My motorcycles used stands which would pick up by the rear swingarm like this:
It makes it really easy to store the bike and do basic maintenance on it. It's also really easy to put the motorcycle on the stand since it levers it up. I'd love to have something similar for my eMTBs, however...
It turns out the Husky Mountain Cross has a pretty progressive leverage ratio, and even after upgrading to a custom valved DVO Topaz I just wasn't happy with it's performance, and I'm pretty sure it's because the progression of an air shock combined with the progression of the frame makes it...
The geometry is a step backward from the current Mountain Cross line. The current geometry is pretty darn good, though it could be a little longer with a little steeper seat tube. However, the new MC6 increases the seat tube angle from 76* to 77* while simultaneously decreasing the reach from...
Has anyone upgraded the rear brake rotor from 180mm to 203mm? Did it make a noticable difference with your rear brake?
I'm asking because I'll be upgrading the front from the stock 203mm rotor to a 220mm, and thought I might move the 203 to the back.
Can someone tell me if the EW-EN100 would let me change the settings for the three power profiles? If yes, do those setting persist between power cycles?
This is an interesting video. It's in German so I can't understand it, but someone broke their Extreme Cross frame in half. From the pictures it looks like a bad weld between the head casting and the top and down tubes.
This is an interesting video. It's in German so I can't understand it, but someone broke their Extreme Cross frame in half. From the pictures it looks like a bad weld between the head casting and the top and down tubes.
I think 170mm would start messing with the geometry quite a bit. Part of the reason it rides so well is the long reach and low bottom bracket, and increased the fork length by 20mm would negative affect both of those.
I installed a Diaz Runt and can highly recommend it. My fork now feels plush, but still supportive and without feeling divey. I'm now also running my compression damping wide open.
Physically, Shimano has kept the same interface, so in theory you could use an EP8. That said, in theory a VESC can run the hardware of the mid-drive motor, and it's only a matter of time until someone takes a broken Shimano motor, rips out the electronics, and converts it to VESC.
Get the Maxx Grip, but you can get the EXO+ casing to cut down on the weight and rolling resistance.
However, I very much want as much grip up front as possible.
Shorter suspension makes for a livelier and more engaging ride. It's the difference between a Baja truck and a WRC rally car.
I know what trails I like, and that's why I bought a bike with 150mm of travel.
Nope, I asked because the Lyrik I bought was 160mm of travel, but I've since changed the air spring it bring it down to the stock 150mm of travel.
Ideally it will be very plush at the beginning, provide a lot of mid-stroke support, and have a nice ramp up at the end of stroke. I generally want...
Stock length. I wasn't interested in trying to squeeze more travel out of it. If I had wanted more, I would have bought a bike with more. But I want that 150mm of travel to be high quality and feel like I want it to feel, which is what the upgrades are for.
My MC5 has a new DVO Topaz custom tune shock, a new Lyrik with DSD mid-valve spring, and the DSD Runt arrives today. I haven't ridden ANY of it yet, and I'm hoping the weather this weekend is good enough to ride.
I'm looking forward to finally having suspension which rides the way I want.
If it still doesn't power up when you finish, you may want to look at converting the control from the stock Yamaha to VESC. In theory, the VESC can run a torque sensing mid-drive motor just fine.
Someone needs to get a VESC working with a mid drive motor. They're open source and are already capable of controlling a mid drive, I just don't know of anyone who's done it yet.