Levo Gen 3 Best coil shock - Poll

Out of these three, which is the best coil shock for 2022 Gen3 turbo levo?

  • Rockshox 2023 Super Deluxe with HBO

    Votes: 17 17.9%
  • Ohlins TTX22M.2

    Votes: 30 31.6%
  • EXT e-Storia

    Votes: 48 50.5%

  • Total voters
    95

irie

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Subscriber
May 2, 2022
2,752
2,828
Chichester, W.Sussex, UK
The tftuned calculator gave me a spring rate of 328 (yes I’m light) using the 28% sag setting. I did 350 since that’s as low as I saw from MRP. It works fine for me.

I’m currently running maybe 25% or a tiny bit less. I might increase the sag but it still feels fine as is
I have Ohlins TTx22m.2 which is dead easy to change the sag on the trail. Got it feeling nice then measured the sag when I got home. Also about 25% but not going to change it. Works great with Rockshox Zeb A2 forks.
 

Henrik

Member
Oct 25, 2022
89
94
Germany
I would go for a 550 spring. I weight 84 KG with gear and have 26-27% sag. The RS Coil needs a softer spring then other coil shocks. With the 450 spring I had 30% Sag.

IMG_0755.jpeg
 
I recently fitted a RS coil shock on my bike. I found that the MRP spring rate calculator gave me the best results. Better (more precise) than Tftuned in my opinion. My desired sag (25%) was spot on.

Mountain Bike Spring Rate Calculator

When choosing a spring rate for your desired sag, getting the correct L/M/H factory tune for the shock is also essential. @Dave_B Have you determined what is the appropriate Compression and Rebound tune needed for your bike?
 
Last edited:

Tooks

Well-known member
Subscriber
Mar 29, 2020
492
580
Lincs UK
What’s that thing on your shock and where did you get it?
Looks like one of these?

Measures sag and the travel you’re using.

 

Paulquattro

E*POWAH Elite
May 7, 2020
2,353
1,302
The Darkside
I have Ohlins TTx22m.2 which is dead easy to change the sag on the trail.
Hi
Just a quick note
You cant change the sag on the trail as such unless you have adjustable sprindex spring or a bag full of different rate springs
I think your adjusting the preload which when wound up past the recommended 2-5 turns in most cases just ruins the small bump compliance which coils are best at it doesn't increase the sag as such only the amount it takes to start compression
Once you have preloaded the spring at around 2 turns of preload the sag then is controlled by the spring rate so if you want more sag get a less poundage spring and vise versa

I know many will jump on this and say preload does effect sag which it can but it shouldn't be used to set it up properly only the spring poundage should much like decreasing or increasing air in an air shock

This wasn't a dig by the way just a little info for you to digest or ignore (y)
 

Henrik

Member
Oct 25, 2022
89
94
Germany
Looks like one of these?

Measures sag and the travel you’re using.

Looks like one of these?

Measures sag and the travel you’re using.

Jep, thats the Reverse Tool. Its very nice for checking how much travel you use in a ride. Had many situations where my thoughts in how much travel I used was wrong in both ways.
 

irie

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Subscriber
May 2, 2022
2,752
2,828
Chichester, W.Sussex, UK
Hi
Just a quick note
You cant change the sag on the trail as such unless you have adjustable sprindex spring or a bag full of different rate springs
I think your adjusting the preload which when wound up past the recommended 2-5 turns in most cases just ruins the small bump compliance which coils are best at it doesn't increase the sag as such only the amount it takes to start compression
Once you have preloaded the spring at around 2 turns of preload the sag then is controlled by the spring rate so if you want more sag get a less poundage spring and vise versa

I know many will jump on this and say preload does effect sag which it can but it shouldn't be used to set it up properly only the spring poundage should much like decreasing or increasing air in an air shock

This wasn't a dig by the way just a little info for you to digest or ignore (y)
With the correct spring, as you say preload can be adjusted to change sag, thanks for confirming this. But up to 5 turns is too much (IMO).
 

