Decathlon Rockrider E-ST900

[chamaruco]

next time try to align the pad first..

 

[BeBiker]

Just to add. Despite torquing up, mine still does it when cornering at speed! Let’s know how you get on?

Mine did that till +-800km

 

[Gary Davis]

Hi! I bought an E-ST 900 in December but I just started using it because of the weather. Everything is fine, except I also have a noisy rear brake (when cornering at 20+ km/h). What is the correct way to fix? Is this just a simple brake setting (what I will learn on YT ) ? Or should something be replaced in the store?

Maybe some of you will laugh but I had exactly the same "noise" and I read everything and its opposite until I realized that it appeared around 15,5 mph. It is absolutely not a question of torque. When I "modified" the engine for private areas (of course !) , the noise disappeared like a miracle. As this noise resembles a metallic friction, it is believed that it could be the brake caliper but it is an internal noise of the engine related to the limitation to 15,5 mph

 

[RonnieX]

Mine is definitely the rear brake rotor connecting with the pads, despite tightened to 20nm.

If you grab the rear wheel and move it with one hand from side to side. You can see the rotor move side to side in the brake calliper. There simply isn’t enough torque!

9 months old and 1850 miles covered, but still does it!

 

[Gary Davis]

Mine is definitely the rear brake rotor connecting with the pads, despite tightened to 20nm.

If you grab the rear wheel and move it with one hand from side to side. You can see the rotor move side to side in the brake calliper. There simply isn’t enough torque!

9 months old and 1850 miles covered, but still does it!

Then for those who have formally located the origin of this noise at the caliper it would rather be a manufacturing defect of the hub on which the disc support is mounted. Simply try to mount another wheel with the recommended torque and see

 

[Zimmerframe]

If you look at some of the axle heads, they're thicker than others. If you compare the image from @DT36 for the sram one, it has quite a slim head. Where as the one @Chal "modified" ... has quite a thick head. I take it the default one is quite brittle as I stripped the hex head on mine the other day (specialized - same sized axle) and ended up hammering in a t40 torx to get it out.

Bodge it !

This post has been sponsored by Sam Pilgrim .. After yesterday's awesome day of tool destruction and converting a torque wrench into a much more useful torque hammer. We headed off to find something new to destroy ! Today's bodge - removing the rear axle .. I actually used a torque wrench...

www.emtbforums.com

It might not just be a case of torque. The axle can only go in so far on the receiving end with the thread. Over torquing might pull it in slightly further, but it might be that they made an error and it really needed a 147 axle ? So maybe the answer is to place a 1mm spacer/washer over the axle so it clamps the rear triangle 1mm tighter together when it's tight ? ie, imagine the head is then 1mm thicker along the shaft, so the shaft is then effectively 1mm shorter.

So .. like Gary has said in far less words and far quicker

 

[RonnieX]

@Gary Davis Not that ‘simple’ when you don’t have one! ??

 

[DT36]

Mine is definitely the rear brake rotor connecting with the pads, despite tightened to 20nm.

If you grab the rear wheel and move it with one hand from side to side. You can see the rotor move side to side in the brake calliper. There simply isn’t enough torque!

9 months old and 1850 miles covered, but still does it!

Would a shim work here, maybe?

 

[Gary Davis]

If you look at some of the axle heads, they're thicker than others. If you compare the image from @DT36 for the sram one, it has quite a slim head. Where as the one @Chal "modified" ... has quite a thick head. I take it the default one is quite brittle as I stripped the hex head on mine the other day (specialized - same sized axle) and ended up hammering in a t40 torx to get it out.

Bodge it !

This post has been sponsored by Sam Pilgrim .. After yesterday's awesome day of tool destruction and converting a torque wrench into a much more useful torque hammer. We headed off to find something new to destroy ! Today's bodge - removing the rear axle .. I actually used a torque wrench...

www.emtbforums.com

It might not just be a case of torque. The axle can only go in so far on the receiving end with the thread. Over torquing might pull it in slightly further, but it might be that they made an error and it really needed a 147 axle ? So maybe the answer is to place a 1mm spacer/washer over the axle so it clamps the rear triangle 1mm tighter together when it's tight ? ie, imagine the head is then 1mm thicker along the shaft, so the shaft is then effectively 1mm shorter.

So .. like Gary has said in far less words and far quicker

Google translate has become so much my best friend that he can stay at home ?

 

[Chal]

If you look at some of the axle heads, they're thicker than others. If you compare the image from @DT36 for the sram one, it has quite a slim head.

