Decathlon STILUS Full Suspension Electric Mountain Bike - SRAM SX

[RustyMTB]

I'm 6' tall & ride a large comfortably. I've left the stem alone & pushed the sadlle back as far as it will move on the rails & find it fine for long rides.

 

[Timmoh]

Hello guys, I have been recently offered the Stilus (Mod 2020, so with the 500 battery) in a used contidiont, but almost like new (around 1000 km done) for a reasonable price. I have just one big concern. After reading your comments my understanding is this bike has a weird geometry, the reach and the top tube lenght seems to be very short. It looks to me the size L is sold as an XL, correct me if I am wrong.
Now, I am 196 toll (maybe now with age I am a big short, but still...) and I am afraid the bike would be too short for me. Unfortunately the seller doesn't live very near, it's about 500 km roundtrip, so I don't want to go there just to see it, only if I am reasonably sure of buying it.
In alternative, I was offered this bike here: HYBRIDE ASX 2.7+ AL
in an almost new condition, around 200 km on it and warranty valid through January 2023. The stylus is under warranty too until June 2022. The price different though is 500 euros, 2.800 vs 3.200. Both have few upgrades, the stilus has Pirelli scorpion (tubeless) and a more comfortable seat. The Gohst has tubeles tyres as well.
I know the Gosht is a bit superior (but very comparable with same engine and same battery), but If I weren't concerned about the size I would go with the Stilus to save some cash. However, I absolutely don't want to spend almost 3.000 to get someting wihch would not satisfy me at 100 per cent.
Please help me with any suggestion, observation or comments.

Many thanks in advance!

At 6 5 I would think it maybe too small.
The 2020 sizes were as you said, XL is now the 2021 L (everything seemed to move down to add a "proper`XL).
I am a meagre 5 10/11 and I got the 2020 XL (now 2021 L-I know its confusing) and would not have wanted to go smaller.
I am even thinking of putting a slightly longer stem on mine tbh as the more I have ridden it, the more I feel I need just a bit more.
It's all personal preference and ape like arm length dependant though.
6 foot ish and you would be fine, 6 5 is pushing it imo.
Good luck with whatever you get though.

 

[Rap Dance 9000]

I’m 6’2 and have an XL , fit is great. Have wider handlebars than the stock .

 

[RustyMTB]

Thanks guys, went for a ride today and definitely not the seat or post as it still does it when I’m standing up.

Really sounds like it’s coming from the Stem so will remove and re-torque...

Did you get this sorted Phil? As mine is making the same noise now.

 

[PhilBaker]

I'm sure its the headset bearings but not had a chance to take the forks off and clean and grease them :-( and the noise is driving me nuts!

Will get around to it...

 

[Timmoh]

I'm sure its the headset bearings but not had a chance to take the forks off and clean and grease them :-( and the noise is driving me nuts!

Will get around to it...

Where the noisy knock in the motor when you need it to drown out the creak eh? ??

 

[RustyMTB]

I had a big ride earlier so a day off tomorrow which I'll use to take the fork out & have a clean & grease everything up session. I'll let you know if that's it.

 

[RustyMTB]

Did a strip down, clean up & re-grease of everything around the fork. I found the headset bearing to be fine. Although it's a cheap embedded race, it is covered quite well with two layers of protection. The fork crown race bearing however wasn't so impressive. It's a bit crunchy, even after cleaning & I'll replace it at the next service despite the fact it's only been on the bike since November. Seems to have done the trick though, based on a quick test ride.

 

[PhilBaker]

Thanks Rusty, you're a legend. Sounds about right.

Will sort mine at the weekend

 

[MickS]

@RustyMTB what types of bearings are used in the headset? Do you know diameters and angles of the lower and upper bearings? Mine also started to crackle, so I think it's time for replacement.

 

[RustyMTB]

I don't know tbh, didn't measure anything. What I can say is the headest bearing itself is a thrust bearing I.e. the individual ball bearings are embedded in a plastic ring that sits in a cup. The cup fits into the frame snugly & there is a plastic cover over the bearing to keep dirt out. Then you have a rubber covering that sits over the whole arrangement, beneath the headest itself.

