Other 2023 Levo SL - Full 29er?

[cosas_genericas]

So I got home and took the entire drivetrain off the bike and started the setup from scratch and realized that specialized ships the bike with too short of a chain according to SRAMs own calculator. No matter what I do I can not get the knurled plate lines aligned. I also realized one reason why the bike has been shifting terribly from day one is one of the chainlinks is very stiff.

 

[cosas_genericas]

FWIWI, mine came in B and been shifting poorly even on the stand. I switched to A and now it's fine, before and after the longer chainstay.

Did you count the amount of links your chain had?

 

[ah1]

Did you count the amount of links your chain had?

Yes it had 116 just as recommended in the short chainstay position. It recommends 118 for the long chainstay, but when I switched to long I didn't add 2 links and it works just fine.

 

[cosas_genericas]

Yes it had 116 just as recommended in the short chainstay position. It recommends 118 for the long chainstay, but when I switched to long I didn't add 2 links and it works just fine.

Interesting, I also had 116 and it started shifting poorly and only got worse in long chainstay mode. Are your two lines aligned on the RD and plate?

 

[ah1]

So I got home and took the entire drivetrain off the bike and started the setup from scratch and realized that specialized ships the bike with too short of a chain according to SRAMs own calculator. No matter what I do I can not get the knurled plate lines aligned. I also realized one reason why the bike has been shifting terribly from day one is one of the chainlinks is very stiff.

I would suggest - get the proper chain length, and try the setup in B. If it doesn't work well, do what I did and switch to A (keep the 21T setup cog) and see if that works. You won't be ruining anything - you can always go back - and it's a 10 minute trial and error. If A works for you, just ride that and ignore what SRAM says and be happy about it .
ALSO if you're only missing two links on your recommended chain size, I'd do this experiment even w/o replacing a chain. Yes, 2 links do affect shifting but not enough for you not to notice the improvement. Then if you see the bike shifts well enough in A you can decide if you want a new chain or not (mine is XX costs an arm and a leg so I won't replace it unless I feel the gears misbehaving)

 

[ah1]

Interesting, I also had 116 and it started shifting poorly and only got worse in long chainstay mode. Are your two lines aligned on the RD and plate?

yes, aligned and working well. I've put it under stress and shifts great.

 

[cosas_genericas]

I would suggest - get the proper chain length, and try the setup in B. If it doesn't work well, do what I did and switch to A (keep the 21T setup cog) and see if that works. You won't be ruining anything - you can always go back - and it's a 10 minute trial and error. If A works for you, just ride that and ignore what SRAM says and be happy about it .
ALSO if you're only missing two links on your recommended chain size, I'd do this experiment even w/o replacing a chain. Yes, 2 links do affect shifting but not enough for you not to notice the improvement. Then if you see the bike shifts well enough in A you can decide if you want a new chain or not (mine is XX costs an arm and a leg so I won't replace it unless I feel the gears misbehaving)

Right - I am going to see if I can get shifting better in A even with the defective chain, I'll still try to warranty the chain either way. When I get a new chain I will run it 118 and see if I can get it feeling good in B or A. I wonder why I can't get it perfectly aligned if I have the same set up as you.

 

[Vin829]

I’m getting ready to put my S3 as a full 29er. I’m going to set the horse link in the 29ers position. But what should I do with the flip clip? Should it be in the high or low position? Currently it’s in the high with a 27.5 setup

 

[ah1]

I’m getting ready to put my S3 as a full 29er. I’m going to set the horse link in the 29ers position. But what should I do with the flip clip? Should it be in the high or low position? Currently it’s in the high with a 27.5 setup

You don't need to do anything special with it - if you change the horse link and put a 29er, the flip chip will reflect the "true" geo of the bike. So you can have it on high or low, depending on your preference. If you want to keep your current setup, keep it in high.
The previous discussion was aimed at riders that change the horse link to 29er BUT keep a 27.5 wheel - because the wheel is smaller than intended, that drops the BB substantially, more than desired. That's why it's recommended for that scenario to always use the "high BB" setting. In your case it doesn't apply.
BTW as a favor to us other owners, maybe post here in a few weeks how you're feeling the diff on that bike between a mullet and a full 29er? Thanks!

 

[Vin829]

You don't need to do anything special with it - if you change the horse link and put a 29er, the flip chip will reflect the "true" geo of the bike. So you can have it on high or low, depending on your preference. If you want to keep your current setup, keep it in high.
The previous discussion was aimed at riders that change the horse link to 29er BUT keep a 27.5 wheel - because the wheel is smaller than intended, that drops the BB substantially, more than desired. That's why it's recommended for that scenario to always use the "high BB" setting. In your case it doesn't apply.
BTW as a favor to us other owners, maybe post here in a few weeks how you're feeling the diff on that bike between a mullet and a full 29er? Thanks!

Will do

 

[cosas_genericas]

By the way I ride the Levo SL in low and 29er (long) in the back while mulleted and run 160mm cranks. The thing absolutely rails, I’m leaning the bike with the saddle clearing the inside leg completely. I can turn my hips and practically lay my outside knee on the top tube. No pedal strikes and we have extremely rocky terrain in Simi Valley. I’m running the suspension pretty firm and fast.