Yes, the original thru axle (Thru Axle Rear Wheel 12x148 mm BOOST Steel) has a larger head. BTW, I think this Sram axle is not compatible because the thread pitch is shorter (1.0 mm vs. 1.5 mm). I finally ordered an original one from Dechathlon, hope to get it tomorrow.

So maybe the answer is to place a 1mm spacer/washer over the axle so it clamps the rear triangle 1mm tighter together when it's tight ? ie, imagine the head is then 1mm thicker along the shaft, so the shaft is then effectively 1mm shorter.

Good idea, I will try it (if the original setup will not be good with the new axle).

 

[RonnieX]

I note with interest that the thru axle @Chal linked to (which is unavailable on the UK Decathlon site by the way) is 178mm. Whereas mine is 180mm.

Would 2mm make any difference?

 

[Chal]

Maybe not, as I see there’s enough space for +2mm on the other side of the frame (under the cap screw).

 

[Chal]

I've got the new thru axle today. Thigten it to 20nm, set the caliper, and reverse the rear tire becasue decathlon put it on the wrong direction (and I have not noticed it so far)
The metallic noise became quieter but still exist. I think the root cause maybe the big lugs on the Taipan Koloss tires. Isn't it possible that they are resonate the wheel and the brake rotor on asphalt at high speeds?

 

[RonnieX]

Thats a good observation @Chal. I changed my tyres for Conti Cross Kings and notice that only when I’m on super smooth tarmac the noise isn't evident. Your theory has some credence. ?

 

[Gary Davis]

Hi, So far I didn't have this brake caliper noise problem and hadn't had to remove my rear wheel yet. Yesterday I changed my rear brake. Larger disc and 4 piston caliper. I reassembled everything and tightened my wheel to 11 nm. I went to test it all on the road and I heard this caliper noise but only when cornering. This confirms torsion problem due to tightening torque. Unfortunately, I didn't verify the original tightening torque. I will try to gradually increase the tightening torque, realign caliper and see if there is any improvement.

 

[Gary Davis]

Ok. Just tested on the road. A little bit better but I didn't realign the caliper. What I've also noticed is the squeaky, creaky noise when I removed my wheels for the the first time. When I reassemble the front wheel I put some anti seize grease and it's ok. The reason I bring up this is because I think this resistance to tightening (metal/metal)could trick the torque wrench. I realized that after putting some anti seize grease on the axle thread. I was clearly able to rotate the axis further before reaching the recommended tightening torque.

 

[Zecalama]

Hello, thinking on buying an EST900, anyone knows why they changed the Bosch motor to a Brose?

 

[BeBiker]

I never saw a E-st900 with a Bosch motor.

 

[IOMTT]

Hello, thinking on buying an EST900, anyone knows why they changed the Bosch motor to a Brose?

Your thinking of a stilus

 

[Zecalama]

Right, they told me that (about the Bosch motor) on a Decathlon shop, but it was a mistake.

 

[Zecalama]

Will let here a video, of a ride in a mountain here in Portugal, with a nice landscape on the top.

 

[Gary Davis]

Will let here a video, of a ride in a mountain here in Portugal, with a nice landscape on the top.

Douro ?

 

[Zecalama]

Douro ?

yes, Rio Douro (which flows into Porto city) down bottom there.

 

[Gary Davis]

yes, Rio Douro (which flows into Porto city) down bottom there.

I'm from Belgium but I really love Portugal since I was young. Wonderful landscapes and really nice people.

 

[MLI]

My two first big tests of EST900.

First:

• Distance
  45.2 km
• Time
  3:20:33
• Elevation
  1,261 m

,came back with 60% battery.



Second:

• Distance
  81.0 km
• Time
  4:23:20
• Elevation
  2,104 m

,came back with 40% battery.

 

[MLI]

• 96km
  Distance
• 5:30:43
  Moving Time
• 1,061m Elevation

 

[Gary Davis]

• 96km
  Distance
• 5:30:43
  Moving Time
• 1,061m Elevation

Really nice trip. What was the power setting to achieve almost 100 km ?

 

[MLI]

Really nice trip. What was the power setting to achieve almost 100 km ?

All in Eco mode and on some flat straight parts speed was over 25kmph so motor assistance was off..

 

[neilski]

After suffering and trying to rectify this very same issue since i got my Bike in December 2019 I finally changed the tyres (after someone mentioned a resonance issue) and no longer have the problem at all.

 

[Keeprubbersidedown]

Hello everyone! 1st post here!
What brake pads are you using on your EST900? Do you know alternatives to this A10GS from Decathlon? Here in Sweden they can only be ordered from Decathlon which is terribly slow for anything.