All New 2023 Orbea Wild

BermJunky

Member
Mar 13, 2023
50
56
Nanaimo, BC
I’m 178 cm on a large ‘23 Wild. I am happy I went with the large. My last bike had 475 reach. I felt the difference for a few rides but adapted quickly. No regrets.
Sweet thank you.

One last general question. Im 181 cm tall, apparently an ape index of +1 .. dodgy back. Ride a trek slash 2022 size large, ( probably need a M/L ) I feel like my reach ideal is around 465-470 ish. I'm really between sizes i think; Anyone similar height riding a Medium or a large and what's you thoughts, i was thinking change the 40MM stem to a 35, high rise 35MM bar. maybe would make the large good, the reach on the medium looks a touch short really.
 

davosaurusrex

E*POWAH Master
Apr 21, 2018
619
366
Worthing
Another great ride on Sunday on the steep and loose trails round here, loving the Wild. Had the chainring lockring undo though. I had heard reports of them being loose from the factory but (foolishly) hadn’t checked mine as was just about to change it. Was stamping on the pedals when it came off and I nearly got ejected, thought the chain had snapped at first. Managed to bodge it just tight enough with a multitool as a drift and a large lump of chalk hammer.

Put an XX1 T-type chainring on yesterday and found two things – the spider assembly clashes with the Orbea chainguide, also looks like you can’t use a 104BCD chainring on a spider as that would clash. Also a Nukeproof ISCG05 chainguide (probably anything other than the Orbea one) won’t fit due to the shape of the carbon moulding around the motor. That’s why the top guide is longer than standard on the Orbea one, it mounts further forward than other types so has to extend backwards.

Anyone else come across the this and any suggestions for decent quality direct mount steel chainrings? The E13 one they come with is pretty cheapo and I was getting back chainsuck in Surrey Hills slop a few weeks back, sounded like a bag of spanners in the washing machine
 

Zave

Member
Subscriber
Jul 27, 2022
41
17
Surrey England
Another great ride on Sunday on the steep and loose trails round here, loving the Wild. Had the chainring lockring undo though. I had heard reports of them being loose from the factory but (foolishly) hadn’t checked mine as was just about to change it. Was stamping on the pedals when it came off and I nearly got ejected, thought the chain had snapped at first. Managed to bodge it just tight enough with a multitool as a drift and a large lump of chalk hammer.

Put an XX1 T-type chainring on yesterday and found two things – the spider assembly clashes with the Orbea chainguide, also looks like you can’t use a 104BCD chainring on a spider as that would clash. Also a Nukeproof ISCG05 chainguide (probably anything other than the Orbea one) won’t fit due to the shape of the carbon moulding around the motor. That’s why the top guide is longer than standard on the Orbea one, it mounts further forward than other types so has to extend backwards.

Anyone else come across the this and any suggestions for decent quality direct mount steel chainrings? The E13 one they come with is pretty cheapo and I was getting back chainsuck in Surrey Hills slop a few weeks back, sounded like a bag of spanners in the washing machine
I've heard you can run it without the guide no probs
 

davosaurusrex

E*POWAH Master
Apr 21, 2018
619
366
Worthing
I have been on my local trails as they aren't rocky but have dropped chains before on similar set ups on fast rocky trails with no top guide
 

BermJunky

Member
Mar 13, 2023
50
56
Nanaimo, BC
Another great ride on Sunday on the steep and loose trails round here, loving the Wild. Had the chainring lockring undo though. I had heard reports of them being loose from the factory but (foolishly) hadn’t checked mine as was just about to change it. Was stamping on the pedals when it came off and I nearly got ejected, thought the chain had snapped at first. Managed to bodge it just tight enough with a multitool as a drift and a large lump of chalk hammer.

Put an XX1 T-type chainring on yesterday and found two things – the spider assembly clashes with the Orbea chainguide, also looks like you can’t use a 104BCD chainring on a spider as that would clash. Also a Nukeproof ISCG05 chainguide (probably anything other than the Orbea one) won’t fit due to the shape of the carbon moulding around the motor. That’s why the top guide is longer than standard on the Orbea one, it mounts further forward than other types so has to extend backwards.

Anyone else come across the this and any suggestions for decent quality direct mount steel chainrings? The E13 one they come with is pretty cheapo and I was getting back chainsuck in Surrey Hills slop a few weeks back, sounded like a bag of spanners in the washing machine
I put on e-13 Helix cranks and Bosch specific chain ring. Zero problems and looks killer.
 

Schlayer88

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
16
7
Maple Ridge
I’m running a TTX22m.2 on my ‘23 M10. Like it but it needs a retune for my weight.

