Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

[sdcoffeeroaster]

My suggestion was an analogy based on how to inexpensively "repair" an insignificant issue like how to fix an annoying noise in a car . We don't have that many rattle snakes or other bikers attacking us while we are riding on trails around here. Noisy brakes are rarely a concern as they scare away the bears and cougars. Some riders use cute little bear bells or yell out a lot but who needs that when you can have built in bear alarm with SRAM brakes! Then again, if I am using Code RSC brake levers, Code RS calipers, a Magura 220mm front rotor, a Shimano Ice Tech 203mm rear rotor and stock Code metalic pads, I must sound like a clueless owner who can't pick a brand and be a dick about it. My wife swears by her Shimano Saint brakes but often complains about the engagement point as the reach adjustment only goes so far, especially with new pads. I am not sure if you have ever ridden in the rain but I can't recall any brake rotor that does not squeal when they get wet.
Once again, if we are not spending money and time on our bikes, we should be out riding them!

Love the use of SRAM brakes as a bear alarm, lol. I don't play music while riding because I want to be aware of what's going on around me but thankfully no bears here just other riders/lots of hikers/occasional rattle snakes. While I agree with you to a point, neglecting an issue like brake noise is like neglecting some pain in your body. You have to determine if it a sign of a malfunction and is it progressive or just a typical noise for the device/body part in question. In my case the noise appears to be a sign of misalignment of some sort which will wear out the brakes faster/unevenly and reduce braking (glazing the pads, etc.) and might also get louder, which is already happening. And something like this can ruin a set of pads and rotors quickly and fail under the most unsafe conditions, ie a long down hill. Sure brakes can be noisy in the wet but that's not my issue.

In my 4+ years of riding I've only had one brief malfunction out on the trail when I bought some bulk chain from China that was defective and snapped a mile from my house (stupid buy really but it was when I could not find chain long enough for my "long" Focus Jam2). So I go over the bike briefly before every ride and thoroughly every so often and have not had to take my bike into a shop for about 4 years now. While I do like the solid brake feel of the Codes compared to my Shimano brakes, I am hopeful with proper set up and bleed I can resolve this issue. In fact today is the day I tackle it since it's still pretty muddy out to go riding and very cold here in SoCal. As a last step I'm going to try the rt66 Shimano rotor on the front. I have the sram expensive bled kit and while there are more steps to a complete bleed/flush than Shimano, it's straightforward and I'm dying to try out this $100. kit with the fancy syringes, lol.

 

[KnollyBro]

Love the use of SRAM brakes as a bear alarm, lol. I don't play music while riding because I want to be aware of what's going on around me but thankfully no bears here just other riders/lots of hikers/occasional rattle snakes. While I agree with you to a point, neglecting an issue like brake noise is like neglecting some pain in your body. You have to determine if it a sign of a malfunction and is it progressive or just a typical noise for the device/body part in question. In my case the noise appears to be a sign of misalignment of some sort which will wear out the brakes faster/unevenly and reduce braking (glazing the pads, etc.) and might also get louder, which is already happening. And something like this can ruin a set of pads and rotors quickly and fail under the most unsafe conditions, ie a long down hill. Sure brakes can be noisy in the wet but that's not my issue.

In my 4+ years of riding I've only had one brief malfunction out on the trail when I bought some bulk chain from China that was defective and snapped a mile from my house (stupid buy really but it was when I could not find chain long enough for my "long" Focus Jam2). So I go over the bike briefly before every ride and thoroughly every so often and have not had to take my bike into a shop for about 4 years now. While I do like the solid brake feel of the Codes compared to my Shimano brakes, I am hopeful with proper set up and bleed I can resolve this issue. In fact today is the day I tackle it since it's still pretty muddy out to go riding and very cold here in SoCal. As a last step I'm going to try the rt66 Shimano rotor on the front. I have the sram expensive bled kit and while there are more steps to a complete bleed/flush than Shimano, it's straightforward and I'm dying to try out this $100. kit with the fancy syringes, lol.

