All New 2023 Orbea Wild

[VWsurfbum]

So I just purchased the PowerMore 250 external battery (live in US, had to buy from shop in Italy due to availability) along with the Orbea mounting hardware for my 2023 Wild.

Everything is due to arrive this week. Checked my Flow App and it shows the PowerMore Battery as a compatible component.

Hopefully I don't have any issues with battery being a Euro model and my bike is set up as a US.

Has anyone followed the same path or had any success with adding PowerMore 250 to a 2023 Wikd

View attachment 150814

I have a range extender, its big and heavy but works well. (well the 2 times I've actually used it) If I've burnt through my 750 battery, I'm usually knackered by then anyway lol.

It is plug and play, but I had the hardware installed at the shop, (I don't think its any different??) the mounting system is cool though and comes with a bottle cage too.

 

[Singletrackmind]

From what I've read and a video review I watched , it pulls from both at the same time. Looks like if your main battery runs completely dry, you can connect PowerMore and even ride in boost.


The cable Orbea states to use in 300mm in length. From what I can tell, might be a little longer than you need. Think 200mm would be fine.

Once I receive my range extender and connect it, will post a follow up message on compatibility and how it performs.

The Bosch PowerMore 250 arrived today from Italy and the Orbea mounting bracket from England arrived as well. Connected PowerMore to my Wild and it seems to work as hoped. The PowerMore was not recognized via Bluetooth as a connected component. You need to open Flow App and look for 2 battery icons to see if it's connected.

It came about 40% charged and I'm using same charging cable that plugs into Wild to charge the PowerMore and it works perfectly!

Going on an epic climbing ride this weekend that drained my Wild battery dry last time I rode. See no reason why I won't be able to get in many more miles.

 

[kntr]

The Bosch PowerMore 250 arrived today from Italy and the Orbea mounting bracket from England arrived as well. Connected PowerMore to my Wild and it seems to work as hoped. The PowerMore was not recognized via Bluetooth as a connected component. You need to open Flow App and look for 2 battery icons to see if it's connected.

It came about 40% charged and I'm using same charging cable that plugs into Wild to charge the PowerMore and it works perfectly!

Going on an epic climbing ride this weekend that drained my Wild battery dry last time I rode. See no reason why I won't be able to get in many more miles.

Pics!!!

 

[VWsurfbum]

Pics!!!

Literally the only 2 pictures i could see on my phone that you'd have to zoom in on to see the extender lol

 

[DrDexx]

Literally the only 2 pictures i could see on my phone that you'd have to zoom in on to see the extender lol
View attachment 150920
View attachment 150921

You just wanted to show off the fantastic shots!

 

[DrDexx]

Pics!!!

 

[VWsurfbum]

Thats better LOL

 

[Dirtstache]

I was thinking about getting the AXS Derailleur with the power cord that plugs into the motor so you don't need to keep up with charging a seperate battery, The manual says to use a 800mm cord, but I only see it offered in 780mm and 955mm, I would prefer less slack hanging around if 780mm would be long enough, but I suppose it's better to have more than needed than not enough?

Anyone else running this system in general on the wild?

 

[Jwainwri]

View attachment 150843

Thanks!
is there a model number to search for with the piggyback vertical? Most I find are sideways. Also any special mounting hardware needed?

 

[Dirtstache]

Anyone else having issues with the shifter being stiff? I my downshift is noticeably stiffer than on my other bike with the the same shifter (X01) and GX Derailleur and same issue with the stock Shimano setup it came with. I took off the motor guard so I could access the cable (but didn't drop the motor/battery) and removed the headset and got everything as free as I could also shortened the cable as much as I could to reduce any extra bends. Also put in a Jagwire "ultraslick" inner cable and it came with a Jagwire SL housing.

Not sure if there is much else I can do to remove kinks ie. drop motor and check if there is anything else I can do to help the routing, or if this is just the nature of this bike and I need to either live with it or go AXS. Just being harder to press the lever isn't a huge deal, but I think it's causing some issues not wanting to smoothly upshift in certain gears thinking the cable is being held a bit taught and overcoming the spring tension on the derallure.

 

[DrDexx]

New 2025 links are available to order on the Orbea spares site.

Obviously only the 2025 Model is listed as compatible. Anyone want to test if this is true? I'm tempted to try the alloy link for an extra 10mm of travel, but its an expensive test!

 

[Dirtstache]

View attachment 151358

New 2025 links are available to order on the Orbea spares site.

Obviously only the 2025 Model is listed as compatible. Anyone want to test if this is true? I'm tempted to try the alloy link for an extra 10mm of travel, but its an expensive test!

It's a good question, looking at the specs I don't see anything that jumps out that says it won't at least fit, seems all the hardware in terms of bolts and bearings, etc. is the same as the 23, but don't see any specific measurements on distances between mounting bolts and what not.

Seems it calls for the same size shock as the 23, so it's going to put more leverage on the same amount of shock travel which may have more of an impact on handling than just having an extra 10mm. Which I would guess is a positive impact being more supple and reactive as it takes less force on the wheel to move on the shaft, but may need to compensate to prevent hard bottoms.

My gut says it will fit, but I don't know if there are negative outcomes in terms of overall geometry. Suppose you could reach out to Orbea, but it says in the manual to take it to a dealer if you just want to swap the 25 to the mullet linkage so I doubt they will be very helpful or will most likely just say no it won't fit, buy a new bike.

 

[ficorama]

View attachment 151358

New 2025 links are available to order on the Orbea spares site.

Obviously only the 2025 Model is listed as compatible. Anyone want to test if this is true? I'm tempted to try the alloy link for an extra 10mm of travel, but its an expensive test!

the hydro link is for 29, the standard link that comes on the bike.
carbon is for mullet-27.5.

that's what they told me.

 

[Readochris]

Has anyone tried to fit the new Bosch 600w battery into a 23/24 Wild?

 

[VWsurfbum]

So I replaced the headset bearings on Monday!
Many 4 letter words were used.
Initially about the top bearing being a 1"1/2 and not the 1 1/8th that I bought (doh) why did they put the cable through the inside of the bearing I will never know, use a smaller bearing and put it through the housing/seating?
Then my F'ing god, putting the headset spacers and rubber blocks back in place, that twisted my melon for sure!

 

[kombos]

So I replaced the headset bearings on Monday!
Many 4 letter words were used.
Initially about the top bearing being a 1"1/2 and not the 1 1/8th that I bought (doh) why did they put the cable through the inside of the bearing I will never know, use a smaller bearing and put it through the housing/seating?
Then my F'ing god, putting the headset spacers and rubber blocks back in place, that twisted my melon for sure!

I think it would be easier for people that had three hands….it’s a bit of a pain….

 

[Dirtstache]

So I replaced the headset bearings on Monday!
Many 4 letter words were used.
Initially about the top bearing being a 1"1/2 and not the 1 1/8th that I bought (doh) why did they put the cable through the inside of the bearing I will never know, use a smaller bearing and put it through the housing/seating?
Then my F'ing god, putting the headset spacers and rubber blocks back in place, that twisted my melon for sure!

Biggest trick I learned anytime I'm messing with the headset is to take the front wheel off then find some sort of strap to wrap between the forks and frame to keep hold the stem in place while you work out all the spacers and rubber bits etc.

Obviously after you have dealt with the bearings or anything that requires the fork to be removed.