Decathlon Rockrider E-ST900
- Thread starter Al-Rider
- Start date
ok, i'm continuing to test this bike on mullet side.
i have to say it is amazing! after few issues due to the switch back to the original 80mm stem now i'm ok with a 60mm one.
i don't feel the bike uncomfortable on the uphill neither unwanted rise of the front wheel.
but what i feel is a great agility and comfort in every conditions. it seems that riding with a 27,5 was the anomaly and now it works as it was born for.
the macroscopic improvement is the absence of that sensation of overturning during hard downhill.
even the fork seems to work better.
i have to say it is amazing! after few issues due to the switch back to the original 80mm stem now i'm ok with a 60mm one.
i don't feel the bike uncomfortable on the uphill neither unwanted rise of the front wheel.
but what i feel is a great agility and comfort in every conditions. it seems that riding with a 27,5 was the anomaly and now it works as it was born for.
the macroscopic improvement is the absence of that sensation of overturning during hard downhill.
even the fork seems to work better.
Last edited:
Interesting experiment to mullet one of these. They are not exactly the longest reach bike to start with so doing this obviously reduces what you have but you sound like you are ok with that. Rolling the bars forward can help a little rather than sticking a longer stem on there, also making the stem as low as possible.
Personally I like mullet and both my full sus and hardtail are setup this way. The full sus is fully configurable so I can adjust the geometry to suit which wheel size or combo I want but that is unusual. The hardtail is compromised in the same way so I need to adapt and live with the issues but the bike is very long reach in the first place.
Be interesting how you find it over a period of time and if you switch back to compare at all?
Personally I like mullet and both my full sus and hardtail are setup this way. The full sus is fully configurable so I can adjust the geometry to suit which wheel size or combo I want but that is unusual. The hardtail is compromised in the same way so I need to adapt and live with the issues but the bike is very long reach in the first place.
Be interesting how you find it over a period of time and if you switch back to compare at all?
i did, as you suggest me, last week.. then I was so unhappy that i was returning back to 27,5. when i gave a chance to a stem shorter.
and it is shorter than the stock one. so i don't know if i'm changing the "optimal" or i'm just doing the best assessment for this bike.
and it is shorter than the stock one. so i don't know if i'm changing the "optimal" or i'm just doing the best assessment for this bike.
Last edited:
Troutwrestler
Member
Can anyone tell me the actual model of hubs fitted to this bike? All the info says Sun Ringle Duroc wheelset, but I dont think the hubs are actually Sun Ringle.
Does anyone know?
Does anyone know?
Did you reset the trip?
If this is a question for me, then no I didn't.
Haven't been out in it much lately to tell the truth, as my wife has been on it, while I ride my old normally aspirated Saracen. It's actually dry this week, but the weather is -3 deg at the moment during the day and I think that's in all week.
It's not so much the cold that's keeping me in, but more the black ice that's on the trails and roads.
I'm sticking with my turbo trainer in the warm garage for the time being
I will look at this again when we get back out, as I've actually got an E-ST520 getting delivered tomorrow for the wife, so I will be back out on it as some point soon.
Funnynthat ive got a st900 and my wifes 520 is coming friday.??If this is a question for me, then no I didn't.
Haven't been out in it much lately to tell the truth, as my wife has been on it, while I ride my old normally aspirated Saracen. It's actually dry this week, but the weather is -3 deg at the moment during the day and I think that's in all week.
It's not so much the cold that's keeping me in, but more the black ice that's on the trails and roads.
I'm sticking with my turbo trainer in the warm garage for the time being
I will look at this again when we get back out, as I've actually got an E-ST520 getting delivered tomorrow for the wife, so I will be back out on it as some point soon.
did you change the tyres on the 520?
Hi, no. The 520 is still on the original tyres (Hutchinson Cougar). These are much smaller than the tyres on your 900.
The rear tyre was facing the wrong way when it arrived, which I was intending to turn around. However, on our first ride out it punctured about 200m from home on our return, so I had no choice but to sort it out. Seems a very thin/light tyre.
