All New 2023 Orbea Wild

[Ruebi]

HI All, Looking at a H10 wild. Very very hard to seem them in person here, so a couple of questions, id like to raise the height of the stem a bit, out of the factory is there any room to put spacers under the stem that maybe were sitting on top?
Is there much length on the riser and how difficult was it to change the stem? Thinking a smaller stack stem can sit higher with some high rise bars and maybe a 35MM length .
Any details or pictures would be helpful to see if i can do what i need. HOw do the cables route through the headset area if i do change stems?
last question is on brakes, in my country they tend to restrict customizations if there is stock of the default bike in stock, wanted to upgrade the brakes to XT from the 6120 standard . and the stem from 40MM to 35MM. Ive been told that to change the brakes is significant due to the motor needing to drop? correct or not, .. we are talking 2x or 3x the cost if dropping motor needed and with no ability to customise the bike from the factory its a big added cost to account for.

ok any help is greately appreciated

thanks

1) On my bike there is 30mm of space under the stem. Edit: It came with 30mm spacers.

2) Changing the height of the Orbea stem with the Orbea spacers is easy since they are split in two parts.

However if you want a „Non-Orbea“ stem you have to buy the universal SIC top cap from Orbea like on the picture below. But you lose the spin block function. Installing is easy but a bit fiddly because you need to disconnect/bleed the rear brake, remove the shift/dropper cables from the remotes and route everything through the universal adapter.

3) Just let the brake line of the 6120 in the frame and install the 8120 XT caliper/lever. The hoses might be the same but you should check that. If they are not you could use the Rock Shox Reverb Barb connector, connect the old and the new brake line and pull the old line with the connected new line through the frame.

 

[mrhaboobi]

1) On my bike there is 30mm of space under the stem.

2) Changing the height of the Orbea stem with the Orbea spacers is easy since they are split in two parts.

However if you want a „Non-Orbea“ stem you have to buy the universal SIC top cap from Orbea like on the picture below. But you lose the spin block function. Installing is easy but a bit fiddly because you need the disconnect/bleed the rear brake, remove the shift/dropper cables from the remotes and route everything in the universal adapter.

View attachment 134282

3) Just let the brake line of the 6120 in the frame and install the 8120 XT caliper/lever. The hoses might be the same but you should check that.

Thank you that's a perfect picture. so you have 30MM under and what looks like at least 10MM above? so could in theory get 40MM under and lift that stem up higher. In terms of re routing all the cables i assume i can do that at the cockpit end ( eg disconnect from shifter or dropper and feed through to the headset back to the front? Thanks for that picture, super helpful!

 

[Ruebi]

Thank you that's a perfect picture. so you have 30MM under and what looks like at least 10MM above? so could in theory get 40MM under and lift that stem up higher. In terms of re routing all the cables i assume i can do that at the cockpit end ( eg disconnect from shifter or dropper and feed through to the headset back to the front? Thanks for that picture, super helpful!

It came with 30mm spacers but I changed it to 10mm above/20mm under.

Regarding rerouting…yes. Shifter cable is easy, dropper cable has to be cut at the remote.

 

[mrhaboobi]

It came with 30mm spacers but I changed it to 10mm above/20mm under.

Regarding rerouting…yes. Shifter cable is easy, dropper cable has to be cut at the remote.

Sweet thank you.

One last general question. Im 181 cm tall, apparently an ape index of +1 .. dodgy back. Ride a trek slash 2022 size large, ( probably need a M/L ) I feel like my reach ideal is around 465-470 ish. I'm really between sizes i think; Anyone similar height riding a Medium or a large and what's you thoughts, i was thinking change the 40MM stem to a 35, high rise 35MM bar. maybe would make the large good, the reach on the medium looks a touch short really.

 

[Ruebi]

Sweet thank you.

One last general question. Im 181 cm tall, apparently an ape index of +1 .. dodgy back. Ride a trek slash 2022 size large, ( probably need a M/L ) I feel like my reach ideal is around 465-470 ish. I'm really between sizes i think; Anyone similar height riding a Medium or a large and what's you thoughts, i was thinking change the 40MM stem to a 35, high rise 35MM bar. maybe would make the large good, the reach on the medium looks a touch short really.

Since you ride with lots of spacers keep in mind that the reach will reduce by every spacer. 10mm spacer is ~4mm less reach. With 30mm of spacers you get ~468mm „real“ reach on the L frame.

I‘m 183cm and I ride L and it fits perfectly with a 50mm stem and 35mm rise bar. But I could easily ride XL since the bike doesn‘t feel that long.