It's therefore quite well shielded from dirt ingress and you can just disassemble, clean & re-grease it all. I'd reckon your clicking is more likely to be the crown race bearing at the base of the steerer tube. For that, it might be an idea to put the fork serial number into Rockshox trailhead & see if it tells you what bearing you need. Otherwise, you'll need to take the fork out & read ff the bearing specs which should be stamped onto the side of the bearing itself. That said, it may well be that these bearings are standardised sizes, I'm no expert on them but I believe there's a chap on here @Bearing Man ?? who knows about these things.

 

[Lordy71]

Seeing as the frame is a Lombardo and I’ve changed everything from the original bike pretty much I decided it’s my right to add Lombardo vinyl stickers ? View attachment 58776 View attachment 58774

That bike is gleaming what do you wash it with?

 

[MickS]

I don't know tbh, didn't measure anything. What I can say is the headest bearing itself is a thrust bearing I.e. the individual ball bearings are embedded in a plastic ring that sits in a cup. The cup fits into the frame snugly & there is a plastic cover over the bearing to keep dirt out. Then you have a rubber covering that sits over the whole arrangement, beneath the headest itself.

It's therefore quite well shielded from dirt ingress and you can just disassemble, clean & re-grease it all. I'd reckon your clicking is more likely to be the crown race bearing at the base of the steerer tube. For that, it might be an idea to put the fork serial number into Rockshox trailhead & see if it tells you what bearing you need. Otherwise, you'll need to take the fork out & read ff the bearing specs which should be stamped onto the side of the bearing itself. That said, it may well be that these bearings are standardised sizes, I'm no expert on them but I believe there's a chap on here @Bearing Man ?? who knows about these things.

So I've taken my chance and disassembled my headset. It was indeed the lower bearing that caused the crackling sounds, it was very, very dirty, it was barely moving with fingers. However, unlike on the photo from @RustyMTB where it has been very rusty mine was only covered with black muck and grime (that mixture of dust and grease, with some sand). Thorough cleaning and re-greasing did the trick. By the way, if someone is interested, the lower bearing has the following symbol: "TH MR019 1.5 36°x45°L 9"

The upper bearing was perfectly clean, the upper seal did its job very well. But the lower ring did not want to get out from the headset cup, it was stuck and I could not find a way to pull it out, so I could not see the bearing symbol. But the upper ring came out after removing the bearing seal and exposed the balls embedded in that plastic ring. So I've cleaned it this way (just in case).

I did some googling and I think I've found the exact model number of that FSA headset used in Stilus, I think it this one, for me the exploded view / cross-section drawing in the documentation PDF matches with what I can see on my bike.

 

[kriz]

I got round to checking my crank bolts last night & sure enough, both were loose. The non drive side not even finger tight. Seems to be a common thing with these from the factory.

I found mine was the same also, 40Nm apparently.

 

[PhilBaker]

Did a strip down, clean up & re-grease of everything around the fork. I found the headset bearing to be fine. Although it's a cheap embedded race, it is covered quite well with two layers of protection. The fork crown race bearing however wasn't so impressive. It's a bit crunchy, even after cleaning & I'll replace it at the next service despite the fact it's only been on the bike since November. Seems to have done the trick though, based on a quick test ride.

View attachment 59724

All sorted, thanks Rusty, exactly the same as yours. Lasted 2,000 miles though ;-)

I'd suggest people proactively clean this from time to time or you will get the dreaded creak too ;-)

Easy to do, you just need 3 pairs of hands!

 

[kydel]

Hi,
I will be buying this bike once its back in stock and will post some pictures with the changes, I'm allready buying stuff and haven't got the bike yet . I'm still not sure if I need to order a L or XL, I'm 6'2 ( 1m88) inside legs 2'8 ( 82cm), long upperbody and short legs, what is the right choice ?

 

[kydel]

Hi,
I will be buying this bike once its back in stock and will post some pictures with the changes, I'm allready buying stuff and haven't got the bike yet . I'm still not sure if I need to order a L or XL, I'm 6'2 ( 1m88) inside legs 2'8 ( 82cm), long upperbody and short legs, what is the right choice ?

There was an xl on stock few minutes ago and ordered it, thx Rob for the advice

 

[Jammybastard]

There is. 100% confirmed.

Any more news on this yet I’m waiting so patiently ?????????