For the rides that we are doing at the moment, light trails and cycle paths, these tyres seem to be OK. However, as her riding starts to improve and we start doing more forest trails, I think I'd like to swap them out for tubeless. I fitted a set of Maxxis Ardents to my 900 which are definitely better all round than the original tyres fitted.
Overall, the 520 is very different to the 900 component wise, but seems to be a decent bike so far and is very strong on the hills, or she is a lot fitter than me
Hi, no. The 520 is still on the original tyres (Hutchinson Cougar). These are much smaller than the tyres on your 900.
The rear tyre was facing the wrong way when it arrived, which I was intending to turn around. However, on our first ride out it punctured about 200m from home on our return, so I had no choice but to sort it out. Seems a very thin/light tyre.
For the rides that we are doing at the moment, light trails and cycle paths, these tyres seem to be OK. However, as her riding starts to improve and we start doing more forest trails, I think I'd like to swap them out for tubeless. I fitted a set of Maxxis Ardents to my 900 which are definitely better all round than the original tyres fitted.
Overall, the 520 is very different to the 900 component wise, but seems to be a decent bike so far and is very strong on the hills, or she is a lot fitter than me
Hi, I've had a E-ST520 for a couple of weeks now and picked up a slow puncture on the front. I figured while I was fixing it I'd make them tubeless but your comment about swapping out the Hutchinson Cougars for tubeless made me double take. Are they not able to be made tubeless, and do you need different tyres if you want to remove the tubes. I understand that I need to tape and seal the rims and tyres but thought I could do that with the Cougars..... am I wrong?
I belive the rims are taped already...dont mess around with tubed tyres get tubeless on asap, you will need 2 tubless valves and some liquid sealent. Good luck.
Roger that! Just to by crystal... I can keep the Hutchinson Cougars without tubes?
Dont think so
Look at some "tubeless ready TLR TL..." mark on the tyres. They exist in both versions.
Besides that, internet says non-tubeless tyres work perfectly as tubeless...
The hardest part of the conversion, in my case, was to get the first time the tyre inflated on the rim.
The first 3 days I had to re-inflate the tyre somewhat, after that it kept the pressure (3bar)
Besides that, internet says non-tubeless tyres work perfectly as tubeless...
The hardest part of the conversion, in my case, was to get the first time the tyre inflated on the rim.
The first 3 days I had to re-inflate the tyre somewhat, after that it kept the pressure (3bar)
Even some tubeless ready tyres seep through the sidewalls sometimes. Though this is normally manufacturing faults. If you're lucky, they seal themselves up and all is well.
As @BeBiker says, sometimes it can be difficult at the start . Getting the tyre to seat correctly with no tube to push it out can be tricky. Sometimes you need to take the valve out so you can get air in faster than it's escaping to push the tyre out to the rim.
Maybe try this first before you put fluid in to get a feel for it before you start splashing sticky fluid everywhere. It's easy to pop one side off the rim to put the fluid in afterwards and at least you know one side is already seated. A compressor is ideal as it will deliver a lot of air very quickly and seat the tyre.
It's a good idea to take the bike for a short ride right after you've done it. This squishes the tyre about and splashes the fluid everywhere, so if there are any tiny rim gaps, tape gaps, tyre holes - these can seal up.
As @BeBiker says, sometimes it can be difficult at the start . Getting the tyre to seat correctly with no tube to push it out can be tricky. Sometimes you need to take the valve out so you can get air in faster than it's escaping to push the tyre out to the rim.
Maybe try this first before you put fluid in to get a feel for it before you start splashing sticky fluid everywhere. It's easy to pop one side off the rim to put the fluid in afterwards and at least you know one side is already seated. A compressor is ideal as it will deliver a lot of air very quickly and seat the tyre.
It's a good idea to take the bike for a short ride right after you've done it. This squishes the tyre about and splashes the fluid everywhere, so if there are any tiny rim gaps, tape gaps, tyre holes - these can seal up.
I wouldn't even call this "Sometimes", but use it as standard procedure...
Put the new-package-folded-tyre flat on the ground for a day helped a lot too.
After manually re-bending the borders
Sound advice. With some tyres, it's a good idea to mount the tyre first with a tube so it has chance to form correctly.
If it's cold, bring them inside first also so they warm up a bit and are more supple.
