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Ep801 solution

sandy raw

New Member
Aug 19, 2024
7
7
brussel
So the orbea rise 2022 2023, the 38 teeth is OK

I managed to get through 38 teeth!
It's just about right, but it's right
(on the other hand, the chain saver has to be removed)

I used STEPS SM-CRE70-12 (53mm)
I used the spider & installed a LJUNJE 38-tooth chainring
(because the original SHIMANO chainring, the quality is really not good, it looks like a 9-speed chainring .......)
And for the chain I installed a KMC TI-N

And the gears go like butter
super fast smooth

And with the 38 teeth
At 45kmh without forcing with 85RPM, you consume less (in theory).


PXL_20240920_124152965.MP.jpg
PXL_20240920_124142632.MP.jpg
 

Astro66

Active member
May 24, 2024
304
550
Sydney Australia
I used STEPS SM-CRE70-12 (53mm)
That has a 53mm chain line, where I'd say your 10 speed original has a 50mm, looking at the most common spiders for a 10 speed. If you post the part number we can check it.

This means your chain line at the front is 3mm further out, which should be fine. But it does mean you'll have more cross chaining when in the lower gears. And more chance of you're chain coming off when you're in the lower gears.

My test of too much cross chaining, when you move the front chain line out, is to put the bike in first gear, and roll the bike backwards. If the chain drops onto the second gear, then IMO there is too much cross chaining, and the chain may come off the front chain ring when on bumpy terrain in 1st gear.

I would normally add a chain guide in this case.
 

Astro66

Active member
May 24, 2024
304
550
Sydney Australia
Oh BTW. I could be mistaken, but the wear here in the photo, looks like wear from the chain dropping off on the inside of the chainring. This is normally a sign that your front chain line is too far out. But I'm only guessing.

1726877829012.png
 

franciscoasismm

Active member
May 31, 2021
243
252
Badajoz
So the orbea rise 2022 2023, the 38 teeth is OK

I managed to get through 38 teeth!
It's just about right, but it's right
(on the other hand, the chain saver has to be removed)

I used STEPS SM-CRE70-12 (53mm)
I used the spider & installed a LJUNJE 38-tooth chainring
(because the original SHIMANO chainring, the quality is really not good, it looks like a 9-speed chainring .......)
And for the chain I installed a KMC TI-N

And the gears go like butter
super fast smooth

And with the 38 teeth
At 45kmh without forcing with 85RPM, you consume less (in theory).


View attachment 146956 View attachment 146957
3 years with 38T with my Canyon 🚀

Screenshot_20240303_114922~2.jpg IMG_20240304_121015~2.jpg
 

sandy raw

New Member
Aug 19, 2024
7
7
brussel
That has a 53mm chain line, where I'd say your 10 speed original has a 50mm, looking at the most common spiders for a 10 speed. If you post the part number we can check it.

This means your chain line at the front is 3mm further out, which should be fine. But it does mean you'll have more cross chaining when in the lower gears. And more chance of you're chain coming off when you're in the lower gears.

My test of too much cross chaining, when you move the front chain line out, is to put the bike in first gear, and roll the bike backwards. If the chain drops onto the second gear, then IMO there is too much cross chaining, and the chain may come off the front chain ring when on bumpy terrain in 1st gear.

I would normally add a chain guide in this case.
But I think you didn't understand the meaning of my message, what I placed it with is just perfect! it runs super clean the gear changes are super fast & quiet,

and I give people references if they want to install it and drive much faster with an orbea rise (it's possible :geek:).
 

Astro66

Active member
May 24, 2024
304
550
Sydney Australia
But I think you didn't understand the meaning of my message, what I placed it with is just perfect! it runs super clean the gear changes are super fast & quiet,

and I give people references if they want to install it and drive much faster with an orbea rise (it's possible :geek:).
Yes I understand the gear changes work well. But is the chain now falling off on the inside of the chain ring when you go over bumpy terrain in first gear, because the chain alignment has been altered.

I am speaking from experience when I changed the chain alignment. I needed to install a chain guide on the chain ring, because the chain kept coming off. Chains coming off is really annoying.

What you have done is great. But just make sure it hasn't caused other issues, by altering the chain alignment. So I guess I'm asking if your chain falls off ? Because it shouldn't.
 

franciscoasismm

Active member
May 31, 2021
243
252
Badajoz
Yes I understand the gear changes work well. But is the chain now falling off on the inside of the chain ring when you go over bumpy terrain in first gear, because the chain alignment has been altered.

I am speaking from experience when I changed the chain alignment. I needed to install a chain guide on the chain ring, because the chain kept coming off. Chains coming off is really annoying.

What you have done is great. But just make sure it hasn't caused other issues, by altering the chain alignment. So I guess I'm asking if your chain falls off ? Because it shouldn't.
The chain guide is important to adapt and not remove
 

Backflip

Member
Nov 6, 2023
70
55
Austria
Yes I understand the gear changes work well. But is the chain now falling off on the inside of the chain ring when you go over bumpy terrain in first gear, because the chain alignment has been altered.

I am speaking from experience when I changed the chain alignment. I needed to install a chain guide on the chain ring, because the chain kept coming off. Chains coming off is really annoying.

What you have done is great. But just make sure it hasn't caused other issues, by altering the chain alignment. So I guess I'm asking if your chain falls off ? Because it shouldn't.
It is amazing to mount a 38 chainring to an Orbea, but I absolutely agree => the correct "chainline" (or chain alignment) is essential for a perfect ride experience on the long run. (y)
Smooth and soft gear changes under perfect situations are great and essential, however, only if the chainline is perfect, gear changes under "bad" situations will also be smooth and exact.
So, placing the chainring more "outside" most probably will change the behaviour of the gear changes.
However, it seems like some manufacturers don´t care about a perfect chainline when delivering their bikes at all.
So, in such cases changing the chainring position more outwards may even improve gear changes. :)
 
Last edited:

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