PhilBaker
Well-known member
These are the bikes made and sold by Lombardi, who also sold a load to Decathlon in a "Decathlon version"...
Decathlon STILUS Full Suspension Electric Mountain Bike - SRAM SX
- Thread starter johnm
- Start date
hampsterracing
Member
On cleaning duties today after a session on haldon hill yesterday and the front sprocket is loose !!
Has anyone got a link for the crank arm removal tool ? (yes i know its a stilus and they normally remove themselves
)
Also a link for the sprocket nut tool ( i think its an isis ? )
Has anyone got a link for the crank arm removal tool ? (yes i know its a stilus and they normally remove themselves
)Also a link for the sprocket nut tool ( i think its an isis ? )
PhilBaker
Well-known member
Fitted some additional upgrades/xmas presents over the holidays. Here's my top installation tips and initial thoughts:-
over the holidays. Here's my top installation tips and initial thoughts:-- Replaced the Purion display for a Kiox Display
- Level of effort/difficulty: Medium. No special tools needed, just need a really small Allen key or the ability to 'bend' one .
- Install: Hardest part is removing the bash guard, the front Allen bolts are easy to remove, the rear ones are a pig! I removed the rear wheel and found an old cheapo Allen key from Ikea and bent it so I could get to the bolts. If you can do this then no need to remove the crank/buy a crank puller. Once the bash guard is off, you can unscrew the two bolts on the engine casing (Purion display side of the bike), then give it a little pull and it will slide up the crank arm out of your way. You can then feed the new cable from the front down behind where the battery sits and under the bottom bracket to where you need it. I thought it would be hard to route the cable but it was really easy. just make sure you watch the colour scheme direction of the connectors you pull out and put the new one in the same way.
- Thoughts: I love it, I'm into my gadgets and settings and love all the info and ability to change settings like the wheel circumference and to have a clock whilst your riding! Also a night the Purion is just this horrible annoying bright white light, where as the Kiox is much more subtle. Cable routing on the bars can be a little annoying for some, but for me it's not a big deal for the benefit of the display.
- Level of effort/difficulty: Medium. No special tools needed, just need a really small Allen key or the ability to 'bend' one
- Installed a Volspeed 3 (My Uncle owns loads of Private Land )
- Level of effort/difficulty: Medium
- Install: If you are changing the display to a Kiox, this is a REALLY GOOD time to install as all the hard work has been done already removing the bash guard. Cabling it in is super easy and there is plenty of room to 'shove' the Volspeed into the space where all the cables go towards the battery. Really easy install when you have removed the bash guard (although you may want to set your display to KMH for the install so it matches the manual, trust me, you will wish you had if you don't and then change back once setup)
- Thoughts: I really love the feeling of not hitting the wall. The Volspeed seems a really good piece of kit, worked exactly as it was supposed to. Easy to turn on and off, and the "dynamic" setting allows the engine support to slowly disengage when you hit your pre-set max speed much more gently than the bike as standard.
- Upgraded to a 625w Battery
- Level of effort/difficulty: Easy
- Install: You remove the battery (no shit!), then undo the two Allen bolts (with the long metal cable holders on them) on the bottom battery bracket. once it's removed, undo the two Star nut's holding the battery bracket to the long black metal piece you just removed from the bike. Once removed, turn it around and do it back up the, then mount it back in battery compartment. Image the majority of the battery bracket now sits inside the frame and then do up the two Allen bolts. I found tightening them up when they are pushed towards the top bracket, gave me the nicest snug fit to the 625w battery once installed.
- Thoughts: Definitely more capacity, although will take a few rides to validate it truly is 25% more. you can feel it weighs more than the 500w but I have no doubt it will extend the range.
Thank God for cheap Allen keys you can bend eh? Been there, done that and now part of the Stilus main toolkit ?.Fitted some additional upgrades/xmas presents
Let me know if you have any questions!
- Replaced the Purion display for a Kiox Display
- Level of effort/difficulty: Medium. No special tools needed, just need a really small Allen key or the ability to 'bend' one
- Install: Hardest part is removing the bash guard, the front Allen bolts are easy to remove, the rear ones are a pig! I removed the rear wheel and found an old cheapo Allen key from Ikea and bent it so I could get to the bolts. If you can do this then no need to remove the crank/buy a crank puller. Once the bash guard is off, you can unscrew the two bolts on the engine casing (Purion display side of the bike), then give it a little pull and it will slide up the crank arm out of your way. You can then feed the new cable from the front down behind where the battery sits and under the bottom bracket to where you need it. I thought it would be hard to route the cable but it was really easy. just make sure you watch the colour scheme direction of the connectors you pull out and put the new one in the same way.