pontoon

Member
Apr 24, 2023
63
21
USA
With the correct spring, as you say preload can be adjusted to change sag, thanks for confirming this. But up to 5 turns is too much (IMO).
I set mine to 3 turns and was at 20%, 2 turns between 20-25%, but that was 3 turns off the bike. I think I probably should have set the turns with the shock on the bike. So I’m probably running too much preload, and probably do have the right spring. I’m pretty happy with the TFTuned calculator
 

pontoon

Member
Apr 24, 2023
63
21
USA
This will help your understanding of preload (and how it can go wrong):

Preload explainer (Tuesday Tune)
I actually don’t think he has a very good take on preload/spring rate/sag.

It’s almost like he’s recommending to pick whatever spring lets you run almost no preload. First problem with this is he’s suggesting to run less than what the rockshox manual specifies. I wouldn’t really advise disregarding the manual on minimum preload. Especially since coils are already so much softer than air shocks to begin their travel, and because a little initial force helps resist the suspension from moving when pedaling when the shock isn’t locked out but the rider is still climbing.

Also he seems to minimize the importance of sag. Sag is by far one of the most crucial suspension adjustments available. It has a huge effect on traction and cornering. I prioritize sag first, while ensuring I don’t have excessive preload.

I’m also not convinced of his take that the rider can just compensate for bike imbalances by adjusting their riding position. I’d rather have a balanced bike with more than a half turn preload than need to ride way over the bars and deal with an under steering bike.

Like everything imo it’s about balance, but mostly about sag 🙂

That said, I wouldn’t hesitate to try multiple spring rates. I’ve tried 3 sprint rates on my dirt bikes so far. I ended up settling on the softest one, which btw doesn’t result in the least preload, but gives me what I want.
 
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InRustWeTrust

E*POWAH Master
Mar 9, 2020
523
759
Sweden
No fox dhx2 ? , i have it and had no problem with it so far.

I really love the feel of it and how it sticks the bike to the ground.
 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,473
1,600
Newquay
Fox DHX2 is not recommended due to it breaking (several users have experienced this). I also think it voids the frame warranty?

The RS has a specific mode for the Levo and Kenevo with a steel shaft.
 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,473
1,600
Newquay
Ordered the RS SD (RS00.4118.359.048) which is the steel shaft version.
Also ordered a 550 and 525 spring.

Have requested they fit the spring they think is correct and to ship the other one so I have an option to experiment with.
 

Ou812

Well-known member
Jun 26, 2022
779
533
Inverness
Ordered the RS SD (RS00.4118.359.048) which is the steel shaft version.
Also ordered a 550 and 525 spring.

Have requested they fit the spring they think is correct and to ship the other one so I have an option to experiment with.
Where did you find it in stock? I’ve been looking for one but it seems J-Tech is the only ones with it in stock but they only sell it with their piston upgrade.
 

Ou812

Well-known member
Jun 26, 2022
779
533
Inverness


Note they have a Levo specific option
Oh…that’s the stock size shock, for some reason I was thinking you were looking for the 230x65. That’s what I need and can’t find one, I’m probably just going to order another EXT from Mojo. I wanted to try the RS but if I buy it from J-tech with their piston and 2 springs it’s damn near as much as the EXT.
 

Dave_B

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Aug 29, 2020
1,473
1,600
Newquay
And for those interested, I chose the RS because…….

1. I’m a weekend warrior and probably can’t tell the different between RS and the others.

2. It has hydraulic bottom out (Ohlins does not)

3. EXT makes a squishy sound = would drive me nuts.

4. I have a Zeb so I’m matchy matchy front and rear

5. springs are cheap so not an expensive spring swap if needed

6. Overall price
 

Alexbn921

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2021
545
512
East Bay CA
I actually don’t think he has a very good take on preload/spring rate/sag.

