pamartia
Member
Nice, is that a Bomber CR? Trunnion 185x55?
Did you re-use the mounting hardware?
Nice, is that a Bomber CR? Trunnion 185x55?
Could you just space the chainring out a touch? There is such a thing as thin chainring bolt washers that could do that. I wouldnt think that would effect your chainline too adversely. Cheap and ez to try it. Those chainguides should fit any shimano motor setup. I'd keep the one up. I find the e thirteen easily bends and spacers are weak and a pitaIs anyone successfully running a chainguide on a pre-2022 Sight VLT?
I’ve been dropping chains, so I purchased an e*thirteen and then a One-up chainguide, both for Shimano Steps, neither seem to fit- too far outboard so the backer plate collides with the chainring.
Could you just space the chainring out a touch? There is such a thing as thin chainring bolt washers that could do that. I wouldnt think that would effect your chainline too adversely. Cheap and ez to try it. Those chainguides should fit any shimano motor setup. I'd keep the one up. I find the e thirteen easily bends and spacers are weak and a pita
Oh ok, im not sure. Hooefully its possible. I have an e8000 and tge spider is 4 bolt . I havent looked at the ep8 direct mount set up to know definitively. Im not sure if there is any afjustments with direct mount. Sometimes ive seen different top guide mounts or spacers for the top guide. Maybe they ship the guides with the spacers installed on the top guide? Or the top guide could be altered? 1mm here and 1 mm there kind of thing. My e thirteen had spacers for the actual guide/motor mount. You wouldnt think itd be a different guide for e8000 and ep8. I wouldve thought guides would be made to fit both. Maybe one up or e thirteen could answerHmm, that’s an interesting idea. I think I’d have to space the chainring or spider out (currently a 1-piece e*13 ring) since the chainguide backer plates are hitting the back of the spider/chaining. Still may be worth a shot. I think I’d need 3mm.
nice!Where's the Norco Range VLT thread?
Anyhow, I mulleted mine. Loving the Manitou Mezzer Pro, and 220mm rotors...
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whats the travel and offset of this 29er fork?Where's the Norco Range VLT thread?
Anyhow, I mulleted mine. Loving the Manitou Mezzer Pro, and 220mm rotors...
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Oh yeah that's intense.... yeah to hear news you have been granted warranty would give me a sigh of relief to ay.... my sights pretty much just the frame - motor all parts upgraded.....it's seems hanging onto it as long as possible not a lot of stock available....So my bikes hit roughly 11000ks and today boom. Hoping it's covered by frame warranty
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What size are those rotors?
Maybe you should mention wich ones? The numbers on sidewallsHas anyone fitted 2.8s to the 2019. I'm wondering if they will fit. I will be using 35mm rims.
Thank you iXi..... l have noticed this clip floating about on YouTube, probably a good idea to watch gain a little extra knowledge.... Yeah right if cables are sourced then battery removal, ok no worries.....There is a video on YouTube by epic ebikes and they swap the E8000 out for the ep8. I should mention it's on a meroda e160. The cables aren't interchangeable so you have to run new cables etc. How they got one off Shimano I do not know.
Hey 1oldfart.... Thanks for standing in supporting your goodwill mate!.... Yeah been riding mtb for 20 yrs.... in all honesty what spins me out in a few many ways.... be it blessed granted with the opportunity of ebike motors - parts gear..... To then holding out on parts delays.... leading up to wether purchasing a second hand non E pushy.... an idea thats ok yeah.... but ok is about the extent.Please let us know if Shimano or the bike manufacturer make it right for you.
I hope you are back riding ASAP.
Thanks, yeah probably keep to the e8000.... gotta be at least one dust covered e8000 species hanging on a shelf somewhereI had a look in the comments and someone asked about the VLT 2020 and the creator replied there was issues with fitment.
Yeah norco came to the party no issues. Even replaced the speed sensor which got chewed when the chain stay broke. Couple of things but, the chian stay is stamped with 29, no idea if that means it was meant for a 29er but works just fine and also its a silver colour not the same as the original paint but doesn't matter as my bikes pretty smashed up with tons of scratches and chunks of paint missing. I also chewed a chunk out of the frame behind the front chain ring when it derailed and got wedged in there. Since I've moved to a 10 speed Shimano chain ring I've only had the chain skip once whereas it was all the time with the original sram 12 speed ring. Seems an oversight they never provisioned a chain guard or one to retro fit.
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It's a Norco issue. I had my whole wiring harness replaced once. It seems to happen if you get any water in the charging port.Is the bad design fom Norco or Shimano?
Just curious did this fix it? I have experienced this before and although haven't used the dialectric grease have had the problems rear their head again. I'm waiting on a new wiring harness now. Will try the grease and contact cleaner see how I go!Random update on my 2019 Sight VLT:
We got a good bit of dry snow and I had several really fun rides in 4-6” deep powder! Then hung the bike up for a bit and the following rides were an error code horror show. My bike has been preciously prone to error codes during the wet seasons.
I brought this up with a local shop friend who also has a Norco VLT. He said it’s to be expected, and talked me through the basics of pulling the motor and wiring harness. Says he does it 1-2x a year, sometimes applies tape to the seams between the frame and motor to keep moisture out. Basically, flip the biker over, remove the cranks & chainring (special shimano lock ring tool required), remove the bash guard & motor bolts, then remove the motor and wirting harness (which uses various click-fit and bayonet wiring connections). There’s only 3-4 connections, including the battery which is worth doing. Once disassembled, spray all electrical connections with contact cleaner. Dab some dialectric grease around the Base of the fittings before re-assembling.
Altogether it took maybe :40 and wasn’t really any more difficult than replacing the cranks/BB on a normal bike. Hope this saves somebody some headaches!
Just curious did this fix it?
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