All New 2023 Orbea Wild

DrDexx

New Member
Mar 2, 2024
28
22
Longridge
Is anyone a using a 220mm rear rotor/disc on the wild?

Installed one to my alloy Wild via a centre lock adapter and it too close to the frame. Unsure if it's the use of a center lock adapter or not.
They are slightly thicker 2.3mm discs, so that doesn't help either.
 

RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
Is anyone a using a 220mm rear rotor/disc on the wild?

Installed one to my alloy Wild via a centre lock adapter and it too close to the frame. Unsure if it's the use of a center lock adapter or not.
They are slightly thicker 2.3mm discs, so that doesn't help either.
Yes I’m using SRAM HS2 220 on my Wild without problems - it is IS tho….

IMG_4508.jpeg
 

RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
Hey guys,

I’m wondering if anyone else here experiences major rattle from motor area in their Wild? I was under impression that Bosch is supposed to be quieter yet it rattles just as much as Shimano that I had in my Bullit…
 

maurocif

Member
Nov 3, 2020
29
34
Rome
Hey guys,

I’m wondering if anyone else here experiences major rattle from motor area in their Wild? I was under impression that Bosch is supposed to be quieter yet it rattles just as much as Shimano that I had in my Bullit…
My Wild rattles from motor area if not pedalling during technical descents, when I get the sharpest and deepest holes. It's the only negative feature of this wonderful emtb.
 

RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
Is anyone running 200 mm rotors? I’ve just tried to fit one and seems that frame has 203 pm rear mount. This has to be one of the most annoying aspects of this bike. Basically you cannot run SRAM rear break without going for 220 rotors (correct me if I’m wrong).

IMG_4926.jpeg
 

mtrain1969

New Member
Feb 20, 2024
15
11
PNW, USA
Like many on here, I have 100 miles on my Wild H10 and have cracked two motor covers. I wrote Orbea about my concern and their surprising response directed me to a aftermarket protector. Doesn't seem like they are very receptive to solving the problem.
On a separate issue...I was noticing a lot of noise coming from the motor area. After checking all of my bolts and doing some tapping around I noticed that on the aluminum frame they didn't put any adhesive on the chain stay protector between the screws. This caused the protector to slap against the frame when the chain hit it. A couple zip ties proved my theory. I'll go back and do a more permanent fix. Just a FYI to those chasing down annoying rattles.

View attachment 139131
I had a similar issue and I ended up putting some 3m VHB tape in between the frame and chainguard.
 

RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
Turns out rattle from motor area was caused by loose motor skid plate mounts. Obviously there is still normal Bosch rattle but nothing to obnoxious and much quieter than Shimano. However I don’t recommend SRAM Mavens due to floating bite point and noticeable lever pump. Tried procedure that SRAM mentions in their guide but it didn’t work for me.
 

Schlayer88

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
16
7
Maple Ridge
I have the orbea wild 2023 team modified to xtr disc, fox 38, kios 300 and 750 watt battery. It is a remarkably smooth ride with nice power supply when rpm greater than 65-70.
This is the best bike I have owned, previously orbea rise m 20, pivot mach 4 and turner 5 spot.
I weigh 165# and 5'10" riding medium cosmic carbon.
My only concerns were several issues with build and orbea is non responsive in customer service.
Dropper post cable was crushed. Scratched to alu on stem, seat post insert scratched, non functional battery switching on and off due to cable routing malposition hitting battery on/off switch.
The finish of the bike looks wrong to me but no response from orbea.

A great ride x 3 now but I would not buy from orbea again based on service.
Avoid orbea.
Hey, where is the battery switch located?

I have a brand new wild, never ridden.

Won’t turn on

I pushed a new rear brake cable through

Maybe my cable is also hitting the on/off switch ?
 

Polar

Active member
Jun 16, 2023
400
493
Norway
Sounds like many Orbea owners are dissatisfied with the support they get from the company which is the most important aspect when spending a lot of money on a bike.
 

RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
Any specific reason for 220 back since SRAM don't recommend it?
SRAM never said that they don’t recommend 220 on rear. I’m running 220 because it’s free power and it works perfect with Mavens. I would argue that there is no reason for going for the smaller back rotor.
 

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,526
5,004
Weymouth
SRAM never said that they don’t recommend 220 on rear. I’m running 220 because it’s free power and it works perfect with Mavens. I would argue that there is no reason for going for the smaller back rotor.
the friction area between pad and rotor is exactly the same so no extra power............just increased heat dispersal which is of course helpful if you do long ( e.g Alpine ) descents.
 

Bigmike

Member
Dec 4, 2021
33
37
Cornwall
the friction area between pad and rotor is exactly the same so no extra power............just increased heat dispersal which is of course helpful if you do long ( e.g Alpine ) descents.
Larger discs(rotors) have more leverage hence more braking power. It's like getting a 3 foot breaker bar to undo wheel nuts rather than a 1 foot one simple leverage.
Another example is fitting the same size discs to 29 or 27.5 or 26 or 24 and so on the smaller wheel with the same size disc will be far more powerful than the 29
 

Mikerb

E*POWAH Elite World Champion
May 16, 2019
6,526
5,004
Weymouth
Larger discs(rotors) have more leverage hence more braking power. It's like getting a 3 foot breaker bar to undo wheel nuts rather than a 1 foot one simple leverage.
Another example is fitting the same size discs to 29 or 27.5 or 26 or 24 and so on the smaller wheel with the same size disc will be far more powerful than the 29
in which case rim brakes would be mega!!
Calliper to rotor is not a lever and there is a lot more science involved in determining the optimum sized rotor. For example a larger rotor will have more momentum..therefore more power required to stop. There is also the issue of the distance from the most rigid part of the calliper mount....the seat stay.....to the pistons, which will be greater the bigger the rotor.
 