Its been my experience, when inspecting brake pads it easy to see if they are not wearing evenly by measuring them with a Vernier caliper. If they are less than 3mm thick, they need to be replaced. If they are not wearing evenly, the pistons need to be freed up. While riding at Whistler for well over 10+ years and have done hundreds of top to bottom laps (1300 m descents) using Codes and wouldn't dare trying that with anything less than metallic pads. Its pretty routine to have to deglaze a rotor or set of pads, especially when its 40 degrees, dry and dusty like it can get here in the middle of the summer. Minimum 2 sets of metallic pads per year and a set of rotors every 2 years. Brakes can get noisy and still be ok!
#Codes4Life

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Its been my experience, when inspecting brake pads it easy to see if they are not wearing evenly by measuring them with a Vernier caliper. If they are less than 3mm thick, they need to be replaced. If they are not wearing evenly, the pistons need to be freed up. While riding at Whistler for well over 10+ years and have done hundreds of top to bottom laps (1300 m descents) using Codes and wouldn't dare trying that with anything less than metallic pads. Its pretty routine to have to deglaze a rotor or set of pads, especially when its 40 degrees, dry and dusty like it can get here in the middle of the summer. Minimum 2 sets of metallic pads per year and a set of rotors every 2 years. Brakes can get noisy and still be ok!
#Codes4Life

Too late here right now but I'll post some pics of the pads before and after dressing them, resin pads. I had metallic but put new Resin ones on in an effort to quiet things down. Right one has some glazing at the outside diameter of the rotor. Only about 6 short rides of about 10 miles each or so on these new pads. I cleaned them first and then did some light deglazing with about 180 paper on a flat plate. I did about 12 runs up and down the street attempting to bed them but they are still making this horrible gritty sound so maybe I need more bedding time? NEVER had any noise like this with my Shimano brakes even before bedding and the back ones didn't do this either. I

I think I did have one stuck piston and managed to get it to come out and think it’s free now. I did not get around to bleeding but will also try that tomorrow. After bleeding I'll try another 10-20 of my short runs up and down the street to try to bed them, no hard braking and no braking to a stop while pulling the lever. I also put a micrometer on the rotor and was able to mostly avoid the holes while spinning and it is very flat and looks clean. I was able to perfectly center rotor in the pads too with equal amounts of daylight on both sides. I don't think bleeding is going to help with the noise but maybe additional bedding and riding to see where I end up and I will do a complete bleed in the morning now.

 

[KnollyBro]

Too late here right now but I'll post some pics of the pads before and after dressing them, resin pads. I had metallic but put new Resin ones on in an effort to quiet things down. Right one has some glazing at the outside diameter of the rotor. Only about 6 short rides of about 10 miles each or so on these new pads. I cleaned them first and then did some light deglazing with about 180 paper on a flat plate. I did about 12 runs up and down the street attempting to bed them but they are still making this horrible gritty sound so maybe I need more bedding time? NEVER had any noise like this with my Shimano brakes even before bedding and the back ones didn't do this either. I

I think I did have one stuck piston and managed to get it to come out and think it’s free now. I did not get around to bleeding but will also try that tomorrow. After bleeding I'll try another 10-20 of my short runs up and down the street to try to bed them, no hard braking and no braking to a stop while pulling the lever. I also put a micrometer on the rotor and was able to mostly avoid the holes while spinning and it is very flat and looks clean. I was able to perfectly center rotor in the pads too with equal amounts of daylight on both sides. I don't think bleeding is going to help with the noise but maybe additional bedding and riding to see where I end up and I will do a complete bleed in the morning now.

I hope you get more ride time with your resin pads than I ever did! If my metallic pads are glazed, I lap them using 400 grit sand paper and blow them off with compressed air. After spinning my rear wheel on the bike for what seemed an eternity, I 3D printed a rotor holder to deglaze my Shimano rotors on a lathe. If you look closely, you can see all the grooves from using metallic pads. Something has to give and the rotors are only going to shave off only so much of the brake pad, especially if they are metal. Hmmm, maybe the shaving of the pads is causing the noise as it is way louder when they are wet.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

I hope you get more ride time with your resin pads than I ever did! If my metallic pads are glazed, I lap them using 400 grit sand paper and blow them off with compressed air. After spinning my rear wheel on the bike for what seemed an eternity, I 3D printed a rotor holder to deglaze my Shimano rotors on a lathe. If you look closely, you can see all the grooves from using metallic pads. Something has to give and the rotors are only going to shave off only so much of the brake pad, especially if they are metal. Hmmm, maybe the shaving of the pads is causing the noise as it is way louder when they are wet.
View attachment 82892

Nice set up. Yeah metallic can be louder and probably wear out the rotors faster. In wet there is no getting around the noise. I bedded my front brake again and while it still noisy it's mostly the intermittent scraping noise I get on light actuation that I don't like. Maybe still a stuck piston? They do not align easily either. But I'm going to continue to use them to see if harder braking levels things and also how long they wear. Is there a good alternative to SRAM that less expensive and organic that is available?