It’s almost like he’s recommending to pick whatever spring lets you run almost no preload. First problem with this is he’s suggesting to run less than what the rockshox manual specifies. I wouldn’t really advise disregarding the manual on minimum preload. Especially since coils are already so much softer than air shocks to begin their travel, and because a little initial force helps resist the suspension from moving when pedaling when the shock isn’t locked out but the rider is still climbing.

Also he seems to minimize the importance of sag. Sag is by far one of the most crucial suspension adjustments available. It has a huge effect on traction and cornering. I prioritize sag first, while ensuring I don’t have excessive preload.

I’m also not convinced of his take that the rider can just compensate for bike imbalances by adjusting their riding position. I’d rather have a balanced bike with more than a half turn preload than need to ride way over the bars and deal with an under steering bike.

Like everything imo it’s about balance, but mostly about sag 🙂

That said, I wouldn’t hesitate to try multiple spring rates. I’ve tried 3 sprint rates on my dirt bikes so far. I ended up settling on the softest one, which btw doesn’t result in the least preload, but gives me what I want.

You SHOULD run a spring that requires almost no preload. Preload only comes into play when the suspension fully extends or comes off the ground. Having any preload adds harshness as you have to overcome this force and it it transmitted directly to you. It also happens much more than you thing it does, for example braking bumps tend to skip the wheel and each hit is harsher. You only want just barley enough preload that the spring doesn't rattle and NO MORE.

Pre load has ZERO effect on pedaling performance. You always sit at the "same" spring rate regardless you the preload or spring you use. Your weight is the same and you simply settle into the leverage ratio x spring rate + preload = rider+bike.

Sag isn't that important. The range of sag's that work is quite big and one of the least important "settings". How you measure sag has a large range too.

Balance is key. Damping can compensate for spring rate and adjust the feel. Soft spring + lots of damping = firm spring and low damping on travel used.

Edit
As a side note, it's my belief that bottoming out is the #1 reason people are breaking shocks on the Levo/Kenevo bikes. The Kenevo's came way under sprung. The bearings are the main reason bikes are wearing out shocks. There is a significant difference in a quality NSK or NTN bearing vs the stock crap. Side loading the bike by leaning it over and stepping on the pedal has about half the deflection after swapping out the bearings. It also feels way tighter and smoother while riding.
 
Last edited:

pontoon

Member
Apr 24, 2023
63
21
USA
Yep…for the cascade long shock kit. This whole time I’ve been looking at this thread I was thinking that’s what you were doing. I have the cascade kit in the box, just need to buy the shock.
+1 to the cascade link. It makes sense to me as it makes the linkage more progressive. The original linkage was designed for an air shock, which has more natural progression so needs less from the linkage.
 

pontoon

Member
Apr 24, 2023
63
21
USA
You SHOULD run a spring that requires almost no preload. Preload only comes into play when the suspension fully extends or comes off the ground. Having any preload adds harshness as you have to overcome this force and it it transmitted directly to you. It also happens much more than you thing it does, for example braking bumps tend to skip the wheel and each hit is harsher. You only want just barley enough preload that the spring doesn't rattle and NO MORE.

Pre load has ZERO effect on pedaling performance. You always sit at the "same" spring rate regardless you the preload or spring you use. Your weight is the same and you simply settle into the leverage ratio x spring rate + preload = rider+bike.

Sag isn't that important. The range of sag's that work is quite big and one of the least important "settings". How you measure sag has a large range too.

Balance is key. Damping can compensate for spring rate and adjust the feel. Soft spring + lots of damping = firm spring and low damping on travel used.

Edit
As a side note, it's my belief that bottoming out is the #1 reason people are breaking shocks on the Levo/Kenevo bikes. The Kenevo's came way under sprung. The bearings are the main reason bikes are wearing out shocks. There is a significant difference in a quality NSK or NTN bearing vs the stock crap. Side loading the bike by leaning it over and stepping on the pedal has about half the deflection after swapping out the bearings. It also feels way tighter and smoother while riding.

I’m not going to respond piece by piece to this but for anyone reading his replies, there are some factual errors in here, so I recommend fact checking before regurgitating this info.
 

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