Search results

Update, went outside, turned the bike on, cleared the error by pressing ok, tried riding it and the assist kept kicking in and out about every 2 seconds and the error came back on the screen. Turned it off and on again, cleared the error again by pressing ok and now it seems ok, the assist is...

I've been using Walk mode a lot today for prolonged periods while the bike was in a workshop stand to try to diagnose a clicking sound and set my gears up perfectly. While listening for the clicking sound I needed my head down near the cranks and drivetrain so I kept the walk mode button held...

Definitely not the gain guide, good idea though, at least it's ruled out. There's a chance it could just be the freehub type mechanism that's in the motor, not entirely sure what they're calling it but with the bike off if I move the cranks anticlockwise I get the usual and totally normal...

Mines a 300

Good shout, I'll check that shortly.

I'm not seeing a rubber cover?

Interestingly if I put my hand on the underneath of the motor cover I can feel the click inside, so I might have to take the cover off but pretty sure I won't be able to see anything by doing that, so maybe it is something inside the motor after all.

Video here (bike is in walk mode) This has been like this since the bike was new (about 65 miles old), I assumed it was just newness bedding around the gears and cables as it feels (while riding) and sounds exactly like a rear derailleur that isn't quite set up perfectly and the chain is just...

Where is the usb port on the Kiox 300?

That's just poor design with inadequate testing. Internal routing is fine of done properly.

I'm not sure if enough people realise you shouldn't leave them at full charge for it to become a mainstream issue that needs solving.

Yeah that would bother me tbh. I've heard of people knocking up DIY solutions to discharging batteries with fans and bulbs and things, be nice if there was an official plug and play device that did it but even better if the energy could be used for something useful like light or heat.

This thread got me thinking, if you'd charged your battery up to 100% anticipating a ride which ended up get cancelled and for whatever reason you didn't have time or couldn't ride the bike to drain it down to a storage charge like the weather was really bad or you were going on holiday or...

As you can see from this thread I think most people are trying to figure out what's actually best for batteries and inevitably there will be all sorts of different opinions floating about. General rules for me are: Give it at least few hours to cool down after a ride before charging it again...

If I knew i If I knew I was riding early the next day I'd just leave it a couple of hours after day ones ride (to let the battery cool down fully) then charge it to 100% ready for the next morning. If day twos riding is later on in the day I'd personally leave it a couple of hours after day...

This, always use grease when torquing something up to a spec, any debris or glue or anything on the threads will make your torque wrench click prematurely before the thread is actually at the required spec.

Good info, thanks!

It's probably 4A for a reason, possibly the batteries don't like being fast charged and doing so regularly would reduce their lifespan significantly.

https://amzn.eu/d/dQgQdwg That's the one I have, it works perfectly and seems to be well made but any simple timer that has a countdown mode will work. It was £13 something or other when I bought it a while back.

The £14 timer I have is extremely easy to use and means you are still using the original charger (keeping whatever methodology it uses to charge the battery). And I have perfect control over exactly how much charge I want to add and it shuts off automatically. This is literally all I have to...