- Thoughts: I love it, I'm into my gadgets and settings and love all the info and ability to change settings like the wheel circumference and to have a clock whilst your riding! Also a night the Purion is just this horrible annoying bright white light, where as the Kiox is much more subtle. Cable routing on the bars can be a little annoying for some, but for me it's not a big deal for the benefit of the display.
- Installed a Volspeed 3 (My Uncle owns loads of Private Land
- Level of effort/difficulty: Medium
- Install: If you are changing the display to a Kiox, this is a REALLY GOOD time to install as all the hard work has been done already removing the bash guard. Cabling it in is super easy and there is plenty of room to 'shove' the Volspeed into the space where all the cables go towards the battery. Really easy install when you have removed the bash guard (although you may want to set your display to KMH for the install so it matches the manual, trust me, you will wish you had if you don't and then change back once setup)
- Thoughts: I really love the feeling of not hitting the wall. The Volspeed seems a really good piece of kit, worked exactly as it was supposed to. Easy to turn on and off, and the "dynamic" setting allows the engine support to slowly disengage when you hit your pre-set max speed much more gently than the bike as standard.
- Upgraded to a 625w Battery
- Level of effort/difficulty: Easy
- Install: You remove the battery (no shit!), then undo the two Allen bolts (with the long metal cable holders on them) on the bottom battery bracket. once it's removed, undo the two Star nut's holding the battery bracket to the long black metal piece you just removed from the bike. Once removed, turn it around and do it back up the, then mount it back in battery compartment. Image the majority of the battery bracket now sits inside the frame and then do up the two Allen bolts. I found tightening them up when they are pushed towards the top bracket, gave me the nicest snug fit to the 625w battery once installed.
- Thoughts: Definitely more capacity, although will take a few rides to validate it truly is 25% more. you can feel it weighs more than the 500w but I have no doubt it will extend the range.
Hi guys, some time ago I started to hear strange clicking / pinging sounds during hard braking. I've checked the rotor and caliper bolts, they are all fine. It's similar to the sound that comes from squishing two crossing spokes with you hand. Could the spokes be just stretched over time and just need some re-tightening? I've also noticed that on the front wheel the spoke tension on the rotor side is higher than on the other side (judging it by ear, based on the spoke pitch). Is it normal situation or the built quality of these SunRingle Duroc 42s is so-so? Did some of you guys experienced similar issues?
They'll be machine built wheels so yes spoke tension could probably be increased.
Lower tension on the non disc side is perfectly normal. Only dishless wheels have the same spoke tension on each side. disc wheels aren't very often dishless.
learn to true/tension your own wheels. it's nowhere near as difficult as folk think it is and a great skill to have. All you need is a decent spoke key, You don't even really need a jig. just do it with the wheels in the frame and a makeshift guide attached to the fork legs or frame stays. blu tac and a couple of pencils would do for home trueing
Lower tension on the non disc side is perfectly normal. Only dishless wheels have the same spoke tension on each side. disc wheels aren't very often dishless.
learn to true/tension your own wheels. it's nowhere near as difficult as folk think it is and a great skill to have. All you need is a decent spoke key, You don't even really need a jig. just do it with the wheels in the frame and a makeshift guide attached to the fork legs or frame stays. blu tac and a couple of pencils would do for home trueing
Probably spokes but check the pad springs as if pads are worn/worn uneven, you could be catching an edge of the spring. Mine was spring, my lads was spokes-worth a look.
Just a thought.
Im a bit puzzled by this botch motor upgrade. Its obvious more torque would lower the range.
Meanwhile we now have new emtb's that are sold on being lighter with a smaller battery but good range due to custom lower torque motor settings.
If I had a bosch emtb at the time I would have avoided the update.
PhilBaker
Well-known member
I did make a later post saying the tyre pressures I was running actually caused the majority of the drop. The 85nm upgrade really didn't seem to make that much of a difference to my battery longevity, but I'm not pushing it hard in eMTB or Turbo (where the extra nm of Torque are utilised). It would be interesting to see a stat from someone who uses Turbo all the time, before and after the update. I would expect a larger difference as you say.
