Anyone change the stem or bars to get their hands a bit higher?

GrantMeThePower

New Member
Feb 1, 2021
77
49
USA
I'm really trying to nail down my position on the bike and when I have the saddle in the perfect position for pedaling (i.e. top of the dropper, knee to pedal line, right height, saddle level (and tried a couple degrees back also), etc) I find that it puts too much pressure on my hands and I get a lot of numbness in my thumb and index finger. It feels that my hands are simply a little too low. I also feel my lower back is overly hunched.

I'm debating whether a stem or handlebar change would be a good idea. My concern is on very steep climbs, allowing the front wheel to pop up more-i already find it to sometimes be an issue (though it is more often because I am pulling a bit on the bars to pedal harder-so technique rather than position)

The numbness happens really anytime I am pedaling because of the weight, whether it is flat or slightly inclined. If I lower the seat a bit I get cramped and my legs don't extend and I lose power.

Thanks for any guidance on best ideas!
 

steve_sordy

Wedding Crasher
Nov 5, 2018
8,945
9,293
Lincolnshire, UK
Try moving your bar furniture inwards a bit to mimic a narrower bar. This will make you sit a bit more upright. If it works for you and you are happy with the reduced leverage over the rough stuff, then shorten the bars.
Or you could buy a bar with a higher rise, I've seen them go up to 40mm.
 

Third-Reef

Active member
Apr 1, 2021
96
133
95946
I put OneUp 35mm Carbon bars on with the 35mm rise. They also have some flex built in to help save your hands. You will need a new stem fitting as the stock Rail 9.7 has 31.7? bars

OneUp Bars.jpg
 

GrantMeThePower

New Member
Feb 1, 2021
77
49
USA
Try moving your bar furniture inwards a bit to mimic a narrower bar. This will make you sit a bit more upright. If it works for you and you are happy with the reduced leverage over the rough stuff, then shorten the bars.
Or you could buy a bar with a higher rise, I've seen them go up to 40mm.

Thanks for the reply! My concern about sitting more upright is that it puts even more weight on my hands. I sort of
I put OneUp 35mm Carbon bars on with the 35mm rise. They also have some flex built in to help save your hands. You will need a new stem fitting as the stock Rail 9.7 has 31.7? bars

View attachment 58456

Yes, you’re correct. The 7 has the smaller 31.8mm stem so if I went with a 35 I’d have to change the stem also.

How do you like the 20mm change in rise on the bars? How did it change the feel for you? (Other than the dampening of the carbon)

thanks!!
 

GrantMeThePower

New Member
Feb 1, 2021
77
49
USA
You can also drop your post a bit on super-steep climbs to bring you CoG closer to the front wheel.

You’re right, that works too. I’ve been doing that when it gets really steep anyway but the part that gets my hands the most is more like long flattish/small incline sections where I am just wanting to cruise at the top of my seat height and it’s too much weight on my hands.
 

04fuxake

Active member
Feb 12, 2018
321
205
Porirua, NZ
You’re right, that works too. I’ve been doing that when it gets really steep anyway but the part that gets my hands the most is more like long flattish/small incline sections where I am just wanting to cruise at the top of my seat height and it’s too much weight on my hands.
Yeah I get the same when I'm riding the flat to and from my trails.
 

Third-Reef

Active member
Apr 1, 2021
96
133
95946
I find that sitting more upright tares the weight off my hands. Watched a video on handlebars, they said lower flatter for climbing (weight forward) and higher for descending
 

GrandesRoues

Member
Jul 26, 2019
176
89
Alpes Françaises
I like to use the "firm" low speed compression lever position on the shock to prevent rear sag for steep climbs.
A saddle with a dropped nose (like an SMP) help to really bring the hips to the front to load the front.
You could also increase the travel of the fork, to get the bar higher (and reach a bit shorter)
 

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