat.

Adding a larger rotor than 203mm is not worth the extra weight imo. Also you'll have to run some form of mount and the frame might not be rated for it.

When you change the rear rotor remember that you need to get another magnet for the sensor, see the posts above.

 

[urastus]

4pot shimano slx and above are a good option. Shimano have finned pads that should help with heat.

Adding a larger rotor than 203mm is not worth the extra weight imo. Also you'll have to run some form of mount and the frame might not be rated for it.

When you change the rear rotor remember that you need to get another magnet for the sensor, see the posts above.

It was originally 180mm, I'm now on 203mm. I can get an MT-520 caliper or under $100 au - it's what I have on the front. I'll keep looking. Also found a Deore BR-M6120 4 pot for $75. Don't know which one is better. Or the SLX BR-M7120 for $104? I think it's MT-520 vs SLX BR-M7120. I'll have to look at my levers, they're shimano and work with the 500 and 520; does that mean they should work with the 7120? Same hose connector (not banjo). The 7120 is a newer model than the 520.

 

[gillyske]

It was originally 180mm, I'm now on 203mm. I can get an MT-520 caliper or under $100 au - it's what I have on the front. I'll keep looking. Also found a Deore BR-M6120 4 pot for $75. Don't know which one is better. Or the SLX BR-M7120 for $104? I think it's MT-520 vs SLX BR-M7120. I'll have to look at my levers, they're shimano and work with the 500 and 520; does that mean they should work with the 7120? Same hose connector (not banjo). The 7120 is a newer model than the 520.

6120 and 520 are the same calliper.
The 7120 is newer and allows the use of finned pads. Can't confirm compatibility with levers though.

 

[urastus]

6120 and 520 are the same calliper.
The 7120 is newer and allows the use of finned pads. Can't confirm compatibility with levers though.

Thanks for that. I've been doing some reading on forums - it seems to be down to oil volume used to push open those pots. Some pots are larger diameter and supposedly need a different lever. So the 6120 for $75 should be compatible . There is a remark on shimano site for 6120 that states only with resin pads, although further down they list the metal pad and resin pad! They do indeed look the same caliper as you have said though.

 

[gillyske]

Thanks for that. I've been doing some reading on forums - it seems to be down to oil volume used to push open those pots. Some pots are larger diameter and supposedly need a different lever. So the 6120 for $75 should be compatible

I have a feeling its the 2pot brake having a smaller surface resin pad thats being overwhelmed. I reckon even a switch to metal pads and using a flame + brake pad cleaner on rotors would fix the issue. But 4pots are an irresitable upgrade.

 

[urastus]

I have a feeling its the 2pot brake having a smaller surface resin pad thats being overwhelmed. I reckon even a switch to metal pads and using a flame + brake pad cleaner on rotors would fix the issue. But 4pots are an irresitable upgrade.

From what I've been reading, yes. More power, better modulation. I also imagine less time on the grabs = more time to cool down between grabs. Bigger pads won't heat up as quickly. I've actually had a couple of shimano resin pads lose the braking media; just left with the metal backing plate. One I lost the whole pad, the other I lost about a third of the pad. Where I ride mostly it's either steep up or steep down, so brake usage is minimal or full on. Any way, it seems I should try this before going to a larger rotor.

 

[RoJo]

New eMTBs are like hens teeth, so I decided to show my original eOneSixty-800 some love. 2deg works angleset and new 180mm 27.5" Lyrik.
The original bike comes with a 29" Yari which isn't required for clearance on a 27.5 2.8" (the first gen Kenevo uses a standard 27.5" Lyrik with 27.5+). Changing to 27.5" fork reduces the axle to crown, and the result is a significantly stiffer fork without the extra weight of upgrading to a Zeb/38.
I had the bar fully slammed before (with 29" 180mm Yari), now running 20mm spacer under the stem.
Longer, lower, slacker. Head angle is now 64.5°, wheelbase 1221, reach 444, 15mm BB drop (size M) so slightly more aggressive than the latest model and similar geometry to the 2022 S2 Levo, except with longer front centre.
The results are amazing:

Climbing performance is better (longer front end).
Stability is better.
Much more confidence to weight the front.
Ride quality is better.
Feel like I'm more in the bike, rather than on it.

Overall I'm really pleased with these changes.

For the 120mm headtube length of the size medium (I think it's 140mm for large) I got the following works angleset:
2.0 Degree EC44-ZS55 Angle Headset - To Suit Tapered Steerer Tube - Headtube Length:SET 4 120-129mm

 

[gillyske]

just in case anyone was wondering.

2020/2021 Carbon e-one sixty is not compatiable with ANY kind of angle set. It uses a 52 ID bearing on each end of the headset. the Fork is kept in place by the knock block. How very annoying to have yet another standard.

 

[Rublackk]

just in case anyone was wondering.

2020/2021 Carbon e-one sixty is not compatiable with ANY kind of angle set. It uses a 52 ID bearing on each end of the headset. the Fork is kept in place by the knock block. How very annoying to have yet another standard.

My aluminium 300s also has the same. It looks like the frame is designed with integrated but for the bearing to sit into. I also never had the knock block on my new bike and I'm trying to source one but haven't had much luck so far.

