My Specialized Levo eats chains

[Joop E-Bike]

My Specialized Levo 9/2019 eats chains. My first chain, the original, was 75% after 750 km. I have replaced this for a Shimano 901 XTR chain this was 75% after 1250 km. I have now mounted my third chain, but now the front sprocket is apparently worn, because the chain does not release well under tension. I lubricate my chain every ride and degrease every third ride. I use special PTFE oil from Shimano dry weather. I always ride in dry conditions and have climbed about 60.000 altitude meters during 2000 km. Are there other people with the same issue? Before this I had 2 x a Cube bikes with Bosch engine and here the wear was a little bit about better 500 km !!!!!
Are there more riders with this problem?
Why can they not make better chains and sprockets?

 

[ImSundee]

lots of factors,

how are you shifting? Under power shifting will cause chain wear.
10/11/12 speed? As you get more gears the chains do get thinner.
Try some better/different lube.

Its an ebike, it will go through chains alot more, and you are using a higher power bike than the cube so that will make it even more.

 

[Martinintirol]

My Specialized Levo 9/2019 eats chains. My first chain, the original, was 75% after 750 km. I have replaced this for a Shimano 901 XTR chain this was 75% after 1250 km. I have now mounted my third chain, but now the front sprocket is apparently worn, because the chain does not release well under tension. I lubricate my chain every ride and degrease every third ride. I use special PTFE oil from Shimano dry weather. I always ride in dry conditions and have climbed about 60.000 altitude meters during 2000 km. Are there other people with the same issue? Before this I had 2 x a Cube bikes with Bosch engine and here the wear was a little bit about better 500 km !!!!!
Are there more riders with this problem?
Why can they not make better chains and sprockets?

TBH you can expect a huge amount of wear from the Emtb assistance. Not a surprise really. On a standard bike if you live in extreme mountain conditions they will not last any longer.... Even with my modest watt output... Are you living in South America?? You are climbing 30hm with every forward driven metre.....

 

[Joop E-Bike]

I live in Spain in the summer is in Austria let’s year I did 4500 km and one on the 120,000 altitude metres I’m 64.
I love my bike Levo but not the chain wear.
wikiloc.com
Joop E-bike

 

[Martinintirol]

I live in Spain in the summer is in Austria let’s year I did 4500 km and one on the 120,000 altitude metres I’m 64.
I love my bike Levo but not the chain wear.
wikiloc.com
Joop E-bike

I think it is something you must learn to live with. To be honest, maybe you clean too much....

 

[118]

 

[Intermtb]

" I lubricate my chain every ride and degrease every third ride."

Degrease may not be a good idea. just clean and lube.
Also riding style, if you spin more as oppose to grind, spinning is easier on the chain tension - less chain wear.
and get SLX or XT chain, supposedly heavier than XTR (less material), so XT/SLX chain should last longer too.

 

[steve_sordy]

@Joop E-Bike On 9 and 10-speed analogue bikes I got typically 550m. I went to a 12-speed analogue bike and at three times the distance I had half the wear, so it was looking like it was going to last 6x as long. I sold the bike (to buy an emtb) before I could see that experiment to its conclusion.

I'm now on an 11-speed emtb and had 0.4% at 1000 miles. I'm now over 1200 miles still with no problems whatsoever.

Both analogue and emtb ridden and maintained in the same way on mostly sandy terrain, ie grinding paste in the wet.

There appears to be something about 11 and 12-speed chain and gear tooth design that assists longevity. I know the 12-speed chains are radically different and also the tooth design, so I had concluded that the longevity was due to that. But I am unaware if that is true for 11-speed. It could be, because I am getting similar results, if slightly less than 12-speed.

Based upon my experience of chain life, if the chain on my emtb was a 10-speed than I would assume that I would get shorter life than I was getting on my analogue bikes. But with the use of 11 or 12-speed chains, I would now expect longer life (than 10-speed) even on an emtb.

 

[Peterg]

After 210 miles I had to replace my chain and cassette due to wear!

 

[118]

After 210 miles I had to replace my chain and cassette due to wear!

By choice, or through the shops recommendation?

 

[Peterg]

By choice, or through the shops recommendation?