 

[VWsurfbum]

HI All, Looking at a H10 wild. Very very hard to seem them in person here, so a couple of questions, id like to raise the height of the stem a bit, out of the factory is there any room to put spacers under the stem that maybe were sitting on top?
Is there much length on the riser and how difficult was it to change the stem? Thinking a smaller stack stem can sit higher with some high rise bars and maybe a 35MM length .
Any details or pictures would be helpful to see if i can do what i need. HOw do the cables route through the headset area if i do change stems?
last question is on brakes, in my country they tend to restrict customizations if there is stock of the default bike in stock, wanted to upgrade the brakes to XT from the 6120 standard . and the stem from 40MM to 35MM. Ive been told that to change the brakes is significant due to the motor needing to drop? correct or not, .. we are talking 2x or 3x the cost if dropping motor needed and with no ability to customise the bike from the factory its a big added cost to account for.

ok any help is greately appreciated

thanks

Brakes, simple, just swap the ends (caliper and lever swap, keeping hose in place)
Mine came with 35mm stem and 3 spacers below, none on top.

 

[Bigmike]

HI All, Looking at a H10 wild. Very very hard to seem them in person here, so a couple of questions, id like to raise the height of the stem a bit, out of the factory is there any room to put spacers under the stem that maybe were sitting on top?
Is there much length on the riser and how difficult was it to change the stem? Thinking a smaller stack stem can sit higher with some high rise bars and maybe a 35MM length .
Any details or pictures would be helpful to see if i can do what i need. HOw do the cables route through the headset area if i do change stems?
last question is on brakes, in my country they tend to restrict customizations if there is stock of the default bike in stock, wanted to upgrade the brakes to XT from the 6120 standard . and the stem from 40MM to 35MM. Ive been told that to change the brakes is significant due to the motor needing to drop? correct or not, .. we are talking 2x or 3x the cost if dropping motor needed and with no ability to customise the bike from the factory its a big added cost to account for.

ok any help is greately appreciated

thanks

There's a slight drop on the standard stem say 5mm along with a spacer on top when I received the bike if you order from orbea direct you can change it to xt brakes

 

[Ruebi]

Btw...since I broke my motorcover for the second time, I bought a Rockguardz carbon protector. I can highly recommend this thing. Fits perfectly and tight.

The original one seems to made out of sugar.

 

[VWsurfbum]

Hi all, I wanted to shorten the dropper cable as it sticks out past the bars and it annoys me, so I took the lever off and started to try and pull through the cable from the seat post end. It really doesn't move very much, has anyone taken their post out? seems like it's stiff past the battery/motor, last thing I want to have to do is drop the motor, just to take a few MM off a cable. (and if I have the post out, it would be rude not to upgrade the seat clamp, what size is it?)

View attachment 133511

So remember this post? Well.........
Last night while fitting the AXS rear mech I thought i'd shorten the overly long dropper cable.
Remember the post where i said it wouldnt feed through, and release the inner cable from the leaver. well that worked to get the post out etc, BUT........ as soon as i chopped the cable (measure twice cut once) I had to try and feed the wet spagetti inner cable back down a hose that was sitting at the bottom of the seat tube.
Needless to say, that didnt happen. I then had to fanny about, took the motor cover off, no that wouldnt work, so had to go the full hog and drop the motor. Easy enough but trying to look in from the top, feed in from the bottom, not drop the motor while keeping the poxxy little cable from dropping out the post.....................Much swearing was used i can tell you.

on another note, how much crap is collected by the motor cover! it was absolutely full!

 

[calnearlyebike]

Rockshox 35 fork on a £7k bike !!! Madness

I had that fork . So shit

 

[batmantis]

Hi all. Just received my m10 2023 wild yesterday. Have a couple of questions...

Is it possible to install an EDC tool in the stock stem or would I need to change the stem out, using the adapter kit, with a more traditional stem?

For converting to tubeless, what size stems do I need? I assume I need some longer ones due to the Bosch sensor on the rear wheel?

 

[VWsurfbum]

Hi all. Just received my m10 2023 wild yesterday. Have a couple of questions...

Is it possible to install an EDC tool in the stock stem or would I need to change the stem out, using the adapter kit, with a more traditional stem?

For converting to tubeless, what size stems do I need? I assume I need some longer ones due to the Bosch sensor on the rear wheel?

Stem cap is normal over the spacer, so you'll be fine.
B'stard long valves for the rear wheel, which i didnt order so have mismatching ones

 

[kntr]

Btw...since I broke my motorcover for the second time, I bought a Rockguardz carbon protector. I can highly recommend this thing. Fits perfectly and tight.

The original one seems to made out of sugar.

View attachment 134303

The Rockgaurdz won't last either. I broke mine after 2-3 rides. Get the Amygos guard. They are definitely worth the money.

 

[davosaurusrex]

The Amygos one definitely looks the most protective but boy they are ugly, IMO. I went for the Rockstop

 

[Pura Vida]

Eine kurze Fortsetzung zu meinem Mini-Rant:
Ich habe gerade eine Nachricht von dem Geschäft erhalten, in dem ich das Fahrrad gekauft habe, dass mir die richtigen XT-Teile geschickt wurden.