One other thing to note, the update also changes how the power is delivered ie Boost, which is a really great feature and you can feel the difference...
One other thing to note, the update also changes how the power is delivered ie Boost, which is a really great feature and you can feel the difference...
Bombed about in Emtb on Ewilds a few times. November/December getting home typically on 1 to 2 bars after 15-20 miles roughly & say 15.00/2000 ft of climbing. All south downs, so nothing vertical, about 30 Psi back & front on average. Hope that helps.
Pigin
Well-known member
The update from 75 to 85 nm is a must imho. The difference in emtb is night and day. Before emtb was twitchy after it is smooth with a great boost facility. With regards affect on battery it is simple physics that says it will use more, just like going faster in your car uses more fuel. In reality unless you are getting home with zero battery and/or using turbo all the time then I guess it is not noticeable on battery drain. Put an extra 1 or 2 psi in your tyres if you are concerned and that would off set it.
Interestingly whilst at my LBS (Cycle Addicts Rochdale, yes they are amazing) for a light switch on in the motor I was told there was an update for both the battery and motor. Not a major version just a v0.0.1 or something similar. Needless to say they did it at the same time as the light. Now, how concerned should I be that the light is reducing my range. None. I ride according to % battery meter on the Kiox and judge the assistance accordingly. Please don’t take this the wrong way but a bit of a head wind will have more affect on battery usage than the 75 to 85 nm update.
Zecalama
Member
Hello, just an info update about my range (original) battery on display.
Yesterday, after a full charge, did 10Km in straight dirt (/hard) road, no climbs/descents, in Eco mode, just soft riding, and surprisingly the range went up to an incredible 140Km!!
After that, in the way back, also in Eco mode, done some more 15Km (but pushing it hard), and got home with still some awesome 97Km range.
Hope soon can do some bigger rides to confirm the real range.
Yesterday, after a full charge, did 10Km in straight dirt (/hard) road, no climbs/descents, in Eco mode, just soft riding, and surprisingly the range went up to an incredible 140Km!!
After that, in the way back, also in Eco mode, done some more 15Km (but pushing it hard), and got home with still some awesome 97Km range.
Hope soon can do some bigger rides to confirm the real range.
Last edited:
royle100
Member
Any tips on finding a discounted 625w battery?Fitted some additional upgrades/xmas presents
Let me know if you have any questions!
- Upgraded to a 625w Battery
- Level of effort/difficulty: Easy
- Install: You remove the battery (no shit!), then undo the two Allen bolts (with the long metal cable holders on them) on the bottom battery bracket. once it's removed, undo the two Star nut's holding the battery bracket to the long black metal piece you just removed from the bike. Once removed, turn it around and do it back up the, then mount it back in battery compartment. Image the majority of the battery bracket now sits inside the frame and then do up the two Allen bolts. I found tightening them up when they are pushed towards the top bracket, gave me the nicest snug fit to the 625w battery once installed.
- Thoughts: Definitely more capacity, although will take a few rides to validate it truly is 25% more. you can feel it weighs more than the 500w but I have no doubt it will extend the range.
taxidriver50005
Active member
Well v2 is now listed on French decathlon sight..... Only upgrade is bigger battery and price.
www.decathlon.fr
VÉLO VTT ÉLECTRIQUE E-AM STILUS BLEU 27.5+ V2
VÉLO VTT ÉLECTRIQUE E-AM STILUS BLEU 27.5+ V2 au prix de ★ 3699€ ★ sur Decathlon.fr. Ce VTT électrique a été sélectionné pour la pratique du VTT ALL MOUNTAIN
www.decathlon.fr
charlieback
Member
shortened cranks too I think. that would nudge the price up I guessWell v2 is now listed on French decathlon sight..... Only upgrade is bigger battery and price.
VÉLO VTT ÉLECTRIQUE E-AM STILUS BLEU 27.5+ V2
VÉLO VTT ÉLECTRIQUE E-AM STILUS BLEU 27.5+ V2 au prix de ★ 3699€ ★ sur Decathlon.fr. Ce VTT électrique a été sélectionné pour la pratique du VTT ALL MOUNTAIN
Rap Dance 9000
Active member
Are there still going to be two new versions then ? So essentially update to 625w battery and shorter cranks and you have V2 , where’s cheapest 625 battery options , anyone ? Peas oot
PhilBaker
Well-known member
It is nice when it says that , if only it were True!