Chain snapped. Fitted a new replacement, but it jumped on the smallest two sprockets of the cassette. On close inspection, these two sprockets where hooked/worn.
Fitted new cassette and all is fine...
I do spend most of my time in boost, so not complaining really..

 

[outerlimits]

My Levo eats chains, brake pads, and tyres. It’s one of the reasons I called it “The Goat”
You now have more torque than your old bike so this also has a bearing on chain wear.
I only ever use a solid pin chain, and have been using SRAM’s PC 1130 lately as it is cheap. I get longer out of their X1 chain, but cost per km is better with the PC 1130.
I use cheap eBay Snail or Deckers chainrings which are ok and last the km, and come in various colours. Not happy with the strength of the SRAM cassette, so will try a Shimano next time.

 

[Eduardoramundo]

My chain was at 1% after 525km. Washed and lubed every ride (very muddy conditions).

 

[High Rock Ruti]

High Rock Ruti
More power more wear. I get about 750 miles from a chain and cassette. Recently read a review of chain wear SRAM came out on top by some margin, they run them on and machine for days at a time and measure stretch. I'd rather wear out my bike than my body, just sayin!

 

[Ananda]

I ride a 750w bafang converted mtb with no speed restriction that puts out about 120nm of torque on a 1x8sp drivetrain. A few thousands of miles later the drivetrain is like new. It does not see any mud though since I hate the stuff. I have a few theories about the unsuitability of 10+ speed drivetrains on ebikes that probably are not true, but still.....would never indulge myself in any such combination of novelty and torque.

 

[daju]

Chain snapped. Fitted a new replacement, but it jumped on the smallest two sprockets of the cassette. On close inspection, these two sprockets where hooked/worn.
Fitted new cassette and all is fine...
I do spend most of my time in boost, so not complaining really..

I love boost too

 

[Eddy Current]

Im not a e-stuff beliver but maybe ebike chains last longer

 

[Levo Laland]

If you are all replacing cassettes because of wear to the bottom few cogs of the cassette then you need to increase the size of the front ring, then you’ll use more of the cassette more often. 36T is the sweet spot for the front ring.

 

[Changleen]

Especially since I got an emtb, I clean my drivetrain fairly thoroughly after nearly every ride. The big thing is to make sure the actual inside radius of each tooth, the part that is actually pushing on the chain, is clean, as well as the more aesthetically pleasing faces of the cassette rings. I find the best tool for this, short of taking off the cassette and scrubbing it (which I do every 3rd ride or so) is an old (preferably ‘firm’) toothbrush (of course) with some light degreaser on.

Despite what a shop might tell you, I find you can actually use a quicklink 15-20 times, or until it stops making a nice ‘click’ when re-engaging. I use a pair of dedicated quicklink pliers which I am fairly sure increases the life of this.

After every ride, I remove the chain and rear wheel, scrub the cassette with a toothbrush, carefully clean each individual tooth on the front ring and the derailleur jockey wheels. I hang the chain from a cut-off nail high on vertical beam in my workshop and (at least) wipe it down several times with a lightly degreased rag before relubing. I visually inspect every link and ensure I get any clumps of crap out.

Every third or so ride, or if it gets particularly dirty on a given ride, I properly degrease (overnight soak), scrub (in clean degreaser) thoroughly rinse and dry (with a towel and then compressor) and finally re-set up lube (lube to shit, let ‘set’ for a few hours then wipe off excess).

Yes, this takes a while, but I actually find it quite therapeutic, and it really enhances the chain and component life. At €250 for a cassette, and €70 a chain, combined with therapeutic value, I think it is worth it.

 

[Changleen]

I also totally agree with the comments about making sure your front ring is the right size so that you’re using the range of your cassette effectively. For me this seems to be about about 36.

 

[Ananda]

Check out the microshift advent 1x 9sp system. All the range you need (for most) without the ridiculous expense. Has a clutch too.