Friend tried the newest HBO Super Deluxe Coil on his M10. It broke twice. Once shearing the screws that mount the reservoir. RS warranted it and told him not to run that shock on that bike. Something did not play well.
What size was his wild?

I want to run this shock but this doesn’t sound good
 

Bigmike

Member
Dec 4, 2021
33
37
Cornwall
From the blue paper

Screenshot_20240401_103349_OneDrive.jpg
 

Zoosoup

Member
May 25, 2021
6
1
Kent,UK
Hi Mike.

The mechanics can change out the batteries in about 15-20 mins (they swapped mine from 750 to 625 at the trails. I assume that they will have mechanics at the pits and be able to swap out fairly quick.
Just did mine, took me 5 mins to get it out but a bit longer to get it back in, if the cables are to long especially the dropper post then its a pain. My only concern would be how many times you are undoing and doing the engine bolts up. Was thiking of trying to get a 500w in there for racing.

500w.png
 

whitedlite

Member
Jul 12, 2022
17
7
USA
So I’ve got a new wild m20. Replacing the DB8’s seems to be almost impossible as the hose is stretching and not coming through.

I’ve since I’ve taken the fork off and removed stem spacers and cut the barb at the lever. Any tips?
 

wenna

Member
Aug 1, 2023
209
143
Sweden
So I’ve got a new wild m20. Replacing the DB8’s seems to be almost impossible as the hose is stretching and not coming through.

I’ve since I’ve taken the fork off and removed stem spacers and cut the barb at the lever. Any tips?
Flush the hose and keep it.
 

BiGJZ74

E*POWAH Master
Subscriber
Mar 17, 2021
573
444
American Canyon, CA
Switching mine out to Hope V4 as we speak. Need to drop the battery as the rear hose is wedged in there .
I wouldn’t mind trying out Hope/TRP/Hayes but sticking to what I know for now. XT m8120. I’ve ran MT7’s on a bunch a bikes but maintenance is too frequent on those plus setup with the 4 single pads are a PIA
 

davosaurusrex

E*POWAH Master
Apr 21, 2018
619
366
Worthing
Dropping and replacing the motor is easier than any other bike I've had, tolerances on my carbon are really good, slides in and out easily. I'll have one go at fishing cables through with a rockshox barb first but as soon as anything snags I just whip the motor out
 

Schlayer88

New Member
Sep 21, 2023
16
7
Maple Ridge
Recently picked up my 2023+ Wild H10! Upgraded a few things through my LBS:
  • RS Zeb Ultimate 170mm
  • Hayes Dominion A4 Brakes
  • SRAM AXS GX shifter
  • 170mm dropper
  • OneUp carbon E-bar
  • DH casing tires
  • Kiox 300 display. Not sure if I'll keep the display or not - I wish the Bosch "smart" system would connect to external devices like Wahoo/Garmin etc. I may just want a completely clean cockpit and stick my wahoo in my fanny pack (lol) View attachment 131187



I didn't realize how limited fitment for rear shocks is, but I guess It makes sense with the frame design. I had a RS SuperDeluxe coil I wanted to throw on but I read on multiple forums (including this one) that it will rub the frame. Oh well, the Float X will do for now - I'll explore that later. It's just so fun to ride already! I do enjoy the headset routing for a super clean cockpit.

View attachment 131188

The only thing I may want to upgrade soon is going to 220mm rotors + a new dropper lever to go with the matchmaker setup.
How was the install for the Hayes brakes? No issues? Did you have to drop the motor or did they slide into the existing routing?
 

nyc863

Member
Sep 4, 2023
10
1
sydney
dumb question. Tightened to 6nm my handlebars can still rotate on the stem with not crazy amount of torque and when that happens I'm immediately off.

What is the actual torque limit on those two bolts or there anything else I can do to tighten up the clamping force without cranking the bolts down way more?

the bars are pretty wide so it isn't that difficult to apply a lot of twist while the wheel is fighting the opposite way on a slope.
 

mikepal

New Member
Apr 22, 2024
3
3
Colorado, USA
Like many on here, I have 100 miles on my Wild H10 and have cracked two motor covers. I wrote Orbea about my concern and their surprising response directed me to a aftermarket protector. Doesn't seem like they are very receptive to solving the problem.
On a separate issue...I was noticing a lot of noise coming from the motor area. After checking all of my bolts and doing some tapping around I noticed that on the aluminum frame they didn't put any adhesive on the chain stay protector between the screws. This caused the protector to slap against the frame when the chain hit it. A couple zip ties proved my theory. I'll go back and do a more permanent fix. Just a FYI to those chasing down annoying rattles.

p5pb26513269.jpg
 

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