Oh I found a 3d printed part that holds 3 pistons in place while allowing you to free up the 4th with a limit so it doesn't come out all the way. The shipping to me in the US from GB is more than the cost and I have access to a 3d printer if I can get the file but I may order from GB anyway to "reward" the designer.

My friend gave me (free) a completely new set of code RSC Code brakes. So I'll upgrade to these once I get some time. I did my bleed and while there was not much initial air, when I got to part where you apply a vacuum the air (dissolved in the fluid???) came out over and over. And when you apply the vacuum you also have to hold the syringe open while the bubbles slowly come out. My shoulders now hurt from 50 or more of this holding. Today I though, why not slot a pvc pipe that can be slipping onto the syringe to hold the vacuum rather than using muscle power? I think I'm now a bleed expert, lol. It took all the finger force I could muster to clamp the tubing with those red clamps though. I had to use pliers at one point and it was nothing like how easy it looked in the video. It was cold here so the tubing and clamp were pretty stiff.

While the sram centerline rotors are supposedly designed to be quiet, I was surprise how easy it is during cleaning with brake cleaner and a blue towel to turn them into a tuning fork. They literally sing and resonate without much effort. I put my fingers at the 5 of the 6 bolts and was able to dampen this sound...maybe a few small snap on 3d parts here would quiet them a bit? The Shimano rotors don't have this characteristic.

 

[KnollyBro]

Nice set up. Yeah metallic can be louder and probably wear out the rotors faster. In wet there is no getting around the noise. I bedded my front brake again and while it still noisy it's mostly the intermittent scraping noise I get on light actuation that I don't like. Maybe still a stuck piston? They do not align easily either. But I'm going to continue to use them to see if harder braking levels things and also how long they wear. Is there a good alternative to SRAM that less expensive and organic that is available?

Oh I found a 3d printed part that holds 3 pistons in place while allowing you to free up the 4th with a limit so it doesn't come out all the way. The shipping to me in the US from GB is more than the cost and I have access to a 3d printer if I can get the file but I may order from GB anyway to "reward" the designer.

My friend gave me (free) a completely new set of code RSC Code brakes. So I'll upgrade to these once I get some time. I did my bleed and while there was not much initial air, when I got to part where you apply a vacuum the air (dissolved in the fluid???) came out over and over. And when you apply the vacuum you also have to hold the syringe open while the bubbles slowly come out. My shoulders now hurt from 50 or more of this holding. Today I though, why not slot a pvc pipe that can be slipping onto the syringe to hold the vacuum rather than using muscle power? I think I'm now a bleed expert, lol. It took all the finger force I could muster to clamp the tubing with those red clamps though. I had to use pliers at one point and it was nothing like how easy it looked in the video. It was cold here so the tubing and clamp were pretty stiff.

While the sram centerline rotors are supposedly designed to be quiet, I was surprise how easy it is during cleaning with brake cleaner and a blue towel to turn them into a tuning fork. They literally sing and resonate without much effort. I put my fingers at the 5 of the 6 bolts and was able to dampen this sound...maybe a few small snap on 3d parts here would quiet them a bit? The Shimano rotors don't have this characteristic.

I was going to ask if you had tried to isolate one of the pistons and squeeze the brake lever gently to get the sticky one to behave but you answered that. In the past, I have modified a bleed block to do this by isolating only one piston at a time, its easy to get a stuck piston moving, unless its REALLY jammed, then you have to take it apart and clean it out. I have only every had to do that once. I don't ride on wet gritty trails all that often so a piston getting stuck is pretty uncommon. One one of my bikes, I have run the same Code RSCs for almost 10 years. I use pliers to snap the hose clamps onto the bleed tubes syringes. I am not hurting my fingers for nothing! I usually pull the syringes back around 5-10 times for maybe 10 seconds at a time to get rid bubbles. You will never get rid of ALL of the tiny bubbles. You are supposed to use a new bottle of brake fluid every time as Dot 5 will absorb air if the bottle is opened. Then again, I usually just do a lever brake bleed and not a full bleed if my brakes feel off. I hope you are happy with the Code RSC brakes. The pad contact adjustment dial is what made me switch to Codes from Saints in the first place. I use rubbing alcohol to clean off my rotors. I switched to Shimano IceTech rotors years ago.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