 

[Labrador29]

My 19 has done 5500kms, I'm on my 3rd cassette, 5th chain and second chain ring

I've ridden my 2019 Giant MTB e +1 pro for 18 months/5000 km. Have just replaced my Sram cassette/chain and disc brake pads which I could have run longer. And I thought I was hard done by!!!!!!!
My rides consist of anything from grade 1 to grade 3, with a bit of flat river track riding to get to the MTB tracks.
I think it would be fair to say if you want to ride e-mtb tacks, expect high maintenance.

 

[Joop E-Bike]

I think it’s a shame on the industry that they don’t provide us with with the product that works on those expensive bikes?

 

[Labrador29]

Especially since I got an emtb, I clean my drivetrain fairly thoroughly after nearly every ride. The big thing is to make sure the actual inside radius of each tooth, the part that is actually pushing on the chain, is clean, as well as the more aesthetically pleasing faces of the cassette rings. I find the best tool for this, short of taking off the cassette and scrubbing it (which I do every 3rd ride or so) is an old (preferably ‘firm’) toothbrush (of course) with some light degreaser on.

Despite what a shop might tell you, I find you can actually use a quicklink 15-20 times, or until it stops making a nice ‘click’ when re-engaging. I use a pair of dedicated quicklink pliers which I am fairly sure increases the life of this.

After every ride, I remove the chain and rear wheel, scrub the cassette with a toothbrush, carefully clean each individual tooth on the front ring and the derailleur jockey wheels. I hang the chain from a cut-off nail high on vertical beam in my workshop and (at least) wipe it down several times with a lightly degreased rag before relubing. I visually inspect every link and ensure I get any clumps of crap out.

Every third or so ride, or if it gets particularly dirty on a given ride, I properly degrease (overnight soak), scrub (in clean degreaser) thoroughly rinse and dry (with a towel and then compressor) and finally re-set up lube (lube to shit, let ‘set’ for a few hours then wipe off excess).

Yes, this takes a while, but I actually find it quite therapeutic, and it really enhances the chain and component life. At €250 for a cassette, and €70 a chain, combined with therapeutic value, I think it is worth it.

Can't believe the prices. You are getting ripped off. NZD $292.88 for a new Sram original cassette and chain two months ago. Come and live in NZ.

 

[Konanige]

My Specialized Levo 9/2019 eats chains. My first chain, the original, was 75% after 750 km. I have replaced this for a Shimano 901 XTR chain this was 75% after 1250 km. I have now mounted my third chain, but now the front sprocket is apparently worn, because the chain does not release well under tension. I lubricate my chain every ride and degrease every third ride. I use special PTFE oil from Shimano dry weather. I always ride in dry conditions and have climbed about 60.000 altitude meters during 2000 km. Are there other people with the same issue? Before this I had 2 x a Cube bikes with Bosch engine and here the wear was a little bit about better 500 km !!!!!
Are there more riders with this problem?
Why can they not make better chains and sprockets?

Degrease every third ride! That's where your going wrong, you're removing all the lube from inside the rollers and you'll never get it back in no matter how good your lube. Hose it off to get off any grit then run through a dry rag until clean, then apply a dry or semi dry lube like White Lightning Epic. My acoustic bike used to eat chains when I was degreasing regularly many moons ago, now my chain on my Levo Sl is at 1300 miles with next to zero wear. Also with using a semi dry lube you dont have to clean your cassette, jockey wheels or chainring as they just don't get dirty!! BONUS more time for riding. I think where people go wrong is in thinking that the dirt can get inside your chain, it can't, and you want the outer surfaces of your chain , cassette , and chainring to be free of lube so that dirt cannot stick to it, as this is what causes the wear on the teeth, not a lack of lube.

 

[Changleen]

Degrease every third ride! That's where your going wrong, you're removing all the lube from inside the rollers and you'll never get it back in no matter how good your lube.

This isn’t correct. It’s fine to degrease as often as you can be bothered as long as you clean and re-setup your lube. Also, actually ideally all the shipping grease is removed, and lube does get between the pin and roller, and between the plates. Read zerofrictioncycling.com for more about this.

My acoustic bike used to eat chains when I was degreasing regularly many moons ago, now my chain on my Levo Sl is at 1300 miles with next to zero wear.

Modern, 11 and 12 speed chains, especially high-end ones are much stronger and longer lasting than old chains.

