As standard yes.If I'm not talking bullshit, the Kenevo is a full 27.5" no ?
This thread is about making a 29/29 Kenevo.
Seems to work on the Gen2.
As standard yes.If I'm not talking bullshit, the Kenevo is a full 27.5" no ?
I have just ordered a new expert off the back of this thread. Iām excited to get it sorted for the trails..cheers gents..anyone got some 29ār forks for saleAnother weekend on my 29er Kenevo. I still think if this bike was released now, in 29 or mullet that it would be ranked in the top few enduro bikes out there.
Virtually silent descending, no clunk or rattle, suspension curve thats not too progressive (many new bikes are getting too progressive IMO, more harsh ride in some situations) and the Kenevo with Air Shock works so well. I still cant beat the times on my tracks with any other bike.
Hello @Rob Rides EMTB ,Another weekend on my 29er Kenevo. I still think if this bike was released now, in 29 or mullet that it would be ranked in the top few enduro bikes out there.
Virtually silent descending, no clunk or rattle, suspension curve thats not too progressive (many new bikes are getting too progressive IMO, more harsh ride in some situations) and the Kenevo with Air Shock works so well. I still cant beat the times on my tracks with any other bike.
Hi, sorry just on mobile at the moment, thatās a Levo isnāt it?Hello @Rob Rides EMTB ,
Thanks for all the insights in making Kenevo the 29ā superenduro.
Have you thought about going the opposite direction as I asked in my reply - 170/160 full 29 with progressive geo?
Looking forward for you thoughts on this subject
Hi,Hi, sorry just on mobile at the moment, thatās a Levo isnāt it?
The thing to watch out for is the forward / rear balance and how much you will change the geo with a 170 fork, and what shock would you put in? If you just go for a shorter stroke, youāre not reducing the rear height, just reducing the rear wheel travel, whilst reducing the front by 10mm, creating a steeper head angle.Hi,
Well Levo has shorter chain stays and slacker seat tube angleā¦
For me personally reasons to go for Kenevo even if the travel will be similar:
- Iām 190cm tall so longer chain stays will create better balance on S5 and offer more space to make the bike full 29 (and not fan of mulllets)
- steeper STA better for climbing with high seat on S5 with 210+ dropper
If you ever want to nerd out you can start out looking up axle to crown numbers of different forks. For example, the stock 180mm Boxxer a-c is 572mm and the axle to ground of a 27.5 wheel with a 2.6 tire is around 359mmā¦. You could add the two numbers together for 931mm But that is not the number of the ground to the lower bearing race. Your fork is not at a 90 degree angle to the ground, itās at 64 degrees so the real number is 610 mm. The slacker the head angle, the less ground to lower bearing seat Number is effected. A 180 mm 27.5 Zeb is 577 mm A-c but the g- c number is 612mm, the fork is 5mm longer than a Boxxer but there is only a 2mm difference in hight. A 29er 180 mm Zeb is 636mm or around 25 mm longer than the stock Boxxer/ 27.5 setup. Your best bet for a mullet is a 170mm 29er Zeb, that number is 631mm or a 21mm increase over stock.The thing to watch out for is the forward / rear balance and how much you will change the geo with a 170 fork, and what shock would you put in? If you just go for a shorter stroke, youāre not reducing the rear height, just reducing the rear wheel travel, whilst reducing the front by 10mm, creating a steeper head angle.
So youāve just created a bike that has a lower front endā¦
Iām sure there are ways around it, youād need to look at shock eye to eyes and maybe offset bushings..
Well, IĀ“d actually increase front - 170 29" fork will be taller than 180 27" stock fork (either 38 on Comp or Boxxer on Expert).The thing to watch out for is the forward / rear balance and how much you will change the geo with a 170 fork, and what shock would you put in? If you just go for a shorter stroke, youāre not reducing the rear height, just reducing the rear wheel travel, whilst reducing the front by 10mm, creating a steeper head angle.
So youāve just created a bike that has a lower front endā¦
Iām sure there are ways around it, youād need to look at shock eye to eyes and maybe offset bushings..
suspension curve thats not too progressive (many new bikes are getting too progressive IMO, more harsh ride in some situations) and the Kenevo with Air Shock works so well.