I was going to ask if you had tried to isolate one of the pistons and squeeze the brake lever gently to get the sticky one to behave but you answered that. In the past, I have modified a bleed block to do this by isolating only one piston at a time, its easy to get a stuck piston moving, unless its REALLY jammed, then you have to take it apart and clean it out. I have only every had to do that once. I don't ride on wet gritty trails all that often so a piston getting stuck is pretty uncommon. One one of my bikes, I have run the same Code RSCs for almost 10 years. I use pliers to snap the hose clamps onto the bleed tubes syringes. I am not hurting my fingers for nothing! I usually pull the syringes back around 5-10 times for maybe 10 seconds at a time to get rid bubbles. You will never get rid of ALL of the tiny bubbles. You are supposed to use a new bottle of brake fluid every time as Dot 5 will absorb air if the bottle is opened. Then again, I usually just do a lever brake bleed and not a full bleed if my brakes feel off. I hope you are happy with the Code RSC brakes. The pad contact adjustment dial is what made me switch to Codes from Saints in the first place. I use rubbing alcohol to clean off my rotors. I switched to Shimano IceTech rotors years ago.
View attachment 82924

Thanks. So do you know how to read the serial numbers. Fox has a great lookup for that but I really could not find any explanation of this even though their document says it contains that. My caliper is 35T09019953. I think 35 is the week of production but nothing else. I've been looking googlin this for the past half hr. Is there something like Fox has on the sram site or anywhere?

 

[KnollyBro]

Thanks. So do you know how to read the serial numbers. Fox has a great lookup for that but I really could not find any explanation of this even though their document says it contains that. My caliper is 35T09019953. I think 35 is the week of production but nothing else. I've been looking googlin this for the past half hr. Is there something like Fox has on the sram site or anywhere?

No idea. Are you asking about SRAM Code caliper? I would just put your Code RSC front brake on and swap the Code RSC rear lever out and use it with your existing rear caliper. Its not like any CODE 4 piston rear brake is more than enough to lock up a rear wheel. Its a 20 minute job. If you are switching from a CODE lever to a CODE lever, you don't need to do a full bleed, only a lever bleed.

 

[turtleblitz]

Code RSC brakes have good modulation and are very adjustable. Once you get the hang of the bleeding, it can be done in under 5 minutes as you usually only need to do a lever bleed. If you have good stopping power but the noise bothers you, turn up the radio as it will resolve and sound related issues .

Lever bleed did the trick.
I miss the contact adjustment I had on my last SRAM brakes. The Code RS doesn’t have that but overall Code RS vs other SRAM brakes I’ve used in the past are easily the best.
For the noise I find singing along with them helps. That and braking less

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

No idea. Are you asking about SRAM Code caliper? I would just put your Code RSC front brake on and swap the Code RSC rear lever out and use it with your existing rear caliper. Its not like any CODE 4 piston rear brake is more than enough to lock up a rear wheel. Its a 20 minute job. If you are switching from a CODE lever to a CODE lever, you don't need to do a full bleed, only a lever bleed.

Thanks. Just heard back from SRAM, they are 2020's and model Code RSC A1. I did ride yesterday and the front brake is mostly much quieter. I did find a single squeal every now (I think it's just the resonant nature of the rotors) and then and just "sang along", lol. I plan to just use these while I prep and check the rsc brakes and will install Gorilla ceramic pads, free up and lightly oil the pistons. I just bought the piston freeing tool to make that easier and plan to install the complete rsc calipers and levers eventually. They really seem to be a bit higher end and more adjustable too and the shiny finish matches the Lyrik Ulitmate finish as well, lol....extra bonus. But I feel pretty comfortable with the bleed procedure and hope to use less blue towels next time, lol. I still hate the dot 5.1 fluid but stuck with that. I do have less lever pressure in the back brake and a bit more in the front and could lightly pressurize the back or maybe remove some fluid from the front but they are close enough and very effective right now.

 

[KnollyBro]

Lever bleed did the trick.
I miss the contact adjustment I had on my last SRAM brakes. The Code RS doesn’t have that but overall Code RS vs other SRAM brakes I’ve used in the past are easily the best.
For the noise I find singing along with them helps. That and braking less

Nothing like a good attitude to improve your biking in every way! I also missed the contact adjustment so much, I replaced the levers.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Nothing like a good attitude to improve your biking in every way! I also missed the contact adjustment so much, I replaced the levers.