Bilder, um etwas Farbe hinzuzufügen:
View attachment 114327 View attachment 114328

A quick follow-up to my mini-rant:
Just got a message from the store where I bought the bike that they have sent me the correct XT-parts.

Pics to add some color:
View attachment 114327 View attachment 114328

Hi can you please tell me which color that is? I like this color

 

[paal]

Hi can you please tell me which color that is? I like this color

Hi.
It's mouse grey in matte finish.

 

[Pura Vida]

A quick follow-up to my mini-rant:
Just got a message from the store where I bought the bike that they have sent me the correct XT-parts.

Pics to add some color:
View attachment 114327 View attachment 114328

Hi.
It's mouse grey in matte finish.

View attachment 134833

View attachment 134834

Ok thank you for the Answer. On the Orbea Myo Configurator the mouse grey matte color looks a little bit darker, you know if they have change the mouse grey from 2023 to 2024 on the myo configurator?

 

[paal]

Ok thank you for the Answer. On the Orbea Myo Configurator the mouse grey matte color looks a little bit darker, you know if they have change the mouse grey from 2023 to 2024 on the myo configurator?

Sorry, I don't know. My guess is they would have changed the name if they changed the color.

If it helps, this is how my preview looked when I ordered it:

 

[Pura Vida]

Ok thank you very much, you help me a lot

 

[Abildgaard]

Anyone running t-type on a 23 that have mangaged to fit a decent chainguide. With the original guide and spacers the chain rubs the guide and even if i change the original spacers with a bunch of washers i can't get it 100% "rub-free"
Btw. the plastic shield is shi..

 

[Durrti]

Anyone running t-type on a 23 that have mangaged to fit a decent chainguide. With the original guide and spacers the chain rubs the guide and even if i change the original spacers with a bunch of washers i can't get it 100% "rub-free"
Btw. the plastic shield is shi..
View attachment 135041

Supposedly you don’t need a guide with that chainring. I however went back to the original 34 tooth that came on the bike as the 36 rubbed the chain stay.
No issues 500ish miles.

 

[Abildgaard]

Supposedly you don’t need a guide with that chainring. I however went back to the original 34 tooth that came on the bike as the 36 rubbed the chain stay.
No issues 500ish miles.

But you can't run that with t-type chain?
Well i found a chainguide from Shimano in my stash that can be ajusted sideways and it fits fine with 36T T-type chainring.

 

[Durrti]

But you can't run that with t-type chain?
Well i found a chainguide from Shimano in my stash that can be ajusted sideways and it fits fine with 36T T-type chainring.

View attachment 135086

The e-thirteen website didn’t mention chain type for the oem ring. It’s working
Check your clearance between the 36t ring and your chain stay with the bike unsprung. Mine left a nasty notch in the frame

 

[Abildgaard]

What have you done to protect the motor shield? I think the original breaks very easy and i'm therefore considering mounting this one from AVS, anyone have experience with it or have a better solution?

 

[kntr]

What have you done to protect the motor shield? I think the original breaks very easy and i'm therefore considering mounting this one from AVS, anyone have experience with it or have a better solution?
View attachment 135184

The Amygos cover is so nice. It protects so much more than any other cover.

 

[Abildgaard]

The Amygos cover is so nice. It protects so much more than any other cover.

I think it may offer good protection but it's not very good looking...

 

[davosaurusrex]

Looks like something you'd get from the NHS in the 1980s

 

[kntr]

Looks like something you'd get from the NHS in the 1980s

works awesome though

 

[Abildgaard]

I guess every bike have some sort of design error where you think " What where the designer smoking drawing this solution" Well I might be the only one struggeling with the charging port on the Wild H10 2023 and if so I apologise but i really hate how it works. I get that it's visually good looking but it keeps getting stucked where it requires a decent amount of force to pull it out with the risk of breaking it and with the extender comming in shortly it will get even more exposed to dirt. I have tried with silicone spay, grease, carbon spay ect. but have'nt found any good solution yet.
Anyone figured a good solution out yet or is it just what it is?

 

[kombos]

I guess every bike have some sort of design error where you think " What where the designer smoking drawing this solution" Well I might be the only one struggeling with the charging port on the Wild H10 2023 and if so I apologise but i really hate how it works. I get that it's visually good looking but it keeps getting stucked where it requires a decent amount of force to pull it out with the risk of breaking it and with the extender comming in shortly it will get even more exposed to dirt. I have tried with silicone spay, grease, carbon spay ect. but have'nt found any good solution yet.
Anyone figured a good solution out yet or is it just what it is?
View attachment 135563

Small shot of dry lube on the plastic shaft made it much easier to pull out on mine.