Yes I see what you mean - hopefully I can explain myself better:Iām sure it works great, but this seems like a funny statement, disliking how bikes are getting too progressiveā¦then fitting an air shock which will make the Kenevo more progressive than a linear coil
The only increase is the difference in the radius of the wheels+5mm for the fork with a 170 mm 29er fork.Well, IĀ“d actually increase front - 170 29" fork will be taller than 180 27" stock fork (either 38 on Comp or Boxxer on Expert).
And IĀ“ll also rise BB as mentioned all around this thread - around 19mm (difference in radius between 27" (584mm diameter) and 29" (622mm))
As one of the only guys I know with both, whats you opinion on the 29 Kenevo vs Pole Voima? Both seem like killer 29ers and the current sale on the Voima seems really good.Another weekend on my 29er Kenevo. I still think if this bike was released now, in 29 or mullet that it would be ranked in the top few enduro bikes out there.
Virtually silent descending, no clunk or rattle, suspension curve thats not too progressive (many new bikes are getting too progressive IMO, more harsh ride in some situations) and the Kenevo with Air Shock works so well. I still cant beat the times on my tracks with any other bike.
I really really like Pole bikes and was on the fence on getting one ā¦.. but the history of their customer service is really really bad. I picked up a Kenevo on sale but I still have not seen any 2024 Kenevoās on the Specialized website, so are they getting dropped? No idea.As one of the only guys I know with both, whats you opinion on the 29 Kenevo vs Pole Voima? Both seem like killer 29ers and the current sale on the Voima seems really good.
What's the problem with their customer service?I really really like Pole bikes and was on the fence on getting one ā¦.. but the history of their customer service is really really bad. I picked up a Kenevo on sale but I still have not seen any 2024 Kenevoās on the Specialized website, so are they getting dropped? No idea.
Look on mtbr, pinkbike and such, they have had some frame failures and rather than jumping on the problems, they have been less than helpful. This is according the disgruntled customers and you do not hear much from poleā¦.. 2 sides to every disagreement you know.What's the problem with their customer service?
I went 65mm on my X2, since the bike can take that no problem. Increases rear suspension travel to 187mm, roughly. I run a 27,5 rear wheel still though, and 29 front with a Fox 38 180mm. But I believe Rob also used 65mm stroke on his build that he made the video on, regarding the Kenevo full 29-er conversion (and many others have too, from what I have seen). So 65mm is fine regardless of running 27,5 or 29 rear wheel from what I have come to understand.So whatās the general consensus on rear shock length? 180 fox 38 for the front and an X2 in the rear, but 62.5 or 65mm?
187cm is 1.87m travel!I went 65mm on my X2, since the bike can take that no problem. Increases rear suspension travel to 187cm, roughly. I run a 27,5 rear wheel still though, and 29 front with a Fox 38 180mm. But I believe Rob also used 65mm stroke on his build that he made the video on, regarding the Kenevo full 29-er conversion (and many others have too, from what I have seen). So 65mm is fine regardless of running 27,5 or 29 rear wheel from what I have come to understand.
The only potential issue I can see with going 65mm vs the stock 62.5mm would be if you slam the seatpost fully down into the frame AND the seat is mounted far back on the post at the same time. Then it may potensially rub a 29-er wheel on full contraction (I haven't seen examples of that actually happening, but I saw a pic of this extreme that was very close). Usually though, unless you have been able to find a dropper with the exact perfect travel length for your riding position when pedaling (meaning the seat post can be fully inserted into the frame with no excess), you would have at least 1-2 cm (or more) of the seatpost sticking out making this a non-issue for sure. And even then, you would have to have the seat far back on the post to actually touch the wheel. View attachment 128189
That would be awesome, right??!187cm is 1.87m travel!
Why not add a bunch of spacers under the DM stem Ć la Greg Minnaar?Switching my Fox 40 29er (200mm) to a Fox 38mm (180mm) soon. Even with the Fox 40, I feel the bars are too low. I have to use a 50mm riser bar. Thinking a Fox 38 with some spacers underneath stem would be more comfortable.
View attachment 128263
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