Yeah I really owe my friend for those rsc's. I didn't realize he had them and someone just gave them to him when switching to Shimano. Now I have to think of a way to pay him back, lol. My bike is pretty close to the highest end Sl now, cf Spec Control wheels, complete X01 shifting include cassette and now RSC brakes. It comes in at exactly 38 lbs now, magnesium Expedo pedal, Salsa CF bars and sq labs 610 seat. It's the bike I've always dreaming about, ultra light ebike with more than enough power for a 145 lb rider and so manuverable...no excuse now to learn those trials moves, lol.

 

[KnollyBro]

Yeah I really owe my friend for those rsc's. I didn't realize he had them and someone just gave them to him when switching to Shimano. Now I have to think of a way to pay him back, lol. My bike is pretty close to the highest end Sl now, cf Spec Control wheels, complete X01 shifting include cassette and now RSC brakes. It comes in at exactly 38 lbs now, magnesium Expedo pedal, Salsa CF bars and sq labs 610 seat. It's the bike I've always dreaming about, ultra light ebike with more than enough power for a 145 lb rider and so manuverable...no excuse now to learn those trials moves, lol.

I look forward to the video of your first trials sesh! But is the bike ever really finished? What about mullet setup? Cushcore for the rear at least? While there is money/credit in the bank and new things to try, why not? He who dies owing the most, ultimately wins!

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

I look forward to the video of your first trials sesh! But is the bike ever really finished? What about mullet setup? Cushcore for the rear at least? While there is money/credit in the bank and new things to try, why not? He who dies owing the most, ultimately wins!

I had a mullet on the Focus but I don't think I want that on this bike. I like the 66 deg fork angle as it is for tight switchbacks, etc. Have not had one flat in almost 4 years since running tubeless. Hmmm, but maybe CF Praxis crank arms, lol?

 

[KnollyBro]

I had a mullet on the Focus but I don't think I want that on this bike. I like the 66 deg fork angle as it is for tight switchbacks, etc. Have not had one flat in almost 4 years since running tubeless. Hmmm, but maybe CF Praxis crank arms, lol?

Did you watch this one? Check minute 2:28
The reason is priceless.

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Did you watch this one? Check minute 2:28
The reason is priceless.

He even ran over his ankle, lol. I don't do any hucking luckily which is probably why I don't come close to using all of my suspension.

Praxis cf cranks are off the bucket list now, lol. I had already decided the 100g savings was NOT necessary and happy with where I've ended up weight wise at 38 lbs.

 

[Killswitch73]

Anybody know the price of a new SL 1.1 motor costs .
My warranty runs out in May and wanting to give my self the heads up on what to expect .

 

[Pdoz]

Anybody know the price of a new SL 1.1 motor costs .
My warranty runs out in May and wanting to give my self the heads up on what to expect .

My warranty runs out in May as well, the lbs tells me mahle parts are available if there are issues with the motor . I'm praying the current issue is covered by warranty and REALY hoping the replacement motor ends up being more reliable!

 

[KnollyBro]

My warranty runs out in May as well, the lbs tells me mahle parts are available if there are issues with the motor . I'm praying the current issue is covered by warranty and REALY hoping the replacement motor ends up being more reliable!

What issues have you had with your Levo SL motor? I had a Kenevo and it had to be replaced twice. We have two Levo SLs and no issues so far.

 

[Pete N]

I’m about to be a very lightly used 2021 Levo SL.
It is due some motor, battery and TCU updates. Can these be done through the Mission Control APP on the SL?

 

[Pdoz]

What issues have you had with your Levo SL motor? I had a Kenevo and it had to be replaced twice. We have two Levo SLs and no issues so far.

just a floppy shaft ,presumably a bearing . If the bike was out of warranty I'd most likely take it apart and see if it can be repaired, but it's cheaper / easier to fall back onto the specialized warranty.

The specialized vs giant race is on - my 2018 giant motor was replaced a few weeks before warranty ran out and it took giant a week to deliver.. The clock started ticking for specialized on monday

 

[KnollyBro]

just a floppy shaft ,presumably a bearing . If the bike was out of warranty I'd most likely take it apart and see if it can be repaired, but it's cheaper / easier to fall back onto the specialized warranty.

The specialized vs giant race is on - my 2018 giant motor was replaced a few weeks before warranty ran out and it took giant a week to deliver.. The clock started ticking for specialized on monday

Are floppy shafts a common problems with age, type of impacts, mileage or just bad luck? I wonder if BBs on acoustic bike tend to fail for the same reason as on ebikes as I have rarely had to replace one on any of my bikes in the past 15 years. I ride DH and All mountain so I don't put on a lot of miles but the impacts are probably pretty significant at times.
Specialized has been very good about motor replacement. Not too quick, but no questions asked.

