atcspaul
Well-known member
I would replace it, You know as well as I do it will fail completely eventually and it will be as far as possible from home or you car
what are togsAlso TOGS (as I just learned from ASV and HGmtb) because you're going to be turning your bike upside down to remove the battery
Ally can be dented but a crack is usually down to metal fatigue caused by continuous flexing and that would show through a paint finish and start at an edge. So I would say the crack is a manufacturing fault rather than fatigue or impact damage. Spec wheels are included in the lifetime warranty so get it changed.While I was converting my front wheel to tubeless last weekend I've discovered hair-thin crack (>10 mm or 1/2" in length) after I've bedded the tire - it leaked air and bubbled from underneath the wheel's decals.
Is it something I should be concerned about?
LBS guy told me to keep riding and keep an eye on the crack size.
View attachment 15509
That’s clearly a production error and I would request a new wheel immediately. Can you imagine what would happen if it suddenly disintegrate when you go downhill at 30 mph? We are ultimately talking your health here.While I was converting my front wheel to tubeless last weekend I've discovered hair-thin crack (>10 mm or 1/2" in length) after I've bedded the tire - it leaked air and bubbled from underneath the wheel's decals.
Is it something I should be concerned about?
LBS guy told me to keep riding and keep an eye on the crack size.
View attachment 15509
touchéWhat was your forum nickname again?
2,6...……...you need a rear mudguard. I don't think the paint finish is poor. The area you photographed gets bombarded by stones off the rear wheel at speed and no paint will stand up to that. The arched section in the picture I have covered with frame protector.
3,...…...I agree and I use Komoot which is a free phone app which is not only completely reliable but does a lot more than MC to map rides, navigate rides etc ( and if you buy/download a map of the region where you are riding the phone does not need any internet access)
2....your DIY lip will not prevent dust or water going down there. There is a Specialized mod kit for it which my bike does not have yet either so meanwhile I have used a small kitchen sink sponge stuffed into the gap ( and a mudguard).
6...I think your LBS can order the correct touch up paint.
BLevo is good and worth the £9 or so it costs but I have noticed if I use my phone for anything else it can drop the Bluetooth connection and lose all my ride data which is frustrating if I want to upload to Strava.....Think also of starting to use BLEvo. With this app (specially developed for LEvo/Keneno) you can do everything what MC can but you will get many others features as well. Controlling the support % based on you leg power or heart rate. Navigate trails, track your ride, etc.
The Blevo application is impressive but the weak link is the bluetooth connection. Car manufacturers seem to be able to make bluetooth work reliably but that is about the only good example I can think of. I certainly would not trust a bluetooth connection dynamically managing the bike power settings.
Concerning your saddle:
One might think, a soft saddle (gel) would be more comfortable - it‘s the contrary!
Your both sitbones should take all the pressure, and thats not possible with a soft saddle.
With a soft saddle, the seat bones sink into the gel and you’ll get pressure on the soft parts and nerves. But if you've been used to this for years, everything is ok.
Yep I agree...I don't understand the logic with saddles. On a road bike you are leaning forward over the bars so the saddle is more of prop than a seat. On a MTB you are more upright and on an E Bike you tend to sit more than on an analogue mtb...and you are riding on bumpy uneven surfaces, not on smooth tarmac. So having your bum bones resting with a fair proportion of your body weight on a hard saddle seems pretty stupid to me! The saddle and a focus on lightweight components at the expense of ruggedness seems something of a non sensible hangover from road cycling at least for AM/Enduro/DH type riding.I’m a valeter and detailer, it will stay clean...... ?
Regarding the saddle, from what I can make out the hard seat can be more problematic. It’s not like you sit on it hours on end, most the ride is standing up. Interesting tho.
Yep I agree...I don't understand the logic with saddles. On a road bike you are leaning forward over the bars so the saddle is more of prop than a seat. On a MTB you are more upright and on an E Bike you tend to sit more than on an analogue mtb...and you are riding on bumpy uneven surfaces, not on smooth tarmac. So having your bum bones resting with a fair proportion of your body weight on a hard saddle seems pretty stupid to me! The saddle and a focus on lightweight components at the expense of ruggedness seems something of a non sensible hangover from road cycling at least for AM/Enduro/DH type riding.
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