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Bigmike

Member
Dec 4, 2021
33
37
Cornwall
Yes with the correct rim material and stiffness and suitable brake pads some motorcycles are going to a rim type setup for this reason fine until it's deep in mud say like a mountain bike

Screenshot_20240501_204942_Google.jpg
 

RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
the friction area between pad and rotor is exactly the same so no extra power............just increased heat dispersal which is of course helpful if you do long ( e.g Alpine ) descents.
You are wrong. Bigger rotor equals greater leverage hence less force required on the brake lever. Not to mention greater heat capacity. Obviously there is more to brake performance but all things equal these matter most.
 
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RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
If you decide to run a 220 rotor on the wild you’ll need a +17mm Adapter not +20. You can see in the photo that the pads are not sitting at the bottom of this rotor.
I don’t see that much of a difference between front and back rotor wear when I look on them side by side. You are not supposed to have entire rotor area covered to. I realize that this is not ideal since you don’t have full pad coverage but SRAM 17p adapter doesn’t work with Mavens.

IMG_4953.jpeg


IMG_4945.jpeg
 
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Gyre

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2021
630
422
Pasadena, CA
in which case rim brakes would be mega!!
Calliper to rotor is not a lever and there is a lot more science involved in determining the optimum sized rotor. For example a larger rotor will have more momentum..therefore more power required to stop. There is also the issue of the distance from the most rigid part of the calliper mount....the seat stay.....to the pistons, which will be greater the bigger the rotor.

Caliper to axle is a lever, as is tread to axle. The ratio matters. See below:

 

Polar

Active member
Jun 16, 2023
400
493
Norway
SRAM never said that they don’t recommend 220 on rear. I’m running 220 because it’s free power and it works perfect with Mavens. I would argue that there is no reason for going for the smaller back rotor.
SRAM do recommend smaller rotors than normal so your argument is the opposite of what SRAM is saying but cool if you are satisfied with the size.

«For every 20mm jump in rotor size, the mechanical power increase is 14%. This means that going from a 180mm rotor to a 220mm rotor would boost system power by 28%. But too big of a rotor could also lead to not enough heat being generated, and a smaller rotor where the correct amount of heat is being generated could actually have more power on the trail. Paying attention to the color of the spokes on your rotors (below the pad track) can be a tell of how your rotors are performing.

-Browned or bronzed discoloring means the size is optimal.

-Purple or rainbow discoloring means your rotors are running too hot and sizing up would be suggested.

-No distinct coloring would suggest they aren't getting hot enough and sizing down would lead to optimal performance»
 

RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
SRAM do recommend smaller rotors than normal so your argument is the opposite of what SRAM is saying but cool if you are satisfied with the size.
Yes I know that. Expert kit came with every rotor size and two pad compounds. I’ve tried various combinations and what suits me best is 220 front and rear with organic pads. In my opinion on e-bike You need as much top end power as you can get when riding steep terrain.
 
Last edited:

Bigmike

Member
Dec 4, 2021
33
37
Cornwall
SRAM do recommend smaller rotors than normal so your argument is the opposite of what SRAM is saying but cool if you are satisfied with the size.

«For every 20mm jump in rotor size, the mechanical power increase is 14%. This means that going from a 180mm rotor to a 220mm rotor would boost system power by 28%. But too big of a rotor could also lead to not enough heat being generated, and a smaller rotor where the correct amount of heat is being generated could actually have more power on the trail. Paying attention to the color of the spokes on your rotors (below the pad track) can be a tell of how your rotors are performing.

-Browned or bronzed discoloring means the size is optimal.

-Purple or rainbow discoloring means your rotors are running too hot and sizing up would be suggested.

-No distinct coloring would suggest they aren't getting hot enough and sizing down would lead to optimal performance»
Where did you find this information running brakes at that temperature 230c+ to get that golden heat colour seams a little high
 

Polar

Active member
Jun 16, 2023
400
493
Norway
Where did you find this information running brakes at that temperature 230c+ to get that golden heat colour seams a little high
At SRAM website.
Maven with oversized callipers is developed a bit different than other brakes but of course if someone prefer (mostly for the look) big rotors it's up to them.
 

RFI1337

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
26
4
Poland
At SRAM website.
Maven with oversized callipers is developed a bit different than other brakes but of course if someone prefer (mostly for the look) big rotors it's up to them.
Let me get this straight. You didn’t test both set ups back to back yet you are claiming that 220 is „for the looks”?
 

Polar

Active member
Jun 16, 2023
400
493
Norway
Let me get this straight. You didn’t test both set ups back to back yet you are claiming that 220 is „for the looks”?

Let me get this straight. You didn’t test both set ups back to back yet you are claiming that 220 is „for the looks”?
Enjoy your rotor no need to discuss with someone who knows better than the company that produce the components.
 

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