 

[Radek Obiadek]

Hi All. I've got a new Merida eOne Sixty 8000 (2021), the orange one. I encountered cables problem from the beginning on. The bike was just switching itself off. I had it in Merida service (here in Poland) repaired, they said it was about cable cut (in the headset area) - they repaired it and did a test, cycling for 5-10 minutes - apparently all clear. After 100 metres of my ride, it broke down again. I headed for Shimano Service Center, where they confirmed it must be about cables. They could see the first repair, but there was another cable cut in very close proximity! So they repaired the cable again, and proposed to get rid of the (I'm not sure if I call it correctly) - headset angle protection - as this part, according to them, was causing the problems. Everything works great now, no power issues, but a little bit concerned about possible fork strike on the frame, when falling off the bike. I did a test, it looks like the fork crown can hit either the frame protector, or the battery mount. I installed on that frame area some extra stickers and "carbon frame protectors", pretty thick - doesn't look great, but should provide some support. What do you think, can I continue like that? I'd be happy with any piece of advice from your side. Cheers!

 

[Isaacgrx]

Hey guys, I am picking up my 2021 E-ONe Sixty 8000 in a couple weeks, but I forgot to check what size cranks they come with and it is not listed on the Merida AU website, does anyone know? I know the 2020 had 165's, but just want to make sure that is still the case.

 

[gillyske]

Hey guys, I am picking up my 2021 E-ONe Sixty 8000 in a couple weeks, but I forgot to check what size cranks they come with and it is not listed on the Merida AU website, does anyone know? I know the 2020 had 165's, but just want to make sure that is still the case.

It is.

 

[Brent8275]

Hi All. I've got a new Merida eOne Sixty 8000 (2021), the orange one. I encountered cables problem from the beginning on. The bike was just switching itself off. I had it in Merida service (here in Poland) repaired, they said it was about cable cut (in the headset area) - they repaired it and did a test, cycling for 5-10 minutes - apparently all clear. After 100 metres of my ride, it broke down again. I headed for Shimano Service Center, where they confirmed it must be about cables. They could see the first repair, but there was another cable cut in very close proximity! So they repaired the cable again, and proposed to get rid of the (I'm not sure if I call it correctly) - headset angle protection - as this part, according to them, was causing the problems. Everything works great now, no power issues, but a little bit concerned about possible fork strike on the frame, when falling off the bike. I did a test, it looks like the fork crown can hit either the frame protector, or the battery mount. I installed on that frame area some extra stickers and "carbon frame protectors", pretty thick - doesn't look great, but should provide some support. What do you think, can I continue like that? I'd be happy with any piece of advice from your side. Cheers!

My 700 is the same setup. I've had mine apart a couple of times now for the following reasons.
1. Creaking - requires greasing regularly
2. I upgraded the headlight, so had to run the new cable through to the motor.
3. The top headset plate /dust seal kept twisting around and pulling the cables tight. Now there are lugs and recesses to keep the spacers straight but not the round plate the wires run through. I drilled a small hole about 4mm deep into the plate at the back, added a short pin about 7mm long, and the top of it fits into the spacer recess. Problem solved!
4. One of the cables managed to move and get between the knock block, so when you turned hard left you could feel the cable being pinched. I think I caused this with the new light install. Thankfully I realised straight away what it was and pulled it apart again and moved the cable.

I don't think there is anything stopping the cables getting caught again in the future however, so I'm seriously thinking about rerouting the cables outside and through the standard brake shifter cable ports. I don't want to have my suspicions confirmed out on a trail someday miles from home

 

[Radek Obiadek]

My 700 is the same setup. I've had mine apart a couple of times now for the following reasons.
1. Creaking - requires greasing regularly
2. I upgraded the headlight, so had to run the new cable through to the motor.
3. The top headset plate /dust seal kept twisting around and pulling the cables tight. Now there are lugs and recesses to keep the spacers straight but not the round plate the wires run through. I drilled a small hole about 4mm deep into the plate at the back, added a short pin about 7mm long, and the top of it fits into the spacer recess. Problem solved!
4. One of the cables managed to move and get between the knock block, so when you turned hard left you could feel the cable being pinched. I think I caused this with the new light install. Thankfully I realised straight away what it was and pulled it apart again and moved the cable.

I don't think there is anything stopping the cables getting caught again in the future however, so I'm seriously thinking about rerouting the cables outside and through the standard brake shifter cable ports. I don't want to have my suspicions confirmed out on a trail someday miles from home

Hi there,

Thank you a lot for that. What they did with my bike, is probably the same you'd like to do, that is: "so I'm seriously thinking about rerouting the cables outside and through the standard brake shifter cable ports." So I've get a brand new cable going through the side (no more through the headset), the light and its cable have been removed - that was my wish. The headset angle protection (or whatever you call it -knock block?) is back in place, no more concerned with possible frame damage. No cable pinching should take place - I hope so So far so good!

 

[Rublackk]

Hi there,

Thank you a lot for that. What they did with my bike, is probably the same you'd like to do, that is: "so I'm seriously thinking about rerouting the cables outside and through the standard brake shifter cable ports." So I've get a brand new cable going through the side (no more through the headset), the light and its cable have been removed - that was my wish. The headset angle protection (or whatever you call it -knock block?) is back in place, no more concerned with possible frame damage. No cable pinching should take place - I hope so So far so good!

I done this with my 300s , the top headset cap kept moving like they seem to do on every bike. So I took the little metal block that the brake cable went through and drilled another hole beside it and put the cable through and now no worries of cable getting snapped

 

[nmcguire]

Does anyone know where i could get buy the cap the covers the charging port on the frame of a 2020 eONE-Sixty 8000? i bought my bike second hand and it just currently has blu-tac to stop water from getting in there.

 

[urastus]

Does anyone know where i could get buy the cap the covers the charging port on the frame of a 2020 eONE-Sixty 8000? i bought my bike second hand and it just currently has blu-tac to stop water from getting in there.

Give these guys a call; they stock Merida ebikes and have a pretty good reputation with local riders.

 

[Isaacgrx]

Has anyone changed their stem on their 2021 eone sixty 8000? does it still retain the knock block and rectangle-shaped stem spacers?