The Bosch systems uses the last mile of riding to predict your potential range. I've had it up to 100miles before but the most I've actually got on a fairly flat eco journey is around 80 miles with high rolling pumped up tyres...
, if only it were True!The Bosch systems uses the last mile of riding to predict your potential range. I've had it up to 100miles before but the most I've actually got on a fairly flat eco journey is around 80 miles with high rolling pumped up tyres...
PhilBaker
Well-known member
I brought my 625w battery on here second hand, but almost new. Occasionally there are reasonable prices on them from Amazon.co.uk to be fair, shipped from Europe...
Bit of sizing help please. Looking at getting another Stilus (V2 for the missus) as mine has been superb. I would like to know if anyone has a size Small from the first/original version?
The Decathlon site only shows the geometry chart with data for M thru to XL. The write up /advice recommends rider "heights" for the sizes, including small, but I know that for me who should have been a L, the XL is perfect, even though the height chart said otherwise.
I know there's a huge amount of size posts on the early/middle part of this Stilus forum (Yes, I was one of the original Stilus
Owners/followers/religion), but obviously only interested in my sizes at the time.
I have literally measured loads of bikes to get a rough range for my wife's bike requirements (including her acoustic) and the M seems to fit the bill/riding style, but I would still like to have a few actual measurements for the S size if possible.
Really looking for Reach, Standover height and seat tube length. I need to work out the dropper height at both extremes as this will be a big factor for her and feeling confident when stopping without getting a 25kg bike on her. If it help, she is 5'4" tall and has a 29.5" inside leg (she has 2 legs BTW!). In metric 163cm and 75cm.
Any help is much appreciated as I don't
The Decathlon site only shows the geometry chart with data for M thru to XL. The write up /advice recommends rider "heights" for the sizes, including small, but I know that for me who should have been a L, the XL is perfect, even though the height chart said otherwise.
I know there's a huge amount of size posts on the early/middle part of this Stilus forum (Yes, I was one of the original Stilus
Owners/followers/religion), but obviously only interested in my sizes at the time.
I have literally measured loads of bikes to get a rough range for my wife's bike requirements (including her acoustic) and the M seems to fit the bill/riding style, but I would still like to have a few actual measurements for the S size if possible.
Really looking for Reach, Standover height and seat tube length. I need to work out the dropper height at both extremes as this will be a big factor for her and feeling confident when stopping without getting a 25kg bike on her. If it help, she is 5'4" tall and has a 29.5" inside leg (she has 2 legs BTW!). In metric 163cm and 75cm.
Any help is much appreciated as I don't
Just finish ?, "as I dont" expect the stores to have any to try for a while yet.
Rap Dance 9000
Active member
Any ideas on this ? Think decathlon will sort me with a new battery cover ? This will be dead in a few days
MPJ
Active member
You
might also try asking Lombardo direct for just a spare mechanism as they are simple to swap out. How's your Italian? ??Any ideas on this ? Think decathlon will sort me with a new battery cover ? This will be dead in a few days
View attachment 53122
Rap Dance 9000
Active member
Hi guys,
I'm 5,6". what is the suggestion to me? M or maybe an L size frame? I think the can be the good one, but this thing, that there are no information about the reach, can be frustrating. How about you with the height and the frame size you have choosen?
I'm 5,6". what is the suggestion to me? M or maybe an L size frame? I think the can be the good one, but this thing, that there are no information about the reach, can be frustrating. How about you with the height and the frame size you have choosen?
PhilBaker
Well-known member
Hi ZoZa,
I'm 5'10" and have an L. I found it a little small so brought a longer stem which was cheap and easy upgrade and now love the fit.
Saying that, my wife also rides it at 5'4" and whilst not a big mountain biker, she loves the fit.
Given that I'd probably say L and then you have flexibility.
Saying that, there will be. a lot of people waiting to hit the button on an L when they are released, so if you can only get a M, I would imagine at 5'6" you would be fine on a M unless you have really long arms (as it the reach that tends to come up small compared to other bike frame sizes).
I agree. I'm looking at a M for the missus (5' 4" also) even though the sizing on the euro sites say it should be a small.
The only issue is the unknown standover height, although there is only a certain amount the seat tube can be shortened on the small due to the vertical shock.
That's a nightmare.
Are you talking about last year's original price plus 20%, or are you saying it is this year's price (on the Italian and French sites) plus 20%?
Your reply will possibly mean a rethink for me too.
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