 

[FlowDough]

Im not a e-stuff beliver but maybe ebike chains last longer

I still haven't heard of any specific advantage of e bike chains. Avoiding hollow pin chains seems like a good idea to me. I'm just running basic SRAM chains. This test made it look like marketing bs.

I try to completely avoid shifting on the climbs, and just adjust my motor power to stay in the same gear sometimes. Steel chain ring and the more steel in the cassette the better. I put an e13 aluminum cassette on my first e bike and was shifting alot back then and it seemed like it was made of cheese. I've also read and heard good things about Absolute black Graphenlube but I haven't tried it yet.

 

[High Rock Ruti]

My Specialized Levo 9/2019 eats chains. My first chain, the original, was 75% after 750 km. I have replaced this for a Shimano 901 XTR chain this was 75% after 1250 km. I have now mounted my third chain, but now the front sprocket is apparently worn, because the chain does not release well under tension. I lubricate my chain every ride and degrease every third ride. I use special PTFE oil from Shimano dry weather. I always ride in dry conditions and have climbed about 60.000 altitude meters during 2000 km. Are there other people with the same issue? Before this I had 2 x a Cube bikes with Bosch engine and here the wear was a little bit about better 500 km !!!!!
Are there more riders with this problem?
Why can they not make better chains and sprockets?

High Rock Ruti

Eats chains, yes that's my experience too, I've tried SRAM, Shimano and KTM, there is no appreciable difference, there are good chain reviews on the net, but my experience is around 750 miles for chains and cassettes and two derailleurs a year, mostly from sucking up sticks. I'll remind everyone again, Shimano will replace anything you send them for free, two weeks ago my buddy got a complete drive train, chain, cassette and derailleur (100% of the time), try it you'll like it.

Warm Regards

Ruti

 

[James_C]

Degrease every third ride! That's where your going wrong, you're removing all the lube from inside the rollers and you'll never get it back in no matter how good your lube. Hose it off to get off any grit then run through a dry rag until clean, then apply a dry or semi dry lube like White Lightning Epic. My acoustic bike used to eat chains when I was degreasing regularly many moons ago, now my chain on my Levo Sl is at 1300 miles with next to zero wear. Also with using a semi dry lube you dont have to clean your cassette, jockey wheels or chainring as they just don't get dirty!! BONUS more time for riding. I think where people go wrong is in thinking that the dirt can get inside your chain, it can't, and you want the outer surfaces of your chain , cassette , and chainring to be free of lube so that dirt cannot stick to it, as this is what causes the wear on the teeth, not a lack of lube.

Out of curiosity I tried this rag only method yesterday with a mild degreaser. Afterwards the chain felt clean on the outside but very gritty and rough when twisting the links. I then used the parktool cleaner on it with fairy liquid/water. The water came out totally black. Chain was then clean and felt nice twisting the links.

In summary, from what I see I need to use a proper chain cleaner.

I'm using muc off dry lube as well. I can't stand the wet lubes.

Where you ride matters too. Mine has a hard life in bike parks/trail centres where there is generally a lot of sand/dust.

 

[Supratad]

Degrease every third ride! That's where your going wrong, you're removing all the lube from inside the rollers and you'll never get it back in no matter how good your lube. Hose it off to get off any grit then run through a dry rag until clean, then apply a dry or semi dry lube like White Lightning Epic. My acoustic bike used to eat chains when I was degreasing regularly many moons ago, now my chain on my Levo Sl is at 1300 miles with next to zero wear. Also with using a semi dry lube you dont have to clean your cassette, jockey wheels or chainring as they just don't get dirty!! BONUS more time for riding. I think where people go wrong is in thinking that the dirt can get inside your chain, it can't, and you want the outer surfaces of your chain , cassette , and chainring to be free of lube so that dirt cannot stick to it, as this is what causes the wear on the teeth, not a lack of lube.

I spray mine through with GT85 which effectively cleans it out onto a rag. Is that degreasing it, even though the GT85 is itself a teflon lubricant?
I then oil with Muc-Off lubes. Can't be doing it right though as I've just replaced the chain at 600 ish miles, though it is hauling my weight a lot.