Top forum. 
I didn't think of that, I will surely do it that way next time.
That's 1,5 euro per inflate, I'm much too (avaricious miserly stingy parsimonious ? ) for that
Last edited:
Rims are already taped up and ready to go.
I'm away from home for the next few days with work, so can't check the tyre. However, I don't think it's a tubeless.
I opted for the Maxxis Ardent in the link below:
Maxxis Ardent Folding Dual Compound EXO/TR 27.5" MTB Tyre | Tredz Bikes
Save 33% - Maxxis Ardent Folding Dual Compound EXO/TR 27.5" MTB Tyre £39.99 or available with 0% APR finance on baskets over £99. All 27.5" (650b) Tyres are delivered free to the UK mainland*, 365 day returns & Price Match. Buy Now.
www.tredz.co.uk
Rims are already taped up and ready to go.
I'm away from home for the next few days with work, so can't check the tyre. However, I don't think it's a tubeless.
I opted for the Maxxis Ardent in the link below:
Maxxis Ardent Folding Dual Compound EXO/TR 27.5" MTB Tyre | Tredz Bikes
Save 33% - Maxxis Ardent Folding Dual Compound EXO/TR 27.5" MTB Tyre £39.99 or available with 0% APR finance on baskets over £99. All 27.5" (650b) Tyres are delivered free to the UK mainland*, 365 day returns & Price Match. Buy Now.
That's good to know! Thanks for the info. I'm going to wear the Cougars out then replace them with dedicated tubeless tyres and loose the tubes.
Hi! I bought an E-ST 900 in December but I just started using it because of the weather. Everything is fine, except I also have a noisy rear brake (when cornering at 20+ km/h). What is the correct way to fix? Is this just a simple brake setting (what I will learn on YT ) ? Or should something be replaced in the store?
) ? Or should something be replaced in the store?
Last edited:
Thanks! I've checked the rear axle screw. The torque wrench was clicking at ~20nm. So I think it was good, maybe a simple brake adjustment is also needed. I will try it.
So... mission failed:
I tried to tighten the axle with a Beta torque wrench two times (don’t ask why, I was just unsure). The second attempt was not tolerated by the axle screw. I think it's my fault, but be careful if you want to tighten it, this screw is very weak.
Now I'm going to search a qualty one. If there is any 12x148mm thru axle you would recommend, I would appreciate it.
I tried to tighten the axle with a Beta torque wrench two times (don’t ask why, I was just unsure). The second attempt was not tolerated by the axle screw. I think it's my fault, but be careful if you want to tighten it, this screw is very weak.
Now I'm going to search a qualty one. If there is any 12x148mm thru axle you would recommend, I would appreciate it.
Last edited:
Although Decathlon might suggest to tighten it up to 20Nm, it only states 10nm on the axle itself. When buying a new one, I would err on the side of caution and go with the recommended setting.
Link below shows a similar sized axle that will go to 13.5Nm :
SRAM Maxle Stealth MTB Thru-Axle Rear 12x148mm 171,5mm black | Bikester.co.uk
The SRAM Maxle Stealth MTB Thru-Axle Rear 12x148mm 171,5mm black at Bikester.co.uk ✓ Biking specialists in the UK ✓ Buy online with free returns ✓ Easy shipping ✓ Great prices with the best service ✓ Find what you need with Bikester.co.uk ✓
www.bikester.co.uk
I built an engine for a Hill Sprint car last winter and over-torqued the head bolts due to my own error of having a page open for a 1975 year head instead of the later model on the injection heads. Went back to it the next day to do the final stage setting after 24hrs and immediately realised my mistake. Even though they would probably have been ok, I pulled them all back out and replaced with 8 new bolts at about £50.
Similar threads
EMTB Forums
Latest articles
-
Santa Cruz Vala X0 review - a new approach to perfection?
The new Vala is Santa Cruz’ first attempt on a Bosch-powered emtb. Like... -
A new standard for charging ebikes is coming? A quick interview with Bosch - charge2bike
I had a quick chat with dr Vikram Godbole about "charge2bike", a new...- Knut Nes
- 2 min read
- Views: 613
- Reaction score: 6
- Comments: 3