 

[Pdoz]

Are floppy shafts a common problems with age, type of impacts, mileage or just bad luck? I wonder if BBs on acoustic bike tend to fail for the same reason as on ebikes as I have rarely had to replace one on any of my bikes in the past 15 years. I ride DH and All mountain so I don't put on a lot of miles but the impacts are probably pretty significant at times.
Specialized has been very good about motor replacement. Not too quick, but no questions asked.

Floppy shafts age related? Speak for yourself....

I'm working on the theory that I'm cursed.

 

[cjc.emtb]

Is a new Levo SL coming soon? Specialized is blowing out their current Levo SL models…

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

Is a new Levo SL coming soon? Specialized is blowing out their current Levo SL models…

Wow, you are right:

Turbo Levo - Specialized

www.specialized.com

 

[Gyre]

FYI I just received a notice from ProBikeSupply in the USA that their in-stock LSL's are 25% off.

Specialized TURBO Levo SL Sale

Specializing in high end custom mountain, gravel, road and tri bikes along with the best selection of premium parts and service.

www.probikesupply.com

I figure Specialized is probably going to be clearing stock before they announce the Gen 2 LSL.

Edit: Looks like I'm a few minutes late to the party!

 

[sdcoffeeroaster]

FYI I just received a notice from ProBikeSupply in the USA that their in-stock LSL's are 25% off.

Specialized TURBO Levo SL Sale

Specializing in high end custom mountain, gravel, road and tri bikes along with the best selection of premium parts and service.

www.probikesupply.com

I figure Specialized is probably going to be clearing stock before they announce the Gen 2 LSL.

Edit: Looks like I'm a few minutes late to the party!

lol. Anyone know what gen 2 will be like?

 

[boBE]

If the Levo SL is truly discontinued it is a victim of marketing, not poor design. Like the automotive horsepower wars we are in a newton-meter war and selling the least powerful e-bike is not a winning strategy. It is not that 35 n*m is insufficient, it is in most cases. Take a look at the motor test numbers in the image.

Going from 35 to 65 n*m gets us less than 10% gain! Someone is measuring torque differently of just plain fudging the numbers. 80 n*m starts to show improvement but still little more than 10% faster. Finally at 90 n*m we see some real gains, almost 20%.

As for geometry, most riders that actually ride a Levo SL like it. Many who only ride spec sheets don't. Top professional racing drivers can tell if a tire is 1 psi off or if shock damping is slightly too much. The rest of us have no idea, even if we can tell something is not quite right we still don't know what it might be. Same with bike geometry, few actually can tell something is off or know what to adjust

So it looks like the Levo SL will soon be discontinued or replaced but it is not likely Specialized will try a similar formula again, where *on paper* it appears the bike is way outclassed by the competition. It's a shame, I like mine as it really fits how and where I ride.

 

[Pdoz]

If the Levo SL is truly discontinued it is a victim of marketing, not poor design. Like the automotive horsepower wars we are in a newton-meter war and selling the least powerful e-bike is not a winning strategy. It is not that 35 n*m is insufficient, it is in most cases. Take a look at the motor test numbers in the image.

Going from 35 to 65 n*m gets us less than 10% gain! Someone is measuring torque differently of just plain fudging the numbers. 80 n*m starts to show improvement but still little more than 10% faster. Finally at 90 n*m we see some real gains, almost 20%.

As for geometry, most riders that actually ride a Levo SL like it. Many who only ride spec sheets don't. Top professional racing drivers can tell if a tire is 1 psi off or if shock damping is slightly too much. The rest of us have no idea, even if we can tell something is not quite right we still don't know what it might be. Same with bike geometry, few actually can tell something is off or know what to adjust

So it looks like the Levo SL will soon be discontinued or replaced but it is not likely Specialized will try a similar formula again, where *on paper* it appears the bike is way outclassed by the competition. It's a shame, I like mine as it really fits how and where I ride.

Relax, it's just time for an upgrade.

I agree on the marketing, though - if they advertised it as 230 w , the magazines would be talking about 10 % power vs 25 % weight loss!

BTW, the real gap between motors is even closer than that video suggests - he's comparing a 170 mm to 130 mm bike climbing!

From another climb test ( and a non assisted bike took 3.22) -

 

[Pete N]

I’d be very surprised if it’s being discontinued but I guess sales numbers will determine it. The Kenevo SL seems to be doing ok and gets good reviews. There is a market for the 2x power motors and lighter bike, surely.