 

[N16BS]

Hey guys. I'm 170cm (5'7''). What size of the 2021 version is better for me, S or M? According to their chart I'm on the exact border between S and M.

 

[MickS]

Hey guys. I'm 170cm (5'7''). What size of the 2021 version is better for me, S or M? According to their chart I'm on the exact border between S and M.

My advice is to get size M (V2 / 2021 sizing) in your case. I'm 173 cm, I have the size L (but in V1 / 2020 sizing, which is the equivalent for M in the V2 / 2021 sizing) and it's OK for me. Sometimes I think that even a one size up would be better for me, because for pedaling comfort I had to move the saddle back, beyond the max markings on the saddle rails. IMO choosing the M in your case will be better than S. Even in case when M would be a little too big for you, you will be able to shorten the effective reach by putting on the shorter (40 or 35 mm) stem and moving the saddle forward on the rails. IMO that's a better option than having a bike that is too small and to be forced to make the bike's effective front-center longer by putting a longer stem (this IMO would amplify the already weird geometry this bike has).

 

[N16BS]

My advice is to get size M (V2 / 2021 sizing) in your case. I'm 173 cm, I have the size L (but in V1 / 2020 sizing, which is the equivalent for M in the V2 / 2021 sizing) and it's OK for me. Sometimes I think that even a one size up would be better for me, because for pedaling comfort I had to move the saddle back, beyond the max markings on the saddle rails. IMO choosing the M in your case will be better than S. Even in case when M would be a little too big for you, you will be able to shorten the effective reach by putting on the shorter (40 or 35 mm) stem and moving the saddle forward on the rails. IMO that's a better option than having a bike that is too small and to be forced to make the bike's effective front-center longer by putting a longer stem (this IMO would amplify the already weird geometry this bike has).

Thanks for the detailed answer! I was also leaning towards the M, so be it. It should arrive in 9 days, can't wait.

 

[Jammybastard]

Thanks for the detailed answer! I was also leaning towards the M, so be it. It should arrive in 9 days, can't wait.

How did you get hold of 1 and how much ???

 

[Timmoh]

How did you get hold of 1 and how much ???

Was gonna be my question until I saw Poland

 

[Timmoh]

How did you get hold of 1 and how much ???

Certainly looks like us good ol brits are last on the bus. Any news anyone about posi le supply dates to UK. ?

 

[N16BS]

How did you get hold of 1 and how much ???

Yesterday Decathlon Poland showed a few Ss and Ms available. Ordered straight away. For 15999 PLN, that's around 3k GBP.

 

[Jammybastard]

Yesterday Decathlon Poland showed a few Ss and Ms available. Ordered straight away. For 15999 PLN, that's around 3k GBP.

Does that include shipping and taxes?

 

[MickS]

Does that include shipping and taxes?

Tax (VAT) included. For online orders above 99,99 PLN (ca 20 GBP) Decathlon had free delivery (even for bikes) for the whole country. But some time ago they started charging 29,99 PLN (ca 6 GBP) for FedEx bike delivery.
If you ask because you want to buy in PL and have it delivered to UK - I think it's impossible to be done by Decathlon.

 

[Jammybastard]

Tax (VAT) included. For online orders above 99,99 PLN (ca 20 GBP) Decathlon had free delivery (even for bikes) for the whole country. But some time ago they started charging 29,99 PLN (ca 6 GBP) for FedEx bike delivery.
If you ask because you want to buy in PL and have it delivered to UK - I think it's impossible to be done by Decathlon.

Ah ok will wait for the company to get some here ???

 

[Jammybastard]

Ah ok will wait for the company to get some here ???

I spoke to a chap at decathlon today on the phone not sure but it sounds like staff are being kept in the dark too ??????

 

[Timmoh]

I spoke to a chap at decathlon today on the phone not sure but it sounds like staff are being kept in the dark too ??????

Me too. They are on the site but shops do not know anymore than possibly August/Sept online.
Prce at 3.5k is also a bit of a shock tbh. Cube 140 will probably be the choice for many if the deal is right-Lbs, parts availability etc.
Is this hike purely a Brexit thing re import charges as 625 batt and short cranks are able to be bought for the hike price as standalone parts (ish} unless you, like me, are buying for the missus and swapping batts.
The value appeal surely dissipates for the newbie to Stilus.