 

[ah1]

By the way I ride the Levo SL in low and 29er (long) in the back while mulleted and run 160mm cranks. The thing absolutely rails, I’m leaning the bike with the saddle clearing the inside leg completely. I can turn my hips and practically lay my outside knee on the top tube. No pedal strikes and we have extremely rocky terrain in Simi Valley. I’m running the suspension pretty firm and fast.

oh man I need to visit Simi Valley, been there a few years ago and it was a blast!

 

[cosas_genericas]

Forgot to mention, I was reflecting on all the bikes I’ve enjoyed over the decades of riding, and they all have one thing in common: a more even front center ratio. I threw this into excel. you can see the “good ones” in green below.

 

[guglez]

more even front center ratio

How to understand the numbers provided? What do they mean?

 

[tk1971]

I ride my SL2 as a full 29er with the flip chip in 29 setting, rear shock flip chip in high and the +1 headset cup. I also have 155mm cranks from the kids Levo SL hardtail.

I’m short and ride a S2. I ride lots of XC trails with long steep climbs, the occasional jump, lots of drops (2ft and under) and rock gardens. I found that in stock form, I get a lot of pedal strikes and struggle on really sharp/techical/exposed switchbacks, hence the changes above.

BTW, I took my bike to an authorized LBS to change the rear wheel setting on the TCU. Apparently it’s not possible on the Gen2 Turbo SL. I txted Specialized directly and this is what they said: “Hey, thank you so much for reaching out. I'm sorry, but they cannot make this change it comes that way. The mileage will be off. but technically, it should make the bike run a bit faster. “.

I then asked if previous gens and other models (Kenevo, Turbo Levo) can be configured for a rear 29 and I got this: “If the bike is the latest generation of the specific model, it cannot. but previous generations could.”

 

[guglez]

I took my bike to an authorized LBS to change the rear wheel setting on the TCU. Apparently it’s not possible on the Gen2 Turbo S

Did you just say that the software of the motor do not support 29" wheels and they always think that it's a 27.5" and there is nothing you could do about that ?

 

[tk1971]

Did you just say that the software of the motor do not support 29" wheels and they always think that it's a 27.5" and there is nothing you could do about that ?

Yes, that is exactly what I am saying.

The bike shop told me the only thing I can do is to contact Specialized and let them know how disappointed I am to not have this option, so that they can possibly put it in their next software update.

 

[ah1]

@guglez I take it you haven't acquainted yourself with the Specialized software yet... Not saying other vendors are better (they're not) but Specialized is notorious for missing key functionality and sometimes going backwards on software. Just google the many "satisfaction" threads on the sh*tty new app they rolled, which is buggy and missing functionality...
That being said, they still make the best ebike packages IMO that's why I and probably some other folks here put up with their nonsense. But yes what @tk1971 is saying doesn't surprise me one bit.

 

[rushy46]

I did some reasonable back to back testing between the stock mullet and full 29er setup this weekend.
My background - 185 cm/ 79 kg on a Levo Sl size S4. My normal bikes have been full 29er since 2015 so I am maybe a bit biased. I used the same tires (Eliminators) on both setups - but different hubs and cassettes, but that should not play a major role.
Climbing was easier on the full 29er. Especially on steep climbs I didn‘t have to move my weight actively forward for better traction, the longer (but not long) chainstays definetely helped there.
On mixed terrain with many ups and downs I preferred the mullet - it accelerates faster after braking, so no surprise here either.
The downhills were a tricky one - the mullet setup is unbelievable nimble and playful, not only for an E-bike but for any bike. So I was curious how the 29er would perform and was pleasantly surprised. As a full 29er it is still a playful bike - S4 for my height may play a role here. The biggest difference is the braking traction which is much better with the 29er rear wheel. Build berms were lots of fun with both setups but on real steep and technical terrain I had more confidence in the 29er rear wheel.
In my opinion taller riders should definetely try the Levo Sl as full 29er. You don‘t lose much in playfulness but gain more traction and outright speed. For smaller riders and sizes I think the mullet is the way to go. But at the end of the day it is like always very much a question of your personal preference.

 

[ah1]

I did some reasonable back to back testing between the stock mullet and full 29er setup this weekend.

Thanks for the extensive feedback! That's to be expected. I am a taller rider (188cm, 80kg) and my other bikes are full 29ers but I thought I'd give this mullet thing a try and as you mentioned I too was pleasantly surprised. Setting the bike in the 29er position (despite the mullet rear) takes care of the climbing issues - it climbs as good as same one 29er imo. On the steeps and tech I agree 29er wheel might work a bit better, but the mullet also does fine (mullet does have a bit of bonus of not hitting my butt when it's really steep, but I'd still prefer the rollover of a 29er).
BTW this being my first mullet I did notice the disadvantage of two different wheel sizes when I got a nice spare tire with my bike that would be great on the rear, but alas the spare is 29er size...